Front suspension clicking/creaking noise when turning the wheel

[9M71]

Originally Posted by David.m

Great thread. I installed Ohlins R&T (M2) 4wks ago and started getting the creaking/clicking noise a week ago whenever nearing full lock at carpark speeds.

Just one thing not mentioned, when I re-checked the Repair Manual for torque I had missed this spec, "Screw head must point in direction of travel".

I had accidentally reversed this on the drivers side (where it sounded like most/all the noise was coming from), can't say it was the sole cause of my noise as after I re-installed it correctly I also torqued both sides to 70Nm (spec 56Nm). I hadn't replaced the nut/bolt either.

Noise completely gone, if it returns will replace nut/bolt.

interesting find. I need to check which way mine are facing now

[weytie]

Same here, had the clicking noise after installing my swift springs. Checked everything ( spring seatening in schock hat, retorqued the link bar under load) and still be there.

When changing my winter wheels i tightened the strut collar bolt quite a bit more then specified and never had any clicking noise again.
Curious as my shock was never released from the collar to change te springs, but tightening it did the trick.

[NayNay75]

Suspension nub here, where exactly is the struct collar bolt located?

Thank you!

[Rokoz]

Originally Posted by NayNay75

Suspension nub here, where exactly is the struct collar bolt located?

Thank you!

See page 1, there is a diagram

[dxbtune]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Update - Took about a month for my broken swaybar end link to get delivered so i've been driving around with it disconnected on the side where I swapped the top hat. The creaking was gone. Yesterday I re-installed the endlink without issues but I also removed the strut collar bolt on the knuckle since I ordered a new one figure it was cheap and incase I overtightened the original one to the point of snapping as well...

motherf!#$ the clicking noise came back louder than before on the side with the new top hat! Two variables is that 1) installed new end link and 2) the removal and installation of the collar bolt.

I found other posts with people with the same noise as me and someone mentioned it was due to the strut collar bolt not being tight enough which sorta makes sense in my case because the first time I installed it used the impact gun and went to town where as the second time with the new bolt I tried to do the right thing and torqued it to spec which is only 50-60ft lbs which isn't much. There was a lot more clicking sound at the lower torque setting.

Today I loosened the strut collar bolt and immediately tightened it but this time more than the recommended torque setting (full send) and the noise so far is gone again. I also scrubbed the rotor hub area to remove some of the rust and applied a thin coating of anti-seize there.

Lets see if the noise comes back but I'm beginning to think the top hat wasn't the issue all along. Its the act of replacing the top hat that could have fixed it for some people because you have to remove the strut collar bolt and reinstall it during the procedure that could have inadvertently fixed the noise.

Its number 5 on this pic. It clamps down on the strut and if its not tight enough it can cause the clicking/creaking sound while turning the steering wheel (under load)

Same thing happened to me, I managed to replicate and pinpoint the sound and then tightened the bolt. Sound went away for 6-7 months and has now returned. Will be removing the wheel and inspecting again today.

Edit: Jacked up the front left, removed the wheel, loosened the bolt, slid the strut collar down cleaned it up, used anti seize and reassembled with some ugga dugga's on the bolt. Noise is gone.

[omgf80]

+1

Setup: KW HAS Kit
Issue: Creaking as shown in the video on page 1

Pulled the strut out of the collar and cleaned it off with some WD40, added some anti-seize, reassembled with some extra torque on the bolt. Noise is gone.

Thank you so much for finding this fix.

[Alan l.]

Just to update this thread once and for all is that my last fix worked and the car is still creak free.

Dropping the strut collar down to clean the area plus putting some copper anti seize paste there did the trick for good. Its been 8 months and still dead silent.

For those that have the low speed clunk thats a separate issue which is fixed by tightening the steering rack bolt just a smidge. There's a whole thread about it on here.

Alan

[jzhu625]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Just to update this thread once and for all is that my last fix worked and the car is still creak free.

Dropping the strut collar down to clean the area plus putting some copper anti seize paste there did the trick for good. Its been 8 months and still dead silent.

For those that have the low speed clunk thats a separate issue which is fixed by tightening the steering rack bolt just a smidge. There's a whole thread about it on here.

Alan

Alan, followed your instructions and fixed my clunk sound. thank yoU!

[yeg_m_club]

this method really solved the problem!!! my clilking sound now is minimized or barely can heard. thanks

[RacletteMan]

I wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially Alan. My M2 has been making this noise ever since the install of my Ohlins RT. The car went back 4 times to the dealer who is now telling me that the noise comes from my aftermarket wheels (sigh)

I am printing this out along with the diagram and going to an independent shop next week. That pinch bolt is gonna catch hell.

It is so frustrating when you have an issue and finally find a thread that mentions your exact problem only to never find an update.

Thanks again and have a great week-end !

[Evren]

Originally Posted by yeg_m_club

this method really solved the problem!!! my clilking sound now is minimized or barely can heard. thanks

Which method you mean?
I have the same sound which is comes from the front right tire.
Thank you.

[Johto]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Just to update this thread once and for all is that my last fix worked and the car is still creak free.

Dropping the strut collar down to clean the area plus putting some copper anti seize paste there did the trick for good. Its been 8 months and still dead silent.

For those that have the low speed clunk thats a separate issue which is fixed by tightening the steering rack bolt just a smidge. There's a whole thread about it on here.

Alan

Is this low speed clunk that you are referring to this kind of that i have in my video that i took took from my car?

Clunk video:

My clunk is coming from front drivers side and can only be heard when driving low speeds and on a rough surface or speed bumps. It can't be heard if road surface is normal or the car is cold. BMW dealer say that sound is coming from steering rack and their fix is to replace the whole steering rack (which is about 4000$ part).

If my case is similar than yours can you point out more precise that where or what this steering rack bolt is that has to be tightened?

If my case is something different do you have any ideas what could it be?

Thanks! I Would want to avoid replacing the whole steering rack...

[RacletteMan]

Checking back in after having the car in the garage. I asked them specifically to tighten the strut collar bolt and to use anti-seize, to no avail. The creak is still there

I have now spent more than 18 months chasing this issue. I am out of options at this point. I've had enough. Car is getting back to stock and traded in as soon as possible.

[Alan l.]

The key is you need to loosen the strut collar bolt, drop the strut down and clean the area. Lots of little pebbles gets stuck in that area that i think contributes to the noise. After cleaning the area thats when you add some antiseize paste at the clamp point then use a new bolt and really tighten it down while having the jack under the suspension so its under load.

[RacletteMan]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

The key is you need to loosen the strut collar bolt, drop the strut down and clean the area. Lots of little pebbles gets stuck in that area that i think contributes to the noise. After cleaning the area thats when you add some antiseize paste at the clamp point then use a new bolt and really tighten it down while having the jack under the suspension so its under load.

Hey Alan,

I really appreciate your input. Do you reckon that not having the suspension under load when tightening the strut collar bolt could be the key ?

Did you do this on every one of your attempts ?

Thanks a lot for your help !

[Alan l.]

Originally Posted by RacletteMan

Hey Alan,

I really appreciate your input. Do you reckon that not having the suspension under load when tightening the strut collar bolt could be the key ?

Did you do this on every one of your attempts ?

Thanks a lot for your help !

Since the only way for me to get the strut back into position i had to use a secondary jack under the brake rotor with a towel and forced it up so technically its under load. I know the dealers have a certain procedure with a special tool that does accomplishes this.

Key is cleaning the area and using antiseize paste that ultimately fixed my issue for good.

[RacletteMan]

Went to pick up the car today and the creaking is completely gone after applying Alan's method.

I am extremely grateful to Alan for helping me getting this fixed after so many months with this issue, and to the others who have shared their experiences. Alan : BIG thanks !!! You rock !!!

[Alan l.]

^^ Nice!

Can't take credit for the fix. I think it was a few of us try different things and we finally came up with a combo that works. My M3 was noise free for 8 months after applying the fix.

Alan

[RacletteMan]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

^^ Nice!

Can't take credit for the fix. I think it was a few of us try different things and we finally came up with a combo that works. My M3 was noise free for 8 months after applying the fix.

Alan

I think you deserve the credit for putting the thread up, including a diagram. The garage I brought the car to told me that they would probably never have found the fix without knowing where to look. And if the noise does come back, I know where to go.
I was so fed up with the car and that noise that I was ready to make a financially questionable decision that involved a turbo blue RS5.

[EricP3]

I was having very similar issues described in this thread, clicking/creaking suspension when turning the wheel at low speed but not when going over bumps. One thing I hadn't seen described was that I also heard it pretty clearly when driving with my windows open from the drivers side. Any time I turned to the right at low to mid speed I would here very a frequent and constant clicking. Can't hear it when the windows are up only when windows down. I took my front wheels off and tightened the one bolt (#5 in the diagram) as described in this thread and my noise is completely gone. Bolt is easily accessible with the wheel off it is right behind the rotor. Gave each one a couple turns until they were tight just by hand. Hopefully others find this useful!

[jinsii]

Look my post

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1394691&highlight=Clicking+noise

[Kriskcck]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Update - Took about a month for my broken swaybar end link to get delivered so i've been driving around with it disconnected on the side where I swapped the top hat. The creaking was gone. Yesterday I re-installed the endlink without issues but I also removed the strut collar bolt on the knuckle since I ordered a new one figure it was cheap and incase I overtightened the original one to the point of snapping as well...

motherf!#$ the clicking noise came back louder than before on the side with the new top hat! Two variables is that 1) installed new end link and 2) the removal and installation of the collar bolt.

I found other posts with people with the same noise as me and someone mentioned it was due to the strut collar bolt not being tight enough which sorta makes sense in my case because the first time I installed it used the impact gun and went to town where as the second time with the new bolt I tried to do the right thing and torqued it to spec which is only 50-60ft lbs which isn't much. There was a lot more clicking sound at the lower torque setting.

Today I loosened the strut collar bolt and immediately tightened it but this time more than the recommended torque setting (full send) and the noise so far is gone again. I also scrubbed the rotor hub area to remove some of the rust and applied a thin coating of anti-seize there.

Lets see if the noise comes back but I'm beginning to think the top hat wasn't the issue all along. Its the act of replacing the top hat that could have fixed it for some people because you have to remove the strut collar bolt and reinstall it during the procedure that could have inadvertently fixed the noise.

Its number 5 on this pic. It clamps down on the strut and if its not tight enough it can cause the clicking/creaking sound while turning the steering wheel (under load)

Can you please upload the diagram again? the link is dead many thanks !