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      01-17-2020, 01:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
Did you check your data to see if your brake pedal pressure changed (aka more aggressive trailing brake than intended)

On topic, my recollection is the heaviest track users on the forum like Canaut and Maynard have stock engines.

I think masterP and MasterC17 and other posters had heavy mods on suspension but also stock drivetrain.

Long story short OP, my recollection is the bulk of heavy user data we have on the forums is on stock drivetrains.
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      01-17-2020, 02:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Continental02 View Post
I'm not sure what the exact power is for the GT4. My comfort came from knowing that my same drivetrain is out there racing each weekend and trusted to finish without issue. Even if the car is down on power, it's still overengineered at whatever level they're running it at and is proven capable of finishing 24-hour endurance races.
S55 is IMO in fact a pretty (impressively) stout motor such that only concerns for people running 600hp+ are SCH, cooling, and accelerated component/part wears. I think it falls in the same, classic 'pay to play category' like overclocking a CPU that voids warranty simply because manufacturer can only predict it's lifespan when it was operated within their design expectation. It might work long time and well, or it might fail on the next day depending on how it is treated.

I respect everyone's different choice. It's just that for some of us that potential SCH is still expensive and a headache, still want to keep warranty, want to keep the car longer, or simply fine with factory power level driving at track.
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      01-17-2020, 02:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
It doesn't have a lot of power. You may get 500 with the top one.

So people shouldn't be surprised those engines don't have many issues, the same as the GTS doesn't have many issues either.
Yes but I understand (slightly off topic) a fully built race car (on slicks) with 450-500hp at 3152lb (https://european.gt4series.com/bmw-m4-gt4) is a completely different story! I wanna drive one!

IIRC, PrimeBMW's E46 M3 race car (V8) is about 3100lb with a driver and pushes 450whp or so... and it's ridiculously fast. So I can get a rough estimate of how fast that GT4 might be.
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      01-17-2020, 02:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen View Post
S55 is IMO in fact a pretty (impressively) stout motor such that only concerns for people running 600hp+ are SCH, cooling, and accelerated component/part wears. I think it falls in the same, classic 'pay to play category' like overclocking a CPU that voids warranty simply because manufacturer can only predict it's lifespan when it was operated within their design expectation. It might work long time and well, or it might fail on the next day depending on how it is treated.

I respect everyone's different choice. It's just that for some of us that potential SCH is still expensive and a headache, still want to keep warranty, want to keep the car longer, or simply fine with factory power level driving at track.
ah the good old days of overclocking
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      01-17-2020, 02:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen View Post
Yes but I understand (slightly off topic) a fully built race car (on slicks) with 450-500hp at 3152lb (https://european.gt4series.com/bmw-m4-gt4) is a completely different story! I wanna drive one!

IIRC, PrimeBMW's E46 M3 race car (V8) is about 3100lb with a driver and pushes 450whp or so... and it's ridiculously fast. So I can get a rough estimate of how fast that GT4 might be.
I haven't driven in one but I've driven against one... it's sweet. It's what I'd get if I were spending 180k on a track car instead of some other questionable choices people make
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      01-17-2020, 03:38 PM   #28
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Reliable

Super reliable "knock on wood." Except for that one time at (BRP) the Drivetrain Malfunction CEL came on and went in limp mode. I turned it on and off and it hasn't happen ever since. Weird/glitch. Knowing my computer will prevent it from over revving and destroying the motor is comforting to me. One E92 M3 blown motor at CVR is enough to last a lifetime.
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      01-17-2020, 07:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen View Post
Yes but I understand (slightly off topic) a fully built race car (on slicks) with 450-500hp at 3152lb (https://european.gt4series.com/bmw-m4-gt4) is a completely different story! I wanna drive one!

IIRC, PrimeBMW's E46 M3 race car (V8) is about 3100lb with a driver and pushes 450whp or so... and it's ridiculously fast. So I can get a rough estimate of how fast that GT4 might be.
He shared the cost of tracking his car in another thread and itís absolutely massive.

I guess big speed goes with big $$$ all the time.
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      01-20-2020, 12:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
ah the good old days of overclocking
Yeah all that celeron and MMX and things. But it's still going thing. It turned out a cpu company has a dedicated overclock research team and tom's hardware recently visited the lab. The team actually gave them some tips on safe overclocking in voltage range in which tom's hardware didn't considered as safe. That would be nice car manufacturers also share such tips on tuning as well since there are voiding warranty anyways!
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      01-20-2020, 12:55 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
He shared the cost of tracking his car in another thread and itís absolutely massive.

I guess big speed goes with big $$$ all the time.
You could take out electric motors from your Tesla truck and put them into your Miata. Lead the new era of Miata motor swap!

Yeah only cheaper way I can think of is a lightweight track toy with motorcycle engine. Portland has a company that makes one something like ~1000lbs with 400hp and its insanely fast. Not every track day allows it though.
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      01-20-2020, 01:18 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen View Post
You could take out electric motors from your Tesla truck and put them into your Miata. Lead the new era of Miata motor swap!

Yeah only cheaper way I can think of is a lightweight track toy with motorcycle engine. Portland has a company that makes one something like ~1000lbs with 400hp and its insanely fast. Not every track day allows it though.
Lol. I have a reservation for a (currently) vaporware truck. No EV swaps in near future.

That being said I have toyed with building up an Exocet (Miata based kit car) and stuffing a v8 into it, stuffing v8 into current Sm, or getting an atom.

First things first, I need to close the gaps in my driving and race craft in SM before thinking about those faster toys.
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      01-22-2020, 10:34 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomeler View Post

AFAIK manuals weren't as susceptible to downshift induced crank hub spins, probably due to drivers being a bit more cautious about bouncing off redline with the downshift.
I agree with that statement. Im Stage 2, 2 days at the track, and the biggest thing I am cautious about is downshifts. Im not an amazing driver at the track, so I brake a little earlier, and am very cautious about revs. Maybe if I get a bit more aggressive I will address crank hub, but for now it wont keep me up at night.
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      01-23-2020, 03:13 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoChris View Post
I agree with that statement. Im Stage 2, 2 days at the track, and the biggest thing I am cautious about is downshifts. Im not an amazing driver at the track, so I brake a little earlier, and am very cautious about revs. Maybe if I get a bit more aggressive I will address crank hub, but for now it wont keep me up at night.
Have you tried torque reduction by gear? Guys I know running tunes are reducing second gear torque 30%, third gear 20% and fourth gear 10%. Depends on the tune etc. Not sure how much, but they claim it lowers the risk and makes the car more drivable.

Being from the bay area, would be interested to hear your experience in turn 11 at Laguna in second gear without torque reduction.
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      01-23-2020, 07:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanatic1 View Post
Have you tried torque reduction by gear? Guys I know running tunes are reducing second gear torque 30%, third gear 20% and fourth gear 10%. Depends on the tune etc. Not sure how much, but they claim it lowers the risk and makes the car more drivable.

Being from the bay area, would be interested to hear your experience in turn 11 at Laguna in second gear without torque reduction.
I'm also curious what boost reduction by gear settings track guys are using.

I've seen 1 person recommend 20% reduction by gear for 1st - 4th.
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      01-31-2020, 08:30 PM   #36
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Spun my hub the first time out at LRP with a VF Stage 1 tune. Call it luck of the draw but it failed within 800 miles of getting the tune installed. I believe the heavy torque the tune produce down low didn't help the situation.

Since then I'm on a new engine with CBC with a Stage 2 Apline tune. (basically a GTS tune) Compared to VF this tune is much more linear in its power delivery. No issues after ten or so track events. Knock on Wood.

I also no longer have the transmission shift setting at it's most aggressive. I keep it in the second setting. I believe abrupt changes to the drivetrain may contribute to SCB. Who knows though.

In the video below you'll notice I wasn't being hard on the engine at all.

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      02-14-2020, 12:12 PM   #37
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Hey guys, I had my car tuned on BM3. Initially stage 1, then stage 2 with downpipes. We did countless street logs and revisions, and everything was fine on the street. However both times I get to the track (Stage 1 and Stage 2 flash), the car immediately goes into drivetrain malfunction within the first 1-2 laps in the first session cutting boost completely and limiting RPM to about 4K, just enough to limp it on track. I turn the car off, clear any codes it has, and the car will continue to boost, however it will progressively pull a noticeable amount of power as the car gets hotter after each lap and eventually begin to cut power towards the end of straights. I'm curious if anyone had a similar problem. Any input is appreciated.
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      02-14-2020, 03:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Projectcorsam4 View Post
Hey guys, I had my car tuned on BM3. Initially stage 1, then stage 2 with downpipes. We did countless street logs and revisions, and everything was fine on the street. However both times I get to the track (Stage 1 and Stage 2 flash), the car immediately goes into drivetrain malfunction within the first 1-2 laps in the first session cutting boost completely and limiting RPM to about 4K, just enough to limp it on track. I turn the car off, clear any codes it has, and the car will continue to boost, however it will progressively pull a noticeable amount of power as the car gets hotter after each lap and eventually begin to cut power towards the end of straights. I'm curious if anyone had a similar problem. Any input is appreciated.
Stock charge pipes?
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      02-14-2020, 03:25 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanatic1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Projectcorsam4 View Post
Hey guys, I had my car tuned on BM3. Initially stage 1, then stage 2 with downpipes. We did countless street logs and revisions, and everything was fine on the street. However both times I get to the track (Stage 1 and Stage 2 flash), the car immediately goes into drivetrain malfunction within the first 1-2 laps in the first session cutting boost completely and limiting RPM to about 4K, just enough to limp it on track. I turn the car off, clear any codes it has, and the car will continue to boost, however it will progressively pull a noticeable amount of power as the car gets hotter after each lap and eventually begin to cut power towards the end of straights. I'm curious if anyone had a similar problem. Any input is appreciated.
Stock charge pipes?
SSR Performance Chargepipes. Happened before and after chargepipes.
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      02-24-2020, 08:19 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Projectcorsam4 View Post
Hey guys, I had my car tuned on BM3. Initially stage 1, then stage 2 with downpipes. We did countless street logs and revisions, and everything was fine on the street. However both times I get to the track (Stage 1 and Stage 2 flash), the car immediately goes into drivetrain malfunction within the first 1-2 laps in the first session cutting boost completely and limiting RPM to about 4K, just enough to limp it on track. I turn the car off, clear any codes it has, and the car will continue to boost, however it will progressively pull a noticeable amount of power as the car gets hotter after each lap and eventually begin to cut power towards the end of straights. I'm curious if anyone had a similar problem. Any input is appreciated.
I experienced the same DTMAL issue with a BM3 stage 2 on track. It's my belief that stage 1 is a safer bet for track use. I wasn't doing any gear reduction with my tunes.
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      02-25-2020, 02:41 AM   #41
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then stage 1 tunes' power levels being not too far from GTS power level probably tells us something
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      02-26-2020, 12:58 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
You had a pretty good run on your M4, with only injectors and coilpacks being consumables (and a fuel filler neck).
What are symptoms of injections and coil packs failing?
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      02-26-2020, 12:05 PM   #43
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What are symptoms of injections and coil packs failing?
Misfires/codes.
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      02-29-2020, 04:07 PM   #44
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I've had successful hot session in FL with the BM3 CS+ tune at Homestead.

I've recently had to do plugs. OEM Bosch only lasted about 14k miles before I get stuttering on hard acceleration. Running colder NGKs. Plugs make a big difference.

Just installed DPs and have been running the BM3 GTS tune for awhile. The GTS tune is much more linear to drive over the CS+. Going to leave the GTS tune for the next track time, hopefully in April.

Also on BM3, there is a Max Cool option, which reduces water coolant targets by 10 Celsius. Have been running this on the street and it was noticeable on the water temp gauge.

Summer is coming, so every little bit helps.
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