Probably not-so-smart solution to crank hub?

[Imnotjacob22]

Would it be possible to just glue it to the shaft with red lock tight? And if not just please explain why to me. I mean you're not "obligated" to but it would be appreciated.

[Cboy]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

Would it be possible to just glue it to the shaft with red lock tight? And if not just please explain why to me. I mean you're not "obligated" to but it would be appreciated.

Why not use the tried and true crank bolt capture plate?

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

Would it be possible to just glue it to the shaft with red lock tight? And if not just please explain why to me. I mean you're not "obligated" to but it would be appreciated.

Because that assumes the bolt backing out is the problem, which is questionable. The interface is a diamond-sintered friction disc which slips, but there’s not any good evidence that the issue is only that the bolt loosens.

Just how much torque do you think loctite is good for anyway?

[Imnotjacob22]

Originally Posted by chris719

Because that assumes the bolt backing out is the problem, which is questionable. The interface is a diamond-sintered friction disc which slips, but there’s not any good evidence that the issue is only that the bolt loosens.

Just how much torque do you think loctite is good for anyway?

Originally Posted by chris719

Because that assumes the bolt backing out is the problem, which is questionable. The interface is a diamond-sintered friction disc which slips, but there's not any good evidence that the issue is only that the bolt loosens.

Just how much torque do you think loctite is good for anyway?

Red 271 Loctite can handle 3,000 psi, but I'm not sure how that translates to torque

[Imnotjacob22]

Originally Posted by Cboy

Why not use the tried and true crank bolt capture plate?

Originally Posted by chris719

Because that assumes the bolt backing out is the problem, which is questionable. The interface is a diamond-sintered friction disc which slips, but there's not any good evidence that the issue is only that the bolt loosens.

Just how much torque do you think loctite is good for anyway?

Originally Posted by Cboy

Why not use the tried and true crank bolt capture plate?

I honestly didn't know there was a 100 dollar solution, everything was lookin like at least 800 just for the part.

[ThatBoostedKid]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

Would it be possible to just glue it to the shaft with red lock tight? And if not just please explain why to me. I mean you're not "obligated" to but it would be appreciated.

Hey bro sorry to thread hijack I can't respond to your message about the seats as your PMs are closed

[behindthen0thing]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

Would it be possible to just glue it to the shaft with red lock tight? And if not just please explain why to me. I mean you're not "obligated" to but it would be appreciated.

You need to install a capture plate at a minimum, in my opinion.

The loctite might provide a bit more security than the stock friction disk but most likely not.
You are up against shearing forces along with vibration.
You would be attempting to bond two pieces of metal together with an adhesive, so a couple areas of concern.
You cannot be sure that it is bonded well to the parts.
The surfaces are smooth, and oily. Loctite might disintegrate over time from vibration and exposure to chemicals and heat.

If you actually were at a point to where you could loctite a hub to the crank shaft, you're already 1200$ into labor minimum at that point you should just pony up the extra money and buy a high quality aftermarket hub and have it installed.

Also yes, the bolt can and will loosen, There is no locking mechanism to it other than the torque and friction in the threads.

[Imnotjacob22]

Originally Posted by behindthen0thing

You need to install a capture plate at a minimum, in my opinion.

The loctite might provide a bit more security than the stock friction disk but most likely not.
You are up against shearing forces along with vibration.
You would be attempting to bond two pieces of metal together with an adhesive, so a couple areas of concern.
You cannot be sure that it is bonded well to the parts.
The surfaces are smooth, and oily. Loctite might disintegrate over time from vibration and exposure to chemicals and heat.

If you actually were at a point to where you could loctite a hub to the crank shaft, you're already 1200$ into labor minimum at that point you should just pony up the extra money and buy a high quality aftermarket hub and have it installed.

Also yes, the bolt can and will loosen, There is no locking mechanism to it other than the torque and friction in the threads.

Labors not *too* much of an issue thankfully. I have a shop and experience mechanic on hand, so I was just wondering if there was any way to no pay almost 1k to hot rod worry free. I probably won't go the cheap route but damn man lol

[Alexander13.]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

Labors not *too* much of an issue thankfully. I have a shop and experience mechanic on hand, so I was just wondering if there was any way to no pay almost 1k to hot rod worry free. I probably won't go the cheap route but damn man lol

Why don'v you just V the hub, crank gear, crank and lay a nice weld in there if you want a cheap option and labour isn't an issue?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by Alexander13.

Why don'v you just V the hub, crank gear, crank and lay a nice weld in there if you want a cheap option and labour isn't an issue?

How about drill 4 holes all the way through the hub-washer sandwich…
leave the drill bits in the holes as pins…
add a big washer and loctite it all together. That should work for at least 350HP right?

I like the v-weld idea too…

Anyone want to see if Krazy-Glue works?

Sorry, I couldn't resist the sarcastic comments above. A CBC is a good solution for up to 600 HP range, others may say higher but I'm cautious.

[Imnotjacob22]

Originally Posted by Alexander13.

Why don'v you just V the hub, crank gear, crank and lay a nice weld in there if you want a cheap option and labour isn't an issue?

It sounds interesting, but I'm just gettin started out in the mechanic world, what does v'ing the crank mean?

[Imnotjacob22]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

How about drill 4 holes all the way through the hub-washer sandwich…
leave the drill bits in the holes as pins…
add a big washer and loctite it all together. That should work for at least 350HP right?

I like the v-weld idea too…

Anyone want to see if Krazy-Glue works?

Sorry, I couldn't resist the sarcastic comments above. A CBC is a good solution for up to 600 HP range, others may say higher but I'm cautious.

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

How about drill 4 holes all the way through the hub-washer sandwich…
leave the drill bits in the holes as pins…
add a big washer and loctite it all together. That should work for at least 350HP right?

I like the v-weld idea too…

Anyone want to see if Krazy-Glue works?

Sorry, I couldn't resist the sarcastic comments above. A CBC is a good solution for up to 600 HP range, others may say higher but I'm cautious.

That's all fair man, appreciate the insight

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

It sounds interesting, but I'm just gettin started out in the mechanic world, what does v'ing the crank mean?

It's how you weld big plate steel, by having each edge beveled, butt those 2 ends to make the V, and lay the weld bead inside the V. Think battleships. We were joking. Just buy the Insane Performance 1-piece hub, put a CBC on top, and your S55 is almost bulletproof.

[RugbyBro]

Running stock power levels? Don’t do anything until your warranty is up, then and only then, run your tune and throw on a CBC if you’re spooked about SCH. $100 and a couple hours on a Saturday and then call it a day. FWIW I threw blue loctite on my pulley bolts when installing the CBC. The CBC just acts to stop the crank bolt from losing torque, and therefore avoiding the loss of lateral pressure that is crucial for the friction washer to remain effective. I believe this is ultimately what you are trying to achieve with the red loctite idea.

Running higher than OE power (FYI GTS is OE power)? Well that’s your prerogative - go full fix if it makes you feel better, I know I would for sure if I’m tuning for big power. Just please, please, please don’t come back and start talking about SCH like it’s an “Achilles heel” (looking at you, iNfLuEnCeRs) and everyone’s engine is going to explode without their shop’s CH “fix”

[MisterF80M3]

Originally Posted by Alexander13.

Why don'v you just V the hub, crank gear, crank and lay a nice weld in there if you want a cheap option and labour isn't an issue?

Interesting idea. I never thought about welding the CH. I think that would work.

[Imnotjacob22]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Running stock power levels? Don't do anything until your warranty is up, then and only then, run your tune and throw on a CBC if you're spooked about SCH. $100 and a couple hours on a Saturday and then call it a day. FWIW I threw blue loctite on my pulley bolts when installing the CBC. The CBC just acts to stop the crank bolt from losing torque, and therefore avoiding the loss of lateral pressure that is crucial for the friction washer to remain effective. I believe this is ultimately what you are trying to achieve with the red loctite idea.

Running higher than OE power (FYI GTS is OE power)? Well that's your prerogative - go full fix if it makes you feel better, I know I would for sure if I'm tuning for big power. Just please, please, please don't come back and start talking about SCH like it's an "Achilles heel" (looking at you, iNfLuEnCeRs) and everyone's engine is going to explode without their shop's CH "fix"

No it's an amazing car by all means and when you rip and roar in a car, you're going to find the weakest link

[RugbyBro]

Originally Posted by Imnotjacob22

No it's an amazing car by all means and when you rip and roar in a car, you're going to find the weakest link

Oh yah, you can rip and roar on these things all day, every day and they are solid. The GT4 race cars use the exact same CH and they don’t have any systematic CH issues. Apex & Lichtfield also only run a CBC on their track built cars that are regulars on the N’Ring. The problem only really arises with consistency when the car is tuned beyond the limits of the CH design, at which point, it’s prudent to pay for a CH fix. I run stock so I’ll never get to that point, but it’s seemingly around the 600 +- 50hp mark based on feedback from forum members here