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      12-02-2017, 08:40 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackey View Post
So helper is about 1/4" compressed. How far from the top of the shock is your adjuster?
Helper plus coupler is roughly a 1/4" compressed. The adjuster is approximately 1/3rd of the way from the top. I don't think you'll have an issue setting the ride height you want - there's enough threaded length left to drop the front of the car so the top of the tires contact the fender liner!
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      12-02-2017, 04:32 PM   #46
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Glad to see more people moving to the MCS’s

I am running 700/375. I have played a lot with spring lengths...I am running 6” fronts and 8” in the back with no helpers.

Since my original install, I have added dinan sways and FLMS end links and toe/tie rods/links. Love how the dinan sways significantly reduced the front end roll. It’s pretty much point and go!!!!
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      12-06-2017, 07:38 AM   #47
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What are you set at for ride-height measurements?

Car looks great, btw.
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      12-07-2017, 07:25 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninekrpm View Post
Glad to see more people moving to the MCS’s

I am running 700/375. I have played a lot with spring lengths...I am running 6” fronts and 8” in the back with no helpers.

Since my original install, I have added dinan sways and FLMS end links and toe/tie rods/links. Love how the dinan sways significantly reduced the front end roll. It’s pretty much point and go!!!!
Are you running MCS 2WR dampers? Does your 6" F spring unseat at full droop?

Did you install Dinan F and R sway bars or F sway bar only?
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      12-07-2017, 08:43 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
Are you running MCS 2WR dampers? Does your 6" F spring unseat at full droop?

Did you install Dinan F and R sway bars or F sway bar only?

At full drop maybe an inch...yes, 2WR

Both sways...rear was a pain.
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      12-08-2017, 05:09 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
Why have adjustable dampers if you don't adjust for changing track conditions (green vs. rubbered track), weather (wet vs. dry), temperature (cold vs. hot), etc.? Track conditions are always changing and suspension changes are needed to get the most out of a track on a given day.
Sorry for the n00b question, but do you use an AIM data logger? do you check your changes using speed entering/mid/exiting corners and the laps times? or is your data logger setup with additional sensors to capture more data about what the suspension is doing?
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      12-12-2017, 12:24 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
Sorry for the n00b question, but do you use an AIM data logger? do you check your changes using speed entering/mid/exiting corners and the laps times? or is your data logger setup with additional sensors to capture more data about what the suspension is doing?
I have an older data acquisition system - need to upgrade. Changes are mostly based on driver feel and car response but data certainly can be used to check if you're heading in the right, or wrong, direction. However, you may have to make compromises in one corner to deal with problems in another corner.
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      11-21-2019, 04:41 PM   #52
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Any concerns on rear strut turrets with high rate springs?
I am considering similar set up, but concerned about strut mount strength.
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      11-22-2019, 04:24 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by DavidStr View Post
Any concerns on rear strut turrets with high rate springs?
I am considering similar set up, but concerned about strut mount strength.
If you’re referring to the rear upper damper mount then the F8x doesn’t require any additional structural reinforcement when running a rear coilover setup. The 900-1200 lbf/in rates discussed in this thread are for divorced spring-damper (OEM) setups vs. 400-600 lbf/in rates for rear coilover setups. You’re trying to match wheel rates when switching between the stock setup and a coilover setup due to different motion ratios.
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      11-24-2019, 06:13 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
If you’re referring to the rear upper damper mount then the F8x doesn’t require any additional structural reinforcement when running a rear coilover setup. The 900-1200 lbf/in rates discussed in this thread are for divorced spring-damper (OEM) setups vs. 400-600 lbf/in rates for rear coilover setups. You’re trying to match wheel rates when switching between the stock setup and a coilover setup due to different motion ratios.
Exactly

The F8X can run a true coilover rear happily. I converted my MCS 2WNR on the F80 from divorced setup to true coilover during the 2019 season
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      11-24-2019, 07:09 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Exactly

The F8X can run a true coilover rear happily. I converted my MCS 2WNR on the F80 from divorced setup to true coilover during the 2019 season
I’m planning on doing the coilover conversion on my F82 MCS 2WR setup this spring.
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      12-16-2019, 03:44 AM   #56
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Noticed a few running true coilover rear. I assume no reinforcements required to the strut top? I'm potentially looking to run mcs coilovers in the rear of my M2C so any feedback welcome
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      12-16-2019, 04:29 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
Noticed a few running true coilover rear. I assume no reinforcements required to the strut top? I'm potentially looking to run mcs coilovers in the rear of my M2C so any feedback welcome
No reinforcement of the upper rear damper mount is required on the F8x to run a rear coilover setup. People have been running rear coilover setups on this chassis since 2015 and I’m not aware of a single failure.
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      12-22-2019, 12:23 AM   #58
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Cross post from here LINK.

Long story short, spoke with my local MCS dealer and they have raised potential clearance issue between the rear CO and sway bar. Now I don't know if this is specific to the M2C or not but further inspection i can see the sway bar will run pretty close where it wraps around indicated by the yellow arrow. I reckon there is enough clearance for the end link. Coincidentally the first post in this thread shows has a image of the rear setup and looks pretty close.

Some feedback would be awesome if there is an issue and confirmation if owners are running 60mm or 2.25 rear spring. I'm assuming the 2.25 ID will have a slightly less OD etc.
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Last edited by MR RIZK; 12-22-2019 at 12:37 AM..
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      12-23-2019, 09:41 AM   #59
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Here is the solve for this issue...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
Cross post from here LINK.

Long story short, spoke with my local MCS dealer and they have raised potential clearance issue between the rear CO and sway bar. Now I don't know if this is specific to the M2C or not but further inspection i can see the sway bar will run pretty close where it wraps around indicated by the yellow arrow. I reckon there is enough clearance for the end link. Coincidentally the first post in this thread shows has a image of the rear setup and looks pretty close.

Some feedback would be awesome if there is an issue and confirmation if owners are running 60mm or 2.25 rear spring. I'm assuming the 2.25 ID will have a slightly less OD etc.

Had to deal with this, see my post below. I am in fact running 2.25ID springs and still experienced the issue. Here is the solve that I worked with Kent / Lex at MCS to come up with. Talk to Kent and reference my name (Faisal)

...and when I replaced the rear swaybar, dealt with it again; slightly (1-2mm) adjusted the rear sub-frame and solved the issue. Need to make sure that the sub-frame settles in exactly in the same spot when tightening post drop for swaybar replacement. Hope this helps...




https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...8#post20349298
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      12-24-2019, 12:11 AM   #60
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They sent me offset bushings and mine clears just fine
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      12-24-2019, 05:00 AM   #61
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ninekrpm , blackey thanks for the feedback and links. I will run this past my dealer.

ninekrpm why did you end up moving to a new set of sways. Did u find with the increased spring rates you required softer sways?

EDIT: Noticed you went with the stiffer Dinan sways above.
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      12-24-2019, 09:31 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
ninekrpm , blackey thanks for the feedback and links. I will run this past my dealer.

ninekrpm why did you end up moving to a new set of sways. Did u find with the increased spring rates you required softer sways?

EDIT: Noticed you went with the stiffer Dinan sways above.
I want to do some sway bars as well before I go with a more aggressive CO than what I have now (bilstein b16). I keep hearing differing opinions on it, most saying it didn’t make a big difference and that the rear was a bitch to install.
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      12-24-2019, 10:08 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by jpy1980 View Post
I want to do some sway bars as well before I go with a more aggressive CO than what I have now (bilstein b16). I keep hearing differing opinions on it, most saying it didn’t make a big difference and that the rear was a bitch to install.

The rear likely does not make much of a difference, cant say that I felt much...however, my goal was to take out the preload pressure...

On a lowered car, the stock sway can add some significant prelaod as it does not move (pivot) much with the bushings, I was seeing the cross weights shift up to 75-100# even with adjustable end-links. By adding the aftermarket sway (Dinan, in my case), I have better adjust-ability to setup the car.

If the stock sway pivoted better, I would simply add adjustable end-links and be done with it.

The install does some patience, took me about 4 hours with the car on a high set of jack stands. I dropped the sub-frame about 6" and then worked to remove the existing one and maneuvered my way to install the new one.
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      01-06-2021, 06:47 PM   #64
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How are your cars holding up with running the true rear coilovers? Not sure if i want to rear coilovers or separates.
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      01-06-2021, 08:26 PM   #65
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30K miles and no issues...running a 400# rate in the rear.
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      02-20-2021, 09:10 AM   #66
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Quote:
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30K miles and no issues...running a 400# rate in the rear.
Howdy, tried to PM your but inbox is full
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