Ground Control camber plates

[Flbmwm3]

Without camber plates, on a low car, how much adjustment will oem camber settings let you get it to?

[SD ///M4]

None.

[schnell325]

Originally Posted by Flbmwm3

Without camber plates, on a low car, how much adjustment will oem camber settings let you get it to?

Unlike the E9x M3, there's no pin to pull to add more negative camber

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Flbmwm3

Without camber plates, on a low car, how much adjustment will oem camber settings let you get it to?

Unlike previous M3s, front camber is not adjustable on the F8X chassis in stock form.

[Flbmwm3]

Do you need camber to hit most wheels when lowered in the F80 chassis?
I would think the ADDED positive camber from upper camber hats would be a good thing, no?

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Flbmwm3

Do you need camber to hit most wheels when lowered in the F80 chassis?
I would think the ADDED positive camber from upper camber hats would be a good thing, no?

I could not car less about "stance". For me, adding camber is all about optimizing tire grip/wear at the track.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Flbmwm3

Do you need camber to hit most wheels when lowered in the F80 chassis?
I would think the ADDED positive camber from upper camber hats would be a good thing, no?

What does this even mean? EDIT: I now realize that you probably meant "fit".

How can positive camber ever be a good thing? Do you understand the difference between negative camber and positive camber? Do you understand the role that camber plays in handling?

[Flbmwm3]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

What does this even mean? EDIT: I now realize that you probably meant "fit".

How can positive camber ever be a good thing? Do you understand the difference between negative camber and positive camber? Do you understand the role that camber plays in handling?

LOL of course I understand camber. I may be new here but I have quite a bit of experience. You are right I meant to say fit in post above. Ideally -1.5 to -2.0 degrees of camber is all I'd run on the street. I'm not sure how the OEM settings will be if I lower the front about 1" on coilovers.

If the camber spikes to -2.5 when lowered then I'd add some positive camber to get it to -1.5 to -2.0 for the street. I just couldn't find anyone trying to correct camber only people talking about making their M3 have more negative camber which is mostly overkill.

Having a lot of camber is good for the track but 90% of these cars barely see the track including mine. You sacrifice ride comfort with stanced out shitty -3 or -4 camber that race cars run.

[guidance]

Originally Posted by wakdady

It's all good, thanks for the feedback, it's not like they came with instructions so other peoples experience is sometimes the best instructions.

Had this clunk from new GC Camber plates - Drivers side only.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nDKpxSZWgk

Almost 0.005" slop in Spherical Bearing caused the clunk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VADt...ature=youtu.be

New bearings and carriers & all is quiet.

[M4 CSL]

Originally Posted by larryn

I am at -3deg front, 0 toe, and -2deg rear, also zero toe.

For the street, you have to accept the toe changes due to decreased camber. I run -1.8 in front.

Why do you have to accept it? Isn't it called - Dinan Adjustable toe link kit?

That takes care of the rear. (Mine should be here This week. : )

Undecided on front. My KW CS go in this week, I will start with the Camber plates that come with it, So see if they are enough. However I believe the KW CS ones, don't do Castor? If this becomes a problem, I may switch to GC.

It doesn't look like Vorslag will happen for M4. Its been a year.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by M4 CSL

Why do you have to accept it? Isn't it called - Dinan Adjustable toe link kit?

That takes care of the rear. (Mine should be here This week. : )

Undecided on front. My KW CS go in this week, I will start with the Camber plates that come with it, So see if they are enough. However I believe the KW CS ones, don't do Castor? If this becomes a problem, I may switch to GC.

It doesn't look like Vorslag will happen for M4. Its been a year.

You are missing the point. Toe links are for the rear and OP is talking about front alignment. When changing camber on the fly between street and track setting, toe will change and cannot be easily corrected. So something needs to be compromised.

[M4 CSL]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

You are missing the point. Toe links are for the rear and OP is talking about front alignment. When changing camber on the fly between street and track setting, toe will change and cannot be easily corrected. So something needs to be compromised.

SPL has quite a few for the front, however I think they are having some binding issues, they need to sort out.

[M3Tooner]

Originally Posted by guidance

Had this clunk from new GC Camber plates - Drivers side only.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nDKpxSZWgk

Almost 0.005" slop in Spherical Bearing caused the clunk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VADt...ature=youtu.be

New bearings and carriers & all is quiet.

Thanks for posting this feedback. I am experiencing the same clunks as in your video but not quite as loud. Good to have the video reference to know exactly what it sounds like instead of just saying increased NVH, which can mean SO many different sounds.

I am in contact with GC Systems to resolve this issue. Hopefully new spherical bearings will fix it.

[The Choosey begger]

Originally Posted by guidance

Had this clunk from new GC Camber plates - Drivers side only.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nDKpxSZWgk

Almost 0.005" slop in Spherical Bearing caused the clunk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VADt...ature=youtu.be

New bearings and carriers & all is quiet.

Without spherical bearings since the shock shaft comes at such angle, as you're steering it'll bend the shaft.

I have the spherical bearings on mine and zero clunks. I have a set of spare bearings that i still haven't used.

[RRedline]

So I just picked up a new-to-me 2017 ZCP with about 6k miles. Previous owner had installed the GC camber plates on otherwise stock suspension.

I notice the clunking sound when going slowly over uneven pavement -- e.g. in and out of the driveway, over speedbumps -- no noise when driving like the posted video.

Do all GC camber plates do this?

This car is a DD with no plans to track regularly. Are my choices here to leave alone and deal with the clunk or swap back to stock? I have all the OEM parts.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by RRedline

So I just picked up a new-to-me 2017 ZCP with about 6k miles. Previous owner had installed the GC camber plates on otherwise stock suspension.

I notice the clunking sound when going slowly over uneven pavement -- e.g. in and out of the driveway, over speedbumps -- no noise when driving like the posted video.

Do all GC camber plates do this?

This car is a DD with no plans to track regularly. Are my choices here to leave alone and deal with the clunk or swap back to stock? I have all the OEM parts.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I’d get them checked out. My GC plates make no noise what so ever now. It used to clunk but it was an install issue (a bolt was loose).

[SpiralOut]

I just got some of these and threw them on yesterday. Drives great, no NVH or clunking at all.

Question on the camber. I installed the little orange camber blocks/spacers that came with it and my initial adjustment is just snug right up against those. With those installed about how much camber is that? I do have Spec-R Lowering Springs. Seems to be tons of adjustability left, but visually it actually looks pretty cambered out. I want to get about -2.6 to -2.8.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by SpiralOut

I just got some of these and threw them on yesterday. Drives great, no NVH or clunking at all.

Question on the camber. I installed the little orange camber blocks/spacers that came with it and my initial adjustment is just snug right up against those. With those installed about how much camber is that? I do have Spec-R Lowering Springs. Seems to be tons of adjustability left, but visually it actually looks pretty cambered out. I want to get about -2.6 to -2.8.

Just get it aligned in a "good" alignment shop. No way you can achieve that just fiddling around.

[SpiralOut]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Just get it aligned in a "good" alignment shop. No way you can achieve that just fiddling around.

No doubt, I have an appt setup already for this week. I was really was just trying to get a rough estimate of what the tick marks on the plates mean just so I have an idea in case I do track day adjustments.

[Dr._Who]

Hey,

I'm new to this camber thing.

Please feel free to correct me if I've gotten anything wrong here.

I'm getting very uneven tire wear up front. The outside of these tires is showing it the worse.

I'm only getting the Ground Control plates and maybe the "Dinan" [Edit: No "Hotchkis" - "mild steel" Vs. 4130]
anti sways, for now. The car isn't lowered, nor will I be installing different springs or coil overs.

I've read that with BMW's in general, "camber" is an issue. On the F8x platform, this is no
longer adjustable as it seems to have been in previous series.

I'm overseas. The roads here are crap and I haven't found a decent alignment shop. My local
dealer is good, but I don't have OEM wheels and their alignment kit/set up only allows for
doing alignments with the (4 holes) OEM wheels on.

First off, I need to know:

* The actual Stock Alignment Spec's for a 2017 Competition Package F83.

Again, the dealer cannot tell me this because the "BMW" alignment program only shows the
amount of deviation from stock, but it does not indicate what "stock" actually is. Or, at least
this was what I was told by the Tech.

Once I have this, I will then be in position to request info. as to what the best initial adjustment
for the GC plates would be - Not Lowered / Stock Springs (Street- Light Track) - for me.

Any would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers!

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by Dr._Who

Hey,

I'm new to this camber thing.

Please feel free to correct me if I've gotten anything wrong here.

I'm getting very uneven tire wear up front. The outside of these tires is showing it the worse.

I'm only getting the Ground Control plates and maybe the "Dinan" or "Hotchkis" anti sways,
for now. The car isn't lowered, nor will I be installing different springs or coil overs.

I've read that with BMW's in general, "camber" is an issue. On the F8x platform, this is no
longer adjustable as it seems to have been in previous series.

I'm overseas. The roads here are crap and I haven't found a decent alignment shop. My local
dealer is good, but I don't have OEM wheels and their alignment kit/set up only allows for
doing alignments with the (4 holes) OEM wheels on.

First off, I need to know:

* The actual Stock Alignment Spec's for a 2017 Competition Package F83.

Again, the dealer cannot tell me this because the "BMW" alignment program only shows the
amount of deviation from stock, but it does not indicate what "stock" actually is. Or, at least
this was what I was told by the Tech.

Once I have this, I will then be in position to request info. as to what the best initial adjustment
for the GC plates would be - Not Lowered / Stock Springs (Street- Light Track) - for me.

Any would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers!

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1344670

[Dr._Who]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1344670

Ok., Great!

Thank you!!

Now...

Originally Posted by Dr._Who

Edit: … what [is] the best initial adjustment
for the GC plates... - Not Lowered / Stock Springs (Street- Light Track) - for me.

Any would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!