DIY: Swapping in new head unit + touch screen

[jpsimon]

Recently the Spotify interface in iDrive stopped working for me (did it stop working for any of you too?). I think Spotify just stopped caring and did an update which killed support. Whatever the reason, I was pissed so I decided to upgrade to the newer head unit with wireless CarPlay so I could get my Spotify controls back (and all the other things I'd want like Waze in the iDrive screen).

I contacted steve@codemybimmer and ordered this plug n' play kit:
https://www.codemybimmer.ca/product/...v=7516fd43adaa

I also opted to upgrade my screen to the touch-enabled version.

The install was very straight forward. Here's a brief overview of what you have to do.

Tools needed:
- 10mm socket for battery
- T20 Torx screwdriver
- Trim pry tool (not necessary, but nice to have)

Step 1: Unplug the battery using your 10mm socket

Step 2: Pull off the upper trim and unplug the lock and vent wires.

Step 3: Pull off the lower trim. It helps to use a trim pry tool, but you can probably do it with your fingers

Once that is done, this is what you'll see:


Step 4: Unscrew the 4 T20 screws i have circled in the photo above. The faceplate will come off and there are 2 wires to unplug. In the photo below you'll see I decided not to unplug one of them and just left the faceplate connected.



Step 5: Unscrew the 2 T20 screws circled in the photo above and slide out the head unit.



Step 6: Unscrew the 2 T20 screws holding the screen down - circled above. Pull the screen up, then unplug the wire from the back of the screen.





Step 7: Unplug all the wires from the old headunit and remove it.



Step 8: Plug all the wires back in to the new head unit. Plug the W-LAN Antenna into the W-LAN port in the head unit. And reinstall everything as it was before.

Beep bop boop done! The head unit comes coded to your car and works right out of the box. I added my phone and wireless CarPlay was up and running:




If you have any questions about the install let me know!

steve@codemybimmer was a pleasure to deal with. I recommend anyone looking to upgrade their system to shoot him a message!

[x.shell]

Thanks for this post. I will most likely be doing this in the near future.

[rubber_ducky]

Great DIY! Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up.

[Poochie]

For the record, It's possible Spotify isn't working because your ConnectDrive service is no longer active.

Recently, my Napster APP interface stopped loading also and I realize the reason was due to the fact it was tied to an expired plan. Upon renewal, it was back up again running within minutes.

That's smart that you decided to retrofit ID6, since you can use Google Maps and bypass paying for Connectdrive online.

I'm planning to do the same before my plan is up. Thanks for the writeup.


Another DYI:

[Roch M4]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

Recently the Spotify interface in iDrive stopped working for me (did it stop working for any of you too?). I think Spotify just stopped caring and did an update which killed support. Whatever the reason, I was pissed so I decided to upgrade to the newer head unit with wireless CarPlay so I could get my Spotify controls back (and all the other things I'd want like Waze in the iDrive screen).

I contacted steve@codemybimmer and ordered this plug n' play kit:
https://www.codemybimmer.ca/product/...v=7516fd43adaa

I also opted to upgrade my screen to the touch-enabled version.

The install was very straight forward. Here's a brief overview of what you have to do.

Thank you for your post. Are you still able to use the stock features of your Idrive like navigation, office, Connected Drive, etc...

[derpimpkar]

the link shows a 2016 bmw, would the retrofit also work for a 2015?

also same question about the connecteddrive stuff still working. i can tell what we get new but i'm curious about what we'd lose if anything.

[carM3kee]

Originally Posted by derpimpkar

the link shows a 2016 bmw, would the retrofit also work for a 2015?

also same question about the connecteddrive stuff still working. i can tell what we get new but i'm curious about what we'd lose if anything.

+1 would this work on the 15 m3?

[Mandi90TT]

Just wanted to say, well done DIY!

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by carM3kee

+1 would this work on the 15 m3?

Originally Posted by derpimpkar

the link shows a 2016 bmw, would the retrofit also work for a 2015?

also same question about the connecteddrive stuff still working. i can tell what we get new but i'm curious about what we'd lose if anything.

2015 are generally NBT units. NBT EVO generally started with 2016 (USA) Model Year.

For telecom boxes, NBT uses a TCB and NBT EVO uses an ATM. The wiring harnesses between the NBT and NBT EVO to Telecom box are also VERY different as well.

The NBT Evo to NBT Evo plug and play described in Post 1 is a simple swap as it's simply replacing an NBT EVO HeadUnit with 8 screws. It's really not more difficult than changing the dashboard trim piece which literally anyone can do.

An NBT EVO HeadUnit can be retrofitted and CODED in a NBT vehicle but it is more complex and you lose Connect Drive Services.

If you want to keep Connected Drive with a NBT to NBT EVO retrofit, the retrofit is even more complex and costs grow by roughly $1000. It involves coding, a new wiring harness from the dash to the rear of the car and an ATM.

A F30 member member recently did this complex retrofit.

And a used, working and unregistered donor ATM is a needle in a haystack (though one is listed in the Classifieds currently).

[steve@codemybimmer]

Just an FYI, we're experimenting with modifying the logic boards on US NBT EVO head units to include a GPS port for those of you who have a 2015 model without the ATM telematics unit.

Once we have this available, it will work on the 2015 F8x vehicles along with pretty much any F chassis vehicle that runs on KCAN2.

You will still not be able to use ConnectedDrive but everything else including Sirius XM will work.

Stay tuned!

[TideMD]

Thanks for posting this!
The steps made it look relatively simple and straight forward, so I ordered the new HU and touch screen several weeks back. Just recently had time to make the swap and have loved the up-to-date look and CarPlay functionality.

Many thanks to steve@codemybimmer for making the purchase super easy and being quick to reply to all my questions prior to and after making the decision to buy the retrofit components.

I especially appreciate pointing me toward the coding option that reverts the controller setup to the pre-ID6 configuration. The change was easily performed using BimmerCode.
(HU_NBT_Evo > ZBE_HARDKEY_LAYOUT_NEW > set to "nicht_aktiv")

Bonus win:
One thing that has always bothered me was the intuitively reversed nature of zooming the map (my brain wants a clockwise turn to zoom in - righty tighty, after all).
While searching the HU ECU through BimmerCode, I found an option that was something like ZOOM_IN_DIRECTION_ZBE with options of "left" and "right." Default was "left," so changed it to "right" and it worked. The OCD traits are now slightly reduced while driving.

[psyki]

Originally Posted by TideMD

Bonus win:
One thing that has always bothered me was the intuitively reversed nature of zooming the map (my brain wants a clockwise turn to zoom in - righty tighty, after all).
While searching the HU ECU through BimmerCode, I found an option that was something like ZOOM_IN_DIRECTION_ZBE with options of "left" and "right." Default was "left," so changed it to "right" and it worked. The OCD traits are now slightly reduced while driving.

Seriously? You can change that?? This has bugged the crap out of me, I always have to stop and think for a second before I twist the knob and after more than a year I still sometimes get it wrong!

[TideMD]

Originally Posted by psyki

Seriously? You can change that?? This has bugged the crap out of me, I always have to stop and think for a second before I twist the knob and after more than a year I still sometimes get it wrong!

Yep. I was the same way and after 3.5 years of driving managed to reprogram my reflexive rightward turn. I'm admittedly ashamed of never looking that deep into the HU coding before now.

Of course, now I have to relearn the set up because I keep zooming out when I want to zoom in.

[TideMD]

Originally Posted by psyki

Seriously? You can change that?? This has bugged the crap out of me, I always have to stop and think for a second before I twist the knob and after more than a year I still sometimes get it wrong!

Ran out to the car to make sure details were correct. Using Expert Mode in BimmerCode, go into the HU ECU and search for DIRECTION_ZBE (should be in 3004 System Settings).
Default value is left, so swap it to right and apply coding.

[tgb1974]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

Recently the Spotify interface in iDrive stopped working for me (did it stop working for any of you too?). I think Spotify just stopped caring and did an update which killed support. Whatever the reason, I was pissed so I decided to upgrade to the newer head unit with wireless CarPlay so I could get my Spotify controls back (and all the other things I'd want like Waze in the iDrive screen).

I contacted steve@codemybimmer and ordered this plug n' play kit:
https://www.codemybimmer.ca/product/...v=7516fd43adaa

I also opted to upgrade my screen to the touch-enabled version.

The install was very straight forward. Here's a brief overview of what you have to do.

Tools needed:
- 10mm socket for battery
- T20 Torx screwdriver
- Trim pry tool (not necessary, but nice to have)

Step 1: Unplug the battery using your 10mm socket

Step 2: Pull off the upper trim and unplug the lock and vent wires.

Step 3: Pull off the lower trim. It helps to use a trim pry tool, but you can probably do it with your fingers

Once that is done, this is what you'll see:


Step 4: Unscrew the 4 T20 screws i have circled in the photo above. The faceplate will come off and there are 2 wires to unplug. In the photo below you'll see I decided not to unplug one of them and just left the faceplate connected.



Step 5: Unscrew the 2 T20 screws circled in the photo above and slide out the head unit.



Step 6: Unscrew the 2 T20 screws holding the screen down - circled above. Pull the screen up, then unplug the wire from the back of the screen.





Step 7: Unplug all the wires from the old headunit and remove it.



Step 8: Plug all the wires back in to the new head unit. Plug the W-LAN Antenna into the W-LAN port in the head unit. And reinstall everything as it was before.

Beep bop boop done! The head unit comes coded to your car and works right out of the box. I added my phone and wireless CarPlay was up and running:




If you have any questions about the install let me know!

steve@codemybimmer was a pleasure to deal with. I recommend anyone looking to upgrade their system to shoot him a message!

Reviving an old thread. OP, did you also install the newer iDrive (wheel) controller? To me, it looks like it fits the space exactly without any need to modify the trim. I am about to do this upgrade (new head unit, touchscreen and new iDrive controller) so I thought you might know. Thanks!

[kubax86]

Originally Posted by tgb1974

Reviving an old thread. OP, did you also install the newer iDrive (wheel) controller? To me, it looks like it fits the space exactly without any need to modify the trim. I am about to do this upgrade (new head unit, touchscreen and new iDrive controller) so I thought you might know. Thanks!

you can do it easily
its plug and plug, no need for any mod

[FrankMstein]

Great writeup. I did the same two years ago. Used Remote Bimmer (not bimmer remote), great customer service after the sale!