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      09-20-2015, 04:21 AM   #1
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2015 M4 Rear-ended, frame damage

Hi all,

I was excited to become the new owner of a 2015 M4 three days ago, but then I got rear-ended by a teenager at about 30mph The ramming car was an SUV so the impact area was between the top of the rear bumper and trunk. Photos of the damage are below. With the frame bent, the trunk no longer wants to close since the trunk latch is about a 1/2" offset from the hook. What's the chance of this car being totaled?





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      09-20-2015, 06:57 AM   #2
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Oh that sucks. I doubt write off but definitely no expert.
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      09-20-2015, 12:16 PM   #3
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Oh my, that's hard to see. I bet you're not sleeping. I hope this works out for you. Obviously a total so you can start over would be relieving. I will keep my fingers crossed for you.

Keep us posted.
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      09-20-2015, 02:28 PM   #4
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Ouch! Sorry to hear about your accident.

I would take it to a certified BMW collision repair shop and have them evaluate the loss, if you haven't done so already. Insurance company will most likely take the route that is cheapest for them to fix. Don't settle if the car cannot be restored to pre-accident condition.

As far as frame damage, did you notice if any panels shifted?

Good luck, and I hope you get your M4 back up and running soon!
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      09-20-2015, 02:32 PM   #5
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Washington strikes again. I'm sorry this happened to you op.
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      09-20-2015, 03:00 PM   #6
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I am currently following automotive body repair training so I am not an expert but what we have learned is that cars are only total loss when the repair costs are higher than the value of the car the day after the accident minus the highest bid given for the car wreckage. These rules are not the same in all countries nor for all insurance companies. This is called economic total loss.

Then there is technical total loss. What happens when the car can no longer be repaired. If in this case the unibody is damaged too much the car is still a total loss.

If this would happen to my new car I hope that the insurance company says it is a total loss. But to be honest looking at these photos I doubt its a total loss.

An expert will measure the geometry of the unibody (structural analysis) using control and reference points and there is a small tolerance of I think 6 milimeters from the manufacturers dimensions, unless the manufacturer itself specifies a different tolerance. When the dimensions of the car after the accident are outside this tolerance the car would be a technical total loss in Belgium as the suspension, steering, ... are affected.

Last edited by G4BR13L; 09-20-2015 at 03:22 PM..
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      09-20-2015, 03:46 PM   #7
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If the frame is bent its likely a write off. I wouldn't want it back after that.
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      09-20-2015, 05:39 PM   #8
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They aren't going to total that. That is about $10-15K worth of damage.
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      09-20-2015, 06:06 PM   #9
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Yeah I didn't think so, TJ

I'm going to fight for diminished value money and sell the car after it gets repaired.

Thanks for all your concern and tips! I'll keep this thread updated.
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      09-20-2015, 06:09 PM   #10
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I keep telling this to all of people who needs body work.

Go to BMW Certified Collusion Center. Then after, worry about everything else. I think you're dealership might be able to help you, then find that little bastard and sue his ass. (aka serve him and get him to pay for all the damages.)
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      09-20-2015, 06:11 PM   #11
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I've already been referred to a BMW certified collision center, I'll bring it there. Thanks
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      09-20-2015, 06:24 PM   #12
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I've already been referred to a BMW certified collision center, I'll bring it there. Thanks


Good luck!
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      09-21-2015, 12:34 AM   #13
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I am not referring you to any body shop. I will say that RNR in Bellevue did great work for me when I had some much lighter parking spot damage to the rear bumper cover and to my friends 335ix msport being hit by a van going 30 and the 335ix stopped. First, you are not going to have your car for 3-4 weeks.
Second, there is "frame damage" which usually mean putting the car on the rack, and then there is ancillary frame damage where connecting pieces are bent but the tracking of the car is not out of whack.

To me, from the pics, I'd say you have $8-12k worth of damage (potentially up-to about $15k). A total guess. If the exhaust is bent (and you won't be able to really tell until I it is up in the air) you at the 12k range. If the trunk if fixable and the exhaust is unharmed, you might be as low as $8k.

It mostly depends on the cross member you show as bent. It depends on that cost and anything else. If you truly have frame damage the car has to be put on a rack and re-adjusted. add a couple more thousand.

I'll be honest, I don't think at the speed you got hit that you have any "frame" damage and again, wildly guessing. I mean, and to be clear, damage in which alters the geometry of the frame itself and therefore the car does not track 100%. If you do actually have it, and nobody will know until the car is stripped and measured, it most likely can be fixed.

It is unlikely your car will be "totaled" and it is unlikely if fixed properly that you will have any issue. You probably don't want it totaled anyway as it is unlikely the other person enough insurance to cover a $90k (with tax) car. State minimum is $10k. You should of course have uninsured coverage that will cover your car but that's your insurance company. It might be the person owns a house etc. and has an umbrella insurance policy (if he is smart), or if a teen, and the car is in the parents name, they might have quality coverage or extra insurance. If not, and you don't have $90k in uninsured, and the car is totaled, you will only be paid out whatever their max is.

A polite suggestion is that if the police showed up or there was any "state" paperwork, companies like carfax request that information and then put that in the history of your car on their site. Take many pictures, ask for pictures when they fix it, keep all of the estimates and paperwork. When you sell it, people will want to know the extent. This honestly, as far as a debilitating wreck, is one of the better ones or rather, easier ones to fix.

Also, you will may want to negotiate a "diminished value" with the other persons insurance (assuming it is the other persons fault, and rear ends, usually are).

If you want a number for someone who can provide a quote for this, I can refer you to someone I have never used. He charges $400ish. I'd guess the diminished value for your car is somewhere around 3-5k but maybe upwards a bit.

Because with the wreck and companies like carfax reporting this info, the car is worth less as you will have to sell it for less when you go to sell it. You should be paid for this loss by the Insurance company representing the person at fault. Note, I am not a lawyer, this is not legal advice.

If you fix the car and then want to immediately sell it, you do have to divulge the wreck history is someone asks. If you sell the car and they ask if it has been in a wreck and you say no, you may have liabilities you may not realize. Get the diminished value and sell it appropriately. I wouldn't sell it but that's me, and I understand the mental issues with having a wreck but if you really sat down and looked at what is broken and how they fix it, you will find it will be fine (from a quality shop).

If any parts are damaged that you want to replace, you may be able to get a better BMW part and pay the difference. Example if the exhaust is bent and it's say $1700, you might be able to get the MPE (and pay the difference). This is up to you and the body shop.

Oh, and BTW, sorry about your accident hopefully you are ok, your neck and back etc. Any even weird feeling or headache should be looked at. A friend just had an accident and a week later she has some neck pain. She is now in a neck brace as required by her doctor as her C1 is dangerously out of place, she had no idea.

Also, love the color of your M4!
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Last edited by schnazzy; 09-21-2015 at 12:55 AM..
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      09-21-2015, 02:10 AM   #14
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Thanks schnazzy! RNR is actually where I plan on bringing it. It's good to hear that you and your friend had good experiences there.

There happened to be a police car at the intersection where the accident occurred. I believe he pulled up to the intersection right after it had occurred, so I waved him down. There is a case number for the accident and the teenager was given a citation for inattentive driving. For being only 17, this is really going to drive up her insurance rates.

I plan on getting an appraiser to take a look at the car after it has been repaired and have been referred to Harber Appraisal in Tacoma. If you have another suggestion, I will gladly consider your referral for diminished value appraising.

I will also consider upgrading broken parts and pay the difference. Thanks for the suggestion

Luckily I got my loan with gap protection just two days before the accident, which is why I would be OK with it being totaled.

I appreciate all the tips and the time you took to write all of that up. I just recently returned to Bimmerpost and am glad that there's still a friendly and helpful community here. Thanks!
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      09-21-2015, 02:25 AM   #15
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It's hilarious that in my country you can't get a license before hitting 18, and the drivers ed is seriously hard. Here 17year olds destroy beauties while texting.
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      09-21-2015, 03:03 AM   #16
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No way that's totaled. 15k repair. This literally just happened to me a few months ago.
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      09-21-2015, 11:24 AM   #17
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I recall a thread by a forum member here on Bimmerpost on the same topic but the car was a 911....

The incident seemed small (fender bender) - but a closer inspection reflected significant frame damage that was only revealed after an extensive inspection....and considerable costs...

Sorry to hear and see this...good luck...
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      09-21-2015, 11:27 AM   #18
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TWiTCHY,

I did make a comment that I'd like to slightly change. If the teen's insurance is the state minimum and yours was too, then you'd only get the minimum. I was making the statement as if you paid cash for the car and didn't bump up your insurance. If you got a loan on your car, it has to cover the replacement value so you would be covered and with GAP and uninsured in some mixture, it would be 100% covered.

You are probably fine all around. It will take about a week to get the adjuster out there, have preliminary review, and an initial quote agreed to by the insurer. Then, from what I saw, another 1-2 weeks for parts, and a week to fix (at most).

Also, if you can, work with Rick at RNR, I am sure everyone else is fine but I was quite happy the first time I met him, he was wearing a ///M hat. He is very laid back.
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      09-21-2015, 11:35 AM   #19
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schnazzy - GAP is optional if I am not mistaken on auto loans....
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      09-21-2015, 11:49 AM   #20
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Twitchy,

So sorry to see this. I cant recommend RnR enough, they do terrific work and they use TruLine across the street for any alignment or frame damage. Was this by chance the M4 sold out of Seattle Jaguar? I was looking at this car about to pull the trigger when you bought it. So sorry to see that. Good Luck.
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      09-21-2015, 12:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Twitchy,

So sorry to see this. I cant recommend RnR enough, they do terrific work and they use TruLine across the street for any alignment or frame damage. Was this by chance the M4 sold out of Seattle Jaguar? I was looking at this car about to pull the trigger when you bought it. So sorry to see that. Good Luck.
It is! Shit, sorry man do you want it now?

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schnazzy - GAP is optional if I am not mistaken on auto loans....
At my credit union, they charged me under $300 for GAP protection. Worth it!

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TWiTCHY,

I did make a comment that I'd like to slightly change. If the teen's insurance is the state minimum and yours was too, then you'd only get the minimum. I was making the statement as if you paid cash for the car and didn't bump up your insurance. If you got a loan on your car, it has to cover the replacement value so you would be covered and with GAP and uninsured in some mixture, it would be 100% covered.

You are probably fine all around. It will take about a week to get the adjuster out there, have preliminary review, and an initial quote agreed to by the insurer. Then, from what I saw, another 1-2 weeks for parts, and a week to fix (at most).

Also, if you can, work with Rick at RNR, I am sure everyone else is fine but I was quite happy the first time I met him, he was wearing a ///M hat. He is very laid back.
Yeah, I got a loan and was offered GAP protection. Seemed like a no-brainer to me, so I included it.

I'll ask for Rick today when I go down there to drop off the car.

And to make matters slightly worse, the tires were near bald when I purchased the car. Do you know if RNR does tire installation, too?

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      09-21-2015, 12:22 PM   #22
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That's Ok Ill pass, I did drive it though. Really sorry to see this it was a nice car for the money, Was still negotiating price with them but passed on their last offer, They were still working the numbers when you came in. I really hope you can get it all fixed.
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