Blown Engine

[papasmurf_m3]

Originally Posted by Corn Mode

Looks like Omar at Vader Solutions might have another offer for me (engine sourcing and building). They also convinced me to go single turbo. I've been thinking about it for a while but after speaking with them a bit, I'm sold. IT is badass not to mention the beautiful engine notes that come with a single turbo. 4N produces the ST kits. Might as well since I'm going to be rebuilding!

I'll add updates to the sources and builders and what not to the original post once I have it all together.

Don't go single. They are sucking you dry. The cost to do a fully built motor and the gains you get are marginal if you are looking at this from a cost perspective. You can make the power you wanted with something simple. You have choices.

Those single always seem to have issues. Nothing more reliable and easy to use as your twins.

[deli333]

I am assuming single is as laggy as f word. no matter what single users says. correct me if I am wrong.

[Wanted_M]

Originally Posted by deli333

I am assuming single is as laggy as f word. no matter what single users says. correct me if I am wrong.

It's all preference. I came from a supercharger slap you in the face response . I'll take a single turbo any day due to its simplicity and those top mount
Opt for a BW EFR 9280 with your EWG. A single turbo set up if done right shouldn't give you headaches and of course Bend for the tuning.

[BzsBimmer]

Wow. Sorry to see this carnage. Hope you get this back on the road better than before.

[sly1types]

Prodrive_X

That looks like a spun rod bearing. What did the rest of your bearings look like?

My rod bearings were done at 70k...

Originally Posted by Prodrive_X

Do you know which cylinder broke? I have a similar case and I don't think it was an injector issue:








The oil pan also broke, I had to repair it:

[slaughter.mode]

Just an update. Omar @ Vader solutions is a very cool guy. I just realized he made the video which I used to install my MHD ECA CAN unit. I gave him a call at my tuners suggestion and he has both an engine source if I need it or will help me rebuild my engine at a fraction of the CarBahn cost. He's also going to help me with a 4N turbo kit. They prefer the version with the external wastegates. More details on that later. Looks like this is going to be another 1,000whp monster!

I am getting my jacks and stands today so I'll be able to rip the bottom off to see more details of the damage. Praying I'll be able to see more from dropping the oil pan.

PS-Anyone have any suggestions on how to get E85 out of the tank? Siphon? Is there some sort of mechanical pump? I need to get this stuff out asap.

[TopJimmy]

Siphon out through the filler doesn't work. Best is to go under the back seat, open the LPFP cover, and siphon through there.

I've heard that you can disconnect the rubber line feeding the HPFPs and power-on and the LPFP will pump the fuel down the line. Downside is you'll run the pump dry when you get to empty.

Siphon sounds much safer.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Siphon out through the filler doesn't work. Best is to go under the back seat, open the LPFP cover, and siphon through there.

I've heard that you can disconnect the rubber line feeding the HPFPs and power-on and the LPFP will pump the fuel down the line. Downside is you'll run the pump dry when you get to empty.

Siphon sounds much safer.

In this way i always empty the fuel from the tank when people make the wrong fuel at the service station. There is also an option to activate the LPFP with the diagnosis.

[slaughter.mode]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Siphon out through the filler doesn't work. Best is to go under the back seat, open the LPFP cover, and siphon through there.

I've heard that you can disconnect the rubber line feeding the HPFPs and power-on and the LPFP will pump the fuel down the line. Downside is you'll run the pump dry when you get to empty.

Siphon sounds much safer.

I was wondering about that. I do have a 10 gallon jug of 91 ready to go so I can watch the needle and just fill it as it hits near E then cycle it through? Not sure how soon it stops once I turn off the ignition-guess I'll find out! Thanks for the tip.

[slaughter.mode]

Originally Posted by papasmurf_m3

Don't go single. They are sucking you dry. The cost to do a fully built motor and the gains you get are marginal if you are looking at this from a cost perspective. You can make the power you wanted with something simple. You have choices.

Those single always seem to have issues. Nothing more reliable and easy to use as your twins.

Really? I know a few folks with single turbos and they absolutely love it. Haven't heard of many issues. Obviously SMOG is an issue but by 2026 as someone said, I'll have my LCI G82 and this will be my track car. At that point I'll want to chase 1,000 whp and maybe twins can do it just fine but the singles do it great.

deli333 there's really not much turbo lag on the ST setup from what I've seen and heard but nothing is going to be as responsive as twins. I can definitely live with a little less torque, it's what probably got me to where I am in the first place.

[Simon P.]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

I've heard that you can disconnect the rubber line feeding the HPFPs and power-on and the LPFP will pump the fuel down the line. Downside is you'll run the pump dry when you get to empty.

That will only empty the right hand side of the tank (where the LPFP lives). These cars have saddle style tanks because of the driveshaft. The tank "halves" are only connected by the top few inches of the tank, thus the need for a transfer siphon that is powered by the LPFP.
The transfer siphon only works when pressure is applied to the output line so if you try to run the pump with an open end you'll only get roughly half of the fuel presently in the tank. It's better than nothing, but it won't be empty.
There's no real way to get it all out on these cars other than to drop the tank which is serious overkill in this and many cases, it was much easier on the E9x, E46 and E36 when you had an access cover over both halves of the tank.

[Wanted_M]

Siphoning out that moonshine won't kill ya

[BzsBimmer]

How long can Eblended gas sit in a tank?
I’m going on 3 weeks now as the car is down and I’ve been too busy to work on her.

[n8dgr84]

Depends on the blend and how much air is in the tank.
I think a couple months should be ok.
I had jerry cans of it sitting around for 4 months and no issues but they were full and sealed tight.

[BzsBimmer]

Originally Posted by n8dgr84

Depends on the blend and how much air is in the tank.
I think a couple months should be ok.
I had jerry cans of it sitting around for 4 months and no issues but they were full and sealed tight.

It’s in my gas tank if that matters. Not gas canisters.

[slaughter.mode]

Well I just ordered a manual pump to get as much E85 out the tank from Amazon. After that I'll fill up about 5 gallons of 91 and then put the car into accessory mode to push it through. I think I'll be good with leaving the fuel as-is from there on out.

The next step will be pulling the engine. Thank goodness for YouTube. Turns out you can't drop the oil pan without removing the sub frame. Some guy posted a video of doing that (holy crap). I'll probably start another thread on S55 engine removal from the garage since it's not a common topic. The methodology I'll be using to remove the engine is:

• Remove front bumper and support.
• Remove engine from driver side mount (mount still connected to frame).
• Removing entire mount (attached to engine) on passenger side.
• Removing transmission bolts from engine.
• Lift out engine.

[Vandaljimenez]

Godspeed my brother!!

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by Corn Mode

Just an update. Omar @ Vader solutions is a very cool guy. I just realized he made the video which I used to install my MHD ECA CAN unit. I gave him a call at my tuners suggestion and he has both an engine source if I need it or will help me rebuild my engine at a fraction of the CarBahn cost. He's also going to help me with a 4N turbo kit. They prefer the version with the external wastegates. More details on that later. Looks like this is going to be another 1,000whp monster!

I am getting my jacks and stands today so I'll be able to rip the bottom off to see more details of the damage. Praying I'll be able to see more from dropping the oil pan.

PS-Anyone have any suggestions on how to get E85 out of the tank? Siphon? Is there some sort of mechanical pump? I need to get this stuff out asap.

Cost if you dont mind me asking? That shits gonna be low 4's 60-130 going up againt the fastest cars on the street,

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by Corn Mode

Well I just ordered a manual pump to get as much E85 out the tank from Amazon. After that I'll fill up about 5 gallons of 91 and then put the car into accessory mode to push it through. I think I'll be good with leaving the fuel as-is from there on out.

The next step will be pulling the engine. Thank goodness for YouTube. Turns out you can't drop the oil pan without removing the sub frame. Some guy posted a video of doing that (holy crap). I'll probably start another thread on S55 engine removal from the garage since it's not a common topic. The methodology I'll be using to remove the engine is:

• Remove front bumper and support.
• Remove engine from driver side mount (mount still connected to frame).
• Removing entire mount (attached to engine) on passenger side.
• Removing transmission bolts from engine.
• Lift out engine.

Its gonna be a fun job, Like i always say, cars are not fun to work on if your rushing. Take your time, take breaks, chill relax, drink a beer. And do a little bit each day. It becomes incredibly fun that way. You now have a project to keep you busy for a good while. One thing i recommend is GET SCOTCH TAPE AND A MARKER, Every sensor you remove make sure you wrap a piece of tape around the wire and write on it what it belongs too, and same thing with the bolts, Have a bunch of baggys to put the bolts in and mark it where they go. This will make installing so simple.

Theres nothing like working on your own car and after its all said and done you will know more about the s55 mechanically than 95% of people.

[slaughter.mode]

Originally Posted by M2_MEDUSA

Cost if you dont mind me asking? That shits gonna be low 4's 60-130 going up againt the fastest cars on the street,

Originally Posted by M2_MEDUSA

Its gonna be a fun job, Like i always say, cars are not fun to work on if your rushing. Take your time, take breaks, chill relax, drink a beer. And do a little bit each day. It becomes incredibly fun that way. You now have a project to keep you busy for a good while. One thing i recommend is GET SCOTCH TAPE AND A MARKER, Every sensor you remove make sure you wrap a piece of tape around the wire and write on it what it belongs too, and same thing with the bolts, Have a bunch of baggys to put the bolts in and mark it where they go. This will make installing so simple.

Theres nothing like working on your own car and after its all said and done you will know more about the s55 mechanically than 95% of people.

Engine (with arrow rods, upgraded valve springs, CP pistons and ARP bolts and the rest brand new OEM internals and a pinned crank hub is $15k. He builds these engines for 1,200whp and says they're solid as they come.

Yea I plan to take my time and I actually have a ton of that blue painters tape which I usually use and my sharpies and cardboard for drawing bolt locations and making holes to place the bolts in. I do always feel no matter what if I do it myself it’s always better. Slow and steady all the way. If I get jammed up too bad the shop will install for $1000 which isn’t bad at all either. Luckily I work from home. I also have my Panigale that’s been neglected and getting some love now.

[Vandaljimenez]

That’s really not bad at all for $15k

[Wanted_M]

Ask about using King main bearings and Calico coated or WPC treated rod bearings vs stock?