F8X S55 owners BEWARE!!!!

[icebiker]

I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?

[WeekendWarriorz]

Originally Posted by icebiker

I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?

Take the charge pipe off and see if you can see any residue in there.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by icebiker

I've been monitoring my IC reservoir regularly for the past 4 months/2,300 miles after my dealer did a pressure test and found no issues. Since that service (at which they topped up the coolant to the midway mark on the yellow marker) it dropped from midway to the Min mark within a couple of weeks. But has held steady since then (no further loss). So, my question based on a few of the more recent posts is: could the initial drop in coolant be tied to an improper bleed procedure done at the last service, rather than a leaky TMIC?

They probably did the bleed procedure once. It needs to be done about 3 times to get all bubbles out, or just drive and top off. You are good as long as the level stays.

[M3orbust]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

They probably did the bleed procedure once. It needs to be done about 3 times to get all bubbles out, or just drive and top off. You are good as long as the level stays.

after reading this (2016 m3 dct 31xxx miles) I looked in my resivior and fluid was right in the middle. not sure if it came topped off or not but i added some fluid to top it off. took off the top charge pipes to check with flash light and scoop camera pipes and inside of tmic looks so clean no residue, staning, nothing dont think a 50 50 mix will evaporate in a closed system but will keep an eye on it now that the op has me worried

[swagon]

Originally Posted by HeatGun

See this video

Thanks! I suspect the whole valve cover has to be replaced as the PCV is welded onto it, right.

[HeatGun]

Originally Posted by swagon

Thanks! I suspect the whole valve cover has to be replaced as the PCV is welded onto it, right.

Yes, that's what I did.
Paid $533 for the valve cover from the BMW dealership. I replaced it myself. with the right tools, you can get it done in 4-5 hours.

[fknlo]

Fuck.

Time to figure out what I'm going to replace it with.

[icebiker]

Following up on my prior posts. Since my July service 2,300 miles ago, at which IC and Radiator tanks were tested and topped off to mid-point, a) IC tank was at min level (so, a slight drop) and radiator tank was just below min level (so, a bit more drop than IC tank). Both tanks were pressure tested for an extended period of time (over an hour) and had no issues (see readings attached). Charge pipe was removed and IC was scoped. No residue In the pipes and the IC fins were fine. No radiator leaks or foreign matter either. Car is behaving just fine.

Best guess from dealer was potentially that after last service there may have been air in the system (insufficient bleed) that eventually resolved and the level dropped slightly. Does that seem plausible?

Also, radiator tank level (engine cold) after this latest service is just above max. Should I remove some of the fluid to bring it to mid-point?

[Steve Lavigne]

Mine looks like this when I open the reservoir when the engine is running at idle:



I’m guessing this means my intercooler has a leak in it and I need to replace it. Can anyone confirm? The level was low, had a fault for dry running charge pump but no CEL. Observed the bubbles after topping it back up, then driving with boost a bit.

[BzsBimmer]

Originally Posted by Steve Lavigne

Mine looks like this when I open the reservoir when the engine is running at idle:



I’m guessing this means my intercooler has a leak in it and I need to replace it. Can anyone confirm? The level was low, had a fault for dry running charge pump but no CEL. Observed the bubbles after topping it back up, then driving with boost a bit.

More than likely a leak but bubbles will be normal during bleeding process. Run a bleed cycle and keep an eye on it.

Only way to tell would be to scope the cooler and look for leaking, residue or removing intake manifold and look for buildup. Spark plugs could also be an indicator.

[TopJimmy]

Steve,

Just run the purge cycle twice in a row, topping up during and after each cycle.

Top up your big res too, and then go drive in Sp+ until the car is warmed up. Now do two good highway pulls. Go park and let the car cool overnight. Neither res should be below low. Next morning check both reservoirs and top up to the top of the yellow "toilet tank" indicator.

Now you're good. If you do a warmup and the two highway pulls again, after cool down you should show perfectly full. If not then start looking for leaks or residue.

-TJ

[Steve Lavigne]

Thank you for the tips Bzs and TJ!

[WeekendWarriorz]

Here's an update to the OP's car. Almost two years later the replacement charge air cooler failed again. The car is at 42k miles and on its second charge air cooler.

Codes found via MHD include:
108C01- Charge air temperature, plausibility:temperature too high
120408- Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
20A201- Charge air, cooling system: Dry-run detected

[Fugly M3]

Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz

Here's an update to the OP's car. Almost two years later the replacement charge air cooler failed again. The car is at 42k miles and on its second charge air cooler.

Codes found via MHD include:
108C01- Charge air temperature, plausibility:temperature too high
120408- Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
20A201- Charge air, cooling system: Dry-run detected

So, apparently, thee charge cooler is a 20k mile service item. Ugh!

[m3elmo]

Originally Posted by F82PRETEND

So, apparently, thee charge cooler is a 20k mile service item. Ugh!

hope not - I'm coming up to that number now!!

[scoale]

Just another data point. Mine replaced @ 50k miles under extended warranty.

[RRedline]

What is the "normal" level as shown on the yellow toilet tank indicator?

I usually check mine once per quarter. It was previously filled up over the top of the toilet tank from the factory and never moved.

My car went in and had the valvetronic motor replaced about 2 months ago. I have not checked the level since that service. I checked today and see that the level is right about in the middle of the toilet tank.

From what I read in this thread, that's normal? I'm guessing they just didn't fill it up as much as before following the valvetronic service?

I'll keep an eye on it.

[BzsBimmer]

Normal is anywhere above the flat (min) and under the top lip (max)

[tnt3k]

I'm the 2nd owner of a minimally driven MY2016 M3 with 21k miles. It's out of warranty and reading through these threads, I checked my coolant and I ended up having to add 4.2 Cups of 50/50 mix in the engine coolant tank. Intercooler was right in the middle.

What are my next steps here? I'm thinking it is to drive around and monitor for a week or two. If it is still leaking is this something I can bring up to the dealership outside of warranty or is my efforts futile there? Is there any likelihoood that they might cover?

Appreciate any advice here.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by CaliF80rnia

I'm the 2nd owner of a minimally driven MY2016 M3 with 21k miles. It's out of warranty and reading through these threads, I checked my coolant and I ended up having to add 4.2 Cups of 50/50 mix in the engine coolant tank. Intercooler was right in the middle.

What are my next steps here? I'm thinking it is to drive around and monitor for a week or two. If it is still leaking is this something I can bring up to the dealership outside of warranty or is my efforts futile there? Is there any likelihoood that they might cover?

Appreciate any advice here.

Good thing the intercooler reservoir is good.

Just check and top up the radiator reservoir one more time after a complete coil-down. Then watch the level in the mornings. If you have any leak on the big tank it's usually at the plastic-weld seam around the middle, look for white residue.

A new tank is an easy swap if needed.

[tnt3k]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Good thing the intercooler reservoir is good.

Just check and top up the radiator reservoir one more time after a complete coil-down. Then watch the level in the mornings. If you have any leak on the big tank it's usually at the plastic-weld seam around the middle, look for white residue.

A new tank is an easy swap if needed.

Appreciate it the advice! Did swap a reservoir on the 528i my parents was driving when it was leaking and the M3 doesn't look anything like that. I haven't seen any leaks anywhere around the radiator reservoir, on the floor, or alternator underneath. Will keep an eye out on it. Thx

[foreversinglem4]

this is happening to me right now =\