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      07-16-2018, 11:33 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empowered_one View Post
BMS clutch stop, will make thing so much smoother. Immediate clutch engagement...way smoother!!!
Do what he said. Works perfect.

Here's a link.

http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html

I took one of the pads out, feels perfect for me, but easy to change and install. No more high clutch.
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      07-16-2018, 11:45 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf80 View Post
You might be able to attribute this to my 6MT newb-ness, as this is my first manual car, but even after 2 months of ownership I cannot consistently shift from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration smoothly. Usually there is a small buck that happens during the shift that does NOT seem to unsettle the car, but its present nonetheless. I'm not sure if this is normal from just the fact that the throttle is being completely removed and then reapplied very fast or what, but I'm curious to know if other people have this issue or if its just my technique.

I know that this isn't that important of a skill, but I do have a few highway entrances by me that lack a ramp, its more of an abrupt entrance that require entering quickly from a standstill. For the record, after trying this a few times today I didn't smell any weird potential clutch burning smells when I got home, so I don't think any damage is being done there.

More importantly, I like to perfect things, and this is just another quest for perfection.

Other than this, I have no problems driving manual on this car.
I have the same issue getting that jerk between 1st and 2nd as someone else said it does take a little feathering to make it smooth. This too is my first manual and also about two months driving it. Rest of the gears are smooth
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      07-17-2018, 12:28 AM   #47
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Try keeping your left heel on the floor while working the clutch. It gives you another point of contact, allowing for more precise modulation. It works well for my size 13 feet at least
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      07-17-2018, 11:44 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by literbikes View Post
Do what he said. Works perfect.

Here's a link.

http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html

I took one of the pads out, feels perfect for me, but easy to change and install. No more high clutch.
Any idea on how much this stop takes off the length? Looks like a great option
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      07-21-2018, 01:14 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekh25 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by literbikes View Post
Do what he said. Works perfect.

Here's a link.

http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html

I took one of the pads out, feels perfect for me, but easy to change and install. No more high clutch.
Any idea on how much this stop takes off the length? Looks like a great option
~0.75 inch, makes a difference
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      07-21-2018, 11:48 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by literbikes View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekh25 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by literbikes View Post
Do what he said. Works perfect.

Here's a link.

http://www.burgertuning.com/clutch_stop_BMW.html

I took one of the pads out, feels perfect for me, but easy to change and install. No more high clutch.
Any idea on how much this stop takes off the length? Looks like a great option
~0.75 inch, makes a difference
That's what she said!
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      07-23-2018, 08:50 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankiebones View Post
I have an issue (that is not exactly well documented but I have spoken to several people who had the same issue) going 1 to 2.

When I launch hard and shift near or at the redline, it grinds into 2nd gear very badly. Its a synchros issue that I tried to have address by the dealership before I tuned (hex stage 1).

However, they could not duplicate the issue and neither could I when they were in the car. It is sporadic but it causes me to shift at 5k even when trying for my best 0-60.
My 2015 6MT did exactly the same thing. I hoped it was just a very early production thing, but looks like it isn’t.
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      07-23-2018, 02:30 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A418t81 View Post
My 2015 6MT did exactly the same thing. I hoped it was just a very early production thing, but looks like it isn’t.
I kinda grew up a little in the 2+ years Ive had the car and stopped launching...now I just take on ramps at 115 mph.
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      07-23-2018, 09:20 PM   #53
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Does the clutch stop cause any premature wear on the clutch? Makes me wonder why BMW just didn't make it "short throw" to begin with? I mean these are performance cars after all!
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      07-24-2018, 06:28 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3PedalMINI View Post
Does the clutch stop cause any premature wear on the clutch? Makes me wonder why BMW just didn't make it "short throw" to begin with? I mean these are performance cars after all!
No premature wear as the clutch stop will still allow you to fully depress the pedal past the disengagement point.
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      07-24-2018, 01:16 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3PedalMINI View Post
Does the clutch stop cause any premature wear on the clutch? Makes me wonder why BMW just didn't make it "short throw" to begin with? I mean these are performance cars after all!
Great question, i very much think so and hence the reason didn't get it.
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      07-24-2018, 01:21 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast View Post
No premature wear as the clutch stop will still allow you to fully depress the pedal past the disengagement point.
How does depressing clutch beyond engagement point help in preventing clutch wear? You are lowering the engagement point using clutch stop which is not the optimal point per BMW for clutch wear and tear
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      07-24-2018, 02:12 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boss2k View Post
How does depressing clutch beyond engagement point help in preventing clutch wear? You are lowering the engagement point using clutch stop which is not the optimal point per BMW for clutch wear and tear
I don't believe that the point, during pedal travel, when the clutch and flywheel engage/disengage (in stock form aside from the clutch stop) changes at all. The clutch stop only decreases pedal distance travel after the clutch disengages the flywheel (thus, eliminating the "dead space").

I also don't think BMW or a a big manufacturer would keep the engagement/disengagement window for the clutch and flywheel that close to either end of the pedal travel.
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      07-24-2018, 02:28 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boss2k View Post
How does depressing clutch beyond engagement point help in preventing clutch wear? You are lowering the engagement point using clutch stop which is not the optimal point per BMW for clutch wear and tear
The actual engagement point isnt affected by a clutch stop, it simply lessens the "dead" space after the clutch has been disengaged and before the pedal hits the floor. As long as the clutch is fully disengaged, whether the pedal is 1mm past the disengagement point or all the way to the floor, it will not matter in terms of clutch wear/slippage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Swee View Post
I don't believe that the point, during pedal travel, when the clutch and flywheel engage/disengage (in stock form aside from the clutch stop) changes at all. The clutch stop only decreases pedal distance travel after the clutch disengages the flywheel (thus, eliminating the "dead space").

I also don't think BMW or a a big manufacturer would keep the engagement/disengagement window for the clutch and flywheel that close to either end of the pedal travel.
This.
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      12-15-2018, 01:19 AM   #59
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I have been driving manuals for 35 years with 20 different cars. I have never experienced the "bucking" feeling on the 1-2 shift in any car like I did in my test drive in a 2019 M4 manual. I was set on getting the 6MT, but I don't think so much effort should be required just to get a smooth shift from 1-2. Test driving a DCT tomorrow.
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      12-15-2018, 09:31 AM   #60
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After having my M3 for 5 months i've learned to prevent the bucking either by shifting 1-2 with the rpms below 2500 during moderate driving or just wait a second for the rpms to drop/hold before releasing the clutch. During max acceleration you need to have it in at least MDM mode because when traction control intervenes it can feel like its bucking when its cutting power.

My brain is trained for this now so it becomes automatic. It makes the 6MT more special and an "event" to drive for me

Alan
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      12-15-2018, 11:14 AM   #61
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I used the BMS clutch stop for 6 years in my F30 with no ill effects. I transferred it to my F80 and never looked back. Besides practice and patience, I think that the best advice here is just to use 1st to get the car rolling and then use 2nd to really launch it. Trying to get the most out of 1st gear is actually counter productive if the goal is a smooth launch. My $0.02.
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      12-15-2018, 12:27 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveg. View Post
I have been driving manuals for 35 years with 20 different cars. I have never experienced the "bucking" feeling on the 1-2 shift in any car like I did in my test drive in a 2019 M4 manual. I was set on getting the 6MT, but I don't think so much effort should be required just to get a smooth shift from 1-2. Test driving a DCT tomorrow.
I have 3 6MT cars in my garage right now. They will all buck when cold. I have driven stick my whole life in various makes and models, the F80 M3 is as easy to drive as anything I have ever driven, however LIKE ALL CARS the transmission/clutch needs a little warm up, until that happens I release the clutch slowly and shift slowly. Once warm, shifts are easy and smooth.
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      12-15-2018, 02:44 PM   #63
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I,too, experienced this. I noticed if I shift at higher revs, the problem doesn't surface. I also noticed that this problem decrease as I put more miles on it, but I also have changed my MT fluid.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pheerIx View Post
I get an audible thud when the car starts to move in 1st or reverse when cold.
I also get a audible thud once I initially start rolling. I always believed it's the brake pads bonding with the rotors from rinsing the are.
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      12-15-2018, 05:41 PM   #64
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I think after all of this I've come to realize that its not the shift itself that's not smooth, is getting back on the gas. If I shift first and then don't give more gas, its smooth, adding gas is when it can get jerky. I think the throttle response is just too sensitive in 2nd gear at low RPM. Not as bad in Efficient mode.
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      12-15-2018, 07:08 PM   #65
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Clutch stop made all the difference for me. Before I felt that the clutch wouldn't allow for quick shifts as the clutch engagement was too slow. I wonder if this is the OEM design so that the transmission is protected and not abused?
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      12-15-2018, 07:43 PM   #66
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I took a test drive in a new M4 manual with a BMW factory rep today and he confirmed the 1-2 shift issue is the rev matching feature that makes the car "buck" between 1-2 shifts. To shift smoothly he suggested I start off in 1st and shift into 2nd gear in the 5-10 MPH range. Since the car has a long 2nd gear, full throttle would start in second gear and would accelerate nicely due to wide torque band. Not exactly my idea of spirited driving using a manual trans in an M4.
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