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      05-22-2018, 10:40 AM   #1
Tommy L Garage
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F80 F82 F83 Oil Change DIY

I wanted to share my recent oil change clip for those of you who are interested in doing it yourselves.

You need the following:

- Filter removal tool:
- Oil Filter and Gaskets & Washer:
- Oil - either 0w30 or 5w30 (You need 7 bottles - 6.5 literal goes in):
- Recommended: Latex Gloves:
- Recommended: torque wrench:


It took me 15 minutes and that’s with maneuvering the camera. It’s nice and easy. I did it mid-cycle since I had four days of track on the oil.

Enjoy.


Last edited by Tommy L Garage; 05-22-2018 at 12:12 PM..
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      05-22-2018, 11:51 AM   #2
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Very nice DIY!

On my first mid cycle oil change, the oil draining from the pan did the exact same thing - came out so fast it splashed out of the oil catch container. I ended up with over 1 quart on my garage floor. Too funny to see I'm not the only one this happened to.

Glad your Hero survived the encounter.
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      05-22-2018, 12:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddeo View Post
Very nice DIY!

On my first mid cycle oil change, the oil draining from the pan did the exact same thing - came out so fast it splashed out of the oil catch container. I ended up with over 1 quart on my garage floor. Too funny to see I'm not the only one this happened to.

Glad your Hero survived the encounter.
haha it took me a while to realize what was happening...I guess I could not believe my eyes. I'll start putting a piece of paper in that spot next time to prevent this from happening in the future
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      05-23-2018, 05:41 AM   #4
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It's the sequence that caused the "gush."

I start draining old oil.
Then go to filter.

With filter loose before loosening drain plug, you provide air an easy way in which allows oil to flow out the drain faster resulting in that gush of oil.
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      05-23-2018, 07:05 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
It's the sequence that caused the "gush."

I start draining old oil.
Then go to filter.

With filter loose before loosening drain plug, you provide air an easy way in which allows oil to flow out the drain faster resulting in that gush of oil.
I remove the oil fill cap in the engine bay before loosening the drain plug and never have the gush problem. I then do the filter while the oil is draining.

You need some air otherwise you may get a "glug" when the oil drains (think about turning a jug of water upside down how it glugs out faster/slower). Same concept as why many oil drain pans have a small hole that you are supposed to uncap before draining the oil so it flows smoothly into the pan and doesnt pool and glug. Maybe the filter housing allows too much air initially
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      05-23-2018, 07:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
I remove the oil fill cap in the engine bay before loosening the drain plug and never have the gush problem. I then do the filter while the oil is draining.

You need some air otherwise you may get a "glug" when the oil drains (think about turning a jug of water upside down how it glugs out faster/slower). Same concept as why many oil drain pans have a small hole that you are supposed to uncap before draining the oil so it flows smoothly into the pan and doesnt pool and glug. Maybe the filter housing allows too much air initially
This could be the case.
In my previous cars I used to loosen up the oil cap, but figured with this one since the filter is on top, I might as well do that.
Anyways - lesson learned!
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      05-23-2018, 07:38 AM   #7
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Fill cap does not equal oil filter. My experience is that the fill cap can be on or off and doesn't affect drain rate. Oil filter cap has a significant effect on drain rate.
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      05-23-2018, 12:29 PM   #8
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I will have to try this next time as well. I don't remember if I broke the seal on the filter first.
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      05-23-2018, 01:21 PM   #9
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I love it when people work on their own cars! I heard the oil shoots out pretty fast when you unplug the 17mm.

Also is it possible you can do some more technical tutorials like spark plugs, brakes/rotors, etc?
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      05-23-2018, 02:54 PM   #10
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And for those who want to reset the oil change indicator:
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1230861

Thanks for this Tommy, the more DIY's the better. I'll be taking over my oil changes once the warranty runs out!
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      05-23-2018, 04:04 PM   #11
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Along these lines I just changed my air filters. The strut brace has to be removed. There are a couple of tricks to this especially to remove the plastic covers by the firewall hiding the bolts holding the strut brace.
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      05-24-2018, 02:59 AM   #12
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quick question...Is that a Jack point, the round piece thats been welded on to that skid plate? Its in the top right of the screen capture for the video. I noticed this last week when i was putting on my spacers but wasn't sure what it is. It would definitly make things easier if it is a jack point becasue the jack on the drive on lift at our auto hobby shop does not extend far enough out to hit the left and right points but sits perfectly under that spot.
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      05-24-2018, 07:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metomwhou View Post
quick question...Is that a Jack point, the round piece thats been welded on to that skid plate? Its in the top right of the screen capture for the video. I noticed this last week when i was putting on my spacers but wasn't sure what it is. It would definitly make things easier if it is a jack point becasue the jack on the drive on lift at our auto hobby shop does not extend far enough out to hit the left and right points but sits perfectly under that spot.
I did the delivery tour at the nj vdc and asked a tech the same question. He flat out said no, use the 4 jack points. He said it might take it, but he wouldn't risk bending the aluminum plate if it was his car.
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      05-25-2018, 12:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92 M Sport View Post
I did the delivery tour at the nj vdc and asked a tech the same question. He flat out said no, use the 4 jack points. He said it might take it, but he wouldn't risk bending the aluminum plate if it was his car.
I see a ton of people use that as a jack point. Hmmm... one can only wonder lol
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      05-25-2018, 07:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskies7 View Post
I love it when people work on their own cars! I heard the oil shoots out pretty fast when you unplug the 17mm.

Also is it possible you can do some more technical tutorials like spark plugs, brakes/rotors, etc?

If you look through my channel I did a video on brake pads - super easy.
I'll be doing rotors and spark plugs as well.

I love maintaining cars and working on them...why not share it with the public!
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      05-27-2018, 04:46 PM   #16
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Tommy L Garage
what brand is your digital torque wrench ? I gave up on Craftsman branded - they all lied miserably, like 3 of those.

Nice wooden wheel stands - I just use regular ramps for the same purpose.
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      05-27-2018, 09:50 PM   #17
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EDIT

Last edited by Tommy L Garage; 12-30-2018 at 08:57 AM..
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      06-22-2018, 01:45 PM   #18
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My F10 used to gush oil as well, so when I did my M4's mid-CBS oil change (have only needed 1 so far), I replicated what I used to do with that one; hand-hold a large funnel between the drain plug and collection pan, since you never know exactly where it will land on the pan's top, aiming the gush for the funnel's wall to slow it down a bit. You only need to hold it there for a few seconds until the flow slows down significantly on its own.

Good tutorial!
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Last edited by maniz; 06-22-2018 at 01:53 PM..
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      06-22-2018, 01:58 PM   #19
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I changed my oil again this past weekend removing only the oil fill cap before the drain bolt. No gush at all, just smooth draining.
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      06-22-2018, 02:03 PM   #20
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Greatly appreciate this! As my maintenance is almost up; i'll be performing my own moving forward.
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      06-22-2018, 02:48 PM   #21
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I have to change my oil soon, Thanks
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      07-03-2018, 03:59 PM   #22
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you can loosen the oil fill cap so some air can get thru and then remove the plug.
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