DIY Guide: How To Install Lowering Springs (F80 M3/F82 M4)

[suspenceful]

I can't stand the wheel gap these cars have from the factory, especially in the front. So I combed through forums and Facebook groups to find the best way to lower my F80 M3.

My goal: eliminate wheel gap and retain comfortable ride quality without spending thousands of dollars.

I narrowed it down to Emmanuele Design lowering springs. I could go on and on about why I bought these lowering springs instead of others, or even coilovers. But I don't want to clutter up this DIY thread, so I wrote a dedicated blog post about them: The Best Lowering Springs for BMW F8X: EMD Auto Review.

Brief summary:

• Ride quality remains the same or better than stock.
• Compatible with both standard and adaptive suspension.
• Engineered specifically for stock shocks to avoid premature failure.
• Perfect stance, lowering the front 1.3″ and the rear 0.3 – 0.9″.
• Linear spring rate, similar to stock springs.
• Made in the USA.
• Affordable at $300-350!

Alright, now let me show you the best way to install lowering springs! The process was way easier than I thought... so easy that most of you could do it at home. I took photos and video of the whole process and created a comprehensive installation guide.

If you don't want to watch the video above, check out my comprehensive step-by-step guide with photos: How To Install Lowering Springs in Your BMW F80 M3 or F82 M4

REQUIRED TOOLS:

• 18mm BMW strut nut socket
• 17mm BMW wheel-saver socket
• Small 10mm angled wrench
• Trim removal tool set
• Torque wrench (1/2″, 10-150 ft/lbs)
• Impact wrench (1/2″)
• Ratchet wrench (1/2″)
• 10-24mm socket set (1/2″) (*21mm, 16mm, 10mm)
• 8-22mm wrench set (*21mm, 9mm)
• T10-T50 star key wrench set (*T30)
• 6-12mm nut driver set (*10mm)
• Screwdriver set
• Low-profile floor jack
• Jack stands
• BMW jack pad adapters

TORQUE SPECS:

• Lug bolts for M3 - 105 ft.lbs.

Front:

• Plastic cowl bolts - 10mm - 1/4 turn
• Strut top nut - 18mm-12pt - 25 ft.lbs.
• Sway bar end link - 16mm/T30 - 44 ft.lbs.
• Headlight-leveling sensor - 10mm - Snug

Rear:

• Spring arm bolt - 21mm/18mm - 74 ft.lbs.
• Headlight-leveling sensor - 10mm - Snug

First things first!

Start by using a low-pro floor jack, QuickJack floor lift or MaxJax 2-post lift to raise the car off the ground. I have experience with all three of these lifting methods and would recommend each of them depending on your situation. Use BMW jack pad adapters no matter which lifting method you choose. Be sure to properly secure the car with jack stands if not using a lift. For this install, I'll be using a 2-post lift.

With the car in the air, use a 1/2" cordless impact wrench with a 17mm BMW wheel-saver socket to remove the lug bolts. Carefully remove each wheel from your BMW M3 or M4 and set aside.

Let's start with the front suspension

Before installing our new lowering springs, we need to remove the OEM springs first. Start in the front by opening the hood and removing the rubber top-hat cover and plastic cowl on each side.



To remove the rubber top-hat cover, use a trim removal tool to un-clip six plastic push rivets (red arrows). Use a 10mm nut driver to loosen the plastic nuts (green arrows). Be careful not to break these nuts, they only require a 1/4 turn to loosen.

With the main top-hat cover and plastic cowl removed, you should see a smaller rubber cover directly on top of the strut top. Remove this with a plastic pry tool. If you have adaptive suspension, pop off the electric connector on top of the strut.



At this point, we're going to go back under the car and use a jack to compress the suspension on this corner. Lift the control arm until the suspension is completely compressed and on the verge of lifting the corner of the vehicle from your lift arm or jack stand.



Front spring removal

With the suspension compressed, we need to remove the sway bar end link, unplug the adaptive suspension sensor (if applicable), disconnect the headlight-leveling sensor (driver-side only), and unclip wires for the brake pad sensor and wheel speed sensor.



Disconnect the sway bar end link by removing the nut with a 16mm socket and impact wrench, or by using a 16mm wrench on the nut while holding the threads with a T30 torx wrench.

Remove the driver's side headlight-leveling sensor by loosening the nut with a 10mm socket. Be sure to hold the joint of the headlight-leveling sensor with a 9mm wrench while loosening the nut (not pictured, reference video at the top of this post).

With all of the above items disconnected and the floor jack still compressing the suspension, let's head back up to the engine bay. Use a deep 12-point 18mm socket or the strut nut socket with the impact wrench to remove the nut on the top of the strut.



Once the nut is removed, slowly lower the floor jack to naturally decompress the spring and free the strut. Carefully pull the strut and spring outside of the fender well to remove the OEM spring, dust boot and bump stop.







Install front lowering springs

Replace the OEM spring with one of your front EMD lowering springs. Re-use the dust boot and bump stop. Ensure the spring is properly seated on the strut, then re-insert the strut into the top hat.



Jack up the control arm to compress the suspension again, while guiding it into the top hat. Use a torque wrench with a specialty 18mm strut nut socket and small 10mm wrench to tighten the 18mm nut on the top of the strut to 25 ft/lbs.



Re-install the sway bar end link and tighten the 16mm nut to 44 ft/lbs. Then connect the adaptive suspension sensor, headlight-leveling sensor and other previously-removed wires. In the engine bay, plug in the adaptive suspension sensor and install the rubber dust caps and plastic cowl.

Re-inspect the whole area, making sure everything is connected and all nuts are tight. You've successfully completed the first corner! Repeat the same process on the other front side.

Remove OEM rear springs

Get started in the rear by supporting the spring arm with a jack, compressing the suspension. You can see the tall adjustable jack stand we used, but you can use a floor jack if you don't have a lift.



Use a 21mm socket and the impact wrench to remove the inner spring arm bolt, hold the nut on the backside with a 21mm wrench if needed. On the driver's side, there is another headlight-leveling sensor that needs to be removed. To do that, remove the nut with a 10mm socket while holding the joint with a 9mm wrench.



With the bolt removed, lower the jack to naturally decompress the spring, then pull the spring arm down to remove the OEM spring. Before installing your new springs, pay attention to the instructions for your lowering springs. In my case, EMD lowering springs include a spacer that can be inserted on top of the upper spring cup for a less aggressive drop.



To install spacers, use a pry tool to remove the metal upper spring cup. Insert the spacer on top of the cup and re-install the cup into the chassis of the car. Other lowering spring kits like Macht Schnell include two spacers for each spring, one that goes on top of the cup and another that goes inside of the cup. Not all lowering spring kits include spacers, so pay attention to what is included with your lowering springs.



Install rear lowering springs

Install the necessary spacers (if applicable), then replace the stock springs with your new lowering springs. Re-use the rubber spring isolators from the top and bottom of your stock springs. After transferring them over, insert your new spring into the spring cup and seat it in the bottom of the spring arm.



Use the jack to lift the spring arm until you can re-insert the 21mm bolt into the spring arm. Once the bolt and nut are hand-tight, use the jack to compress the suspension. Once compressed, use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 120 ft/lbs. Re-connect the headlight-leveling sensor on the driver's side.



Just like you did after completing the front, inspect the whole are. Make sure the spring is seated properly and all nuts are tight. Repeat the same process on the other rear side.



Re-install your wheels and tighten lug bolts to 105 ft/lbs with the 17mm wheel-saver socket and torque wrench. Lower the car back onto the ground and admire your freshly installed lowering springs!

As with any suspension adjustment or modification, a 4-wheel alignment is necessary. If you don't get an alignment, you risk poor handling or uneven tire wear.



Enjoy a few photos of my 2015 BMW M3 after installing Emmanuele Design lowering springs!







Let me know what you think ��

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[BzsBimmer]

Excellent write up!

[aswy6]

Thank you for the great write up! Can you please expand on what do you mean by "The best"? The reason why im asking is because i was about to get Swift Spec R springs but starting to reconsider my choice. My main question is how would these perform on track and how do they compare to Swift in track conditions?

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

Excellent write up!

Thank you!

Originally Posted by aswy6

Thank you for the great write up! Can you please expand on what do you mean by "The best"? The reason why im asking is because i was about to get Swift Spec R springs but starting to reconsider my choice. My main question is how would these perform on track and how do they compare to Swift in track conditions?

I prioritized how the car rode over track performance when deciding which springs to get. I wanted something that remained comfortable, similar to the stock suspension. The EMD springs are designed to be used with the stock shocks and struts and have a spring rate that is ever so slightly stiffer than the stock springs. After installing them and driving on them for a while now, I can confidently say they exceeded my expectations.

I have not driven this car on the track yet and haven't pushed it to it's aboslute limits in corners. But if that is your goal, I don't think a spring-only option is for you. You should be looking at a set of KW coilovers or their HAS kit at minimum if you're on a budget. This is all just my opinion, but I'm happy to help answer any other questions you have!

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

Thank you!

I prioritized how the car rode over track performance when deciding which springs to get. I wanted something that remained comfortable, similar to the stock suspension. The EMD springs are designed to be used with the stock shocks and struts and have a spring rate that is ever so slightly stiffer than the stock springs. After installing them and driving on them for a while now, I can confidently say they exceeded my expectations.

I have not driven this car on the track yet and haven't pushed it to it's aboslute limits in corners. But if that is your goal, I don't think a spring-only option is for you. You should be looking at a set of KW coilovers or their HAS kit at minimum if you're on a budget. This is all just my opinion, but I'm happy to help answer any other questions you have!

Yeah i dont want to throw money at coilovers before i get good on track. Im installing camber plates and was thinking to throw springs in there while at it. So basically, should i expect an improvement in handling with these springs?

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Yeah i dont want to throw money at coilovers before i get good on track. Im installing camber plates and was thinking to throw springs in there while at it. So basically, should i expect an improvement in handling with these springs?

I would say so. It really depends on what you define as an "improvement in handling". EMD, Swift and OEM springs are all linear rate. No matter how much body roll or weight transfer happens (think diving into a corner), the spring rate will stay the same. If you got springs with a progressive rate, you might notice more of a difference in handling.

Your turning efficiency won't be affected much by either spring. Swift will be stiffer than EMD. EMD will be stiffer than stock. Depends how stiff/soft you want your suspension to be over bumps and elevation changes on the track. Do you want to absorb suspension compression? Encourage weight transfer? Or do you want something that rides like it's on rails?

Front spring rates:

• Stock spring rate: 186 lb/in
• EMD spring rate: 194 lb/in
• Swift spring rate: 268 lb/in

Rear spring rates:

• Stock spring rate: 608 lb/in
• EMD spring rate: 645 lb/in
• Swift spring rate: 716 lb/in

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

I would say so. It really depends on what you define as an "improvement in handling". EMD, Swift and OEM springs are all linear rate. No matter how much body roll or weight transfer happens (think diving into a corner), the spring rate will stay the same. If you got springs with a progressive rate, you might notice more of a difference in handling.

Your turning efficiency won't be affected much by either spring. Swift will be stiffer than EMD. EMD will be stiffer than stock. Depends how stiff/soft you want your suspension to be over bumps and elevation changes on the track. Do you want to absorb suspension compression? Encourage weight transfer? Or do you want something that rides like it's on rails?

Front spring rates:

• Stock spring rate: 186 lb/in
• EMD spring rate: 194 lb/in
• Swift spring rate: 268 lb/in

Rear spring rates:

• Stock spring rate: 608 lb/in
• EMD spring rate: 645 lb/in
• Swift spring rate: 716 lb/in

Thank you very much for very informative response. I think Swift are progressive but might be wrong. And looks like they are quiet a bit stiffer in front. Man i might be overthinking and should just pull the trigger on EDM and get good before making a jump to coils if i still have the car

[swagon]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Thank you very much for very informative response. I think Swift are progressive but might be wrong. And looks like they are quiet a bit stiffer in front. Man i might be overthinking and should just pull the trigger on EDM and get good before making a jump to coils if i still have the car

Most reviews you read on springs are made straight after install. If you search deep enough, you will stumble upon people saying that the car now rides like shit. Hell, read OP's other thread, lol.

I'd skip all these rather no-name brands and go for M Performance HAS if you got EDC.

[Tommi_Mav]

great DIY post, thank you!!!!

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by swagon

Most reviews you read on springs are made straight after install. If you search deep enough, you will stumble upon people saying that the car now rides like shit. Hell, read OP's other thread, lol.

I'd skip all these rather no-name brands and go for M Performance HAS if you got EDC.

To be fair, that is the first negative comment I've ever seen on these EMD springs. I found zero negative feedback on this forum and many F80 Facebook groups when researching EMD springs before purchase. I have two friends running these springs on their F80s with many miles and no issues or blown dampers.

Maybe that guy bought the car with EMD springs, or they're improperly installed? Not sure, anything is possible. But again, I have no iron in the fire with any of these companies and am just reporting on my experience.

No doubt, KW HAS and M Performance HAS are both great options.

[parabmw]

Why don't the mp has cause the same stress on shock like other lowering springs like eibach?
If they are lowered the same amount wouldn't they be the same effect?
Also how do the modified bump stops help?

[RRedline]

Did this job last weekend...was as easy as it looks and only took a couple hours.

Only thing I would add is that you need to be careful to ensure the the upper end of the dustboot remains aligned when reassembling. Despite being very careful, I somehow missed that the boot on the driver side misaligned which caused a groaning sound as soon as I backed out of the driveway.

I had to disassemble and redo the drivers side to fix it -- fortunately, the boot did not tear.

[parabmw]

I've read that the bmw instructions call for an impact gun for top strut but.

[BzsBimmer]

Originally Posted by parabmw

I've read that the bmw instructions call for an impact gun for top strut but.

If they do, it’s not on the BMW TIS I just looked at. No mention of impact wrench anywhere for loosing or fastening.

My instruction sheet for my Bilstein suspension state to not use an impact.

[audioMeth]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

Remove OEM rear springs

Get started in the rear by supporting the spring arm with a jack, compressing the suspension. You can see the tall adjustable jack stand we used, but you can use a floor jack if you don't have a lift.



Use a 21mm socket and the impact wrench to remove the inner spring arm bolt, hold the nut on the backside with a 21mm wrench if needed. On the driver's side, there is another headlight-leveling sensor that needs to be removed. To do that, remove the nut with a 10mm socket while holding the joint with a 9mm wrench.



With the bolt removed, lower the jack to naturally decompress the spring, then pull the spring arm down to remove the OEM spring. Before installing your new springs, pay attention to the instructions for your lowering springs. In my case, EMD lowering springs include a spacer that can be inserted on top of the upper spring cup for a less aggressive drop.

can the rear strut be dropped by using this method? most remove the camber bolt.

[EGbeater]

Thanks very much for this DIY!

Minor typo... in the text, the size of the star bit needed to hold the swaybar endlink from spinning is stated as T40 when it's actually T30... it's correct in your listing tools:

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by EGbeater

Thanks very much for this DIY!

Minor typo... in the text, the size of the star bit needed to hold the swaybar endlink from spinning is stated as T40 when it's actually T30... it's correct in your listing tools:

Updated! Thanks for letting me know.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by audioMeth

can the rear strut be dropped by using this method? most remove the camber bolt.

I do not think so, you have to undo the lower arm at the camber bolt location to get it to drop enough.....

[audioMeth]

Originally Posted by horsepower_and_hounds

I do not think so, you have to undo the lower arm at the camber bolt location to get it to drop enough.....

for those interested.

it can, i removed my rear struts/shocks by removing the lower strut bolt and nut and the 3 etorx at the top.

[sly1types]

Hey suspenceful do you know if the spring arm bolt torque is 74ftlbs or 120ftlbs?

Great write up! Thanks

[audioMeth]

Originally Posted by sly1types

Hey suspenceful do you know if the spring arm bolt torque is 74ftlbs or 120ftlbs?

Great write up! Thanks

165nm

[Sahbatage]

can anyone help me. I'm using an 1/2 impact gun with 18mm 12point socket to undo the center strut bolt, but can't loosen the nut and I feel like it's just spinning. What am I missing!?