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      12-02-2016, 03:34 PM   #23
MaynardZed
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Wider tires could be some of it, but that's very little front toe in. I'd like a little more front toe in for street use, but what you have might be good for the track (I like neutral toe for the track).

For me, I'd want more rear toe in for both street and track.

This is what you wanted when they aligned your car? I usually use an Indy alignment shop and hang out at the alignment rack with them while they're doing it.
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      12-04-2016, 07:47 PM   #24
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Tires are stock size. I'm taking it to a race shop in the morning for another look at the alignment. Maybe the alignment is too aggressive for what I want on the street. I just need a good compromise.
If I dialed in a little more negative toe front and rear, what should I target?

Also I just realized I had asked the mechanic for 2.5 degrees front and he pretty much gave me almost 3. Probably not paying attention to the fact the machine was reading minutes and not fractional degrees.
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      12-05-2016, 01:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMon View Post
Tires are stock size. I'm taking it to a race shop in the morning for another look at the alignment. Maybe the alignment is too aggressive for what I want on the street. I just need a good compromise.
If I dialed in a little more negative toe front and rear, what should I target?

Also I just realized I had asked the mechanic for 2.5 degrees front and he pretty much gave me almost 3. Probably not paying attention to the fact the machine was reading minutes and not fractional degrees.
You want more positive toe (toe in) actually for street use / less tramlining. Try just a hair more in the front and double what you have in the rear. Not sure why they didn't get caster, but worth checking. Gotta babysit some of these guys. Should have better luck at race shop.
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      12-07-2016, 11:38 AM   #26
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Tried this alignment at Roebling Road last weekend -

Front Camber -2.7 -2.7
Rear Camber -2.1 -2.1
Toe just barely out in the front, just barely in in the rear.

Results - Fast, turned in well, but the inside edges of the front tires were hotter than the outsides, and the insides wore much faster than the outer edge. Corded the LF on the inner edge. -2.7 camber was too much for the track and my setup.

275/35/18 NT01 on the front
305/35/18 NT01 on the back.

Think I will try -2.0 front next time out.

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      12-13-2016, 07:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD ///M4 View Post
Did this last week prior to a weekend HPDE at Buttonwillow:

Front Camber: -2.5 degrees
Rear Camber: -1.5 degrees
Front Toe: 0 degrees
Rear Toe: 4mm toe in

Corner Weights w/185 lb. driver):
LF: 1018
RF: 996
LR: 904
RR: 882

Total Weight: 3800 lbs.

Cross Weight: 1900 lbs. 50%

Suspension:
Ground Control camber plates
Dinan Coilover (HAS) suspension kit
Nitto NT01, 275/35 front, 305/35 rear
Apex EC-7, 18x10 ET24 front, 18x11 ET44 rear
How does the car feel on streets and track (if you have gone to one with this alignment)? And how is the wear for the front NT01?
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      02-17-2017, 02:52 PM   #28
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Hello Guys

Just want to have some advices for the rear camber.

I just put -2.0 with my KW V3 and 295 30 19 rear tyres, I'm afraid for the traction on straight line since I have a JB4, any feedback.

I'm doing 4 or 5 track days by year so I want a good compromise.

Thanks
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      02-17-2017, 05:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rif75 View Post
Hello Guys

Just want to have some advices for the rear camber.

I just put -2.0 with my KW V3 and 295 30 19 rear tyres, I'm afraid for the traction on straight line since I have a JB4, any feedback.

I'm doing 4 or 5 track days by year so I want a good compromise.

Thanks
Don't be afraid, -2.0 camber in the rear is fine, adjusting toe in the rear is something you might want to focus on with a set of fall line adjustable toe links.
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      02-20-2017, 01:01 PM   #30
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Thanks men, I'll try it on the track next week. We'll see.
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      02-21-2017, 06:54 PM   #31
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The front nt01 got destroyed on the inside edges.

Last weekend I started at 2.2, the outside edges were hotter than inside... Moved to 2.4ish as far seems to be the sweet spot for best grip and even wear (flat track, Roebling).

Quote:
Originally Posted by rif75 View Post
Hello Guys

Just want to have some advices for the rear camber.

I just put -2.0 with my KW V3 and 295 30 19 rear tyres, I'm afraid for the traction on straight line since I have a JB4, any feedback.

I'm doing 4 or 5 track days by year so I want a good compromise.

Thanks
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      03-12-2017, 06:37 PM   #32
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Trying this with NT01 275/35/18 305/35/18
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      03-12-2017, 06:38 PM   #33
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Trying this with NT01 275/35/18 305/35/18
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      03-20-2017, 06:26 PM   #34
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Hey guys, hoping to get some pointers here as I know absolutely nothing about alignment specs and what to ask for.

Car is a 2016 M3 ZCP with Swift springs and 10mm spacers all the way around. I drive on the street 99.9% of the time with the occasional autocross or dragstrip day. Can someone recommend what alignment specs I should ask for when I get it done?

Thanks!
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      03-20-2017, 08:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.a.r.k.u.s View Post
Hey guys, hoping to get some pointers here as I know absolutely nothing about alignment specs and what to ask for.

Car is a 2016 M3 ZCP with Swift springs and 10mm spacers all the way around. I drive on the street 99.9% of the time with the occasional autocross or dragstrip day. Can someone recommend what alignment specs I should ask for when I get it done?

Thanks!
If 99% street use, then I recommend not doing anything to the alignment. The car is fine for street use, it's not until you reach considerable speed and banked turns/sweepers that it understeers. Even my ZCP at the Tail of the Dragon was fine with the stock alignment. "Safe" canyon driving is well-within the limits of the stock ZCP. Just enjoy it!
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      03-20-2017, 10:12 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M.a.r.k.u.s View Post
Hey guys, hoping to get some pointers here as I know absolutely nothing about alignment specs and what to ask for.

Car is a 2016 M3 ZCP with Swift springs and 10mm spacers all the way around. I drive on the street 99.9% of the time with the occasional autocross or dragstrip day. Can someone recommend what alignment specs I should ask for when I get it done?

Thanks!
If 99% street use, then I recommend not doing anything to the alignment. The car is fine for street use, it's not until you reach considerable speed and banked turns/sweepers that it understeers. Even my ZCP at the Tail of the Dragon was fine with the stock alignment. "Safe" canyon driving is well-within the limits of the stock ZCP. Just enjoy it!
Cool, thanks! I'll have them align it to stock specs in that case.
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      03-22-2017, 06:42 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD ///M4 View Post
Did this last week prior to a weekend HPDE at Buttonwillow:

Front Camber: -2.5 degrees
Rear Camber: -1.5 degrees
Front Toe: 0 degrees
Rear Toe: 4mm toe in

Corner Weights w/185 lb. driver):
LF: 1018
RF: 996
LR: 904
RR: 882

Total Weight: 3800 lbs.

Cross Weight: 1900 lbs. 50%

Suspension:
Ground Control camber plates
Dinan Coilover (HAS) suspension kit
Nitto NT01, 275/35 front, 305/35 rear
Apex EC-7, 18x10 ET24 front, 18x11 ET44 rear
How do the 18x10 ET24s go upfront with the 275/35 NT01s and Dinan HAS, any rubbing inside the wheel well or sticking out from guards/fenders without spacers?

Photo/s would be amazing...thinking of a similar set up with ET 22
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      03-26-2017, 06:14 PM   #38
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Can someone give the spec of the ZCP alignment? Just want to compare with the normal M4.
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      03-27-2017, 11:55 AM   #39
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ZCP with TCKline camber plates on the middle setting. Lots of caster with these plates. Turn-in is improved and overall feel is better. Will update next week after I go to NCM this coming weekend.

Any experimented with the rear camber? -2.0+ is better? I was getting pretty good wear and temperatures across the tires with the stock alignment around -1.4 per side (rear).
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      03-30-2017, 03:13 PM   #40
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My alignment is off and I'm going to bring it to a friends shop that just got the new hunter alignment machine. I've had bmw did my alignment twice after my rear axle was snapped. It's now been about 8-9k miles since I've done alignment. Front tires are stock pss, rear tires are re71r. Anyone have stock alignment specs or a little more aggressive alignment spec would be preferred for my edc suspension non competition package. Thank you
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      06-02-2017, 01:23 PM   #41
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Here is the alignment I've finally settled into for both street and track. Drives nice on the street and has mostly even wear after a few track days. Tires are now lasting >15 hours of track time.
My first few stabs had my alignment too aggressive (-3 front, and -2 rear, and too little front & rear toe). Too much tram-lining and wondering on the street, little bit too much inner wear (rear) at the track. Kept backing it down until I got to this:

(Note: units are in degrees and minutes, not decimal. ex: -225 = -2.42)
Camber Plates, RE-71r stock 19" sizing....
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      08-23-2018, 04:27 PM   #42
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Thanks for this thread, its the most useful source Ive found on google

Ive just got a stock M4 and am looking to track it. Im about to get some ground control camber plates installed but it will otherwise be stock.

Was originally thinking 2.5 front then 2.0 rear but wondering if I should try more at the front? itll probably do 20+ days a year and maybe 6k road miles.

Just want to make sure Im not killing the outside edges of the tyres every track day!

Thanks again
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      08-23-2018, 07:02 PM   #43
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2016 BMW M3  [5.00]
Check out my alignment and corner balancing numbers here.

I use these settings all the time, both street and track and am happy with the results.
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      08-23-2018, 09:46 PM   #44
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Hey guys. What's a reasonable cost for labor in installing camber plates, including alignment? Over $1000 sounds a little high (actually a lot high).
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