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      03-09-2020, 01:52 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Quick question. I plan to replace the belts while im in there and wanted to drop the fan from below. Does the car need to be raised very high if done on jackstands to clear the fan from the car or am i able to tilt it diagonally out of the car?

Thanks.
Are you looking to fully remove the fan? The picture of mine below gives you an idea as it is about half way out. I personally don't think there is enough room to tilt it forward or back in relation to the car as it will hit other bits.

[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...8;d=1555762353[/IMG]
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      03-09-2020, 10:11 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR RIZK View Post
Are you looking to fully remove the fan? The picture of mine below gives you an idea as it is about half way out. I personally don't think there is enough room to tilt it forward or back in relation to the car as it will hit other bits.

[IMG]https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1555762353[/IMG]
Thanks. I guess i will put the front and back on jackstands to get more clearance.
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      03-26-2020, 08:49 PM   #69
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Thanks so much for this DIY, wouldnít have attempted this w/out it! Couple thoughts:
  1. In step 15, the 2nd lower hose clip was a huge PITA for me. I had to stop and contemplate life a couple times just to maintain my sanity. What eventually worked was using 2 different plastic pry tools, one to lift the tab and the other to push the clip open.
  2. You were right, itís key to have a short extension to open and tighten the CBC bolts. A 1-3/4Ē extension is perfect given the clearance which I had to go out and buy.
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      03-26-2020, 11:20 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rantlers View Post
Thanks so much for this DIY, wouldn’t have attempted this w/out it! Couple thoughts:
  1. In step 15, the 2nd lower hose clip was a huge PITA for me. I had to stop and contemplate life a couple times just to maintain my sanity. What eventually worked was using 2 different plastic pry tools, one to lift the tab and the other to push the clip open.
  2. You were right, it’s key to have a short extension to open and tighten the CBC bolts. A 1-3/4” extension is perfect given the clearance which I had to go out and buy.
How long did it take you?
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      03-27-2020, 07:56 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicck_f82 View Post
How long did it take you?
Rough estimate:
  • 1hr: disassembly to gain access to crank hub
  • 2hrs: removal of 2nd hose clamp (j/k!)
  • 1.5hr: install of CBC - this part requires patience if you're by yourself, need one hand to hold mirror and a steady hand to line up and mate the socket each time. I also re-checked tightness like 3 times. Could probably cut this time in half if you could have someone hold the mirror for you from above.
  • 1hr: reassembly

So, somewhere between 3-4hrs if you're doing it alone (ignore that 2nd bullet).
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      03-28-2020, 07:22 AM   #72
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Is there any known case of crank hub spin with Crank Bolt Capture installed?
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      03-28-2020, 09:20 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeglA View Post
Is there any known case of crank hub spin with Crank Bolt Capture installed?
Thereís a thread about a guy spinning a VTT V1 hub, but thatís the only one Iíve seen.
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      03-28-2020, 10:39 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djdnav View Post
Thereís a thread about a guy spinning a VTT V1 hub, but thatís the only one Iíve seen.

I mean stock crank hub + crank bolt capture
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      03-28-2020, 01:09 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeglA View Post
I mean stock crank hub + crank bolt capture
Yes, a couple people have spun stock hubs with just a CBC. While a CBC by itself does provide some protection, the complete solution is the spline lock and the CBC working together, addressing the two main causes of spun hubs.
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      03-28-2020, 09:17 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CeglA View Post
I mean stock crank hub + crank bolt capture
Yes, a couple people have spun stock hubs with just a CBC. While a CBC by itself does provide some protection, the complete solution is the spline lock and the CBC working together, addressing the two main causes of spun hubs.
Chris, I am running your CBC with the stock hub. I tried keeping an eye on SCH cases with just CBC and I've only heard about that M2 comp that money shifted terribly. While I'm aware it's not a complete solution, I felt good about that being the only example. So I'm curious about other cases you know of, any more details you could share? Thanks
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      03-29-2020, 01:43 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82Vanja View Post
Chris, I am running your CBC with the stock hub. I tried keeping an eye on SCH cases with just CBC and I've only heard about that M2 comp that money shifted terribly. While I'm aware it's not a complete solution, I felt good about that being the only example. So I'm curious about other cases you know of, any more details you could share? Thanks
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      03-29-2020, 12:50 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82Vanja View Post
Chris, I am running your CBC with the stock hub. I tried keeping an eye on SCH cases with just CBC and I've only heard about that M2 comp that money shifted terribly. While I'm aware it's not a complete solution, I felt good about that being the only example. So I'm curious about other cases you know of, any more details you could share? Thanks
+2
I've seen you claim this a few times and have yet to see any cases.
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      03-29-2020, 04:12 PM   #79
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I do not recall the exact details, as we have been saying (over and over) the spline lock AND the CBC used together is the complete solution, but IIRC, one example is a guy in Europe who had a CBC only, stock hub, upgraded turbos and meth, power unknown, it let go on hard driving on the street. Another one here in the US bought a car used with CBC on it, untuned, put it on the dyno with E85 and spun the hub pretty much immediately (stock turbo). I've personally interacted with a few cases like that, we always try to be perfectly clear; yes, the CBC does provide some protection by itself, but it only addresses one of the two mechanisms of slipped hubs. Run a spline lock with a CBC and stop worrying about it altogether.

Remember, the forums are one subset of people's experiences and they start to sort of be their own ecosystem based on perception of posts/etc. I get tons of emails about this and encourage people to contact me directly if you have questions or want some 40,000' overview on how we see things.


Chris

Last edited by Chris@VargasTurboTech; 03-29-2020 at 04:18 PM..
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      03-29-2020, 07:57 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allinon72 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterF80M3 View Post
Still reasonable compared to some shops asking $3000+
A quote of 3k+ is a "go away" quote. They don't want to do the work.
The east coast shops are ask $3k, I'm willing to upgrade for $1300 easily, but for $3k , nope warranty still in effect.
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      03-29-2020, 08:09 PM   #81
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Just installed mine on friday, took me about 3 hours.
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      03-29-2020, 11:05 PM   #82
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Car shops all over Europe are installing these cbc. Much easier to repair if ur oem crank hub spun. Just tdc ur car n replace oem crank hub n add cbc.
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      03-30-2020, 10:03 AM   #83
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Per the provided directions for re-installing the coolant pump belt, how do you rotate the motor once the crank bolt capture is installed to re-tension that outer belt?
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      03-30-2020, 01:10 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozmo44 View Post
Per the provided directions for re-installing the coolant pump belt, how do you rotate the motor once the crank bolt capture is installed to re-tension that outer belt?
I installed the belt and rotated the waterpump pulley bolt clockwise. It turned both the crank and waterpump until the waterpump pulley shifted back into the loaded position.
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      03-30-2020, 01:12 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Did you remove the 4 bolts on the waterpump pulley? You turn the crank bolt clockwise until the waterpump pulley shifts back into the loaded position.

You can't turn the crank bolt after the capture is mounted. Can you turn the waterpump pully via its bolt?
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      03-30-2020, 03:18 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
I installed the belt and rotated the waterpump pulley bolt clockwise. It turned both the crank and waterpump until the waterpump pulley shifted back into the loaded position.
OK great, that was my guess but wasn't sure. Thanks for the help.
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      05-01-2020, 05:10 AM   #87
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I installed this today. Looked like my 2017 M4 has the same extra cover on the fan housing like the M2C.
On my M4 this was a serious pain in the ass. As the extra cover is hold by 3 torx bolt, with 1 you never could reach without dropping the housing down.
That extra cover has some hard plastic in it and doesn't bend a lot.

I preferred to install the cbc from the top, as lying on my back didn't work that well.
I could just drop down the fan housing enough to reach the pulley.
As some people stated the pulley came lose when extracting all the 8 bolts. To prevent this i cut the head of of 2 regular M8 bolts
In this way i could extract the bolts from the pulley and put the 2 cutted bolts on the pulley. Like this the pulley can't shift or fall of.

Then you can just slide the cbc over the cutted bolts and put the rest of the bolts in.At last you take the 2 cutted bolts out and put the new ones in.
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      05-02-2020, 12:39 AM   #88
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Great write up. I did this in about 2 hours, but my bumper was off for some unrelated stuff. I went the route of dropping the fan about 1/2 way out(no coolant hoses disconnected) and was able to blindly get all bolts started by hand and subsequently torqued with 3/8Ē ratchet and 6mm bit on a 2Ē extension. Also as long as youíre not yanking on things, pulley should not come loose.
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