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      07-20-2021, 12:45 PM   #1
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So, had the new crank hub installed, VRSF Catless DPs, and colder plugs installed. On cold or warm start, the car will rough idle for a few seconds and then die. Start it back up and it does the same a few times, and then it rough idles for a few seconds and then idles smooth. Any idea what might be up? Anyone else experienced this? Maybe I need to reflash it? Searched the forums and found a few possibilities, but nothing that really pointed to what I was seeing. Thanks!

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      07-20-2021, 01:43 PM   #2
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Is the timing off? Or any air leaks?
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      07-20-2021, 01:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82spaceship View Post
Is the timing off? Or any air leaks?
Not that I could tell. I'd assume timing would kick a code. It runs strong as hell. I ran an R8 on the way home and he didn't start pulling on me till 150mph+. FYI, this was on the autobahn. Anyhow, didn't happen till after I filled it up with gas. Could be bad gas, but I don't think so. Idk.
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      07-22-2021, 11:54 AM   #4
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No obvious problems with the parts you picked…

1) Reflash, reset adaptations, restart car.
2) Remove MAFs and check for cleanliness, lightly grease their O-rings so they seal tightly. Also check skinny air pipe between long intake tube and J-pipe, thick grease those O-rings.
3) Pull plugs and re-check insulators and gaps. Examine injector and coil wiring while you're in there.

One time I had a new NGK with an insulator crack hiding right behind the ground strap. Car idled like crap but spun up fine. Was hard to find…no codes to chase.
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      07-23-2021, 07:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
No obvious problems with the parts you picked…

1) Reflash, reset adaptations, restart car.
2) Remove MAFs and check for cleanliness, lightly grease their O-rings so they seal tightly. Also check skinny air pipe between long intake tube and J-pipe, thick grease those O-rings.
3) Pull plugs and re-check insulators and gaps. Examine injector and coil wiring while you're in there.

One time I had a new NGK with an insulator crack hiding right behind the ground strap. Car idled like crap but spun up fine. Was hard to find…no codes to chase.
Thanks. Reflashed the car yesterday. OEM cold start wasn't on. I enabled that and now it starts up and idles fine. I believe that was the issue. So now it hangs the idle like it's warming up the cats. Helps for a smoother transition to operational idle. See if it stays that way.
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      07-23-2021, 08:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graves View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
No obvious problems with the parts you picked…

1) Reflash, reset adaptations, restart car.
2) Remove MAFs and check for cleanliness, lightly grease their O-rings so they seal tightly. Also check skinny air pipe between long intake tube and J-pipe, thick grease those O-rings.
3) Pull plugs and re-check insulators and gaps. Examine injector and coil wiring while you're in there.

One time I had a new NGK with an insulator crack hiding right behind the ground strap. Car idled like crap but spun up fine. Was hard to find…no codes to chase.
Thanks. Reflashed the car yesterday. OEM cold start wasn't on. I enabled that and now it starts up and idles fine. I believe that was the issue. So now it hangs the idle like it's warming up the cats. Helps for a smoother transition to operational idle. See if it stays that way.
I run all my tunes with cold start off because of valves nailed open…never had any rough idle.
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      07-24-2021, 06:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graves View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
No obvious problems with the parts you picked…

1) Reflash, reset adaptations, restart car.
2) Remove MAFs and check for cleanliness, lightly grease their O-rings so they seal tightly. Also check skinny air pipe between long intake tube and J-pipe, thick grease those O-rings.
3) Pull plugs and re-check insulators and gaps. Examine injector and coil wiring while you're in there.

One time I had a new NGK with an insulator crack hiding right behind the ground strap. Car idled like crap but spun up fine. Was hard to find…no codes to chase.
Thanks. Reflashed the car yesterday. OEM cold start wasn't on. I enabled that and now it starts up and idles fine. I believe that was the issue. So now it hangs the idle like it's warming up the cats. Helps for a smoother transition to operational idle. See if it stays that way.
I run all my tunes with cold start off because of valves nailed open…never had any rough idle.
Hmmm. Well, it cold starts fine now, but still has slight rough idle on initial start up when warm. It's gotta be the plugs in my opinion. Only one way to find out. Lol.
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      07-24-2021, 03:37 PM   #8
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These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
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      07-24-2021, 06:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
There is absolutely no need to change coils unless needed. A bad coil is a bad coil.

Could be your intake; common problem on the aluminum intakes.

I would also assume plugs.
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      07-24-2021, 06:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4everkidd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
There is absolutely no need to change coils unless needed. A bad coil is a bad coil.

Could be your intake; common problem on the aluminum intakes.

I would also assume plugs.
Coils lose peak performance over time. You don't need to wait for a misfire to replace it. If the mileage is high, might as well do it at the same time as plugs.
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      07-25-2021, 06:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4everkidd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
There is absolutely no need to change coils unless needed. A bad coil is a bad coil.

Could be your intake; common problem on the aluminum intakes.

I would also assume plugs.
I don't have aluminum intakes, Eventuri. Pretty sure it's the plugs. Car has 12k miles, not that coils couldn't go bad, but doubtful.
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      07-25-2021, 06:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4everkidd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
There is absolutely no need to change coils unless needed. A bad coil is a bad coil.

Could be your intake; common problem on the aluminum intakes.

I would also assume plugs.
Coils lose peak performance over time. You don't need to wait for a misfire to replace it. If the mileage is high, might as well do it at the same time as plugs.
12k miles in 3.5 years, doubtful it's the coils, but I'll have the master tech check.
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      07-25-2021, 08:27 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graves View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4everkidd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
There is absolutely no need to change coils unless needed. A bad coil is a bad coil.

Could be your intake; common problem on the aluminum intakes.

I would also assume plugs.
Coils lose peak performance over time. You don't need to wait for a misfire to replace it. If the mileage is high, might as well do it at the same time as plugs.
12k miles in 3.5 years, doubtful it's the coils, but I'll have the master tech check.
12k miles total on the car? Then you are fine.

I replaced coils at 35k after gapping plugs for full e85.
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      07-25-2021, 10:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graves View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4everkidd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
These cars are super duper sensitive, especially if you are tuned.

I would gap to .022 on NGK 97506s next time. Also change out your coils while you are at it.

Make sure you also run fuel additive once in a while and use ethanol treatment every tank if you run full e85 some day…
There is absolutely no need to change coils unless needed. A bad coil is a bad coil.

Could be your intake; common problem on the aluminum intakes.

I would also assume plugs.
I don't have aluminum intakes, Eventuri. Pretty sure it's the plugs. Car has 12k miles, not that coils couldn't go bad, but doubtful.
Sorry I meant to say the carbon may be a different story.

I had the exact same problem in the winter and it was infuriating; went back to stock intake and it cleaned up.
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      07-25-2021, 11:31 AM   #15
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Going back to stock intakes should always be an early or first step in diagnosing rough idle.
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      07-26-2021, 01:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Going back to stock intakes should always be an early or first step in diagnosing rough idle.
I had rough idle when going to flex fuel. This is what I had to do (it took me darn weeks of troubleshooting):

- Removed aftermarket intakes
- Installed OEM intake with paper filter
- Clean MAF sensor
- Swapped new maf sensor
- Fixed some wiring issues on flex fuel related to the ethanol sensor
- Changed to flex fuel plugs and adjusted gap to .020 per Cary Jordan
- Disabled cold start
- Disabled start up roar

When I disabled start up roar, my idling issue went away. Seems like start up roar gets confused with ethanol mixes and caused my choppy idle.
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      07-26-2021, 10:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Going back to stock intakes should always be an early or first step in diagnosing rough idle.
Never had an idle issue with the Eventuri. I did with the BMS.
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      07-27-2021, 08:00 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Going back to stock intakes should always be an early or first step in diagnosing rough idle.
I had rough idle when going to flex fuel. This is what I had to do (it took me darn weeks of troubleshooting):

- Removed aftermarket intakes
- Installed OEM intake with paper filter
- Clean MAF sensor
- Swapped new maf sensor
- Fixed some wiring issues on flex fuel related to the ethanol sensor
- Changed to flex fuel plugs and adjusted gap to .020 per Cary Jordan
- Disabled cold start
- Disabled start up roar

When I disabled start up roar, my idling issue went away. Seems like start up roar gets confused with ethanol mixes and caused my choppy idle.
Interestingly enough, I had rough idle on cold start, and it was alleviated by removing the start up roar as well. My car is stock, with bm3 stage 1.
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      07-27-2021, 08:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82spaceship View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Going back to stock intakes should always be an early or first step in diagnosing rough idle.
I had rough idle when going to flex fuel. This is what I had to do (it took me darn weeks of troubleshooting):

- Removed aftermarket intakes
- Installed OEM intake with paper filter
- Clean MAF sensor
- Swapped new maf sensor
- Fixed some wiring issues on flex fuel related to the ethanol sensor
- Changed to flex fuel plugs and adjusted gap to .020 per Cary Jordan
- Disabled cold start
- Disabled start up roar

When I disabled start up roar, my idling issue went away. Seems like start up roar gets confused with ethanol mixes and caused my choppy idle.
Interestingly enough, I had rough idle on cold start, and it was alleviated by removing the start up roar as well. My car is stock, with bm3 stage 1.
Do you have aftermarket intakes? If so, which ones?
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      07-27-2021, 09:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F82spaceship View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Going back to stock intakes should always be an early or first step in diagnosing rough idle.
I had rough idle when going to flex fuel. This is what I had to do (it took me darn weeks of troubleshooting):

- Removed aftermarket intakes
- Installed OEM intake with paper filter
- Clean MAF sensor
- Swapped new maf sensor
- Fixed some wiring issues on flex fuel related to the ethanol sensor
- Changed to flex fuel plugs and adjusted gap to .020 per Cary Jordan
- Disabled cold start
- Disabled start up roar

When I disabled start up roar, my idling issue went away. Seems like start up roar gets confused with ethanol mixes and caused my choppy idle.
Interestingly enough, I had rough idle on cold start, and it was alleviated by removing the start up roar as well. My car is stock, with bm3 stage 1.
Do you have aftermarket intakes? If so, which ones?
Nope. My car is all the way stock aside from the the flash tune and some pretty stuff.
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