Is there an ideal tire pressure setting for wheel alignments?

[Rahul718]

Hello,

I recently had my '16 ZCP M4 aligned and while everything came back in the green, I'm curious if there is a target tire pressure setting that the alignment should be done at. Or it doesn't really matter as long as it's even all around, which mine was? For example, if it was aligned at 31psi all around and came back within spec, can I assume the same would apply if they aligned at 30psi or 32psi all around?

Thanks!

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by Rahul718

Hello,

I recently had my '16 ZCP M4 aligned and while everything came back in the green, I'm curious if there is a target tire pressure setting that the alignment should be done at. Or it doesn't really matter as long as it's even all around, which mine was? For example, if it was aligned at 31psi all around and came back within spec, can I assume the same would apply if they aligned at 30psi or 32psi all around?

Thanks!

When I used to do alignments, we are supposed to do tire pressure first and make sure everything is even or almost even and then on the rack the alignment machine asks you to roll the car forward and back for compensation of variables.

Also, they are aligning your suspension components and the angle your wheel hits the ground. Recommendation from me is to get an alignment after getting a new set of tires, switching out suspension components, or if you have uneven tire wear and the car doesn't track straight.

Even if you change your rim size and tire size, you don't need to get another alignment because there are only 3 adjustments on the car.

Caster, Camber, and Toe. Toe won't change, if you had like zero toe, it will stay at zero toe, Camber will change slightly but camber is mostly dynamic when you drive normally, and caster is usually not changeable unless you have upgraded suspension components.

[Rahul718]

Originally Posted by N1rve

When I used to do alignments, we are supposed to do tire pressure first and make sure everything is even or almost even and then on the rack the alignment machine asks you to roll the car forward and back for compensation of variables.

Also, they are aligning your suspension components and the angle your wheel hits the ground. Recommendation from me is to get an alignment after getting a new set of tires, switching out suspension components, or if you have uneven tire wear and the car doesn't track straight.

Even if you change your rim size and tire size, you don't need to get another alignment because there are only 3 adjustments on the car.

Caster, Camber, and Toe. Toe won't change, if you had like zero toe, it will stay at zero toe, Camber will change slightly but camber is mostly dynamic when you drive normally, and caster is usually not changeable unless you have upgraded suspension components.

Thanks for the feedback man. Is it safe to say that evenness of psi among all 4 tires is the main thing to watch out for, over setting them at a certain PSI?

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by Rahul718

Thanks for the feedback man. Is it safe to say that evenness of psi among all 4 tires is the main thing to watch out for, over setting them at a certain PSI?

Yeah. As long as it's roughly equal, it would not make a difference plus rolling on the rack for the computer to compensate.

[TopJimmy]

Set your tires to 32PSI cold before aligning. Do any HAS adjustments before the alignment too.