▀▄ eas | DIY: S55 M3/M4 BMC Filter Installation

[ferrarif1]

Factory torque spec for bolts with 13mm head is 28Nm/20.65 ft-lb, verified in ISTA.

No need to remove the rivet in step 5, ISTA does not call for this step.

[romanonj]

Removed mine yesterday, and now getting cel light. No warnings in I drive, I had similar cel on my 435 with intake, so I am thinking too much air flow. Running jb4 stage 1 if that makes any difference.

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by romanonj

Removed mine yesterday, and now getting cel light. No warnings in I drive, I had similar cel on my 435 with intake, so I am thinking too much air flow. Running jb4 stage 1 if that makes any difference.

I'm assuming you're referring to the charcoal liners? Run codes and make sure MAFs are connected.

[romanonj]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

I'm assuming you're referring to the charcoal liners? Run codes and make sure MAFs are connected.

That's what it was.. Thanks cel is gone now.

[wakdady]

Originally Posted by Alpinef82

will this void factory warranty ???? and is there still room to keep the carbon filters? Are they really needed?

i would remove them for any issues you might experience. i've heard of over oiled filters ruining MAF's.

[iuhutch]

Anyone have any real data on this setup for say the BMS intakes? Based on how I understand the s55 intake setup- it's a vacuum / pressurized system and both solutions may have their own pros/cons...

IATs,
Intake flow ccm?
Fuel Mileage?

Etc

[mhanism]

Would anyone have the specs for the 10mm hex bolt in Step #6? This is the smaller bolt that ties down the carbon brace to the reservoir. My local shop misplaced this recently and while not super critical, want to replace.

Thanks in advance!

[trackymbf82]

Anyone know where the hole under the right front engine bay fuse box goes? I dropped a bolt and think it went through it...

Pic 6 up at the top of the brace.

Any tips on getting to it?

[AtlantisF80]

Do you really need a torque wrench? Could I just hand tighten by feel? Any danger when hand tightening without a torque wrench?

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by Eloo818

Do you really need a torque wrench? Could I just hand tighten by feel? Any danger when hand tightening without a torque wrench?

Torque wrench is always recommended, even a cheap one will do in a pinch.

[Roccosil]

I highly suggest you buy a torx extender to reach the deeper screws. I used a torx 25 screwdriver worked just fine

[Bubu88]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

The torque is actually:
13mm 20lb-ft (28Nm)

As your picture shows ISTA recommends to renew screws since the screws are „expansion screws“ (not sure if thats the correct name, I‘m not a native speaker). I‘m wondering that nobody mentioned this here Do you guys think it‘s really necessary? Are they also replaced when replacing original paper filters?

Overall very nice tutorial

[Z06samuel]

thanks for the write up

[FSociety]

Great writeup!

[tmnguyen5]

What kind of tool is needed to get the compression rivets off? I've been trying different trim removal tools but can't seem to get any to fit under the top piece to get it out.

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by tmnguyen5

What kind of tool is needed to get the compression rivets off? I've been trying different trim removal tools but can't seem to get any to fit under the top piece to get it out.

Called a Trim/Door Trim removal tool, should be able to find this in Sears or Home Depot:

[hlm2c]

Does anyone have part numbers for the compression rivet from picture #3 or T-25 torx screws from picture #8?

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by hlm2c

Does anyone have part numbers for the compression rivet from picture #3 or T-25 torx screws from picture #8?

Torx
Fillister head screw - 13717545438

Compression Rivet
Expanding rivet - 51111908077

[hlm2c]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Torx
Fillister head screw - 13717545438

Compression Rivet
Expanding rivet - 51111908077

Thank you!!

[ptper]

Originally Posted by RoadRunner///M

The torque is actually:
13mm 20lb-ft (28Nm)

Does anybody know what the torque spec is for the 10mm bolt? Does it matter?

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by ptper

Does anybody know what the torque spec is for the 10mm bolt? Does it matter?

~8ft.lb, or just hand snug.

[SD ///M4]

I just did this last weekend. Here are my tips and hints:

Steps #1 & #3 - The plastic rivets on each side don't have to be removed. After Steps #2 & #4, just swing the trim covers 180 degrees to the side. This is what I've done every time I've swapped brake pads and have to check the brake fluid under the trim cover on the driver side.

Step #6 shows the rubber boots on the top of the strut towers completely removed. You don't have to do that, you only need to move them out of the way so you can access the strut bar bolts. You may have to remove the two rivets on each side that hold the rubber boots in place, and the keeper rivets that hold the cables in place, although this is not indicated in the instructions.

Step #9 - Take a good look at that picture and notice that the airbox screws were not completely removed as it says to do in Step #8. Step #8 should say "Loosen screws until they no longer hold the lid in place." The top half of the airbox screws have a bare shaft with no threads and they are designed to be held captive in the lid when they are loosened. This makes removing and replacing the lid much, much easier, because you're not trying desperately to not drop one of those completely removed screws into the engine bay, never to be seen again. My dumb ass removed the screws completely but at least I didn't lose any!

Steps #14 and #15 - Same as above.

If you do end up taking out any of the plastic rivets, remember to pull out the pin in the middle about halfway before reinstalling them! Then just put the rivet in place and push in the pin. This will make reinstalling them much easier!