Track Preparation Checklist

[RElias21]

Hi all,

I've always wanted to track my car and I've always found a reason not to do it. I promised myself last summer that I would finally get in the game the next season.

Well, I'd like to start the process of getting the car "track ready" for this season. I just got my brake fluid flushed, and I've ppf'ed the nose.

I have a set of 513s with winter tires. I was thinking of slapping track specific tires on those during the summer for HDPE events. I'm also planning on getting track specific brake pads. Any recommendations on tires/pads?
I think that may be sufficient for someone just getting their feet wet?

Also, I would love to get people's perspective on a track preparation check list, i.e., things a totally newbie wouldn't necessarily think of (whether in prep or to bring along) that would help make the track day go more smoothly. I've even thought of maybe getting a seat cover to not wear out my seats too much during track days? All input is welcome.

For context, I would imagine myself going a max of 3-4 times this upcoming season, as I start to get my feet wet, so I don't want to get too carried away just yet. I think additional mods to the car other than what is listed about may come in the future, but I'm open to all input. FWIW, I already have ESS chargepipes and MPHAS.

Many thanks for all input in advance!

[SYT_Shadow]

For your first track weekend I would use regular summer or even all season tires on your stock wheels.

For pads, I really like the PFC11 pad. It will take anything you can throw at it and beds itself in during your first laps. For your first time you should be fine with stock pads as long as they are newish, maybe take a second set

As you go more and more you will want camber plates, but that's the only significant mod.

No reason to mod for more power

[Suds]

As above ^
I like taking a car to the track as designed + SRF and PFC08 brake pads for the first weekend. Then I tweak from there.

Let’s add a tire pressure gauge.

So far this year I’ve done 2 days in the M4 and 2 days in the Vette.

[NYG]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

For your first track weekend I would use regular summer or even all season tires on your stock wheels.

For pads, I really like the PFC11 pad. It will take anything you can throw at it and beds itself in during your first laps. For your first time you should be fine with stock pads as long as they are newish, maybe take a second set

As you go more and more you will want camber plates, but that's the only significant mod.

No reason to mod for more power

This.

Start off with Super Sports. They have a decent life span, grip really well for a street tire (keep that in mind because when you step into track tires - that's going to be another level), have good feedback, not that expensive and drive well in the rain.

PFC11 is a sick pad, also suggest it unless you want a do it all pad while you're learning. A DS2500 is one of my favorite pads in terms of versatility. As you get better, you'll need more than the DS2500 though.

You don't need more power on the track, especially not yet. You've got a sick chassis. Don't start spending a ton of money right now. The F8X comes with enough power to make it difficult to put it down all the time. You'll discover your needs the more track days you do and the harder you push your car.

IMO, all you need is Castrol SRF, pads, decent tires and an app or something like an AIM Solo to record your track data so you can maximize your track days and continue getting better and better.

After you get some good seat time in, you'll probably need to consider a BBK and a suspension. I know the MP HAS is advertised as a performance suspension but it's just a lowering spring and will start limiting what you can do real fast (ask me how I know).

Make sure you come out to the Glen at least once this year so you can have your first religious experience.

Feel free to swing by or park with me and my buddies if you're ever at the same event. I no longer have an M4 but I'll always be a low-key BMW fanboi.

[RElias21]

Thanks guys. What is SRF?

[NYG]

Originally Posted by RElias21

Thanks guys. What is SRF?

Brake fluid with the best wet boiling point.

Your brakes are going to get REALLY hot and so will your fluid. Most brake fluids need to be dumped after they reach their dry boiling point. SRF doesn't.

[Suds]

SRF, Silicone Racing Fluid, Castrol is good.
About $80 - $100 a Litre.
I have my brake fluid flushed every 6 months on my cars that get tracked.

For info: I got 21 track days, close to 2k track miles on my PFC08 track pads, including 6 days at COTA. Getting them swapped this week for another weekend at COTA.

[RElias21]

I literally just got my brake fluid flushed at the dealer last week. You guys think I need to swap it for SRF before my first time?

[clutchdj]

Originally Posted by RElias21

I literally just got my brake fluid flushed at the dealer last week. You guys think I need to swap it for SRF before my first time?

Depends on the track.
Long ass tracks like WGI love brakes.
Try to stay out of abs.
OE fluid is dot 4, not terrible.. but It’s really a combination of pads and fluids that you need.
One is risky without the other.
as long as you are not running very sticky tire you should be fine for one event.

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by RElias21

I literally just got my brake fluid flushed at the dealer last week. You guys think I need to swap it for SRF before my first time?

Fresh fluid will be fine for first time

[NYG]

Originally Posted by RElias21

I literally just got my brake fluid flushed at the dealer last week. You guys think I need to swap it for SRF before my first time?

If you're doing a one day event, no.

If you're doing 2 or more days at the Glen, probably not yet but if you start driving hard early you may need it.

Biggest tip I can give you is after you get enough sessions in to remember the track layout, turn off traction control (not mdm, fully off) and start making mistakes early especially on tracks like Thunderbolt. TC/MDM masks a lot of mistakes and you want to make sure you correct those early because it'll be harder to relearn later. The F8X is easy to oversteer and easy to recover on street tires/most R compounds. Don't be scared of it, or scared of spinning out. You'll be in beginner level for a little bit and will have plenty of opportunity to fuck up without worrying about another car hitting you.

[RElias21]

Thanks everyone. What do you suggest I bring with me to the track, or should I just show up with the car?

Does everyone get like a bay for their car in case they need to work on it?

[NYG]

Originally Posted by RElias21

Thanks everyone. What do you suggest I bring with me to the track, or should I just show up with the car?

Does everyone get like a bay for their car in case they need to work on it?

For your first track day on a streetable setup, you shouldn't need much else.

Bring things to drink all day, even if it's a little chilly out. You're going to burn more energy than you think - stay hydrated.

Before you go to the track, check your oil level on the computer after you warm the engine up and top it off if necessary. The turbos will burn a little bit of it so if you're already close to being low, get some more in there.

Portable tire pump compressor and tire pressure gauge with a quick air bleed valve (Longacre makes a nice one - you can get it on bimmerworld along with 99% of the stuff listed here - they're awesome) is extremely useful.

I wouldn't worry too much about tire temperatures on your first trip to the track but definitely need to pay attention to your tire pressures (this is proportional to temperature but you don't need to focus on it just yet, it'll be important later). On a hot day they can climb 12 degrees after a session. You need to check pressures before and after each session. You'll also need to run different pressures than what is suggested. On super sports, depending on ambient temperature - I like to start 28 PSI, usually get back with around 36-38. You don't want to start too low because you can damage the tire and if the tire pressure gets too high you'll feel like you're on ice skates.

My preference for optimal grip with -2.8 camber up front was 33 PSI front 31 PSI rear HOT.

You park your car on the paddock and that's where you do all your work. Bring and umbrella and towels if the weather doesn't look great.

Bring your own helmet, gloves and if you have a manual a comfy pair of driving shoes.

[ABenLauda]

Originally Posted by NYG

For your first track day on a streetable setup, you shouldn't need much else.

Bring things to drink all day, even if it's a little chilly out. You're going to burn more energy than you think - stay hydrated.

Before you go to the track, check your oil level on the computer after you warm the engine up and top it off if necessary. The turbos will burn a little bit of it so if you're already close to being low, get some more in there.

Portable tire pump compressor and tire pressure gauge with a quick air bleed valve (Longacre makes a nice one - you can get it on bimmerworld along with 99% of the stuff listed here - they're awesome) is extremely useful.

I wouldn't worry too much about tire temperatures on your first trip to the track but definitely need to pay attention to your tire pressures (this is proportional to temperature but you don't need to focus on it just yet, it'll be important later). On a hot day they can climb 12 degrees after a session. You need to check pressures before and after each session. You'll also need to run different pressures than what is suggested. On super sports, depending on ambient temperature - I like to start 28 PSI, usually get back with around 36-38. You don't want to start too low because you can damage the tire and if the tire pressure gets too high you'll feel like you're on ice skates.

My preference for optimal grip with -2.8 camber up front was 33 PSI front 31 PSI rear HOT.

You park your car on the paddock and that's where you do all your work. Bring and umbrella and towels if the weather doesn't look great.

Bring your own helmet, gloves and if you have a manual a comfy pair of driving shoes.

Lots of good info here. I just want to add:

Don't back into your parking spot right after a session. Just drive right into it and park.
Do not engage the manual handbrake right after a session.
Take a few laps to get temps into the tires before you start pushing.
Fix tow hook onto your car.

Have fun!

[RElias21]

Originally Posted by ABenChod

Lots of good info here. I just want to add:

Don't back into your parking spot right after a session. Just drive right into it and park.
Do not engage the manual handbrake right after a session.
Take a few laps to get temps into the tires before you start pushing.
Fix tow hook onto your car.

Have fun!

Thank you.

Why fix tow hook?

[ABenLauda]

Originally Posted by RElias21

Why fix tow hook?

In case you have an off/breakdown/get beached in gravel, they'll need to pull your car out using a tow truck.

[NYG]

Originally Posted by ABenChod

In case you have an off/breakdown/get beached in gravel, they'll need to pull your car out using a tow truck.

Yup, they're authorized to get your car off the track any way possible if it's not there. The odds of you needing it is probably slim to none but it's better to have it. As an example, I ran out of fuel on Sebring and had to be towed back, lmao. Or you can get get a tow strap if you want the aesthetic.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

If your car is equipped with the collision avoidance system then you should disable it before each session.

You are going to have a blast.

[Suds]

I usually forget until I’m on someone’s bumper, then I’m reaching around trying to turn that shit off.

Originally Posted by DerekLimeRock

If your car is equipped with the collision avoidance system then you should disable it before each session.

You are going to have a blast.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by NYG

Biggest tip I can give you is after you get enough sessions in to remember the track layout, turn off traction control (not mdm, fully off) and start making mistakes early especially on tracks like Thunderbolt. TC/MDM masks a lot of mistakes and you want to make sure you correct those early because it'll be harder to relearn later. The F8X is easy to oversteer and easy to recover on street tires/most R compounds. Don't be scared of it, or scared of spinning out. You'll be in beginner level for a little bit and will have plenty of opportunity to fuck up without worrying about another car hitting you.

+1 on this for sure... this is the strategy I took and very glad I did. As long as you're not a complete idiot and respect the power the car has, and make a conscious effort to incrementally push things ever so slowly, you will be fine.

Also, once you get the basic feel of a track down and things become a bit more automatic, I suggest getting into the habit of anticipating the correction you'll need to make if you overcook a corner. With an oversteer, the sooner you recognize the back end coming around and the sooner you begin the correction, the better.

The "smooth is fast" thing is a cliche because it's true. More importantly, in the beginning with TC off, even if you're not flying, being smooth (meaning, nothing abrupt with the feet or hands) is how you keep the car from biting you. So if you can start that habit from the beginning, you're setting yourself up for success.

[F80Speed77]

Personally if you've never been on track before I'd at least recommend driving with MDM on until you get to the point where it is noticeably getting in the way of you doing things. It could help save the car if you accidentally get it out of sorts and aren't ready for that yet.

But yeah lots of good things in here from the other folks who spend a ton of time at the racetrack.

[F80Speed77]

Also those tow straps are junk. I had one on the front of my car at Mid Ohio and it ripped instantly when the wrecker tried pulling mine up on the flatbed could have been pretty dangerous if it ripped when the car was halfway up. I don't think they can survive more than being pulled out of a tirewall and I 100% recommend the steel hoop style over these.