what oil is everyone using

[Gossypiboma]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

ok edycol l I have the big question. Still waiting on the edycol ultimate oil bible thread post.
Anyway, I drive a tuned F80 7-8000/year and 4-5 track days per year in 40-95deg wx. This is not my primary car, but w/e car. What do I use? Castrol edge, or Motul Sport, or 8100 XG2 5-40 or what, and the OCI?

Another is that my wife has an R56 Mini stock DI crap French engine that gets about 7-8000/year 95% street and 5% Dragon miles. I really DO NOT want to blast valves again! What do I use in that?

Motul Sport has been replaced by 8100 Power. Sport is no longer for sale.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

ok edycol l I have the big question. Still waiting on the edycol ultimate oil bible thread post.
Anyway, I drive a tuned F80 7-8000/year and 4-5 track days per year in 40-95deg wx. This is not my primary car, but w/e car. What do I use? Castrol edge, or Motul Sport, or 8100 XG2 5-40 or what, and the OCI?

Another is that my wife has an R56 Mini stock DI crap French engine that gets about 7-8000/year 95% street and 5% Dragon miles. I really DO NOT want to blast valves again! What do I use in that?

Hey,
Sorry for delay.
That new 8100 Power 5W40 looks like good dual choice for street and track. No brainer there. It is API SP so oxidation is under stricter control.

For Mini? Oh Boy!
I would go Motul X-Clean + 0W30 EFE. New one looks really good. I like low pour point, which means healthy amount of PAO. I am having it right now in my 2021 VW Atlas 2.0T and will do UOA, and report results.

But, point is that you want Low-SAPS oils as they leave less deposits on valves. It can’t prevent CBU, but it will slow it dow. Basically any LL04 oil should do, but I would go one that in addition to LL04 has also MB229.52 (has LSPI test) and VW504.00/507.00.
Another good option is Mobil1 ESP 5W30.

Ultimate thread? Man I know I owe this to everyone. I think in light of the fact that more oils are going API SP, now would be good time

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by edycol

Hey,
Sorry for delay.
That new 8100 Power 5W40 looks like good dual choice for street and track. No brainer there. It is API SP so oxidation is under stricter control.

For Mini? Oh Boy!
I would go Motul X-Clean + 0W30 EFE. New one looks really good. I like low pour point, which means healthy amount of PAO. I am having it right now in my 2021 VW Atlas 2.0T and will do UOA, and report results.

But, point is that you want Low-SAPS oils as they leave less deposits on valves. It can’t prevent CBU, but it will slow it dow. Basically any LL04 oil should do, but I would go one that in addition to LL04 has also MB229.52 (has LSPI test) and VW504.00/507.00.
Another good option is Mobil1 ESP 5W30.

Ultimate thread? Man I know I owe this to everyone. I think in light of the fact that more oils are going API SP, now would be good time

[swagon]

Ravenol RUP 5W40 now after Castro Edge 0W40 and Shell Helix Ultra 5W40

[RElias21]

Originally Posted by edycol

Hey,
Sorry for delay.
That new 8100 Power 5W40 looks like good dual choice for street and track. No brainer there. It is API SP so oxidation is under stricter control.

Ok, sorry to keep going back to this, but now I’m a bit confused. I think the confusion may be because you initially thought the 8100 power was discontinued.

Both the Motul 8100 X-CESS Gen 2 and the 8100 Power are currently available at FCP Euro in 5w-40.

For a tuned F80, on 93 oct., that sees the track about 4 times a year, what is choice 1A and choice 1B.

I know we may be splitting hairs here.

Obviously a bit of a difference in cost, but that’s somewhat irrelevant with FCP’s credit system.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by RElias21

Ok, sorry to keep going back to this, but now I’m a bit confused. I think the confusion may be because you initially thought the 8100 power was discontinued.

Both the Motul 8100 X-CESS Gen 2 and the 8100 Power are currently available at FCP Euro in 5w-40.

For a tuned F80, on 93 oct., that sees the track about 4 times a year, what is choice 1A and choice 1B.

I know we may be splitting hairs here.

Obviously a bit of a difference in cost, but that’s somewhat irrelevant with FCP’s credit system.

Gen 2 would get my vote in your use case.

You are still driving mostly street and 8100 power has lower TBN.

[G35POPPEDMYCHERRY]

supertech (walmart) 0w-30

[M3SQRD]

F82: Red Line 5W30

E92: Red Line 15W50 (Flows better than 10W60 when cold & superior shear strength than 10W60)

[ericold]

Originally Posted by edycol

Street oils are really good in cleaning, dispersing etc. Don’t forget that city driving, short trips etc. are actually harder on oil and engine than track.

ok, i have to say i am a bit confused here.
when i told you, first messages that i do a lot of short trips this time, you advised me to go with 5-30 because no track. if track then 5-40.

but if city driving ,as you recently stated ,is harder on oil than track ,fuel dilution is there too, then isnt a 5-40 like motul gen 2 more suitable to this use?

[ericold]

Originally Posted by edycol

Hey,


But, point is that you want Low-SAPS oils as they leave less deposits on valves. It can’t prevent CBU, but it will slow it dow. Basically any LL04 oil should do, but I would go one that in addition to LL04 has also MB229.52 (has LSPI test) and VW504.00/507.00.
Another good option is Mobil1 ESP 5W30.

Ultimate thread? Man I know I owe this to everyone. I think in light of the fact that more oils are going API SP, now would be good time

for the valves ,i have a lot of experience with mine, i use ll04 oils too, but its there.
the best solution to that ,is to get the car out on highway once a week full rpm for an hour at least ,to get this slime of the valves.its not going to prevent it but it will slow it down.

i am waiting for that thread guide too.

[ericold]

Originally Posted by edycol

Hey,
Sorry for delay.
That new 8100 Power 5W40 looks like good dual choice for street and track. No brainer there. It is API SP so oxidation is under stricter control.

why this motul is only API and not ACEA? first time i meet that to an oil spec.considering that motul is a European brand .

this is a thick oil. from HTHS and VI at 100 is slightly thicker than gen 2.
what are the advantages and disadvantages between this and gen2 xcess?
the differences?

[hellokitty]

[QUOTE=ericold;30716276]why this motul is only API and not ACEA? first time i meet that to an oil spec.considering that motul is a European brand .

this is a thick oil. from HTHS and VI at 100 is slightly thicker than gen 2.
what are the advantages and disadvantages between this and gen2 xcess?
the differences?

More ester content means faster oil oxidation and degradation. This is why I say stick with Gen 2 if you are using the car mostly on the street.

When I ran 300V on the street, oil analysis showed up very poorly only after 2000 miles. When using high ester oils, you should be changing it out at 1,500 miles max.

Gen 2 has higher TBN which means it will do just fine on longer intervals compared to Power.

[E46G07fanatic]

Liqui Moly Special Tec LL Engine Oil 5w-30 synthetic

[ericold]

[QUOTE=hellokitty;30716343]

Originally Posted by ericold

why this motul is only API and not ACEA? first time i meet that to an oil spec.considering that motul is a European brand .

this is a thick oil. from HTHS and VI at 100 is slightly thicker than gen 2.
what are the advantages and disadvantages between this and gen2 xcess?
the differences?

More ester content means faster oil oxidation and degradation. This is why I say stick with Gen 2 if you are using the car mostly on the street.

When I ran 300V on the street, oil analysis showed up very poorly only after 2000 miles. When using high ester oils, you should be changing it out at 1,500 miles max.

Gen 2 has higher TBN which means it will do just fine on longer intervals compared to Power.

i know about esters and oxidation,but i dont think thats the case here.power 5-40 stands between 300v and 8100 series ,so while it does contain esters i think more pao is involved here to make it a street oil too. lower price than 300v indicates more PAO and/or other chemicals in composition of power 5-40

taken from motuls description:

about oxidation-

.The API SP standard is fully backward compatible over API SN requirements and all former API standards. API SP lubricants provide outstanding oxidation resistance, better anti-deposits protection, better engine cleanliness, anti-wear protection and enhanced performance at cold temperature for Fuel Economy savings during the whole oil life span

about street cars-

.For their latest-generation downsized gasoline engines, which are equipped with direct injection systems and turbo- chargers, API has developed the API SP standard for engine lubricants in order to guarantee the perfect integrity of these gasoline engines facing the risk of these abnormal combustions.

when it mentions downsized engines i dont think it refers to track engines,i may be wrong!

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...3_20221128.pdf

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ericold

why this motul is only API and not ACEA? first time i meet that to an oil spec.considering that motul is a European brand .

this is a thick oil. from HTHS and VI at 100 is slightly thicker than gen 2.
what are the advantages and disadvantages between this and gen2 xcess?
the differences?

It is dual street/track oil. It is made for customers that need that versatility. If you ask me, X-Cess 5W40 GEN2 is perfect dual use oil. But, marketing and there is no doubt that due to ester content as well as some additives like sulfur-acidic, Power will probably shear less and be more robust in an engines developing a lot of hp per liter.

[edycol]

[QUOTE=hellokitty;30716343]

Originally Posted by ericold

why this motul is only API and not ACEA? first time i meet that to an oil spec.considering that motul is a European brand .

this is a thick oil. from HTHS and VI at 100 is slightly thicker than gen 2.
what are the advantages and disadvantages between this and gen2 xcess?
the differences?

More ester content means faster oil oxidation and degradation. This is why I say stick with Gen 2 if you are using the car mostly on the street.

When I ran 300V on the street, oil analysis showed up very poorly only after 2000 miles. When using high ester oils, you should be changing it out at 1,500 miles max.

Gen 2 has higher TBN which means it will do just fine on longer intervals compared to Power.

Everything depends on the car. There are some 300V UOA where it oxidizes less than Mobil1 0W40. Also, initial oxidation of 300V is higher. The question is how much dis it oxidize from start as well as relation of TBN to TAN.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ericold

ok, i have to say i am a bit confused here.
when i told you, first messages that i do a lot of short trips this time, you advised me to go with 5-30 because no track. if track then 5-40.

but if city driving ,as you recently stated ,is harder on oil than track ,fuel dilution is there too, then isnt a 5-40 like motul gen 2 more suitable to this use?

Actually, no. Fuel dilution is none isse now that we have ULSG. Golden rule of lubrication is: as thin as possible, as thick as necessary! Of course, if running alcohol, it is different story.
Fuel dilution in new engines (unless you are driving Honda) is much better resolved. Thinner oil in city is always better, especially if you are not reaching operating temperature. In that case KV40 is more important than KV100. The oil flows better at lower temperatures.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by RElias21

Ok, sorry to keep going back to this, but now I’m a bit confused. I think the confusion may be because you initially thought the 8100 power was discontinued.

Both the Motul 8100 X-CESS Gen 2 and the 8100 Power are currently available at FCP Euro in 5w-40.

For a tuned F80, on 93 oct., that sees the track about 4 times a year, what is choice 1A and choice 1B.

I know we may be splitting hairs here.

Obviously a bit of a difference in cost, but that’s somewhat irrelevant with FCP’s credit system.

Are you running track during summer where 4 track days are atacked closed (like once a month). Personally, I would go 1. 8100 Power 2. X-Cess 5W40 GEN2. Yes, it is splitting hairs. I personally would feel warmer around heart running 8100 Power on track

[RElias21]

Originally Posted by edycol

Are you running track during summer where 4 track days are atacked closed (like once a month). Personally, I would go 1. 8100 Power 2. X-Cess 5W40 GEN2. Yes, it is splitting hairs. I personally would feel warmer around heart running 8100 Power on track

And the rest of the year X-Cess Gen 2?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by RElias21

And the rest of the year X-Cess Gen 2?

Yes. Any good street oil. Gen2, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, Castrol Edge 0W30/40 etc.

[ericold]

Originally Posted by edycol

Actually, no. Fuel dilution is none isse now that we have ULSG. Golden rule of lubrication is: as thin as possible, as thick as necessary! Of course, if running alcohol, it is different story.
Fuel dilution in new engines (unless you are driving Honda) is much better resolved. Thinner oil in city is always better, especially if you are not reaching operating temperature. In that case KV40 is more important than KV100. The oil flows better at lower temperatures.

ok with fuel dilution ,i wasn't aware about these info. but for oil operating temp let me understand this.if KV40 is more important for short trips, city commute, then:

motul x-clean 5-30+ , KV 40 = 70

motul x-cess gen 2 5-40 , KV = 75

we are talking about 5-6 мм2/с difference in KV 40. does it make that much of a difference for flow and reaching operating temperature?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ericold

ok with fuel dilution ,i wasn't aware about these info. but for oil operating temp let me understand this.if KV40 is more important for short trips, city commute, then:

motul x-clean 5-30+ , KV 40 = 70

motul x-cess gen 2 5-40 , KV = 75

we are talking about 5-6 мм2/с difference in KV 40. does it make that much of a difference for flow and reaching operating temperature?

Theoretically it does make difference. That is 40c. Difference is higher at 20c or 15c.
IMO if vehicle is not tracked, best Euro oil is still Castrol Edge 0W30. It has lower KV100 while HTHS is 3.58. Very low evaporation loss etc.