05-04-2016, 02:04 AM | #1 |
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CCB Replacement mileage
This is not a discussion comparing CCBs to normal brakes. We have been through that time and time again.
I just would like to know how many of you have changed pads and rotors on CCBs and after how many street miles? Track miles? etc.... |
05-04-2016, 10:13 AM | #2 |
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I'm using my rotors & pads for 24K miles, and the signs on the front rotors started to disappear, I think I will replace them around September, and the car will be around 30K miles(150miles on track). The pads seems to be fine for now.
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05-04-2016, 12:15 PM | #4 |
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I've done 17k and 3 track days and the be had to change pads (they were at 50%) and front rotors are almost finished going by the wear I indicators, the rear discs and pads are fine
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05-04-2016, 02:55 PM | #5 |
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Honestly the rotors should last A LOT longer
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05-05-2016, 02:00 AM | #6 | |
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05-06-2016, 03:54 PM | #8 | ||
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Honestly, I think the wear indicators are causing unneeded confusion. The wear indicators aren't finished the same as the rest of the rotor surface, and by my guess I wouldn't rely on them as a final word. The proper way of determining service life on your CCB rotors is to remove them from the car and have them weighed. With this most recent CCB generation, the P-car users have found greatly improved rotor life by changing their pads at about 50% thickness. Granted, this still isn't a cheap proposition, but much cheaper than replacing rotors at 30k intervals. If I start to see my indicators oxidize the car will go to BMW for a rotor weight check - I'll truly be surprised if they are getting near the minimum service weight when the indicators begin to show wear, but I might be unhappily surprised. Glad the real cost of new CCB's isn't near 4k a corner. Full retrofit kits running about 12K, and then you have two sets of calipers and all hardware. I'm betting some M5 owners, or non CCB F8x owners, would love to run the 6 piston calipers with the M5 steel rotors - that should present the opportunity to recoup some costs if a full 4 corner rotor replacement is needed. +1 to both of you. Shit - I'm thinking and hoping the same. There's no way the CCB Rotors should need replacement after 30k street and 150 track miles - unless it was driven like a hooligan on street, and traction control cutting in very often street and track - the TCS in my opinion will greatly impact the wear life of the pads, but if they are changed at 50% it shouldn't translate into premature rotor wear.
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05-06-2016, 04:29 PM | #9 | |
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One cannot compare the MCCB to anything other than Gen 3 PCCB. All the other types are of different construction. |
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05-06-2016, 04:29 PM | #10 |
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My Idrive still shows 200K km(120-130k miles).. However, as well as indicators are disappearing, they started to make very bad sounds.. before I change them, I will weight them for sure and decide accordingly since these things don't come cheap. I see that the retrofits are 12k$ but when I tried to find the rotors one by one, they seem to be priced around 3.5k$ each. I also want to have the spare ones when it comes to selling the car since nobody will go over the trouble of measuring the weight, they would look to the indicators if they know what are they for at least these are my assumptions..
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05-06-2016, 04:36 PM | #11 |
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One last thing to add, my street driving is mostly bumper to bumper traffic or long highway travels, I can say that I don't abuse the brakes much..
My tracking days are at an ex F1 circuit though, which has 8 hard braking corners. Most of the time tcu is on or at mdm. |
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05-08-2016, 12:58 AM | #12 |
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Seems weird to me that they are going after only 3 track days. Can anyone else confirm. Anyone has actually weighed them when the indicators are gone?
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05-20-2016, 02:37 PM | #13 | ||
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Does anyone know what the brand new CCB front pad thickness is? Want to get mine measured at my to be scheduled service. If at or near half they'll get swapped. Keep old pads for street where they should last at least another year, and use new at track.
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05-21-2016, 06:04 PM | #14 | |
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1. Anyone know where I can find a shop manual for the F8X? I've never really looked before for any of my other BMW's but they don't seem to be so easy to find. ..or maybe just the CCB pad replacement procedures? I'ld like to at least do the first change on my own to see whats up but I can't find any definitive guidelines (procedures, torque info, etc). Especially since these are CCB's.... 2. Got the BMW part number for the pads (34112284970) - about $475 for the front set from ECS. Does anyone know if these come with a new wear sensor or is the old sensor somehow re-used?
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05-22-2016, 07:31 AM | #15 | |
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05-22-2016, 07:38 AM | #16 | |
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Wear on CCB rotors is due to the oxydation of the carbon fibres inside the matrix when exposed to very high temperatures (such as race track use). The wear indicators capture this oxydation wear. Once they are half exposed, it is indeed a good idea to have the rotors weighed; there is a good chance they will be under min. It is also important to note that BMW recommend replacing the rotors if either the wear indicators are half exposed OR when the rotors are under-weight.
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05-22-2016, 12:40 PM | #17 | |
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Do we have any owner here yet with a CCB equipped car that has had to replace its rotors for wear?
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05-22-2016, 05:27 PM | #18 | |
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2. Although the CCB rotors have wear indicators, they are not the primary method to determine if rotors need to be replaced. CCB rotors need to be weighed to determine if they are done. Each rotor has a minimal weight stamped on its inner ring. Once the weight of the rotor falls below that value they must be replaced. CCB rotors don't wear down like normal rotors. The carbon burns out from inside the structure. They don't really get any thinner - they just get lighter. Once a predetermined amount of the carbon has been burned out they must be replaced...
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05-22-2016, 05:31 PM | #19 | |
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However, it would be nice to have a shop manual which explains the proper order of the process, and the associated torque values for the associated fasteners... Anyone do a set of CCB pads yet?
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05-22-2016, 09:03 PM | #20 | ||
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The brake pad sensor works as an on/off switch. There is a little wire inside the sensor and when the sensor wears down, it cuts the wire opening the circuit. When that happens, you get the "red" warning saying that the pads need to be replaced. This type of warning can only be reset by replacing the sensors. Quote:
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05-23-2016, 09:27 AM | #21 | |
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05-23-2016, 09:50 AM | #22 |
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The iDrive doesn't say ANY miles. Once the Brake Pad Sensor is tripped, it simply says you need pads. There is one sensor for the front and another sensor for the rear pads. It is not predictive, it just gets tripped. After that iDrive will tell you that you need service at every startup and the "BRAKE" warning light will be displayed on the dash. iDrive will tell you which set of pads (front or rear) was tripped though on the vehicle status screen.
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