Lowering car on coilovers requires adjustable sway bar end links

[w00tw00t]

Ok guys, technical question.. When you lower car on coilovers, I noticed that the length of the front toe link (from swaybar to the shock mount) increases, thus at static loaded state the swaybar is now under load.. So is it correct to assume that when installing coilovers an adjustable set of sway bar end links is a *must* ?

note - like an idiot i was saying "toe links" above, I edited it to say "sway bar end links" which is what I meant! Sorry!

[Woodengun]

Better but not required.

[w00tw00t]

not sure, when I was installing my coilovers, I inserted my coilover into the front carrier, started jacking it up, then when the shock sway link mount reached the length of the sway link, I inserted the sway link, kept jacking up,.. it was another 1" before my coilover reached the top position.. basically it resulted in tons of pressure on that poor little stock sway link.. That's when I removed the shock and am now about to order adjustable sway links..

[MrSmartyPants]

If the ride height is equal side to side it doesn't matter. There will be no preload on the swaybar. It will turn the same left and right.

If the ride height is not equal between the sides (If the car were corner balanced for instance) then there will be a preload on the bar. The result will be a car that turns differently left to right. Once direction at turn in it will unload the bar to neutral, then start loading it. The other direction it is already loaded slightly and effects of the sway bar will be instant.

This is where adjustable sway bar links come into play. You can set the bar to a neutral position.

[w00tw00t]

Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants

If the ride height is equal side to side it doesn't matter. There will be no preload on the swaybar. It will turn the same left and right.

If the ride height is not equal between the sides (If the car were corner balanced for instance) then there will be a preload on the bar. The result will be a car that turns differently left to right. Once direction at turn in it will unload the bar to neutral, then start loading it. The other direction it is already loaded slightly and effects of the sway bar will be instant.

This is where adjustable sway bar links come into play. You can set the bar to a neutral position.

Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants

If the ride height is equal side to side it doesn't matter. There will be no preload on the swaybar. It will turn the same left and right.

If the ride height is not equal between the sides (If the car were corner balanced for instance) then there will be a preload on the bar. The result will be a car that turns differently left to right. Once direction at turn in it will unload the bar to neutral, then start loading it. The other direction it is already loaded slightly and effects of the sway bar will be instant.

This is where adjustable sway bar links come into play. You can set the bar to a neutral position.

Ok that makes sense! Thank you !!

[F3IGHTY]

Yup, the sway just twists a bit.

[ccondo]

Are they required if you are just using camber plates?

[F3IGHTY]

Originally Posted by ccondo

Are they required if you are just using camber plates?

No, sway bar end links aren't "required" for anything really. They're just nice to have when trying to remove any slight bind on the sway bar after corner balancing.

OP's been saying toe links, which are different, and are already adjustable from the factory (but have nothing to do with the sway bar).

[w00tw00t]

Originally Posted by F3IGHTY

No, sway bar end links aren't "required" for anything really. They're just nice to have when trying to remove any slight bind on the sway bar after corner balancing.

OP's been saying toe links, which are different, and are already adjustable from the factory (but have nothing to do with the sway bar).

Dammit sorry I meant swaybar end links. So stupid of me.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by F3IGHTY

No, sway bar end links aren't "required" for anything really. They're just nice to have when trying to remove any slight bind on the sway bar after corner balancing.

OP's been saying toe links, which are different, and are already adjustable from the factory (but have nothing to do with the sway bar).

JRZ, Ohlins, MCS, etc. dampers tend to have shorter strut bodies and lower sway bar mounting tab locations compared to the stock strut body. Shorter end links are needed to maintain the stock sway bar geometry (i.e., torsional stiffness) on shorter strut bodies. Without shorter end links, the sway bar ends will sit too low (angled down) and, therefore, have its effective moment arm (torsional stiffness) reduced.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

JRZ, Ohlins, MCS, etc. dampers tend to have shorter strut bodies and lower sway bar mounting tab locations compared to the stock strut body. Shorter end links are needed to maintain the stock sway bar geometry (i.e., torsional stiffness) on shorter strut bodies. Without shorter end links, the sway bar ends will sit too low (angled down) and, therefore, have its effective moment arm (torsional stiffness) reduced.

Right.

The links needed could be longer or shorter depending on your particular setup.

[F82K2S0]

I have a extra set of adjustable swaybar end links by Dinan for sale great price if your interested, still in plastic wrap new.

[F3IGHTY]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

JRZ, Ohlins, MCS, etc. dampers tend to have shorter strut bodies and lower sway bar mounting tab locations compared to the stock strut body. Shorter end links are needed to maintain the stock sway bar geometry (i.e., torsional stiffness) on shorter strut bodies. Without shorter end links, the sway bar ends will sit too low (angled down) and, therefore, have its effective moment arm (torsional stiffness) reduced.

You're right, however the static displacement is negligible in comparison with the overall range of motion.

Also, the JRZs sway bar mounting bracket point is offset upwards to maintain similar geometry: