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      10-14-2021, 03:18 AM   #1
FattyF80
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Is this supposed to sound like this? Need help asap

Is this supposed to sound like this?

Last edited by FattyF80; 10-14-2021 at 01:35 PM..
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      10-14-2021, 03:24 AM   #2
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....rrtevev

Last edited by FattyF80; 10-14-2021 at 01:35 PM..
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      10-14-2021, 05:43 PM   #3
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It should be like "Vroom"…
"Chugga chugga" ain't good.
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      10-14-2021, 08:35 PM   #4
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Did it shot flames?
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      10-14-2021, 08:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfritz27 View Post
Did it shot flames?
Heres the vid https://youtube.com/shorts/EMkRERrZrRU?feature=share
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      10-14-2021, 08:52 PM   #6
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It sounds like you put a 2-stroke engine in there.... not right.

Any CEL or codes?
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      10-14-2021, 08:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyF80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfritz27 View Post
Did it shot flames?
Heres the vid https://youtube.com/shorts/EMkRERrZrRU?feature=share
It's definitely not supposed to sound like an idling chainsaw. Is that from the exhaust or motor?
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      10-14-2021, 08:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82spaceship View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyF80 View Post
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Originally Posted by jfritz27 View Post
Did it shot flames?
Heres the vid https://youtube.com/shorts/EMkRERrZrRU?feature=share
It's definitely not supposed to sound like an idling chainsaw
😂😂 and I probably have to replace fuel injectors and spark plugs correct? Maybe rod bearings?
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      10-14-2021, 08:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfritz27 View Post
It sounds like you put a 2-stroke engine in there.... not right.

Any CEL or codes?
Drivetrain mal mfunction but it was kinda obvious. This shit is shaking but I think I its the fuel injectors and spark plug maybe rod bearings. Whatchu think?
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      10-14-2021, 09:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyF80 View Post
Drivetrain mal mfunction but it was kinda obvious. This shit is shaking but I think I its the fuel injectors and spark plug maybe rod bearings. Whatchu think?
I'd use Bimmerlink and pull the individual codes, see what you're dealing with and go from there.

And please share this car's backstory.
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      10-14-2021, 10:26 PM   #11
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Sounds like a spun rod. 2nd S55 I've seen with this issue in the last week.
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      10-14-2021, 10:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedPiston View Post
Sounds like a spun rod. 2nd S55 I've seen with this issue in the last week.
So have to change all rod bearings?
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      10-14-2021, 10:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82spaceship View Post
It's definitely not supposed to sound like an idling chainsaw. Is that from the exhaust or motor?
I believe motor
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      10-15-2021, 10:15 AM   #14
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Sounds ugly, like a cylinder not firing or a rod knock.

Pull plugs, if all look dry and similar then top end is fairly good. Borescope down plug holes looking for valve scrapes on pistons. Compression test all cylinders.

Next remove oil pan and check bearings. If these then do all bearings and maybe that one rod, and consider an engine kit if it's all taken apart anyway… No need to touch the block bores, our twinwire coated cylinders are ultra hard.
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      10-15-2021, 12:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyF80 View Post
So have to change all rod bearings?
No one on the internet is going to be able to provide a definite answer on what is going on. The next step is to take your car to a reputable shop for diagnostics, and likely an engine tear down.
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      10-15-2021, 12:36 PM   #16
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New pop and bang tune lol. Are you tuned/modded and any codes?
Bummer man, sounds like a bad rod knock or some serious cylinder cut misfire.

Please follow Jimmy's recommendation and report back. I'm interested in hearing the results. On another note, did you guys see the Robert Mitchell video (ring taxi M3) below?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjUBK4FHEPo
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      10-15-2021, 03:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Sounds ugly, like a cylinder not firing or a rod knock.

Pull plugs, if all look dry and similar then top end is fairly good. Borescope down plug holes looking for valve scrapes on pistons. Compression test all cylinders.

Next remove oil pan and check bearings. If these then do all bearings and maybe that one rod, and consider an engine kit if it's all taken apart anyway… No need to touch the block bores, our twinwire coated cylinders are ultra hard.
Will do thanks
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      10-15-2021, 03:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanted_M View Post
New pop and bang tune lol. Are you tuned/modded and any codes?
Bummer man, sounds like a bad rod knock or some serious cylinder cut misfire.

Please follow Jimmy's recommendation and report back. I'm interested in hearing the results. On another note, did you guys see the Robert Mitchell video (ring taxi M3) below?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjUBK4FHEPo
lmaoo new pop n bang tune 😂
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      10-16-2021, 11:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Sounds ugly, like a cylinder not firing or a rod knock.

Pull plugs, if all look dry and similar then top end is fairly good. Borescope down plug holes looking for valve scrapes on pistons. Compression test all cylinders.

Next remove oil pan and check bearings. If these then do all bearings and maybe that one rod, and consider an engine kit if it's all taken apart anyway… No need to touch the block bores, our twinwire coated cylinders are ultra hard.
12 Motor electronics
18 errors
121001: Boost pressure sensor, electrical: short circuit to positive CD8F01: LIN, communication (intelligent battery sensor): missing
1
120408: Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow-up reaction 150102: Ignition, cylinder 1: burning time too short
102A01: Air mass meter, signal: electrical fault
102A11: Air mass meter 2, signal: electrical fault
140010: Misfire, multiple cylinders: detected
140110: Misfire, cylinder 1: detected
140001: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: Injection is switched off
140101: Misfire, cylinder 1: Injection is switched off
102001: Air mass, plausibility: air mass too high
102901: Air mass 2, plausibility: air mass too high
102E11: Air mass meter: electrical fault or air mass implausible
140002: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: harmful to exhaust gas after starting 140102: Misfiring, cylinder 1: harmful to exhaust gas after starting 215109: Battery, battery electronics: defective
121201: Boost pressure sensor, plausibility, overrun: pressure too high 138104: Exhaust flap actuator, signal line: open
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      10-17-2021, 10:27 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyF80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Sounds ugly, like a cylinder not firing or a rod knock.

Pull plugs, if all look dry and similar then top end is fairly good. Borescope down plug holes looking for valve scrapes on pistons. Compression test all cylinders.

Next remove oil pan and check bearings. If these then do all bearings and maybe that one rod, and consider an engine kit if it's all taken apart anyway… No need to touch the block bores, our twinwire coated cylinders are ultra hard.
12 Motor electronics
18 errors
121001: Boost pressure sensor, electrical: short circuit to positive CD8F01: LIN, communication (intelligent battery sensor): missing
1
120408: Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow-up reaction 150102: Ignition, cylinder 1: burning time too short
102A01: Air mass meter, signal: electrical fault
102A11: Air mass meter 2, signal: electrical fault
140010: Misfire, multiple cylinders: detected
140110: Misfire, cylinder 1: detected
140001: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: Injection is switched off
140101: Misfire, cylinder 1: Injection is switched off
102001: Air mass, plausibility: air mass too high
102901: Air mass 2, plausibility: air mass too high
102E11: Air mass meter: electrical fault or air mass implausible
140002: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: harmful to exhaust gas after starting 140102: Misfiring, cylinder 1: harmful to exhaust gas after starting 215109: Battery, battery electronics: defective
121201: Boost pressure sensor, plausibility, overrun: pressure too high 138104: Exhaust flap actuator, signal line: open
Yeesh. Electronics issues.
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      10-17-2021, 10:54 AM   #21
FattyF80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyF80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Sounds ugly, like a cylinder not firing or a rod knock.

Pull plugs, if all look dry and similar then top end is fairly good. Borescope down plug holes looking for valve scrapes on pistons. Compression test all cylinders.

Next remove oil pan and check bearings. If these then do all bearings and maybe that one rod, and consider an engine kit if it's all taken apart anyway… No need to touch the block bores, our twinwire coated cylinders are ultra hard.
12 Motor electronics
18 errors
121001: Boost pressure sensor, electrical: short circuit to positive CD8F01: LIN, communication (intelligent battery sensor): missing
1
120408: Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow-up reaction 150102: Ignition, cylinder 1: burning time too short
102A01: Air mass meter, signal: electrical fault
102A11: Air mass meter 2, signal: electrical fault
140010: Misfire, multiple cylinders: detected
140110: Misfire, cylinder 1: detected
140001: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: Injection is switched off
140101: Misfire, cylinder 1: Injection is switched off
102001: Air mass, plausibility: air mass too high
102901: Air mass 2, plausibility: air mass too high
102E11: Air mass meter: electrical fault or air mass implausible
140002: Misfiring, multiple cylinders: harmful to exhaust gas after starting 140102: Misfiring, cylinder 1: harmful to exhaust gas after starting 215109: Battery, battery electronics: defective
121201: Boost pressure sensor, plausibility, overrun: pressure too high 138104: Exhaust flap actuator, signal line: open
Yeesh. Electronics issues.
I mean theres a lot that isnt connected and Im saying its a misfire for engine lol thats what was making the sound
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      10-17-2021, 06:29 PM   #22
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The first few things I'd do is check the MAF sensors for voltage and then measure resistance to ground to make sure they work, vacuum leak test (smoke method), swap MAF sensors to other bank for testing and then I'd swap cyl 1 plug/coil first to another cylinder, if it follows there you go. If stays on one then injector must be the culprit
Run a compression test to be sure on that cyl.

The big question is what mods are on the car, are you on E and what recently changed with the car? Without that input the good fellas on here can't help you.
Good luck.
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