Another engine oil thread. Castrol Edge/Pennzoil/ Liqui Moly?

[TopJimmy]

The LiquiMoly that I had is now used for my riding mower...

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

The LiquiMoly that I had is now used for my riding mower...

[edycol]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

The LiquiMoly that I had is now used for my riding mower...

Cuts grass any better?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by edycol

Cuts grass any better?

I needed to increase rear tires by 1.5PSI to compensate.

[fiveohwblow]

Still rocking liquimoly for my track dedicated e46 m3... Haven't had issues and its suuuuuper fresh with 169,000. Not sent any Blackstone studies yet, but not too concerned either. I dont use it in any of my other vehicles.

[MisterF80M3]

Originally Posted by JamesGames

There are many great approved oils that fit the daily driving role that I personally wouldn't even bother with molygen, especially at a cheaper cost. If you're looking for racing oils, that's a different can of worms, but personally Molygen isn't worth the premium over Castrol 0w40 / 0w30. Motul 5w40 Xcess Gen 2 can be had for a decent price as well. On motul site it links you over to eeuroparts . com and I paid 35 bucks per 5 liters. Hard to beat those two I mentioned.

Castrol 0w40 / 0w30 lost LL-01 but still carries MB 229.5 229.3 / Porsche A40, which are stringent approvals. From MSDS and UOA it seems like it's still pretty much the same formula. I still use it on a lot of my cars. Amazon / walmart sells 5 quart jugs for around 25 dollar typically as well.

Just my 2 cents

I will be doing an oil analysis with my Molygen in my car with ~5000 miles on e85 tune, FBO, and we will see if their oil is really as bad as you think it is.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by MisterF80M3

I will be doing an oil analysis with my Molygen in my car with ~5000 miles on e85 tune, FBO, and we will see if their oil is really as bad as you think it is.

The fact that Molygen does not have any approval, should tell you everything you need to know.

[MisterF80M3]

Originally Posted by edycol

The fact that Molygen does not have any approval, should tell you everything you need to know.

We will see.

[TideMD]

Originally Posted by MisterF80M3

I will be doing an oil analysis with my Molygen in my car with ~5000 miles on e85 tune, FBO, and we will see if their oil is really as bad as you think it is.

I've used the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 (mostly due to ease of purchase with the FCP Euro oil change kit) for the last 18k miles or so (3 OCIs), running similar tune/FBO setup. Sent of for UOA each time and Blackstone report showed no detrimental findings (other than evidence of coolant, which was due to charge cooler leak and resolved after mounting the Mishimoto unit).

After reading this thread a few weeks back, ordered Motul Xcess Gen2 for the upcoming oil change. Will be interesting to see how the UOA values trend over the next several OCIs.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by TideMD

I've used the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 (mostly due to ease of purchase with the FCP Euro oil change kit) for the last 18k miles or so (3 OCIs), running similar tune/FBO setup. Sent of for UOA each time and Blackstone report showed no detrimental findings (other than evidence of coolant, which was due to charge cooler leak and resolved after mounting the Mishimoto unit).

After reading this thread a few weeks back, ordered Motul Xcess Gen2 for the upcoming oil change. Will be interesting to see how the UOA values trend over the next several OCIs.

Please don't forget that UOA is noted designed to tell you how the engine performs with oil, but a state of oil itself. UOA can point to an issue (rod bearings) but to get the full picture, only disassembling engine can tell you that.

[JamesGames]

Originally Posted by MisterF80M3

I will be doing an oil analysis with my Molygen in my car with ~5000 miles on e85 tune, FBO, and we will see if their oil is really as bad as you think it is.

Think you misinterpreted what I was saying. It's not that molygen is "as bad as i I think it is", but it's more that there's oil out there that is readily available, for cheaper, that carries proven, stringent specs. Nothing more, nothing less...

Quote from BITOG regarding A40 approved oil test: "Here is Porsche A40 testing procedure: This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through: - 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving, - 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving, - 40 cold starts, - 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, - 3.5 hours of “running-in” program Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter will be taken into account to grant the approval or not: - torque curve (internal friction), - oxidation of the oil, - Piston cleanliness and ring sticking, - Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 μm. - Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible. - Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method."

You're UOA will be just fine - but again that really wasn't my point. I just find it HARD to beat oil that can be found everywhere, within minutes from your house, or on amazon for 22-25 bucks per 5 quarts, that most importantly - carries proven stringent specs. And if I'm paying more for oil, my hope is it is more worth it.

Again - not saying molygen is "bad" oil. If I were to bet on your results, I would bet my pot all in that molygen did just fine according to Blackstone.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by JamesGames

Think you misinterpreted what I was saying. It's not that molygen is "as bad as i I think it is", but it's more that there's oil out there that is readily available, for cheaper, that carries proven, stringent specs. Nothing more, nothing less...

Quote from BITOG regarding A40 approved oil test: "Here is Porsche A40 testing procedure: This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through: - 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving, - 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving, - 40 cold starts, - 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, - 3.5 hours of “running-in” program Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter will be taken into account to grant the approval or not: - torque curve (internal friction), - oxidation of the oil, - Piston cleanliness and ring sticking, - Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 μm. - Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible. - Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method."

You're UOA will be just fine - but again that really wasn't my point. I just find it HARD to beat oil that can be found everywhere, within minutes from your house, or on amazon for 22-25 bucks per 5 quarts, that most importantly - carries proven stringent specs. And if I'm paying more for oil, my hope is it is more worth it.

Again - not saying molygen is "bad" oil. If I were to bet on your results, I would bet my pot all in that molygen did just fine according to Blackstone.

Don't forget the new addition to Wal Mart: Quaker State Ultra DUrability 5W40(repackaged Pennzoil Euro) that has LL01 and goes for $18 for 5qt.

[MisterF80M3]

I think you guys are forgetting about the FCPEuro lifetime replacement for oil change. You can return used oil and filter and get a replacement free of charge. This route will be significantly cheaper than any Walmart or Kirkland branded oil, IMO.

I personally haven't used their replacement warranty yet but I might try for the next oil change.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by MisterF80M3

I think you guys are forgetting about the FCPEuro lifetime replacement for oil change. You can return used oil and filter and get a replacement free of charge. This route will be significantly cheaper than any Walmart or Kirkland branded oil, IMO.

I personally haven't used their replacement warranty yet but I might try for the next oil change.

By the time you pay shipment, it is not.
On top of that, Liqui Moly is not going into my engine.

[MisterF80M3]

Originally Posted by edycol

By the time you pay shipment, it is not.
On top of that, Liqui Moly is not going into my engine.

I have corporate discount for shipping and according to another thread, you can use PayPal return shipping.

If you aren't happy with your order, we'll provide a free return shipping label or refund the cost of sending it back

To each of their own.

[Shadow2]

Originally Posted by edycol

Don't forget the new addition to Wal Mart: Quaker State Ultra DUrability 5W40(repackaged Pennzoil Euro) that has LL01 and goes for $18 for 5qt.

Nice catch, this is the way to go imo, I've used the Pennzoil Euro for awhile now but its become harder and harder to find. And for that price its a no brainer.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by MisterF80M3

I have corporate discount for shipping and according to another thread, you can use PayPal return shipping.

If you aren't happy with your order, we'll provide a free return shipping label or refund the cost of sending it back

To each of their own.

Well, great. Except for much better oils out there. But, if that fits your preferences, good.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by Shadow2

Nice catch, this is the way to go imo, I've used the Pennzoil Euro for awhile now but its become harder and harder to find. And for that price its a no brainer.

Your local Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts have always deal $33 for 5qt. I get Castrol Edge 0W30 there for winters.

[IVM3]

Originally Posted by edycol

Don't forget the new addition to Wal Mart: Quaker State Ultra DUrability 5W40(repackaged Pennzoil Euro) that has LL01 and goes for $18 for 5qt.

Amazing deal, thanks for sharing! Would you recommend the quaker state euro 5w40 or valvoline euro 5w40 for occasional track use? I do maybe 6-8 half track days per year, but only drive less than 5k miles a year, so I typically only change my oil once a year. Should I also be changing it more often?

Also, it looks like walmart doesn't carry QS ultimate durability 5w40 anymore, just the QS Euro 5w40. I'm wondering if it's the same thing as it is LL01 and porsche A40 rated.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by IVM3

Amazing deal, thanks for sharing! Would you recommend the quaker state euro 5w40 or valvoline euro 5w40 for occasional track use? I do maybe 6-8 half track days per year, but only drive less than 5k miles a year, so I typically only change my oil once a year. Should I also be changing it more often?

Also, it looks like walmart doesn't carry QS ultimate durability 5w40 anymore, just the QS Euro 5w40. I'm wondering if it's the same thing as it is LL01 and porsche A40 rated.

Uh, tough call.
Quaker State is GTL based, which is cutting-edge technology when it comes to base stocks. However, Valvoline makes super stout oils in this category using hydrocracked base stocks. IMO, since both carry actual Porsche A40 approval, they will do well on track.
Also, do not forget, in N55 and S55 engines LL01 is not that important now. LL01 was updated in 2018 to address N20/26 issues and increase OCI, which eliminated most of 0W oils in the category where HTHS has to be over 3.5.
Castrol 0W40 to me would be go to cheap oil for F80 on track unless you going some boutique oils like Motul Sport or 300V. In reality, you really cannot go wrong with any of these oils. To add, since you are using the car on the street and track, street oils are more desirable and not boutique, like 300V.
As for QS Ultra DUrability or just Euro, it is Pennzoil. Pennzoil is notoriously inconsistent with marketing, PDS, and MSDS. On their website they are now advertising as Quaker State Euro, but the link to PDS takes you to Quaker State Ultra Durability. So, Euro is what they sell now I guess. Maybe that is Pennzoil's attack on Mobil1 and Castrol in Wal Mart, hence price.

[Walmart Parking Lot]

Walmart FTW!

[IVM3]

Originally Posted by edycol

Uh, tough call.
Quaker State is GTL based, which is cutting-edge technology when it comes to base stocks. However, Valvoline makes super stout oils in this category using hydrocracked base stocks. IMO, since both carry actual Porsche A40 approval, they will do well on track.
Also, do not forget, in N55 and S55 engines LL01 is not that important now. LL01 was updated in 2018 to address N20/26 issues and increase OCI, which eliminated most of 0W oils in the category where HTHS has to be over 3.5.
Castrol 0W40 to me would be go to cheap oil for F80 on track unless you going some boutique oils like Motul Sport or 300V. In reality, you really cannot go wrong with any of these oils. To add, since you are using the car on the street and track, street oils are more desirable and not boutique, like 300V.
As for QS Ultra DUrability or just Euro, it is Pennzoil. Pennzoil is notoriously inconsistent with marketing, PDS, and MSDS. On their website they are now advertising as Quaker State Euro, but the link to PDS takes you to Quaker State Ultra Durability. So, Euro is what they sell now I guess. Maybe that is Pennzoil's attack on Mobil1 and Castrol in Wal Mart, hence price.

Thanks so much for your help! I will probably stick with QS and Valvoline euro (whatever walmart has in stock at the time) because I have an extended warranty and am a bit paranoid that they would ask for proof of using an LL-01 oil if there is an engine issue.