Shifteck 75mm Wheel Stud Kit

[MasterP]

I just picked up these Shifteck Wheel studs. Retail is $84.95, but they were running a special they announced if you follow their IG. So I purchased a set at the deal they were offering.

Yes, I'm a big fan of theirs as I also own their downpipes. Mainly I like they offer quality products without jamming you with the ///MTax. Sure wheel studs can be $189+, but do they NEED to be?

Anyway, IIRC the specs are grade 10.9 Hardened steel. The lugs are a steel alloy that are actually quite lightweight. They told me the materials, but I'm not sure if that's proprietary or not - if you ask I'm sure they'll tell. At first I thought they may have been aluminum (which I dislike) until I put them in my Magnet tray. They were magnetic, but barely.

Anyway, here's my install with pics. This is a no brainer. So easy a caveman can do it.

75MM stud kit. 14MM for F3X/F8X. With 17MM open ended lugs.



Stock wheel bolts vs. Shifteck Wheel Studs



Jack/Raise up the car



I started with the rear and all pics are of the rear since this is the end most sensitive to fitment with spacers. I ended up with 15mm rear, 12mm front after playing around with it. I don't think any tire wider than 285 with OEM 437 would fit IMO. Car is lowered on H&R "SUPER" sport springs - the lower of their two offerings. Stock Alignment. I hope I can run 295's in back with more negative camber in the rear.




I chose Blue Thread lock for this purpose. I run Red on my E92 track car since Wheels on and off a lot. F80 not so much. FYI Permatex Blue smells delicious.


#5 Hex Socket. Torque bar set to 18 ft. lbs. (~25nm) That's a Matco Factory set 25nm torque bar. Just a hair over 18 ft. lbs. It helps to tap the socket until it bottoms out in the stud just to make sure it's fully engaged before torquing to prevent rounding out.



Done.

No Spacer



12mm Spacer



15mm spacer


This is how far they extend without spacers at all



with 12mm spacers



with 15mm spacers




So far so good. No vibrations and I check the torque after every drive. None have backed out and the lugs have not loosened.

I have a track day on the 30th of this month so I'll take the car out and see how everything stays together.

[3er]

Awesome writeup, thanks for sharing!

[JNoSol]

Great write up. What lip are your running?

[rubber_ducky]

Originally Posted by 3er

Awesome writeup, thanks for sharing!

^^^This^^^

Great photos

[Palomequet]

Very interesting thread.

[tr_ms3]

Nicely written, as usual.

[MineralWhiteF80]

looking good! Your car is awesome.

But since we are talking about wheel studs, I have a question. Has anyone noticed that ALL of the wheel studs available for this car that have the 5 mm Allen holes in the end are IDENTICAL? Multiple places sell wheel studs for totally different prices yet they are all exactly the same. They have the same color, same rounded shoulder between hub threads and lugnut threads, etc.... Im thinking there is one super secret stud manufacturer that supplies the same stud to everyone and businesses just charge whatever they think is appropriate for their company. Correct me if Im wrong but it sure appears this way.

The only difference you will find is the certification process that each company used- and 3 different places can send the same stud off to multiple different companies for different DIN/ISO/TuV certifications.

The only exception I have found is Turner Motorsport which has a true bullet nose stud available but you are looking at over 300 dollars for studs/nuts for them.

With that said, Shifteck would be the way to go since they have the lowest price by far for the same stud that everyone else sells.

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by MineralWhiteF80

looking good! Your car is awesome.

But since we are talking about wheel studs, I have a question. Has anyone noticed that ALL of the wheel studs available for this car that have the 5 mm Allen holes in the end are IDENTICAL? Multiple places sell wheel studs for totally different prices yet they are all exactly the same. They have the same color, same rounded shoulder between hub threads and lugnut threads, etc.... Im thinking there is one super secret stud manufacturer that supplies the same stud to everyone and businesses just charge whatever they think is appropriate for their company. Correct me if Im wrong but it sure appears this way.

The only difference you will find is the certification process that each company used- and 3 different places can send the same stud off to multiple different companies for different DIN/ISO/TuV certifications.

The only exception I have found is Turner Motorsport which has a true bullet nose stud available but you are looking at over 300 dollars for studs/nuts for them.

With that said, Shifteck would be the way to go since they have the lowest price by far for the same stud that everyone else sells.

At the end of the day, it's a wheel stud. There can't be that much deviation in design since it's such a simple product. Just like the down pipes there can be some variance but you're still confined to the chassis of the car and the exhaust system.

I pulled this off Shifteck's site:

Macht Schnell:
10.9 grade steel
bullet tip
black zinc coated for longevity
20 studs with 20 hex nuts (conical seat)
Din/ISO Standard 898
Around $150

Motorsport Hardware:
10.9 grade steel
bullet tip
black zinc coated for longevity
20 studs with 20 hex nuts (conical seat)
Certified by ISO/TS 16949 and ISO 9001 by TÜV
Around $125

Shifteck:
10.9 grade steel
bullet tip
black zinc coated for longevity
20 studs with 20 hex nuts (conical seat)
Manufactured under ISO 898 and ISO 9001
$84.95 WITH LIFETIME WARRANTY

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by JNoSol

Great write up. What lip are your running?

It's JL motoring M Performance Replica without the Inserts.

Their service was admirable. I did have fitment issues and it took a lot more effort than I was expecting to get a "livable" result. It's not perfect, and to me I can still see flaws.

[saxon]

just bought the shifteck, great price except they rape you on shipping.

realistically they could fit everything in $5 flat rate box from the post office, but instead they charge $20 for shipping

edit, it was an error and they changed shipping cost to $10

[pikkagtr]

Originally Posted by saxon

just bought the shifteck, great price except they rape you on shipping.

realistically they could fit everything in $5 flat rate box from the post office, but instead they charge $20 for shipping

so that would have been 85$ shipped......still half the price of the Macht Snells before shipping

[saxon]

Originally Posted by pikkagtr

so that would have been 85$ shipped......still half the price of the Macht Snells before shipping

thats like saying, well shipping was only $40 but it was still $20 cheaper than everywhere else

$20 to ship what should only cost 5-maybe 10 with handling is still crazy.

[JNoSol]

Originally Posted by saxon

thats like saying, well shipping was only $40 but it was still $20 cheaper than everywhere else

$20 to ship what should only cost 5-maybe 10 with handling is still crazy.

Just mail them a small USPS flat rate box with pre-paid shipping label.

[saxon]

Originally Posted by JNoSol

Just mail them a small USPS flat rate box with pre-paid shipping label.

how about something even better, they noticed that shipping was incorrect for this item and its only supposed to be $10, they refunded the difference

to Shifteck

[zamm3k]

Originally Posted by saxon

how about something even better, they noticed that shipping was incorrect for this item and its only supposed to be $10, they refunded the difference

to Shifteck

sold. Purchasing now!

[lsturbointeg]

Nice write-up!

[saxon]

Received mine yesterday, quick shipping and looks decent

[F80 M Freak]

is APEX wheel stud and spacer a good choice?

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by F80 M Freak

is APEX wheel stud and spacer a good choice?

Even though this is about shifteck studs,

YES from what I've seen apex Wheel studs are good products. I have their stud kit on my E92. I have their spacer sets as well.

But APEX studs are twice the price. Your call.

[dim635csi]

How do you lock front rotor to put those studs in ?

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by dim635csi

How do you lock front rotor to put those studs in ?

Get a pole that you can prop up between the brake pedal and the seat. Then move the seat forward to depress the brake pedal.

[MasterP]

Slip a screw driver in the rotor vanes. Wrap a towel around the handle and let it butt up against the caliper.