Official F8X Track Alignment Specifications

[F80Speed77]

I'm just going to say yes because BMW gives you so little from the factory. I'd also look into getting the camber shims from Fall Line Motorsports for the rear of the car because that's a little low was well. I think a good aggressive street setup would be.

Front: -2.5 to -3.0
Rear: -1.5 to -2.0

I will say adding camber on factory wheels (without spacers) makes the car look a bit silly with how much the tires tuck in haha so you'll want spacers too.

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by F80Speed77

I'm just going to say yes because BMW gives you so little from the factory. I'd also look into getting the camber shims from Fall Line Motorsports for the rear of the car because that's a little low was well. I think a good aggressive street setup would be.

Front: -2.5 to -3.0
Rear: -1.5 to -2.0

I will say adding camber on factory wheels (without spacers) makes the car look a bit silly with how much the tires tuck in haha so you'll want spacers too.

Installed the fall line camber shims in the rear - it really helps stabilize the alignment. Also removed the toe link eccentric bolts.

Prior to this, every time I went to the alignment shop, different values.

One thing to note, maxing out with the 4 mm camber shims nets you -2.1° with factory suspension ride height.

[F80Speed77]

Ooo what did you use for the toe link eccentrics? My shop and I are having issues getting enough ride height dialed in (still on factory toe arms) to get enough toe in for the rear.

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by F80Speed77

Ooo what did you use for the toe link eccentrics? My shop and I are having issues getting enough ride height dialed in (still on factory toe arms) to get enough toe in for the rear.

Fall line toe arms, adjustability there lets you remove the eccentric. And don’t know any other way to get appropriate toe settings when going max negative camber in the rear.

[Suds]

I believe what you are seeing is track rubber that built up on your tire.

This is after driving 50 miles on the way home from the track, most of the track rubber is gone on my drivers front but not all.

I’m also starting to cord the inside of the tire.

Originally Posted by aswy6

My both front and rear should be at -1.8 and i noticed that weirdness at the front only. Rears are wearing fine for me. Also i went to track this weekend and after driving home for around 100 miles, i noticed that the whole tire is looking bubbly (as expected after track day) but that spot on the inner side is clean in just 100 miles.

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by Suds

I believe what you are seeing is track rubber that built up on your tire.

This is after driving 50 miles on the way home from the track, most of the track rubber is gone on my drivers front but not all.

I’m also starting to cord the inside of the tire.

Did you flip them at all? Outside looks to have much more life left. I also had front inside wearing quickly. Driver side front inside temperature was higher than others when I tried an IR thermometer.

[Suds]

These have 8 track days on them and at least 1500 road miles. I never flipped them, the shops I go to are too legit to flip a worn tire.
The outside shoulder on these tires is nearly gone. I was really surprised when I pulled up in my driveway, cranked the front wheels and found the front tires corded on the inside. Actually I got 4 more track days out of these tires than I thought I would.

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

Did you flip them at all? Outside looks to have much more life left. I also had front inside wearing quickly. Driver side front inside temperature was higher than others when I tried an IR thermometer.

[Pic18]

Originally Posted by Suds

These have 8 track days on them and at least 1500 road miles. I never flipped them, the shops I go to are too legit to flip a worn tire.
The outside shoulder on these tires is nearly gone. I was really surprised when I pulled up in my driveway, cranked the front wheels and found the front tires corded on the inside. Actually I got 4 more track days out of these tires than I thought I would.

What tire pressure are you running? almost seems like it is too low as the outsides are worn while the center looks fairly good.

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by Suds

These have 8 track days on them and at least 1500 road miles. I never flipped them, the shops I go to are too legit to flip a worn tire.
The outside shoulder on these tires is nearly gone. I was really surprised when I pulled up in my driveway, cranked the front wheels and found the front tires corded on the inside. Actually I got 4 more track days out of these tires than I thought I would.

Yeah I bring them to a low key "no question asked" shop to flip.

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by Suds

I believe what you are seeing is track rubber that built up on your tire.

This is after driving 50 miles on the way home from the track, most of the track rubber is gone on my drivers front but not all.

I’m also starting to cord the inside of the tire.

Also burning through front tires.

I’ve started to change camber settings when I get to the track. New tires going on tomorrow for the weekend, and a 400 mile one-way trip to Laguna. We’ll see how this goes with even tire wear - fingers crossed.

Also, when changing for the street, I am now flipping the ground control upper plate to get to around -1.8° for the Street and very slight toe in.

Depending on the tires at the track, between -3.2° and -4.0° And about 1/8” toe out.

No change in the toe settings, this is all due to camber change

[Suds]

I was playing with different tire pressures on this set, understand I did 7 track days over 6 weekends. I used pressures that ranged from 34 to 38 psi hot trying to find what felt Good and timed well.

Originally Posted by Pic18

What tire pressure are you running? almost seems like it is too low as the outsides are worn while the center looks fairly good.

[dvq]

Originally Posted by fanatic1

Also burning through front tires.

I’ve started to change camber settings when I get to the track. New tires going on tomorrow for the weekend, and a 400 mile one-way trip to Laguna. We’ll see how this goes with even tire wear - fingers crossed.

Also, when changing for the street, I am now flipping the ground control upper plate to get to around -1.8° for the Street and very slight toe in.

Depending on the tires at the track, between -3.2° and -4.0° And about 1/8” toe out.

No change in the toe settings, this is all due to camber change

SpeedSF? Which days and what run group?

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by dvq

SpeedSF? Which days and what run group?

Signed up for Saturday and trying to get up in time for Friday as well. Can’t remember the run groups, but think it was the time cut off at 1:42 or something like that

[dvq]

Originally Posted by fanatic1

Signed up for Saturday and trying to get up in time for Friday as well. Can’t remember the run groups, but think it was the time cut off at 1:42 or something like that

Ah okay yeah I see you in open passing 2 -- I'll be there on Saturday as well in the mixed group. If you see me out in the paddock (Sakhir Orange M4 Comp) drop by and say hi!

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by dvq

Ah okay yeah I see you in open passing 2 -- I'll be there on Saturday as well in the mixed group. If you see me out in the paddock (Sakhir Orange M4 Comp) drop by and say hi!

Awesome! For sure will look for you in the paddock.

Have not run with this group in a long time, but looks like relatively low car counts.

[Bimmer Nerd]

KW V3
GC Camber Plates

-2.3 Front
1/16 toe in

-2.3 Rear
1/8 toe in

967 Front Driver
947
907 Rear Driver
886

[Yassssm4]

I just installed camber plates and have -3.7 on the front. Rear is at -2.0 and installing some toe arms to achieve -2.4. When I drive in the freeway my steering is slightly to the left. So car is moving right. Is there a way I can fix this? Don’t want to run less camber but just wondering if there is any possible solutions. Didn’t happen before the plates were installed

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by Yassssm4

I just installed camber plates and have -3.7 on the front. Rear is at -2.0 and installing some toe arms to achieve -2.4. When I drive in the freeway my steering is slightly to the left. So car is moving right. Is there a way I can fix this? Don’t want to run less camber but just wondering if there is any possible solutions. Didn’t happen before the plates were installed

That’s aggressive settings for the street, but I’m pretty close at -3.4° front and street manners are pretty good, but not gonna be close to OEM.

Are you running zero toe at the front?

[BetrayMyWord]

Originally Posted by Yassssm4

I just installed camber plates and have -3.7 on the front. Rear is at -2.0 and installing some toe arms to achieve -2.4. When I drive in the freeway my steering is slightly to the left. So car is moving right. Is there a way I can fix this? Don’t want to run less camber but just wondering if there is any possible solutions. Didn’t happen before the plates were installed

That's just probably due to a poorly done alignment job.

[LYTSOUT]

Are you guys doing weighted alignments? The owner of my indy shop (who used to work for BMW) says that BMW recommends that weights be in the car during an alignment, something like 150lbs in each front seat and 60lbs in the trunk or whatever.

After a bit of research (and a post in the suspension subforum), I'm realizing that this is a real thing, but it's unclear how important it is, especially for street vs track.

So are you guys doing it? Since I'm almost always alone in the car, I'm thinking I may have him put 150lbs in the driver seat, adjust the ride height of the MP HAS he just installed, and align it after that. But if the weights all over the car per BMW's rec is really a useful thing, I may have him do that.

So what are y'all doing with regards to weights??

[dvas]

Originally Posted by LYTSOUT

Are you guys doing weighted alignments? The owner of my indy shop (who used to work for BMW) says that BMW recommends that weights be in the car during an alignment, something like 150lbs in each front seat and 60lbs in the trunk or whatever.

After a bit of research (and a post in the suspension subforum), I'm realizing that this is a real thing, but it's unclear how important it is, especially for street vs track.

So are you guys doing it? Since I'm almost always alone in the car, I'm thinking I may have him put 150lbs in the driver seat, adjust the ride height of the MP HAS he just installed, and align it after that. But if the weights all over the car per BMW's rec is really a useful thing, I may have him do that.

So what are y'all doing with regards to weights??

I have my race shop do a corner balance and alignment each spring to prep for the track season. We just put 150lbs in the drivers seat to simulate my sitting there and 3/4 of gas. No additional weights anywhere as I mostly drive by myself (occasionally with a student) on track and the car is empty.

[bimmerboyE92]

We don’t bother adding weights for a “neutral” alignment on the f80 because it sees multiple drivers and has a passenger often on track. On my corner balanced e36 we simulate driver weight.