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      03-23-2021, 12:13 PM   #23
hC1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Awesome thanks for the info. Sounds like it wasn't to bad. So you can leave the axles and everything connected which makes life easier.
I was going to get the press tool, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../024979sch01a/
I haven't had great luck in the past cutting bushings out.

What repair manual are you referencing? Is there an online copy of it?
Its pretty straight forward and once you pop out the rubber bushing from its sleeve, its very easy to cut the sleeve and use a flathead to dent it inwards to remove from the cylinder. Not sure how much space the bushing tool needs since i didnt use one.

ECS also has a DIY where you remove the entire subframe from the car with everything attached except the parking brakes, driveshaft, etc... Someone said it was easier to do it that way.

The BMW repair procedures. You can find it in ISTA.
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      03-26-2021, 11:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Awesome thanks for the info. Sounds like it wasn't to bad. So you can leave the axles and everything connected which makes life easier.
I was going to get the press tool, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../024979sch01a/
I haven't had great luck in the past cutting bushings out.

What repair manual are you referencing? Is there an online copy of it?
The BMW procedure is needlessly intensive. The ECS DIY is much more straightforward. I just used a hammer/chisel and an electric saw to get the rear bushings out. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
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      03-28-2021, 08:43 PM   #25
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I would recommend the ECS install method. However, I suggest not removing the driveshaft from the differential, and instead unbolting it from the back of the transmission. These bolts are easily accessible, don't need any thread locking agent, and don't require any special tools to properly torque. You can easily slide the front differential bracket off the front of the driveshaft. You also do not need to remove the parking brake cables as long as you are careful not to lower the subframe too far.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...stallation.pdf
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      03-28-2021, 11:45 PM   #26
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Here are some pics i took when i did the process.

https://ibb.co/album/Hhp0cZ
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      03-29-2021, 08:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Here are some pics i took when i did the process.

https://ibb.co/album/Hhp0cZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Here are some pics i took when i did the process.

https://ibb.co/album/Hhp0cZ

Awesome photos. Really helps see the process. So from what I gather you lowered the subframe. Then braced the diff and removed the front mounting plate sliding it forward down the driveshaft. Then pushed out all the bushings and put it back on.
Where'd you get that scissor jack?
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      03-29-2021, 09:12 PM   #28
hC1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Awesome photos. Really helps see the process. So from what I gather you lowered the subframe. Then braced the diff and removed the front mounting plate sliding it forward down the driveshaft. Then pushed out all the bushings and put it back on.
Where'd you get that scissor jack?
Yes. Dropped the subframe and lowered the driverside even more.

Its a transmission jack from harbor freight. Has been very useful throughout the years.
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      03-30-2021, 09:07 AM   #29
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is the main reason you need to lower the subframe because you can't get to the bolt on the far right due to the gas tank?
Wondering if using e torx wrenches would give you that space?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWREN...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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      03-30-2021, 09:21 AM   #30
hC1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
is the main reason you need to lower the subframe because you can't get to the bolt on the far right due to the gas tank?
Wondering if using e torx wrenches would give you that space?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWREN...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
The bolt is M12X1,5X90-10.9. Thats over 3.5 inches in length. It really wasnt a big deal to lower the driverside. Just unbolt the brake caliper and loosen the slack for the a couple cables and the ground strap. Look at the pic names in the photo album.
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      08-17-2021, 03:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Here are some pics i took when i did the process.

https://ibb.co/album/Hhp0cZ
The approach of disconnecting the driveshaft at the guibo makes a lot of sense. Did you find with that approach you were still able to rotate the diff for access to the rear bushing? Or does having the whole driveshaft connected limit that?
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      08-18-2021, 02:11 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDGreen View Post
The approach of disconnecting the driveshaft at the guibo makes a lot of sense. Did you find with that approach you were still able to rotate the diff for access to the rear bushing? Or does having the whole driveshaft connected limit that?
I went with powerflex bushings so i didnt have to test that theory.
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      08-22-2021, 04:56 PM   #33
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just started this for my car...will actually will be installing the KMP kit with the solid bushings...

for removing the driveshaft...what's the procedure for disconnecting it from the diff?

what is easier? diff or trans?

Will post pics shortly...and do a summary as well, thank you!
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      08-22-2021, 07:53 PM   #34
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Pics…got everything remived

Ready for next step…
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      08-23-2021, 12:19 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninekrpm View Post
Ready for next step…


You should follow the ECS removal instructions if you are replacing the rear bracket for the dual rear bushings.

Whats the cylinder welded to the rear subframe?
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      08-23-2021, 12:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post


You should follow the ECS removal instructions if you are replacing the rear bracket for the dual rear bushings.

Whats the cylinder welded to the rear subframe?

Thanks…appreciate it!


Where did you purchase it the tool?


The cylinder is a jack point center I had welded on.
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      09-12-2021, 06:11 PM   #37
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Anyone know tq specs for the guibo?
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      12-04-2021, 07:33 PM   #38
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Just finished up swapping out mine. Figured I'd share some notes to help others.
-The chassis brace that you need to remove uses a T60. Only place I know of on the car with this bolt. It's also right by the lifting point so annoying, so undo them before jacking up the car.
- The transmission brace you need to remove. It uses a T55.
- remove the driveshaft from the damper, leave the damper connected to the trans.
Driveshaft toque spec is 55nm + 90°.
- subframe service bolt(x4): https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...w/07147426660/
- subframe service bolt washer(x4): https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/31336776760/
- replacement subframe bolts(x4): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-9-33302284642
- replacement driveshaft bolts(x3): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...s3-26117527475
- Replacement driveshaft nut(x3): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-26127536563
- eTorx ratchet wrenches: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWREN...204616566-_-N&
Helpful in not having from drop the subframe down as far to get around the fuel tank.
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Last edited by marauder1; 06-22-2022 at 10:16 AM..
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      01-28-2022, 12:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Just finished up swapping out mine. Figured I'd share some notes to help others.
-The chassis brace that you need to remove uses a T60. Only place I know of on the car with this bolt. It's also right by the lifting point so annoying.
- if you have a manual there's an additional transmission brace you need to remove. It uses a T55.
- remove the driveshaft from the damper, leave the damper connected to the trans.
Driveshaft toque spec is 55nm + 90°.
- subframe service bolt(x4): https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...w/07147426660/
- subframe service bolt washer(x4): https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/31336776760/
- replacement subframe bolts(x4): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-9-33302284642
- replacement driveshaft bolts(x3): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...s3-26117527475
- Replacement driveshaft nut(x3): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-26127536563
- eTorx ratchet wrenches: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWREN...204616566-_-N&
Helpful in not having from drop the subframe down as far to get around the fuel tank.

I’m interpreting this as you used the method of removing the driveshaft from the trans but not from the dif to remove it more easily?

Is the “bushing” you’re referring to the guibo? And Is the driveshaft torque spec you have listed for the 3 bushing/guido bolts?

Very helpful post, but I could use some clarity on those points.
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      01-28-2022, 12:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneAngryBunny View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Just finished up swapping out mine. Figured I'd share some notes to help others.
-The chassis brace that you need to remove uses a T60. Only place I know of on the car with this bolt. It's also right by the lifting point so annoying.
- if you have a manual there's an additional transmission brace you need to remove. It uses a T55.
- remove the driveshaft from the damper, leave the damper connected to the trans.
Driveshaft toque spec is 55nm + 90°.
- subframe service bolt(x4): https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...w/07147426660/
- subframe service bolt washer(x4): https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/31336776760/
- replacement subframe bolts(x4): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-9-33302284642
- replacement driveshaft bolts(x3): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...s3-26117527475
- Replacement driveshaft nut(x3): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-26127536563
- eTorx ratchet wrenches: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWREN...16566-_-N&
Helpful in not having from drop the subframe down as far to get around the fuel tank.

I’m interpreting this as you used the method of removing the driveshaft from the trans but not from the dif to remove it more easily?

Is the “bushing” you’re referring to the guibo? And Is the driveshaft torque spec you have listed for the 3 bushing/guido bolts?

Very helpful post, but I could use some clarity on those points.
Yea the bushing is to the guibo. I didn't pull the driveshaft from the diff. That requires a specialized tool that costs $480. A lot easier to just pull the other end and slide the front differential holder down the driveshaft.
Torque specs are for the guibo to driveshaft
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      01-29-2022, 08:34 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Yea the bushing is to the guibo. I didn't pull the driveshaft from the diff. That requires a specialized tool that costs $480. A lot easier to just pull the other end and slide the front differential holder down the driveshaft.
Torque specs are for the guibo to driveshaft
Perfect, thank you 🙏🏼
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      01-29-2022, 09:21 PM   #42
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For those who tackled this job DIY or even brought it to a shop, did you "renew" every single bolt, screw and nut that you removed? I was wondering if all the hardware is actually one time use or you can reuse. Any advice on this ?
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      01-29-2022, 10:51 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverLift_F82 View Post
For those who tackled this job DIY or even brought it to a shop, did you "renew" every single bolt, screw and nut that you removed? I was wondering if all the hardware is actually one time use or you can reuse. Any advice on this ?
I performed the job without removing the DS from the diff(i would probably replace that nut if i did). I did not replace anything. I retorqued everything back to spec. Im not advising or recommending to reuse due to liability, im only stating what i did and i accept the risks of not replacing...

No issues since i completed the job.
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      01-30-2022, 02:18 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
I performed the job without removing the DS from the diff(i would probably replace that nut if i did). I did not replace anything. I retorqued everything back to spec. Im not advising or recommending to reuse due to liability, im only stating what i did and i accept the risks of not replacing...

No issues since i completed the job.
Thanks for your reply and also the previous tips/photos etc
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