03-14-2022, 01:52 PM | #1 |
Millies ftw
52
Rep 74
Posts |
![]()
2016 M4 63k miles.
So the other night just cruising home and got a top up coolant pop up on the display and I looked back and sure enough some white smoke behind the car. Managed to cruise it home quickly, any coolant added drained right out. Pulled the air box and can see the water pump belt is loose and when adding coolant to the expansion tank it drains right out of what looks like a small tube behind the water pump pulley presumably from the weep hole. Just wanted to ask for any info and tips if anyone has tackled the waterpump. I don’t see any threads that I can find or YouTube videos etc. I ordered a new waterpump, both belts and a thermostat. I’m Not familiar with the crimp style clamps bmw uses on the water pump hoses so assuming I’ll be replacing those with traditional hose clamps? Also just curious about the fan .. does it drop down from below or pulled up from the top ? I’ll be taking pics and will update into a new post with pics and videos as it seems many have already messaged me on Fb asking me to do so as they can’t find much on the topic either. Any help /tips/ info is appreciated ! ![]() *** UPDATE !!! *** So it was the waterpump. The bearing and all its pieces and rollers fell out and a few were jammed and some pieces could be heard inside the pump. The weep hole was dripping straight down onto the belt which spits it up everywhere underhood. The install was quite easy. I took my time and chose to remove the radiator fan from below. Mostly just to familiarize myself with this motor and to make room to do the crank bolt capture plate while in there. I chose to replace the waterpump , thermostat and both belts all together. Here’s some pics : New pump and thermostat which is a one piece with the housing and has a sensor inside as well. I usually look to drill a tiny hole in the thermostat to aid in bleeding but there is a hole and in the design there is a sensor in that spot so I didnt want to add any holes and mess with the sensor and possibly trigger any codes because of the change. ![]() Dropped the oil cooler and it was cluttered up so for a chance to clean it up. ![]() Pic of the pump with the fan in place, can see the wobbly pulley. I believe there is sufficient space to change the pump out without removing the fan but I chose to remove it. ![]() Again I’m not sure I just go as I see and it looked like the fan would come out best below which it did. Just had to remove a plastic deflector shield, the ewp bracket and the pump. I believe the charge cooler pump could have been left connected and moved to the side but I chose to remove it and drained out the coolant from the passenger side front radiator located in the lower bumper. ![]() Ewp which I believe is for the charge cooler side of the cooling system. ![]() With the rad fan out.. the view from top. Plenty of space to work. I also chose to remove the forward turbo I let pipe which was very easy from underneath. ![]() Pump pulley removed. Had to pick up snap ring pliers and file them down to get the snap ring out. Didn’t have to remove any tension with the belt as the bearing was so destroyed and there was so much play it had no tension already. Just 4 screws and the snap ring and it comes off. ![]() Water pump is easily removed. Screws are different lengths so i punched them into some cardboard to remember which went where. Just remove clips from hoses and remove as well as a screw for the hard lines which I think go to cool the turbos. I left the thermostat attached and removed the hose from the radiator and pulled it out together. ![]() View of the space from below. At this point I stopped for 5 mins and just installed the crank bolt capture which took 5-10 minutes. ![]() Capture plate installed. Left the belt on so the tension would help keep everything in place and it didn’t move a mm. ![]() Old and new pump ![]() Water pump pulley has an elongated hole so it can slide to increase or reduce tension. Quite interesting design and was easy to work with. I dug up some instructions that said to turn the main crank bolt.. but with the cbc there’s no bolt to turn so I just put the belt on and turned the giant nut right on the end of the pulley and it pulled the tension on the belt and slides the pulley over to its correct position. When it reaches this position with belt tension the 4 holes for the pulley bolts line up and I torqued those in. Very simple. ![]() Just finishing the bleeding process.. fires up nice and smooth and quiet and can’t wait to start driving it again ! Such a lovely car to work on ![]() Last edited by 5ABIVT; 03-25-2022 at 06:28 PM.. |
Appreciate
7
|
03-14-2022, 04:50 PM | #2 |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 1171
Rep 778
Posts |
Wish I could be of more help here, but interested in this thread and you progress. I keep getting an intermittent thermostat code for it getting stuck open at times, so I'll probably be trying to do that soon (maybe after I fix the other car lol)
__________________
Mosselman-powered M4 - 698/714 | 2.9 Whipple 2004 Cobra - 690/645 | Instagram
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-14-2022, 08:38 PM | #3 | |
Millies ftw
52
Rep 74
Posts |
Quote:
![]() I’ve tackled the valve cover and minor stuff already like plugs charge pipes and charge cooler as well as the catless downpipes myself but I have no ventured a little further into the front and accessory drive so that’s why I just wanted to ask me see if anyone had any experience there. Always just trying to familiarize myself as much as possible while waiting for the parts to come In. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-28-2022, 08:41 AM | #5 |
First Lieutenant
![]() ![]() 258
Rep 360
Posts
Drives: 2017 BMW M3 ZCP
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: New Jersey
iTrader: (1)
Garage List 2001 Honda S2000 [0.00]
2006 Mini Cooper JC ... [0.00] 2020 Audi SQ5 [0.00] 2017 BMW M3 Competi ... [0.00] |
Thanks for the How-to and pics! Will make it easier for me when I need to get in there and do some maintenance!
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-03-2023, 08:54 AM | #6 |
Private
![]() 70
Rep 77
Posts |
Great write up! I'm about to do the pump and thermostat as well. You are right, there is practically nothing online as far as a how-to for this!
__________________
2024 ///G80 M3 Competition X-Drive / Tanzanite Blue / Silverstone-Black Extended Merino Leather
Mods // JB4 / BMS CAI / Alpha One Amp and Speaker Upgrade / JL Power Wedge 12" Subwoofer |
Appreciate
0
|
08-14-2023, 12:39 PM | #7 |
Private First Class
![]() 64
Rep 104
Posts |
Just for reference, I swapped my water pump and thermostat, and it is doable without completely removing the fan and the electric water pump. What I did is pushing downwards the fan to make some room to work
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-01-2023, 06:40 PM | #8 |
Registered
5
Rep 4
Posts |
This is great, and yes not a damn thing out there for this DIY. Was going to just do my thermostat, but figured since im in there might as well do the waterpump.
Fans currently running nearly 100% duty cycle and car holds at 108C. Need to hook up to ISTA to see what else is going on, but thinking it is almost certainly the thermostat, and or the waterpump. Note: Serpentine tensioner is also dancing quite a bit, more than I would expect anyway. Thinking the bearing may be on its way out on the ol' waterpump. Also, thanks for the great idea of doing the VTT capture while your in there, I am going to do the same ![]() |
Appreciate
0
|
12-27-2024, 06:06 PM | #9 |
New Member
![]() 12
Rep 14
Posts |
Experienced this on Christmas Day! Was on my way back from PA to NY. Was going about 80. All of a sudden I hear a squeal and I see white smoke coming out the back. Then the hood started smoking. Pulled over immediately. At the same time CBS tells me engine temp is excessively high. Popped the hood… Coolant everywhere. Towed it back 153 miles the next day. Had shop diagnose and sure enough Pump was blown. Installing new pump in the next couple of days with new belt. Currently have approximately 95k miles.
__________________
Drivetrain Malfunkshun
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Tags |
bmwm4, cooling, f82, thermostat, waterpump |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|