Installing an Essex AP Racing 9668 Kit... So much drool!

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by CRRobert

Think he is running STOCK rear calipers

Ok. I did not read the entire thread.

[jacobe92]

Cool and crazy video. 👍

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by FlyingLow78

I ran a couple 25-minute sessions at Monza yesterday and my brake cooling package for next year is set.

Front: AP Racing 9660 with Ferodo DTC-70 pads, Yperion titanium shims, and 3D-printed scoops feeding the center of the rotors through 2.5” hose.

Rear: Stock calipers with Ferodo DS2500 pads, Porsche 911 GT3 front scoops installed on the rear arms feeding air directly at the calipers, and a 2” hose scooping air under the spring for the side of the rotor. In hotter temps I think the piston dust boots might still be at risk, so I have Yperion shims for the rear as well (if they ever show up).

I installed temperature strips on all four calipers and went bombing around Monza. Air temperatures were around 8 Celsius and the lowest brake temperature indicator (370 degrees Fahrenheit) didn’t even pop. We will see how well they cope next summer, but so far I’m feeling good.

Brakes in action:

If the weather cooperates I’m going to hit Mugello next weekend with no front cooling scoops to see how the brakes tolerate it. So far the forecast is calling for rain, though.

Love that brake image capture/video, Please share your mounting set up?

[FlyingLow78]

Originally Posted by fanatic1

Love that brake image capture/video, Please share your mounting set up?

The Go Pro camera is mounted to the standard “flat” mount that comes with adhesive backing. For security, I removed the adhesive and drilled a pair of countersunk holes in the mount so I could rivet it to the plastic splash guard in the wheel arch. The splash guard is really soft plastic and easily removed for drilling. I backed the rivets with a small aluminum plate made of leftover pieces of my stock brake shields. It’s a mount/splash guard/aluminum plate sandwich with two rivets holding it together. I even ran a USB cable from the cabin, along the fender, and into the wheel arch. This allows me to leave the camera on all day without killing its battery and under the control of my phone since it’s hard to access to start/stop recording.

The final product can easily be permanently mounted anywhere in the wheel arch. I experimented with several different locations, but there’s not much room left with really wide tires and brake cooling hoses taking up space and blocking the view. Considerations also have to be made for rocks being thrown, which already shattered the screen on a camera I had behind the rear wheels.

[Spun Crankhub]

Originally Posted by FlyingLow78

I ran a couple 25-minute sessions at Monza yesterday and my brake cooling package for next year is set.

Front: AP Racing 9660 with Ferodo DTC-70 pads, Yperion titanium shims, and 3D-printed scoops feeding the center of the rotors through 2.5” hose.

Rear: Stock calipers with Ferodo DS2500 pads, Porsche 911 GT3 front scoops installed on the rear arms feeding air directly at the calipers, and a 2” hose scooping air under the spring for the side of the rotor. In hotter temps I think the piston dust boots might still be at risk, so I have Yperion shims for the rear as well (if they ever show up).

I installed temperature strips on all four calipers and went bombing around Monza. Air temperatures were around 8 Celsius and the lowest brake temperature indicator (370 degrees Fahrenheit) didn’t even pop. We will see how well they cope next summer, but so far I’m feeling good.

Brakes in action:

If the weather cooperates I’m going to hit Mugello next weekend with no front cooling scoops to see how the brakes tolerate it. So far the forecast is calling for rain, though.

That is incredible, well done!

[Jockey]

Probably the coolest video I've seen posted on this forum!

[bimmerboyE92]

Joined the BBK gang with 9668/9449 with DSUNO pads. The factory 18” 513M rims fit. I’m running 12mm spacers in front but likely a 5mm would suffice... but not for sure.

One question. I bled with a Motiv Pressure bleeder twice and then went back around a third time the old fashion way with my wife in the seat per Essex’s install instructions. I’ve only driven it 3ft back and forth in the garage. I feel as if there is more “take-up” than the stock setup. Will this go away after bedding in the pads? What I mean is the pedal travels a bit more before the pads hit the rotors... once that happens, it’s very firm, more firm than stock, in the brake pedal world I’d say rock hard.

[FlyingLow78]

Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92

Joined the BBK gang with 9668/9449 with DSUNO pads. The factory 18” 513M rims fit. I’m running 12mm spacers in front but likely a 5mm would suffice... but not for sure.

One question. I bled with a Motiv Pressure bleeder twice and then went back around a third time the old fashion way with my wife in the seat per Essex’s install instructions. I’ve only driven it 3ft back and forth in the garage. I feel as if there is more “take-up” than the stock setup. Will this go away after bedding in the pads? What I mean is the pedal travels a bit more before the pads hit the rotors... once that happens, it’s very firm, more firm than stock, in the brake pedal world I’d say rock hard.

I had the same feeling after bleeding mine with a Motiv bleeder. I thought I had air in the lines, so I bought a suction bleeder like what I use at the shop and it made no difference. Five track days later, I’m 100% confident the system has no air, and the pedal travel is a normal characteristic of the calipers.

[bimmerboyE92]

Originally Posted by FlyingLow78

I had the same feeling after bleeding mine with a Motiv bleeder. I thought I had air in the lines, so I bought a suction bleeder like what I use at the shop and it made no difference. Five track days later, I’m 100% confident the system has no air, and the pedal travel is a normal characteristic of the calipers.

Is this everyone else’s experience as well? After sitting for a day, engine in the off position, the first press of the pedal needs almost no effort until the pedal is at the same height at the accelerator where it becomes rock hard. Then the second press builds up pressure where there is some resistance until just slight below the accelerator.

I think I’m mostly concerned with the “low” pedal. This happens in my e36 because of pad taper.

[F3IGHTY]

Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92

Is this everyone else’s experience as well? After sitting for a day, engine in the off position, the first press of the pedal needs almost no effort until the pedal is at the same height at the accelerator where it becomes rock hard. Then the second press builds up pressure where there is some resistance until just slight below the accelerator.

I think I’m mostly concerned with the “low” pedal. This happens in my e36 because of pad taper.

Mine is not like that, maybe a tiny bit of take up at the top and then solid.

[FlyingLow78]

Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92

Is this everyone else’s experience as well? After sitting for a day, engine in the off position, the first press of the pedal needs almost no effort until the pedal is at the same height at the accelerator where it becomes rock hard. Then the second press builds up pressure where there is some resistance until just slight below the accelerator.

I think I’m mostly concerned with the “low” pedal. This happens in my e36 because of pad taper.

Don’t worry about it too much until after you’ve bedded the pads in. Drive it for a bit, then see how you feel. I swore up and down that I still had air in the system, but almost a litre of fluid later, the pedal is still exactly the same.

[RSXDC5]

Really hoping this hasn’t been overlooked...Are you guys are tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet during the bleed process?

[bimmerboyE92]

No, I did not. I plan to drive this thing once the weather gets a bit nicer and bleed again. This time using the hammer tap technique as well.

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

Really hoping this hasn’t been overlooked...Are you guys are tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet during the bleed process?

[FlyingLow78]

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

Really hoping this hasn’t been overlooked...Are you guys are tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet during the bleed process?

I definitely smacked the crap out of mine during the bleed.

[ninekrpm]

resurrecting this thread for some feedback form existing users of the kit...

how many of you are using the kit on your street or street/track car?

how is the performance on the street?

how many miles have you driven on the street vs track (days) with the kit? granted, the real use, benefit and abuse is on the track.

what pads are you using?

and, what is the life of the rotors? any excessive wear from street use?

appreciate everyone feedback, thanks...

[bimmerboyE92]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

resurrecting this thread for some feedback form existing users of the kit...

how many of you are using the kit on your street or street/track car?

how is the performance on the street?

how many miles have you driven on the street vs track (days) with the kit? granted, the real use, benefit and abuse is on the track.

what pads are you using?

and, what is the life of the rotors? any excessive wear from street use?

appreciate everyone feedback, thanks...

Using Ferodo DSUNO pads. I believe these would be a complete waste on the street. In fact, I had previously complained about pedal feel being a bit low. But that was in the middle of winter on the street. Now that I’ve had it out 1 track day, the pedal feels great once heated up. Might be a different experience with a street pad loaded in.

The most disturbing thing is that you will actually hear the pads rattle in the calipers over cracks and joints on the street. Apply a little pedal pressure and they are silent. Don’t notice it on track... maybe because of heat expansion?

From a cosmetic point, the calipers are kinda bland and the plain white lettering is a little “dated”.

For a serious track brake system, this is it! For the street, custom color your stock calipers and use a ceramic pad! Are the stock brakes not cutting it for street use? Change pads and get different tires first.

[adc]

Do these have rubber piston seals?

[FormulaMMM]

Originally Posted by adc

Do these have rubber piston seals?

Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92

The most disturbing thing is that you will actually hear the pads rattle in the calipers over cracks and joints on the street. Apply a little pedal pressure and they are silent. Don’t notice it on track... maybe because of heat expansion?

To be expected without the pad tensioners. The pad tensioners/anti-rattle clips are optional, can be ordered with the kit or added afterward. I ordered the kit this week without the clips, but almost exclusively for track use.

[bimmerboyE92]

Originally Posted by adc

Do these have rubber piston seals?

No rubber seals making them great as track calipers but maybe not so good on the street.

[bimmerboyE92]

Originally Posted by FormulaMMM

To be expected without the pad tensioners. The pad tensioners/anti-rattle clips are optional, can be ordered with the kit or added afterward. I ordered the kit this week without the clips, but almost exclusively for track use.

I did not spring (pun intended) for the tensioners at $170 per axle set.

[JoeP]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

resurrecting this thread for some feedback form existing users of the kit...

how many of you are using the kit on your street or street/track car?

how is the performance on the street?

how many miles have you driven on the street vs track (days) with the kit? granted, the real use, benefit and abuse is on the track.

what pads are you using?

and, what is the life of the rotors? any excessive wear from street use?

appreciate everyone feedback, thanks...

I use mine daily on the street but I don't drive the car in the winter. Performance on the street is great. Feels just like stock to me. Haven't tracked yet but that was the obvious reason to get the kit (and the ability to use 18" wheels). I'm using the DS2500 on the street and they are great in my opinion. Given that these rotors are meant to take the abuse of track and a track pad that will inevitably be harder on rotors than a street pad I don't think you need to worry about increased wear from the street.

I do recommend the pad tensioners for the street if you want to maintain streetability. You won't hear the pads rattling around as you drive with the windows down. Even with the pad tensioners you will still hear the pads set into place if you are parking or are just setting off on your drive but once driving, you won't.

I will definitely be doing a review once I get these on the track.

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by JoeP

I use mine daily on the street but I don't drive the car in the winter. Performance on the street is great. Feels just like stock to me. Haven't tracked yet but that was the obvious reason to get the kit (and the ability to use 18" wheels). I'm using the DS2500 on the street and they are great in my opinion. Given that these rotors are meant to take the abuse of track and a track pad that will inevitably be harder on rotors than a street pad I don't think you need to worry about increased wear from the street.

I do recommend the pad tensioners for the street if you want to maintain streetability. You won't hear the pads rattling around as you drive with the windows down. Even with the pad tensioners you will still hear the pads set into place if you are parking or are just setting off on your drive but once driving, you won't.

I will definitely be doing a review once I get these on the track.

thank you for sharing your experience, may I ask how many street miles you have put on the setup?