Coilover Lubricant?

[MetalsMan]

Good Morning Guys,
I've got some JRZ RS 2's and TC Kline Camber Plates. With the open design of the RS 2's and camber plates, there will inevitably be some dirt, dust, etc gather around some of the contact points. Notably the lower spring perch where the spring rotates some and where the strut shaft passes through the camber plate bearing. I've noticed some binding that causes some popping noises in slow speed turns, especially turning up onto a curbed drive.
Is there any type of dry lube/grease that any of you have used successfully to keep all for these parts rotating on top of, through, between etc gracefully without resistance due to dirt and or small debris?

Thanks

[VChenz]

You probably want something like this instead.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...saAsyEEALw_wcB

Or

https://scalesuspension.com/shop/en/...t-65mm-id.html

[MetalsMan]

Originally Posted by VChenz

You probably want something like this instead.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...saAsyEEALw_wcB

Or

https://scalesuspension.com/shop/en/...t-65mm-id.html

Thank you so much my friend.

[MetalsMan]

Should I use these only on the lower perch or both top and bottom?

[VChenz]

I dont have an answer for that but I will say the stock BMW suspension only rotates at the top (strut mount has a built in bearing) so I would assume you only need it at the top. The bottom portion is fixed with no allowance for movement.

Best to ask JRZ or TC KLINE support.

[MetalsMan]

Thanks - I found another set on Summit made for Eibach springs that have the same ID as the Hyperco springs I have, so those may be a tighter fit on the spring perch.

[MetalsMan]

My JRZ RS Two setup has a set of helper springs up front, which basically act as a spacer as they are fully compressed all of the time. I placed thrust bearings between the lower perch and the helper spring and then between the helper spring and the main coil in an effort to give the best maneuverability for all of the pieces. Before driving it struck me, that I just added more "loose" moving parts to the front suspension thus it may be noisy.

Driving it the first time today, super noisy. May have to remove the thrust bearings and simply place one set on each side on the top of the coil between it and the camber plate.

The MacPherson style set up requires the whole coilover system to rotate, so when any dirt/debris works its way between the associated springs, perches, camber plates etc, it's going to cause some parts to not move gracefully and bind up.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by VChenz

I dont have an answer for that but I will say the stock BMW suspension only rotates at the top (strut mount has a built in bearing) so I would assume you only need it at the top. The bottom portion is fixed with no allowance for movement.

Best to ask JRZ or TC KLINE support.

A coil spring twists as it compresses and that’s why Torrington bearings (require service/cleaning) and thrust sheets (service/cleaning free) are used. The front upper strut mount has a bearing so the strut can rotate with the wheels/hub as you turn the steering wheel.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

My JRZ RS Two setup has a set of helper springs up front, which basically act as a spacer as they are fully compressed all of the time. I placed thrust bearings between the lower perch and the helper spring and then between the helper spring and the main coil in an effort to give the best maneuverability for all of the pieces. Before driving it struck me, that I just added more "loose" moving parts to the front suspension thus it may be noisy.

Driving it the first time today, super noisy. May have to remove the thrust bearings and simply place one set on each side on the top of the coil between it and the camber plate.

The MacPherson style set up requires the whole coilover system to rotate, so when any dirt/debris works its way between the associated springs, perches, camber plates etc, it's going to cause some parts to not move gracefully and bind up.

Torrington bearings and thrust sheets add zero noise to a suspension setup. Thrust/Torrington bearings will require routine maintenance to keep them clean and running smoothly. I’ve used both types on Moton, JRZ and MCS suspension setups for close to two decades. JRZs can be quite noisy and it’s due to their internals, not the main springs, not the helper or tender springs, not the camber plates, not the sway bar links, etc. Rebuilding them will eliminate the noise but there’s no guarantee it won’t return with mileage. Also, the thrust bearing on a camber plate can get noisy due to wear but that should be easy to identify/eliminate as the cause.

[MetalsMan]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Torrington bearings and thrust sheets add zero noise to a suspension setup. Thrust/Torrington bearings will require routine maintenance to keep them clean and running smoothly. I’ve used both types on Moton, JRZ and MCS suspension setups for close to two decades. JRZs can be quite noisy and it’s due to their internals, not the main springs, not the helper or tender springs, not the camber plates, not the sway bar links, etc. Rebuilding them will eliminate the noise but there’s no guarantee it won’t return with mileage. Also, the thrust bearing on a camber plate can get noisy due to wear but that should be easy to identify/eliminate as the cause.

Appreciate the input. I drover around last night a bit and the noise seemed to be less intrusive. The entire setups may have finally settled in. I will try some spirited driving tonight and check again. I will also check into those Torrington bearings.

What are your thoughts and doing away with the helper springs up front? really seem to be only acting as a spacer at the moment. Can you tell me more about the JRZ setups making more noise due to the internals?? How to like the MCS systems compared to the JRZ?

Thanks

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

Appreciate the input. I drover around last night a bit and the noise seemed to be less intrusive. The entire setups may have finally settled in. I will try some spirited driving tonight and check again. I will also check into those Torrington bearings.

What are your thoughts and doing away with the helper springs up front? really seem to be only acting as a spacer at the moment. Can you tell me more about the JRZ setups making more noise due to the internals?? How to like the MCS systems compared to the JRZ?

Thanks

I’d recommend thrust sheets over Torrington bearings unless you routinely clean the Torrington bearings.

The JRZ RS non-reservoir dampers (three versions so far) have all had the potential to make noise. I’ve had two RS1 setups and both have been quiet (except for normal higher-end dampers - you’re forcing fluid thru orifices). It’s likely due to the valves opening and then “slamming“ shut. No comparison between my JRZ and three MCS setups. I’m about to install my forth MCS setup.

Tender springs help to reduce the main spring rate. You probably still get a benefit from the tender spring on large rebound-compression cycles. I personally do not use tender springs but I do use helper springs to hold the main spring in place when the suspension is at full droop.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by MetalsMan

My JRZ RS Two setup has a set of helper springs up front, which basically act as a spacer as they are fully compressed all of the time. I placed thrust bearings between the lower perch and the helper spring and then between the helper spring and the main coil in an effort to give the best maneuverability for all of the pieces. Before driving it struck me, that I just added more "loose" moving parts to the front suspension thus it may be noisy.

Driving it the first time today, super noisy. May have to remove the thrust bearings and simply place one set on each side on the top of the coil between it and the camber plate.

The MacPherson style set up requires the whole coilover system to rotate, so when any dirt/debris works its way between the associated springs, perches, camber plates etc, it's going to cause some parts to not move gracefully and bind up.

I have the same set up as you and I place the thrust bearings at the top since there is less debris that gets kicked up there. In the top position, I find I don't have to clean them as often as when I was running them at the bottom.

[MetalsMan]

Originally Posted by x.shell

I have the same set up as you and I place the thrust bearings at the top since there is less debris that gets kicked up there. In the top position, I find I don't have to clean them as often as when I was running them at the bottom.

Yep, I posed that question to the JRZ stateside contact and they responded quickly and said to put it in the perch. Then JRZ responded 3 days later saying best to put it up top like you did for the same reason. I guess I'll do so when it's time to clean them