10-14-2020, 02:15 AM | #3 |
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I found the lip of race car GT4 but is too expensive and algo the replicas... Other option is to make a holes on the front bumper style GT4 but this option I think is complicate....
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10-14-2020, 11:22 PM | #4 |
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Pretty much every lip that has passthrough holes can have brake ducts incorporated, but it's gonna be a lot of DIY. Whether it's worth it to actually run ducts that low is up to you. People who have run ducts under the car managed to tear the ducts to shreds after one or two track days. Every track focused forum from Porsche to Corvette to Miatas to M3s, have had to cobble together brake duct solutions in a DIY fashion; and a lot of them are well documented on their respective forums. So just get a lip you think looks good, and go for it!
Here are a few I found... - 360 Carbon Front Lip - GTS lip - CS lip - M-Perf CF lip with Revozport add on splitter/brake ducts - Hamman lip - Exotics Tuning lip - Varis lip THE MOTHER OF ALL LIPS... M4 GT4 |
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10-14-2020, 11:29 PM | #5 | |
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The M4 GT4 uses 2 separate routes: through the bumper and trough the lower front lip. The one on the bumper is the larger duct though and IMO, plenty of cooling for this car. If you like the look, then I'd go this route as opposed to trying to route it below the car. Here is my car with the bumper ducts. |
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10-15-2020, 04:04 AM | #6 | |
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What are the measures of the "hole"? Thanks mate! |
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10-15-2020, 05:29 AM | #7 | ||
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11-10-2020, 04:27 PM | #9 | |
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11-10-2020, 05:13 PM | #10 | ||
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You go behind the wheel well, then through the wheel well, along the tie rod or control arm, finally to the rotor. It's kind of an involved DIY job. I haven't done it yet so mine is all for looks at the moment. Quote:
The other thing I did was to put spacers on the front two mounts of the lip so that the lip sits lower in center than was intended. You see, the APR lip actually bows up in the middle when you mount it properly; a look I'm not a fan of. I wanted the lip to be level/straight all the way across. I thought the center bow was a waste of visual impact because it takes away from how aggressive the lip is without giving it any meaningful ground clearance advantage... the middle part of the lip hardly ever scrapes. Any one with a lowered car already knows that you angle your way out of driveways, so it's mostly the corner edge that gets scraped up. So with the spacers on the center mounts, you get a lower look without too much sacrifice in ground clearance. You can clearly see the difference with the Austin Yellow lip; the center is bowed up quite a bit compared to mine. APR lip: center bowed up. APR lip: level all the way across. Last edited by x.shell; 11-10-2020 at 05:22 PM.. |
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11-10-2020, 05:33 PM | #11 |
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Looks fantastic - figured you'd dremeled a good amount. Did you have to seal (?) any of the newly-exposed CF edges when you chopped the splitters?
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05-11-2021, 03:25 PM | #12 | |
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How did you get that big A__ hose through those little passages behind the in-bumper ducts? Or did you go around them or something different? I have the ducts in and the brake shield inlets (2.5").
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05-11-2021, 03:47 PM | #13 | |
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Here are a couple pics of my car when I last had the bumper off. This is an M2, but it's practically the same thing. |
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06-09-2022, 08:14 PM | #14 |
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nice work, you don't see many doing the brake ducts. I would love to see a diy to see how involved the duct routing is.
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06-13-2022, 10:33 AM | #15 |
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Seems like the common consensus when DIY'ing your ducts is the issues you invariably run into when your wheels go lock to lock. You almost need to come at the rotor fully perpendicularly or else you may pinch or kink the ducting going lock to lock. It's not a static ziptie job - there needs to be some play/slack (or even droop) to prevent that. It also really depends on your wheel and tire setup (inner clearance).
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