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      09-08-2021, 01:25 PM   #23
bimmerboyE92
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Originally Posted by 5ABIVT View Post
Thanks for the write up ! Just noticed something interesting. I ordered a new hub/bearing assembly and new bolts. I picked up a t60plus and it fits the new bolts perfect. When I went to remove the original bolts the t60plus wouldn’t fit. Have a feeling it is a t55plus maybe ? Picking up a t60 torx as I type this as all my sets somehow ended right at t55 :facepalm:

Also, did you have to disconnect the forward control arm or suspension link ? It appears to be right in the way of one of the bolts.

Tia !
I did not. I just turned the wheel to help with access.
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      09-09-2021, 01:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92 View Post
I did not. I just turned the wheel to help with access.
Appreciate it ! Realized when I picked up a t60 and was test fitting so I turned the wheel . I’ll just put the whole front end up so o can turn it.

In case it helps anyone .. there are two roundabouts in my neighborhood that I always take the racing line over . A month ago I went a bit further and went around the 3rd roundabout (that I literally never have gone around) and there was a half curb in the middle that I bumped pretty good. I turned the wheel so it wouldn’t hit an edge and hit straight on. I keep my tires at 40 psi up front. After the slight impact I started to feel a very slight vibration like a bent wheel. But, my wheel was fine and showed no dents etc. at about 80-100 mph when smoothly leaning the car side to side when the front left unloaded the steering wheel got a slight jiggle. Over the past week or so there has been pronounced tire roar like noise and humming when slowing down. Today when I was about to take the bearing out i did spin it and could feel the roughness in the bearing so pretty sure it’s shot. Figured I’d share my symptoms and incident
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      02-01-2022, 10:21 PM   #25
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Thanks for the DIY.

Prick sold me the car with bad wheel bearing claiming it was tire noise so I’ll be doing this as soon as the parts arrive

For anyone doing this in the future,

BMW updated the hubs+bolts which now use Torx TP 60.

You will need to use the regular T60 to remove bolts if you have the oem hub from like mid 2016 and earlier.
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      06-26-2022, 03:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure View Post
For those that had bearings fail did yours spew grease on the inside surface of your wheel barrel? I was cleaning my track set today and noticed one wheel has a crusty residue. Wondering if it could be bearing grease that baked on. No idea what else it could be. I have none of the typical symptoms.
I had the same thing happen on both of my front street, non track wheels.

Noticed it when swapping from winters this spring so something must have happened end of last year. Didnt notice it on my old EC7s though.

At first I thought it was my caliper somehow scraping on the barrel but after inspection I found that not to be the case.

You could be onto something with it being wheel bearings. I forgot to tell you but during the LRP event we both ran in May, I noticed every F8x car including M2s have a whistling like noise coming from them when making the left hander, including yours. It's something I've never heard from any of these cars in the past at this turn, however, but I did find it strange that about four cars were doing it.
Other gen M cars were not doing it which made me think back to what Shadow has said multiple times about the bearings going on these cars.

I didn't do any viewing/listening at that turn this past week unfortunately.

Last edited by MaX PL; 06-26-2022 at 04:01 PM..
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      09-06-2022, 07:43 PM   #27
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Sign that your bearings have given up.
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      09-09-2022, 06:39 PM   #28
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T60 vs TP60
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      09-11-2022, 03:22 PM   #29
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Thanks a ton for this awesome DIY with torque values and all. Just completed the job on my driveway
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      09-11-2022, 04:23 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandaljimenez View Post
Thanks a ton for this awesome DIY with torque values and all. Just completed the job on my driveway
No problem. I actually just replaced both of mine today and looked back on this thread to remember how it's done. 😆
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      09-11-2022, 04:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyLedouche View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandaljimenez View Post
Thanks a ton for this awesome DIY with torque values and all. Just completed the job on my driveway
No problem. I actually just replaced both of mine today and looked back on this thread to remember how it's done. 😆
Lmao that's fucking awesome
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      11-10-2022, 09:57 PM   #32
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I recently replaced my front rotors and promptly stripped all the rotor retaining bolts, so I had to drill them out…. Two weeks later I mounted my winter wheels/tires and I have a hub noise coming from the front driver's side. I think the next logical step would be hub replacements. Thank you in advance for the great DIY GuyLedouche! I'll be utilizing it very soon
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      12-02-2022, 01:55 AM   #33
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I used this DIY to change both front wheel bearings on my car. It was so clear and saved me so much time. Really helpful post was showing how you may need a TP 60 bit instead of a T60 bit. I had all the tools I needed to do the job. Thanks again.
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      02-01-2023, 02:51 PM   #34
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How often do these go out? One or both are at 63k and clicking while cornering and see videos. 4 track days total...that I know of

https://youtube.com/shorts/EBdSUAxCVXM - Don't know why this is a short.
- With rotor attached
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      02-01-2023, 03:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankMstein View Post
How often do these go out? One or both are at 63k and clicking while cornering and see videos. 4 track days total...that I know of

https://youtube.com/shorts/EBdSUAxCVXM - Don't know why this is a short.
https://youtu.be/h-AiPFRuzAk - With rotor attached
Wow those are smoked.

I replaced mine at 28k and 8 track days. Just get them through FCP euro and replace for free every season or 2 is my plan.
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      02-01-2023, 08:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyLedouche View Post
Wow those are smoked.

I replaced mine at 28k and 8 track days. Just get them through FCP euro and replace for free every season or 2 is my plan.
>>>same plan<<< Thankfully it is just the RF.

Last edited by FrankMstein; 02-06-2023 at 08:17 PM..
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      04-27-2023, 12:59 PM   #37
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Great Right up! Are the wheel hub assesmbly part number the same for both front left and right? pn# 31207857506
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      04-27-2023, 01:03 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by carM3kee View Post
Great Right up! Are the wheel hub assesmbly part number the same for both front left and right? pn# 31207857506
Same PN for both sides.
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      07-01-2023, 12:35 PM   #39
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Great write up! Thanks to you it made changing the wheel hub go very smoothly!
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      07-01-2023, 04:04 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by TUNEDM3 View Post
Great write up! Thanks to you it made changing the wheel hub go very smoothly!
I’m glad to hear this is helping people!
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      12-10-2023, 09:05 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyLedouche View Post
I’m glad to hear this is helping people!
Gotta dig this up for my F87 crew. Epic thread and went by the book... but stripped both rotor retaining bolts on the left front and gave up. Why BMW put two of these demonic little things on the rotors, I do not understand.

I have new rotors, pads, bolts, hub assemblies to go on anyway...so...

Instead of screwing around drilling etc, wouldn't it just be easier for me to tear out the hub bolts from the back of the carrier and wouldn't that cause the entire old rotor and hub assembly to just fall out? The front hub/rotor assembly seems like a really easy design to work on...

Any advice??
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      12-10-2023, 12:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7tune View Post
Gotta dig this up for my F87 crew. Epic thread and went by the book... but stripped both rotor retaining bolts on the left front and gave up. Why BMW put two of these demonic little things on the rotors, I do not understand.

I have new rotors, pads, bolts, hub assemblies to go on anyway...so...

Instead of screwing around drilling etc, wouldn't it just be easier for me to tear out the hub bolts from the back of the carrier and wouldn't that cause the entire old rotor and hub assembly to just fall out? The front hub/rotor assembly seems like a really easy design to work on...

Any advice??
Ya, you can just take the hub and rotor off together.
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      12-12-2023, 12:14 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7tune View Post
Gotta dig this up for my F87 crew. Epic thread and went by the book... but stripped both rotor retaining bolts on the left front and gave up. Why BMW put two of these demonic little things on the rotors, I do not understand.

I have new rotors, pads, bolts, hub assemblies to go on anyway...so...

Instead of screwing around drilling etc, wouldn't it just be easier for me to tear out the hub bolts from the back of the carrier and wouldn't that cause the entire old rotor and hub assembly to just fall out? The front hub/rotor assembly seems like a really easy design to work on...

Any advice??
When I buy a used car I always change all the fluids immediately and disassemble the brakes and make sure I can get the pins to slide and the rotos to come off. That includes the screws holding the rotors on. If the car is tracked, I look at the caliper piston boots.
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      02-26-2024, 12:53 PM   #44
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Any way to get inside the hub (part where you screw studs into)? I broke a stud off in the hub and as I was trying to drill a pilot hole to screw it out, it fell into the wheel hub and is rattling around in there. Lovely.
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