Another engine oil thread. Castrol Edge/Pennzoil/ Liqui Moly?

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by edycol

Go with regular Motul DCTF if high torque not available.

Thanks
The ECS rep got back to me again via email and said they are working to get the High Torque version available through their supplier but no ETA as of yet

[tkila]

I just did an oil change with Motul X-Cess Gen 2, the car seems to pull harder and engine is more responsive than previous X-Cess. I would NOT use LM Molygen anymore because just over 6K miles it will give an engine light warning due to low oil or computer is telling me I need an oil change soon. No issues with Motul X-Cess which you can keep running long pass 7500 miles without issues or engine light warning.

The only engine oil I would use is Motul X-Cess Gen 2 or Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec. Still I prefer the way the car pulls with X-Cess. I find the engine behaves differently with Pennzoil on different days, some days the car is sluggish and other days it pulls harder. X-Cess pulls hard on any given day.

[JamesGames]

Originally Posted by tkila

I just did an oil change with Motul X-Cess Gen 2, the car seems to pull harder and engine is more responsive than previous X-Cess. I would NOT use LM Molygen anymore because just over 6K miles it will give an engine light warning due to low oil or computer is telling me I need an oil change soon. No issues with Motul X-Cess which you can keep running long pass 7500 miles without issues or engine light warning.

The only engine oil I would use is Motul X-Cess Gen 2 or Pennzoil Platinum Euro Spec. Still I prefer the way the car pulls with X-Cess. I find the engine behaves differently with Pennzoil on different days, some days the car is sluggish and other days it pulls harder. X-Cess pulls hard on any given day.

No offense but... your whole post is filled with crazy nonsensical information.

pulling harder off the revised X-cess is all in your head.. that butt dyno can't measure that. The engine oil change meter is based on how you drive, miles, hours on oil, startups, stuff of that nature usually. It doesn't analyze the type / quality of oil you filled and then determines if you can go on extending the oil changes.

This is the ultimate example of a placebo effect my friend. Are X-cess / Pennzoil better than LM to me? Yes. But will they create the difference you say on the butt dyno? Nope.. Will they make a big difference in UOA? Probably not either...

[tkila]

Not saying engine oil increases power but allows that power to be more accessible in the rev range because the engine flows better with the new oil. It's like attaching a slightly lighter flywheel.

Engine builds up speed better with new Motul, more responsive engine means more engaging drive. I feel I have access to that power faster.

[ONEof500]

Originally Posted by edycol

Go with regular Motul DCTF if high torque not available.

Can you use this stuff in a dct? I thought the "f" wasnt needed or wanted in our dct?

Motul Gear Competition 75W140 1L (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N16X22I...UTF8&psc=1

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by ONEof500

Can you use this stuff in a dct? I thought the "f" wasnt needed or wanted in our dct?

Motul Gear Competition 75W140 1L (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N16X22I...UTF8&psc=1

For DCT fluid, use this:

https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/high-torque-dctf

[ONEof500]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

For DCT fluid, use this:

https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/high-torque-dctf

Not readily available

[TopJimmy]

I ordered Motul High Torque DCTF from Driftshop and it arrived in 2 days UPS'd from France. My credit card doesn't charge conversion so I paid in Euros, but PayPal can convert for a small fee.

https://www.driftshop.com/motul-high...ssion-oil.html

[TopJimmy]

Triple oil change done today...engine, 6-speed trans and the rear diff. I'm finishing my switch over to all Motul oils...

Engine oil was Motul X-cess 8100 Gen2 5w40, and after 4K of E85 and 20 dragstrip runs it's going for a Blackstone+TBN. My ECS magnet plug had very little dust collected this time. I was concerned after I had an injector failure and the magnet showed a large crown of dust with that oil change (done with the injector repair). Metal dust has really decreased, so it's likely I had a little ring wear from the injector failure, but not bearing wear. This fill up was 7L of Motul 8100 again (oil cooler was sucked out too).

The 6-speed oil was Red Line DCTF, which had trouble with my synchros not syncing 1st-into-2nd when drag racing got it really hot (multiple runs). I don't have a magnet there yet but have a Dimple ordered. After 15K miles the trans oil was still golden. I used the last of the old RL bottle as a flush out, then filled the gearbox with 1.4L of Motul High Torque DCTF., and hopefully this Motul performs better at the strip.

Diff had Red Line 75W110 gear oil and my ECS magnet had a BALL of metal dust after 15K miles. I used the old leftover RL as a flush and filled with 1.1L of Motul Gear Comp 75W140. It's smurf blue and thick and we'll see what happens with the magnet next time.

I think I'll do a triple change again next 3-4K depending on what Blackstone says, and keep checking my magnets.

[SCS55]

All Motul going into the M3 today.
Aside from the brake flush I did last month with ATE 200, I'm going all Motul.
6 speed manual gearbox Motul 75W90,
Engine 5W40 X-cess Gen 2,
Rear differential Gear Competition 75W140.

I thought Liqui Molygen Green was cool, I'm digging the Smurf Blue rear Diff fluid!

[kyrix1st]

Originally Posted by tkila

Not saying engine oil increases power but allows that power to be more accessible in the rev range because the engine flows better with the new oil. It's like attaching a slightly lighter flywheel.

Engine builds up speed better with new Motul, more responsive engine means more engaging drive. I feel I have access to that power faster.

Probably has more to do with reduced friction from fresh engine oil than anything else.

The only time I felt a car made ~10 more hp throughout the rev range was when I used 300V 15w50 on my E92 M3, now that oil is full of anti-friction additives. Goes away quickly after about 500km of track miles though.

[JamesGames]

Originally Posted by kyrix1st

Probably has more to do with reduced friction from fresh engine oil than anything else.

The only time I felt a car made ~10 more hp throughout the rev range was when I used 300V 15w50 on my E92 M3, now that oil is full of anti-friction additives. Goes away quickly after about 500km of track miles though.

That oil is thinner than the 10w60.. That alone can contribute.

I still believe "feeling" more horsepower after an oil change is all placebo.

[edycol]

HTHS!
Lower HTHS=less parasitic loss.

[iDriftYou]

I'm probably going to get a lot of hate for this but I do not trust the BMW factory oil recommend for the F80, just like my C7 z06 factory oil was 0w-30, on the track I would go into limp mode on the second lap, not fun. Factory oil weight is more to get the MPG rating listed rather than engine protection. I've religiously stuck with Motul 15w-50 for the last 5 oil changes and I don't plan on switching anytime soon. Trans and diff are both Motul (6MT). My car sees about 12-24 track days per year and it's also my daily driver, 60 miles a day. I bought the car new, it was tuned at 1300 miles, has been on full e85 RK tune for the passed 2 years, just ticked 62k miles today. I have nothing but good things to say about motul, car just seems happier running on motul. Here is my backstone report for the last 5 oil changes.

[kyrix1st]

Originally Posted by JamesGames

That oil is thinner than the 10w60.. That alone can contribute.

I still believe "feeling" more horsepower after an oil change is all placebo.

300V 15w50 HTHS is higher than BMW TT 10w60 @150C.
This "feel" does not come with every engine oil I use, mostly Motul or Redline.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by iDriftYou

I'm probably going to get a lot of hate for this but I do not trust the BMW factory oil recommend for the F80, just like my C7 z06 factory oil was 0w-30, on the track I would go into limp mode on the second lap, not fun. Factory oil weight is more to get the MPG rating listed rather than engine protection. I've religiously stuck with Motul 15w-50 for the last 5 oil changes and I don't plan on switching anytime soon. Trans and diff are both Motul (6MT). My car sees about 12-24 track days per year and it's also my daily driver, 60 miles a day. I bought the car new, it was tuned at 1300 miles, has been on full e85 RK tune for the passed 2 years, just ticked 62k miles today. I have nothing but good things to say about motul, car just seems happier running on motul. Here is my backstone report for the last 5 oil changes.

Same here, all Motul. Any shavings/specks of metal in your rear diff with Motul 75W140?

[iDriftYou]

Originally Posted by SCS55

Same here, all Motul. Any shavings/specks of metal in your rear diff with Motul 75W140?

I do my trans and diff oil at 25-30k miles, I've yet to run into dirty trans or diff fluid after swapping to motul, factory oil was cooked at 18k miles

[edycol]

Originally Posted by iDriftYou

I'm probably going to get a lot of hate for this but I do not trust the BMW factory oil recommend for the F80, just like my C7 z06 factory oil was 0w-30, on the track I would go into limp mode on the second lap, not fun. Factory oil weight is more to get the MPG rating listed rather than engine protection. I've religiously stuck with Motul 15w-50 for the last 5 oil changes and I don't plan on switching anytime soon. Trans and diff are both Motul (6MT). My car sees about 12-24 track days per year and it's also my daily driver, 60 miles a day. I bought the car new, it was tuned at 1300 miles, has been on full e85 RK tune for the passed 2 years, just ticked 62k miles today. I have nothing but good things to say about motul, car just seems happier running on motul. Here is my backstone report for the last 5 oil changes.

You need to start doing TBN and TAN to get full picture how oil performs.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by iDriftYou

I do my trans and diff oil at 25-30k miles, I've yet to run into dirty trans or diff fluid after swapping to motul, factory oil was cooked at 18k miles

Color won't tell you much. You need to do TAN analysis to see if there is oxidation.

[hellokitty]

+1 for Motul 300V. Now that FCP Euro carries it with lifetime warranty, it's a no brainer to use it for Stage 2 and/or E85 tuned cars. Just make sure to change it out every few thousand miles if running on E85.

[iDriftYou]

Originally Posted by edycol

You need to start doing TBN and TAN to get full picture how oil performs.

I might do the TBN this coming oil change but I'm honestly not worried about oxidation in the oil, Blackstone stated I should do a 5k mile oil change on 300v which I simply won't do, 3-4K miles is my limit especially with the way this car is driven, a couple hundred dollars every 3 months doesn't bother me.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by iDriftYou

I might do the TBN this coming oil change but I'm honestly not worried about oxidation in the oil, Blackstone stated I should do a 5k mile oil change on 300v which I simply won't do, 3-4K miles is my limit especially with the way this car is driven, a couple hundred dollars every 3 months doesn't bother me.

300V is full of esters and those oils oxidize like crazy. The Blackstone always say to run longer OCI, but without TAN you really don't know where you stand.
For specific track or racing oils TAN should be always run.