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      05-28-2020, 01:06 PM   #89
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I knew this writeup was good but now that I did my crank bolt capture this past week, this writeup was priceless! Excellent detail as to what has to be done. I opted to remove the fan when I did mine simply because I was sick of working around stuff. Surprisingly, it went together much faster than it came apart.
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      06-04-2020, 11:09 AM   #90
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If youíre reading this and about to install the CBC, do yourself a favor and remove the coolant pump and drain the coolant. I barely got the fan shroud out with the pump in but I could not reinstall with the coolant pump installed so I removed it and the fan shroud slid right in. Also, bleeding the cooling system on the s55 has a specific procedure. I did it 4 times and the coolant level never dropped. I had to drive the car until the drivetrain warning came on (coolant pump dry running) filled the reservoir, drove it again, dt warning, topped off, drove it again, no dt warning but coolant level dropped a bit so I topped it off. I drained all the coolant into a clean bucket so I knew how much coolant had to go back into the system. Hope this helps!
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      06-04-2020, 02:45 PM   #91
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I just installed the vargas CBC as well. I noticed theres one huge part of all this that no one has mentioned online.. Crank balancing.

We are ADDING weight to the crank pulley (thats never good). It's not the part itself thats the majority of the weight, but swapping to those supplied bolts rather than aluminum stretch bolts that weigh hardly nothing. What do some have to say about this? With a balanced engine like this adding a pretty decent amount of weigh to the crank pulley I would imagine would 1) Rob power and torque, 2) possibly give off false knock during hard acceleration 3) Cause the pulley to wobble slightly.

I feel like I have noticed numbers 1 and 2 after installing. What do others think?
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      06-04-2020, 05:12 PM   #92
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They cant be aluminum. They have 10.9 hardening stamped on them.

The extra weight from the CBC is negligible. Why would extra weight cause the engine to think there is engine knocking? Knock is from unexpected air/fuel combustion...
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      06-04-2020, 09:20 PM   #93
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As per my post I posted the weights of the H2M setup which uses oem style bolts. Keep in mind the additional weight is close to the centre line of the crank.

Do you think BMW balances the clutch, vibration damper and crank together? I bet they don't.
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      06-05-2020, 12:54 AM   #94
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Do you think there is a possibility of robbed power? I felt the package with the bolts and CBC together. The actual CBC piece is pretty light, would not make much difference. However, in combo with the bolts it's definitely a noticeable amount of weight you are adding. Usually cars try to go to LIGHTER crank pulleys, not the other way around. Just curious if others have thought about this?
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      06-05-2020, 02:47 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistm4 View Post
Do you think there is a possibility of robbed power? I felt the package with the bolts and CBC together. The actual CBC piece is pretty light, would not make much difference. However, in combo with the bolts it's definitely a noticeable amount of weight you are adding. Usually cars try to go to LIGHTER crank pulleys, not the other way around. Just curious if others have thought about this?
The bolts are heavy. No idea if this adds too much weight. Guessing bolts are around 100g. The CBC is only 35g. Be interested to know too
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      06-05-2020, 07:47 AM   #96
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The whole setup is axisymmetric. The only way it becomes unbalanced is if the bolts weigh different amounts. Weigh them and grind off material to match them if you wish, but nobody does that for the clutch/flywheel or the oem damper bolts, it's all commercial hardware.

For an engine with this much power I highly doubt it makes a noticeable difference. You could barely tell on the little Honda motors with a lightweight underdrive pulley.
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      06-05-2020, 10:25 AM   #97
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Inconsequential amount of mass, it's a physics problem to solve for fun, real world disappears. Turn the boost up!
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      06-05-2020, 06:23 PM   #98
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Inconsequential amount of mass, it's a physics problem to solve for fun, real world disappears. Turn the boost up!
This is typically the solution I like to use lol
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      07-08-2020, 08:10 AM   #99
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temping to DIY but not sure, what's reasonable labor for this job in NY?
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      07-10-2020, 05:03 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistm4 View Post
Do you think there is a possibility of robbed power? I felt the package with the bolts and CBC together. The actual CBC piece is pretty light, would not make much difference. However, in combo with the bolts it's definitely a noticeable amount of weight you are adding. Usually cars try to go to LIGHTER crank pulleys, not the other way around. Just curious if others have thought about this?
You gain power with pulleys by spinning the accessories slower and reducing the draw on the engine. The weight of the pulleys/flywheel doesnít make any difference in power.
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      07-11-2020, 11:23 PM   #101
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Mass does make a small amount of difference, but it's not worth consideration in this example/application (i.e. won't notice).
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      07-21-2020, 07:02 PM   #102
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I suffered through this VTT CBC install this weekend on my '16 M3, and I made a few huge mistakes that made the job much worse than it should have been, so I'd like to share my experience and publicly embarrass myself by revealing what a terrible DIY mechanic I am to potentially save others from my misery.

First off, huge thanks to OP Rotzy for writing this comprehensive install guide and taking all the pictures (with fasteners and clips circled... SO HELPFUL).

Minor details: In steps 1/2, I did not unplug the sensor on the intake tube, as I've in the past managed to break connectors by unplugging them, so I after all the other fasteners and clips on the intake tube were removed, I just flipped it upside-down and laid it on top of the engine cover (the wire to the sensor is long enough to do that). I also didn't remove the engine cover.

I opted to drop the fan shroud down to install the CBC; I tried lifting it up, but I couldn't get as much access to the crank pulley area working from the bottom as I wanted.

Dropping the fan shroud down was frustrating. I have plenty of experience in DIY wrenching on cars, so I'm definitely not a noob to this kind of work, but man, the sharp/hard edges of the FRP shroud biting into your hands and the shroud running into EVERYTHING IN EVERY DIRECTION as you try to manuever it really tries your patience. Even when you have a good idea of what needs to be shifted/flex/bent which way because of Rotzy's outstanding DIY. Just be mentally prepared for this. SERENITY NOW!!!

I ended up having to remove the two star bolts that hold up the plastic support frame that secures the transmission oil cooler (the not-very-tall but full-width heat exchanger) and moved that down to get clearance for the driver's side bottom mounting tab of the fan shroud to move downward.

I moved the fan shroud down a lot to get good clearance/access from above... you can see in my pics how far I dropped it (about 6 3/4" down, measuring the top of the fan shroud to the top of the radiator):





BUT, before you start moving the fan shroud down, you should get a large piece of corrogated cardboard and slip it between the radiator and the passenger-side of the fan shroud to prevent the radiator fins from being smooshed by the passenger-side top hanger "hook" of the fan shroud. I didn't think to do this until *after* I saw I was deforming the radiator fins.



I read on page 4 of this thread where weytie offered this suggestion:

As some people stated the pulley came lose when extracting all the 8 bolts. To prevent this i cut the head of of 2 regular M8 bolts
In this way i could extract the bolts from the pulley and put the 2 cutted bolts on the pulley. Like this the pulley can't shift or fall of.

Then you can just slide the cbc over the cutted bolts and put the rest of the bolts in.At last you take the 2 cutted bolts out and put the new ones in.


So, this seemed like a really smart idea to prevent the pulley from coming loose/shifting position. Logically, it's better to take steps to prevent the pulley from moving than to have to deal with repositioning it, right? Unfortunately, it didn't work for meóthe pulley still came looseóand then the studs caused extra problems/headaches. Read on for why, OR you can just skip the next two paragraphs and get to what I eventually had to do and what I recommend instead.

The issue (for me; obviously it worked just fine for weytie and this individual definitely gets credit for thinking of using the temporary locating studs) was that even with two 8 x 1.25 studs inserted in place of the OEM bolts to secure the pulley's location rotationally (i.e., as the hands on a clock move) the pulley still shifted OUTWARDS, away from the engine and toward the radiator, and with the tension on it from the serpentine belt, it immediately got cockeyed and jammed the pulley against the two studs... which I threaded in so easily with my fingertips, before the pulley moved, I didn't think I needed any way to remove them with tools. I should have taken an extra three minutes to cut a slot into the ends with a cutoff wheel, so I could use a stubby flatblade screwdriver to back them out.

Because of the studs not extending beyond the pulley very far, I couldn't get a grip on the studs to use pliers to back them out. You can't see what you're doing, and there's really no way to hold a mirror while trying to also grab the stud ends with pliers... in any case, I ended up having to use Loctite red (permanent) to screw on two nuts to the ends of the studs, then waited a full 12 hours until the next day for the thread locker to cure, and then removed the studs by using the nuts to back them out with a ratchet wrench.

WHAT I RECOMMEND INSTEAD OF USING TEMPORARY STUDS

What I should have done is applied this tip from LRGM3 on page 3 of this thread:

1) if the crank pulley moves (which mine did) just put a torx bit in the tensioner with a ratchet on it, then wedge it with a pipe on the end towards the intake to hold the belt loose (made it easy to work on after that)

If I'd read this and understood it, I could have easily removed the stuck studs without the permanent loctiting-nuts solution... by using the built-in T60 female torx/star recess in the serpentine belt tensioner arm, you can release all of the tension on the belt, allowing easy repositioning of the pulley. What's not as easy is figuring out a way to secure the 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet wrench in position (needs to be rotated about 30į clockwise) so you can work on the pulley/CBC install with two hands, when you're working by yourself... if you have a helper, than you can just have that person hold the tensioner loose for 45 seconds or however long it takes you to properly position the pulley, the CBC, and then get at least ONE of the VTT-supplied allen-headed bolts threaded in finger-tight, so the pulley can't shift outwards and away from the crank snout.

I think the best strategy is to assume that the pulley will slip/move on you, and to be prepared to use the T60 male star socket + breaker bar technique to release the serpentine belt tension to reposition it... using studs to try to prevent movement didn't work for me, as the pulley slipped outward and then I had to resort to releasing the tensioner anyway to correct the situation.



LAST TIP: DON'T MAKE THIS INCREDIBLY DUMB MISTAKE THAT I'M SUPER-EMBARRASSED TO ADMIT I MADE MYSELF

There's 8 bolts that go into the CBC/OEM crank pulley. Make sure you actually install all eight hex-head bolts/SS washers and torque them all properly BEFORE reinstalling the fan shroud!

Yes, I actually managed to install only SEVEN of the new CBC bolts before getting halfway through reinstalling the fan shroud... and then realizing I'd missed one bolt.

This happened mostly because I'm an idiot and was hurrying and trying to wrap up the job ASAP (as I was a full day behind schedule). BUT, it also occurred because you can't directly see what you're doing (you have to either use your phone on video mode with the flash on, as an "electronic periscope"; or you have to use a mirror tool)... this goes for when you're moving the torque wrench around and torquing each bolt. I couldn't really tell just by feel that there was a bolt head missing... and I didn't think to confirm visually before I started on the shroud reinstallation.

How did I not see the leftover, uninstalled bolt, you ask?? I had put all eight bolts/washers grouped together on my workbench, but one of them rolled away from the group and got partially hidden under another random part that was sitting on the bench... so I installed 7 bolts, looked quickly at my bench and saw no more bolts, and assumed I had installed all of them.

It was a perfect storm of idiocy. DON'T BE AN IDIOT LIKE ME!!!
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      07-27-2020, 03:40 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EGbeater View Post
I suffered through this VTT CBC install this weekend on my '16 M3, and I made a few huge mistakes that made the job much worse than it should have been, so I'd like to share my experience and publicly embarrass myself by revealing what a terrible DIY mechanic I am to potentially save others from my misery.

First off, huge thanks to OP Rotzy for writing this comprehensive install guide and taking all the pictures (with fasteners and clips circled... SO HELPFUL).

Minor details: In steps 1/2, I did not unplug the sensor on the intake tube, as I've in the past managed to break connectors by unplugging them, so I after all the other fasteners and clips on the intake tube were removed, I just flipped it upside-down and laid it on top of the engine cover (the wire to the sensor is long enough to do that). I also didn't remove the engine cover.

I opted to drop the fan shroud down to install the CBC; I tried lifting it up, but I couldn't get as much access to the crank pulley area working from the bottom as I wanted.

Dropping the fan shroud down was frustrating. I have plenty of experience in DIY wrenching on cars, so I'm definitely not a noob to this kind of work, but man, the sharp/hard edges of the FRP shroud biting into your hands and the shroud running into EVERYTHING IN EVERY DIRECTION as you try to manuever it really tries your patience. Even when you have a good idea of what needs to be shifted/flex/bent which way because of Rotzy's outstanding DIY. Just be mentally prepared for this. SERENITY NOW!!!

I ended up having to remove the two star bolts that hold up the plastic support frame that secures the transmission oil cooler (the not-very-tall but full-width heat exchanger) and moved that down to get clearance for the driver's side bottom mounting tab of the fan shroud to move downward.

I moved the fan shroud down a lot to get good clearance/access from above... you can see in my pics how far I dropped it (about 6 3/4" down, measuring the top of the fan shroud to the top of the radiator):





BUT, before you start moving the fan shroud down, you should get a large piece of corrogated cardboard and slip it between the radiator and the passenger-side of the fan shroud to prevent the radiator fins from being smooshed by the passenger-side top hanger "hook" of the fan shroud. I didn't think to do this until *after* I saw I was deforming the radiator fins.



I read on page 4 of this thread where weytie offered this suggestion:

As some people stated the pulley came lose when extracting all the 8 bolts. To prevent this i cut the head of of 2 regular M8 bolts
In this way i could extract the bolts from the pulley and put the 2 cutted bolts on the pulley. Like this the pulley can't shift or fall of.

Then you can just slide the cbc over the cutted bolts and put the rest of the bolts in.At last you take the 2 cutted bolts out and put the new ones in.


So, this seemed like a really smart idea to prevent the pulley from coming loose/shifting position. Logically, it's better to take steps to prevent the pulley from moving than to have to deal with repositioning it, right? Unfortunately, it didn't work for me—the pulley still came loose—and then the studs caused extra problems/headaches. Read on for why, OR you can just skip the next two paragraphs and get to what I eventually had to do and what I recommend instead.

The issue (for me; obviously it worked just fine for weytie and this individual definitely gets credit for thinking of using the temporary locating studs) was that even with two 8 x 1.25 studs inserted in place of the OEM bolts to secure the pulley's location rotationally (i.e., as the hands on a clock move) the pulley still shifted OUTWARDS, away from the engine and toward the radiator, and with the tension on it from the serpentine belt, it immediately got cockeyed and jammed the pulley against the two studs... which I threaded in so easily with my fingertips, before the pulley moved, I didn't think I needed any way to remove them with tools. I should have taken an extra three minutes to cut a slot into the ends with a cutoff wheel, so I could use a stubby flatblade screwdriver to back them out.

Because of the studs not extending beyond the pulley very far, I couldn't get a grip on the studs to use pliers to back them out. You can't see what you're doing, and there's really no way to hold a mirror while trying to also grab the stud ends with pliers... in any case, I ended up having to use Loctite red (permanent) to screw on two nuts to the ends of the studs, then waited a full 12 hours until the next day for the thread locker to cure, and then removed the studs by using the nuts to back them out with a ratchet wrench.

WHAT I RECOMMEND INSTEAD OF USING TEMPORARY STUDS

What I should have done is applied this tip from LRGM3 on page 3 of this thread:

1) if the crank pulley moves (which mine did) just put a torx bit in the tensioner with a ratchet on it, then wedge it with a pipe on the end towards the intake to hold the belt loose (made it easy to work on after that)

If I'd read this and understood it, I could have easily removed the stuck studs without the permanent loctiting-nuts solution... by using the built-in T60 female torx/star recess in the serpentine belt tensioner arm, you can release all of the tension on the belt, allowing easy repositioning of the pulley. What's not as easy is figuring out a way to secure the 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet wrench in position (needs to be rotated about 30° clockwise) so you can work on the pulley/CBC install with two hands, when you're working by yourself... if you have a helper, than you can just have that person hold the tensioner loose for 45 seconds or however long it takes you to properly position the pulley, the CBC, and then get at least ONE of the VTT-supplied allen-headed bolts threaded in finger-tight, so the pulley can't shift outwards and away from the crank snout.

I think the best strategy is to assume that the pulley will slip/move on you, and to be prepared to use the T60 male star socket + breaker bar technique to release the serpentine belt tension to reposition it... using studs to try to prevent movement didn't work for me, as the pulley slipped outward and then I had to resort to releasing the tensioner anyway to correct the situation.



LAST TIP: DON'T MAKE THIS INCREDIBLY DUMB MISTAKE THAT I'M SUPER-EMBARRASSED TO ADMIT I MADE MYSELF

There's 8 bolts that go into the CBC/OEM crank pulley. Make sure you actually install all eight hex-head bolts/SS washers and torque them all properly BEFORE reinstalling the fan shroud!

Yes, I actually managed to install only SEVEN of the new CBC bolts before getting halfway through reinstalling the fan shroud... and then realizing I'd missed one bolt.

This happened mostly because I'm an idiot and was hurrying and trying to wrap up the job ASAP (as I was a full day behind schedule). BUT, it also occurred because you can't directly see what you're doing (you have to either use your phone on video mode with the flash on, as an "electronic periscope"; or you have to use a mirror tool)... this goes for when you're moving the torque wrench around and torquing each bolt. I couldn't really tell just by feel that there was a bolt head missing... and I didn't think to confirm visually before I started on the shroud reinstallation.

How did I not see the leftover, uninstalled bolt, you ask?? I had put all eight bolts/washers grouped together on my workbench, but one of them rolled away from the group and got partially hidden under another random part that was sitting on the bench... so I installed 7 bolts, looked quickly at my bench and saw no more bolts, and assumed I had installed all of them.

It was a perfect storm of idiocy. DON'T BE AN IDIOT LIKE ME!!!
Nice job dude, thanks for all your tips. So it didn't happen to your car that the plate holes are not aligned after put on and ending up torquing the crank bolt?
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      08-17-2020, 07:05 PM   #104
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Quote:
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Nice job dude, thanks for all your tips. So it didn't happen to your car that the plate holes are not aligned after put on and ending up torquing the crank bolt?
For my car, which I just finished up yesterday, the crank bolt capture lined up perfectly and I didn't need to torque anything extra. I'll post my DIY notes. BTW- if you do need some stretch to make things line up, stretch on some of the 8 VTT bolts. DO NOT TORQUE THE CRANK BOLT unless you want to run the risk of messing up the timing and you know what you're doing to re-time the engine. Besides, it's pre-torqued to about 200 so you'd need some tools and probably will not be able to move it unless you lock the crank and cam first.
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      08-17-2020, 07:09 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterYous View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATTES View Post
Nice job dude, thanks for all your tips. So it didn't happen to your car that the plate holes are not aligned after put on and ending up torquing the crank bolt?
For my car, which I just finished up yesterday, the crank bolt capture lined up perfectly and I didn't need to torque anything extra. I'll post my DIY notes. BTW- if you do need some stretch to make things line up, stretch on some of the 8 VTT bolts. DO NOT TORQUE THE CRANK BOLT unless you want to run the risk of messing up the timing and you know what you're doing to re-time the engine. Besides, it's pre-torqued to about 200 so you'd need some tools and probably will not be able to move it unless you lock the crank and cam first.
Thanks! I just got my capture. Recently I checked my bolt while installing a new intake, the alignment should be good, so hopefully I won't have this issue. Would you post your notes here?
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      08-17-2020, 07:25 PM   #106
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Thumbs up

As others have said, thanks so much for this awesome DIY and to everyone who contributed on top of it. With this I was able to get the capture installed relatively easily (fan shroud aside!)

Just going to cover a few things in more detail in case there are people out there who still want to try this (this is the last year for the F8x)

Maneuvering the fan shroud out of the way was BY FAR the most difficult part for me. Hoses and clips and plugs and all that was easy, but then physically moving the fan was practically torture, even after managing to unclip it quickly and easily. The whole CBC install probably took me 5 hours, and fully 2 of them were spent dealing with this darned shroud.

Some notes/tips on the fan shroud piece:


- WEAR MECHANICS GLOVES for this part. You donít need them for much else really unless you like keeping your hands clean.

- a flexible driver shaft that can get into the right places is a godsend. It looks like this:

... and attaches to your drill. You can remove the handle on this DeWalt model to make getting into tight places even easier. A regular cordless driver/drill produces plenty enough torque to handle those small T25 bolts that hold the two plastic shields in place. Thatís 3 bolts for the long shield in MR RIZKís notes that some M cars have, and 2 for the smaller shield at the bottom which all M cars have. In particular, the "long" shield's middle bolt is hard to get to, but with the tool above, it's simple.

- At first I tried to get the shroud up and back to get to the crank pulley from below like Rotzy but I couldnít manage it despite being generally competent at this stuff. There just wasnít enough clearance. So then I removed the oil cooler.

- Removing the oil cooler is really a good step and I recommend it by default if you're doing this for the first time. Not only does it let you clean it, and not only does it get some hoses out of the way making (above) shield removal work easier, but it also allows you to pull the shroud down, because accessing the pulley from the TOP is much much easier. Others have mentioned this too. I really think itís worth it and itís only an extra 3 bolts to remove.

- Dropping the shroud down is no cake walk even with the oil cooler removed. Definitely use the piece of cardboard referenced earlier in the thread and wedge it between your radiator and the shroud BEFORE you try and pull it down. Not only does it protect your radiator, but it will also make sliding the fan down easier due to less friction. Here's a top down picture of my car after the cardboard was in and as I was pushing the shroud down:


- The driverís side folding tab can actually be removed which makes everything much easier. It has two press in hinges for you to reinstall it when reversing the procedure.

- You do not need the fan shroud all the way down to work on the pulley. Hereís a picture of how far I got mine down. (No the car is not being supported by the wood, there are jackstands back there - the wood is a failsafe)


- It took me tons of wiggling to get the fan to drop far enough. The main thing was to move the coolant pump as far out of the way as I could. Free the driverís side of the shroud before the passenger side, because that side has the hard lines which you canít wiggle around; drop it down on that side as far as possible, then drop the passenger side as far down as you can, which will be further than the driverís side, once you get past the pump.

Once at the crank pulley, indeed be patient. I spent a full 90 minutes on OEM bolt removal and CBC installation because I wanted to be absolutely sure the pulley didnít move or fall off - so I took my time and worked slowly. I removed my gloves for this part so I could feel everything precisely. I babied all the bolts - first slightly loosening all 8 of them in kitty-corner (diagonal) fashion with a breaker and then hand loosening and removing the exact same way. I was able to remove all 8 without the pulley budging. I used a small telescoping mirror with a small circular head to know which bolts to target. Here's the crank pulley with all 8 bolts de-torqued but still fully in place:


...and after the bolts were hand removed VERY carefully, everything stayed in place:


Aligning the CBC was surprisingly simple. I rotated it twice to line up with the crank bolt and took a couple pictures to see if the holes lined up. Here is one of those pix:


They did line up - but I wanted to be absolutely sure so I hand-threaded all 8 VTT bolts to make sure there was no stretch needed. I didnít need a mirror for this. Then I removed them again to apply Loc-tite. After I had hand-threaded each coated bolt again, I used the mirror to make sure the hex shaft mated with the socket of the VTT bolts so I could tighten them to 25 ft-lbs. I used a kitty-corner approach on tightening as well. Hereís the completed CBC installation:


A tip on repositioning the shroud - the dark hoses show up great against a light background. Get a light piece of cardboard or several pieces of paper, and put them on the ground under the shroud area. Then put a strong light source down there pointing up and work from the top. You will need to go under a few times to push things past the pump and the hoses. WEAR GLOVES. Take your time and donít force anything so as to not break things or puncture hoses.

A tip on reinstalling the two fan shroud shields: do them before reinstalling the oil cooler and before clipping the oil line and coolant lines back to the subframe or shroud. See above for the tool I used to get to those hard to reach T25s on the second (long) shield.

A tip on reinstalling the skid plate and plastic cooler/bumper shields: position each piece and then hand tighten a few corner bolts before torquing them down and doing the middle ones. This lets you wiggle them around a bit to make sure all holes line up.

That's about all I can think of. Good luck to anyone out there who's still going to try this. Damn I love this car.
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      08-18-2020, 03:52 AM   #107
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MasterYous that fan shroud is a bitch. Great to see others tackling it themselves.

Good work 👍
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      08-18-2020, 03:32 PM   #108
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Such a great write up! Props to VTT for making innovative products and no bmw tax.
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      10-07-2020, 08:06 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotzy View Post
The 17mm bolts on the aluminum engine skid plate were about 28 ft/lbs.
The 13mm bolts holding the carbon strut brace take 21 ft/lbs .
The 10mm bolt for the expansion tank on the strut brace takes 7 ft/lbs.
Where are you guys getting torque specs for OEM nuts, bolts, etc?
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      10-07-2020, 11:10 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demxsr View Post
Where are you guys getting torque specs for OEM nuts, bolts, etc?
The underside skid plate I couldn't find, so I measured the torque when removing the bolts and that's what I reported.

The rest of the numbers came from sites like this:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ody/1VnXqIGOqt
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