01-17-2020, 01:49 PM | #23 | |
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01-17-2020, 02:24 PM | #24 | |
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I respect everyone's different choice. It's just that for some of us that potential SCH is still expensive and a headache, still want to keep warranty, want to keep the car longer, or simply fine with factory power level driving at track. |
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01-17-2020, 02:28 PM | #25 | |
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IIRC, PrimeBMW's E46 M3 race car (V8) is about 3100lb with a driver and pushes 450whp or so... and it's ridiculously fast. So I can get a rough estimate of how fast that GT4 might be. |
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01-17-2020, 02:52 PM | #26 | |
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01-17-2020, 02:52 PM | #27 | |
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MyFragileHalogen448.50 |
01-17-2020, 03:38 PM | #28 |
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Reliable
Super reliable "knock on wood." Except for that one time at (BRP) the Drivetrain Malfunction CEL came on and went in limp mode. I turned it on and off and it hasn't happen ever since. Weird/glitch. Knowing my computer will prevent it from over revving and destroying the motor is comforting to me. One E92 M3 blown motor at CVR is enough to last a lifetime.
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horsepower_and_hounds1836.00 |
01-17-2020, 07:55 PM | #29 | |
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I guess big speed goes with big $$$ all the time. |
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01-20-2020, 12:48 AM | #30 |
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Yeah all that celeron and MMX and things. But it's still going thing. It turned out a cpu company has a dedicated overclock research team and tom's hardware recently visited the lab. The team actually gave them some tips on safe overclocking in voltage range in which tom's hardware didn't considered as safe. That would be nice car manufacturers also share such tips on tuning as well since there are voiding warranty anyways!
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01-20-2020, 12:55 AM | #31 | |
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Yeah only cheaper way I can think of is a lightweight track toy with motorcycle engine. Portland has a company that makes one something like ~1000lbs with 400hp and its insanely fast. Not every track day allows it though. |
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01-20-2020, 01:18 PM | #32 | |
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That being said I have toyed with building up an Exocet (Miata based kit car) and stuffing a v8 into it, stuffing v8 into current Sm, or getting an atom. First things first, I need to close the gaps in my driving and race craft in SM before thinking about those faster toys. |
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MyFragileHalogen448.50 |
01-22-2020, 10:34 PM | #33 |
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I agree with that statement. Im Stage 2, 2 days at the track, and the biggest thing I am cautious about is downshifts. Im not an amazing driver at the track, so I brake a little earlier, and am very cautious about revs. Maybe if I get a bit more aggressive I will address crank hub, but for now it wont keep me up at night.
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01-23-2020, 03:13 PM | #34 | |
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Being from the bay area, would be interested to hear your experience in turn 11 at Laguna in second gear without torque reduction. |
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01-23-2020, 07:52 PM | #35 | |
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I've seen 1 person recommend 20% reduction by gear for 1st - 4th. |
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01-31-2020, 08:30 PM | #36 |
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Spun my hub the first time out at LRP with a VF Stage 1 tune. Call it luck of the draw but it failed within 800 miles of getting the tune installed. I believe the heavy torque the tune produce down low didn't help the situation.
Since then I'm on a new engine with CBC with a Stage 2 Apline tune. (basically a GTS tune) Compared to VF this tune is much more linear in its power delivery. No issues after ten or so track events. Knock on Wood. I also no longer have the transmission shift setting at it's most aggressive. I keep it in the second setting. I believe abrupt changes to the drivetrain may contribute to SCB. Who knows though. In the video below you'll notice I wasn't being hard on the engine at all. |
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02-14-2020, 12:12 PM | #37 |
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Hey guys, I had my car tuned on BM3. Initially stage 1, then stage 2 with downpipes. We did countless street logs and revisions, and everything was fine on the street. However both times I get to the track (Stage 1 and Stage 2 flash), the car immediately goes into drivetrain malfunction within the first 1-2 laps in the first session cutting boost completely and limiting RPM to about 4K, just enough to limp it on track. I turn the car off, clear any codes it has, and the car will continue to boost, however it will progressively pull a noticeable amount of power as the car gets hotter after each lap and eventually begin to cut power towards the end of straights. I'm curious if anyone had a similar problem. Any input is appreciated.
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02-14-2020, 03:24 PM | #38 | |
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02-14-2020, 03:25 PM | #39 | ||
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02-24-2020, 08:19 AM | #40 | |
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02-25-2020, 02:41 AM | #41 |
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then stage 1 tunes' power levels being not too far from GTS power level probably tells us something
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02-26-2020, 12:58 AM | #42 |
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02-26-2020, 12:05 PM | #43 |
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Misfires/codes.
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02-29-2020, 04:07 PM | #44 |
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I've had successful hot session in FL with the BM3 CS+ tune at Homestead.
I've recently had to do plugs. OEM Bosch only lasted about 14k miles before I get stuttering on hard acceleration. Running colder NGKs. Plugs make a big difference. Just installed DPs and have been running the BM3 GTS tune for awhile. The GTS tune is much more linear to drive over the CS+. Going to leave the GTS tune for the next track time, hopefully in April. Also on BM3, there is a Max Cool option, which reduces water coolant targets by 10 Celsius. Have been running this on the street and it was noticeable on the water temp gauge. Summer is coming, so every little bit helps. |
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