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      12-17-2019, 11:15 PM   #1
N55Msport
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4th Blackstone report

4th UOA on Castrol 0W40. I'm nearing 16,000 miles in 10 months on a 5,000 mile (almost) OCI. Switching to LM 5W40 Molygen for the next 20,000 to monitor trends. Mileage is 90 percent highway and 10 percent hard driving on back roads.
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Last edited by N55Msport; 12-17-2019 at 11:20 PM.. Reason: Typo
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      12-18-2019, 07:34 AM   #2
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The Castol seems to be working very well for your engine. What are you hoping to gain by switching to LM?
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      12-18-2019, 09:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
The Castol seems to be working very well for your engine. What are you hoping to gain by switching to LM?
Gatorfast...
Because of a combination of trivial reasons which are mainly bulk purchase and diy related, I'm doing a one stop shop/product as I have found myself falling into the position of as my wife calls me, "Herr Mechaniker" maintaining 3 BMW's....The M3, a 335i, and a F30 328i for our daughter.

I just did a VCG job on the 335i and the UV additive with a blue light makes it super easy to identify leaks. The 328i along with the 335i will most likely will be needing OFHG replacements in the near future so the additive helps watching for leaks as they rack up miles.

FCP euro sells complete LM oil kits with Mann filters that I group into purchases with other parts, filters, belts, fluids etc.

I used LM for 42,000 miles on a 330ci e46 which had an amazingly clean lower end during an oil pan gasket job I did years ago. It also seemed to quiet the engine noise down before and after a vanos job on the same engine.

I've been using LM's Jectron fuel injector cleaner for several years that I toss into an order and from from a diy'er perspective, LM has built in pull spouts on their oil jugs, (no more peeling tinfoil pieces off bottles) and built in extendable fill tubes on their diff fluid, and gearbox bottles which is very convenient doing multiple fluid changes as I don't need seperate fluid exchange pumps etc.

Most if not all of our driving doesn't warrant a 0W40 (the first number) here in blazing hot Florida.

Lastly, Liqui Moly is BMW LL01 rated. (I do realize that it's only a marketing gimmick), but if I ever have a major issue and have to deal with BMWNA at least I can show that I've been using a LL01 oil.

Bill

Last edited by N55Msport; 12-18-2019 at 06:07 PM..
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      12-19-2019, 11:52 AM   #4
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Got ya, makes sense
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      12-22-2019, 12:41 AM   #5
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Id be interested to hear of your results with molygen. I debated between molygen and leichtlauf but went with leichtlauf. Molygen doesnt have LL01 certification, it says it complys with it. BMW would deny warranty for that.

Leichtlauf does have LL01 certification. That doesnt mean its better/worse than molygen but if it holds LL01 certification, its a decent oil...
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      12-22-2019, 02:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Id be interested to hear of your results with molygen. I debated between molygen and leichtlauf but went with leichtlauf. Molygen doesnt have LL01 certification, it says it complys with it. BMW would deny warranty for that.

Leichtlauf does have LL01 certification. That doesnt mean its better/worse than molygen but if it holds LL01 certification, its a decent oil...
3 blends pull up for the S55 when using the LM oil selector. 5W30 Special Tech, Leicthlauf 5W40, and Molygen 5W40. From what I read under "Approvals & Recommendations, all 3 list BMW LL-01 as well as ACEA A3 & B4.

The definition of "Approvals and Recomendations" in LM's verbiage is debatable for sure.

You'll be the first to see repeated results as I post directly here.

https://www.liqui-moly.us/en/product...672b16d015b9f/

Last edited by N55Msport; 12-22-2019 at 03:00 PM.. Reason: Typo
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      12-23-2019, 04:56 PM   #7
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UOA's are for trending (same lubricant) and should start at around 30-50k miles on it odometer.
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435i, MPPK, MPE, M-Sport Line
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      01-31-2020, 09:59 PM   #8
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Manual gearbox fluid analysis

Back during a 50,000 mile gearbox fluid change I had an issue while removing the drain plug. Halfway through the removal while turning with my fingers the plug started to bind eventually being stuck to the point where I had to re insert the hex drive and use a wrench to fully remove the plug.The plug ended up having a slight burr on it which caused a few shavings and specs of metal both on the plug and the threaded hole on the gearbox. I bought a new drain plug and again as the bolt went in halfway, it ended up binding a little bit but eventually worked past whatever was causing resistance. I wasnt that sure if the new plug pushed slightly damaged threads up into the gearbox or not so I decided to run the gearbox for a little over 10,000 miles and then do a second flush just to see if anthing odd showed up.
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