Detailers: INITIAL Silverstone leather treatment and then maintenance suggestions

[///M-Furby]

What about Z-10 Leather for black full merino leather

[pucsicsal]

Hi guys, I know this is an old thread but I felt I needed to jump in..

Lots of great info and pics, but also plenty of misinformation and bad advice that people will see. For example, someone linked to that auto detailing affiliate site that suggests you use Simple green for your interior lol! (even IF it works, do you want your M3 smelling like simple green?! Clearly some people out there have some low standards!

Ok first up, and the only advice really needed: if your leather in your M3 or M4 is shiny, it means it's already not in an ideal shape. Get it back to factory matte asap! Here is the best way, which is Leatherique. I've tried everything, and this is the only thing worthy of our cars. Not to mention it actually smells like the leather in our cars, not some synthetic Zaino or Chemical guys crap (Different model of M, same process. The only thread you need https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=768340)

- Some other notes from my years of trial and error:

- If you're in a hurry, the Leather Masters vital and strong/soft cleaner are great. Use the soft cleaner on new cars. Keeps things looking new.

- Don't use any "protectant" cream, neither from Leather Master, nor from other high tech companies that promote "ceramic" coating your leather. That stuff will develop a sheen over the years and block other compounds like Leatherique from penetrating properly. Not very good looking. If you unfortunately stumbled into this though or a previous owner did like in my case, then the remedy is leatherique rejuvinator for at least 3 days in the sun, followed by pristine clean, which will really soften the leather up. Then use 50/50 rubbing alcohol with water on a MF rag, which should take that ceramic coating crap right off. Don't worry when you see your leather develop instantly a matte color from the alcohol. Just go over it with pristine clean or another conditioner of your choice and it'll all be back.

- Zaino stuff has a terrible smell. Some people like it, but it smells so fake and artificial it has no business being used in a high end car. Great for making the bonded leather seats in your Nissan smell a bit more high end, that's about it.

- Leather conditioner you buy at Napa is all useless, I don't care what it is. Armor-all, meguires, lexol. Avoid. Most don't do anything, except make your leather shiny.

- Klasse Cleaner/ Protectant in the small red bottle is brilliant for vinyl and plastic that you want a soft eggshell sheen on, like the plastic around the seats and trim pieces outside, but do not use it on leather. Also, do not use on dashes. You don't want any sheen on the dash, just use water or a cleaner on there. No need to add UV protection to dashes, your windshield already blocks 99% UV.

- SwissVax leather cleaner is an excellent *strong* leather cleaner. Useful for cleaning steering wheels in a pinch to get the matte color back. Of course leatherique is the best treatment for steering wheels. The swiss cleaner is also my favorite leather cleaner. Just don't let it soak too long and don't brush too hard. No smell. Swisxvax leather milk I don't like. It is a petroloeum based product, or at least it sure smells like it, and it doesn't do a good enough job conditioning leather. Doesn't make anything softer at all. IF you use it, it goes on shiny but dries to a complete matte finish in 24 hours or so which is great.

- BMW Genuine leather care oil I don't like. The new stuff that comes in a white bottle has a UV protectant in it, and should only be used for convertibles. The reason is, it leaves a bit of a shine. On full napa leather, like 7 series, it may soak itself in completely in a day or so. But even on our Merino/Novillo leather it does soften leather substantially. The only place I use this leather conditioner is the top of the rear seats and the rear headrests because they get a lot of sun and get extremely got. Find a 7 year old car or older and check the leather up there, will be rock hard lol.

- Don't use baby oil or anything like that on leather. Leather doesn't need oil, silicone, wax or anything else on it. Leatherette and leather masters and other top-shelf products all use natural ingredients that originally was in the leather such as proteins, collegian and natural oils.

Hope that helps, I could talk on this subject for days. I have gone through many german cars with nice leather, and felt I needed to save some of you guys some heartache and time.

Also, please learn how to properly sit in your cars!! So you don't scuff the side bolters! My trick is I put my right foot in and then help propel my body into the car with my LEFT hand on the bottom door sill holding most of my weight up and allowing me to position my arse where I want it. My right hand is on the wheel to help. That's the best way I use for low sports cars and supercars when I'm lucky enough to ride in one. I learned the trick from Manny Koshbin.

Here's how my M car looks for reference, it's a 2011. Not bad. Also, the E9X has stiffer leather, so it's even more important to take care of your leather early on in the F8X and higher end cars like Nappa in the 7 or 8 series etc.

[M4J0R T0M]

I thought it might be better to resurrect this old thread as opposed to making a new one since the topic is directly related.

I'm getting my M3 next week, with SS interior and it looks to be in great shape with the exception of the front of the driver seat base. It's got a yellow tint to it. I have only seen pics so I'm not sure if it's staining or discoloration or what. The previous owner purchased an interior protection plan and she used it for some kind of leather refinish once before but I'm not sure if it was the same place or what the process was. Not withstanding that info, what do you think I should do to get rid of the yellowing on this seat as well as protect it from further damage?

Untitled by Tom Francis, on Flickr

[strada]

Lots of info here. To be honest, like exercise, I think consistency means more than special BS.

I used to use Leather Masters for my old G35 with wheat/ivory leather. Owned it for 11 years - aside from wear on drivers bolster, the rest of leather looked damn near factory fresh since it wasn't sat on all that much with annual thorough cleaning and pretty minimal maintenance between.

I have SS interior now. I bought car used with 14k mi, all leather aside from drivers seat was basically brand new - unworn. Drivers was 9/10. Had some soiling of drivers armrest and center armrest. Ran it through 24hr Leatherique - worked great, absolutely overkill for the essentially new leather on the rest of the car.

Now I use Sonax Leather foam as needed and usually every 1-2mo during washes. I'm not heavy or large so I can avoid driver's bolsters getting in, driver seat looks just fine with daily use. Will continue to do overkill annual Leatherique treatment just to keep it nice and plush.

Pics below are before / after Leatherique after I took delivery. Again, I think if you are consistent in caring for it, just about anything decent product wise will be fine.