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      11-28-2021, 08:53 PM   #23
hellokitty
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Ahh of course FCPeuro doesn't have the X-cess MOTUL
They carry 300V.
Would 300V be suitable alternative to X-cess for a motor driven hard (autoX, hill country sprints, etc) but not racing?
Regardless of what motor oil you use, make sure your oil temperature is 180+ before you floor it.

That's my golden rule and it showed up in the oil analysis
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      11-28-2021, 08:55 PM   #24
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Ahh of course FCPeuro doesn't have the X-cess MOTUL
They carry 300V.
Would 300V be suitable alternative to X-cess for a motor driven hard (autoX, hill country sprints, etc) but not racing?
300V is suitable for street use and I think 5000 miles would be appropriate.

If you want something that may last longer (say 7500 miles) get xcess gen 2 which is LL-01 approved.
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      11-29-2021, 12:32 PM   #25
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I like every 5K to make sure I haven't run out the additive package, and in case the oil oxidized any. Since I do oil changes myself it's economical to know I'll keep engine wear lowered. Buying all my stuff from FCP Euro gets me lifetime replacements.

Some run the factory TPT oil to 10K changes, but I'd only do that if it was moms car.
fcp euro gives you lifetime oil replacements?
Yup. And filter
what in the world, do you have to ship the used oil back?
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      11-29-2021, 01:12 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by F82KPowers View Post
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Originally Posted by audioMeth View Post
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Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
I like every 5K to make sure I haven't run out the additive package, and in case the oil oxidized any. Since I do oil changes myself it's economical to know I'll keep engine wear lowered. Buying all my stuff from FCP Euro gets me lifetime replacements.

Some run the factory TPT oil to 10K changes, but I'd only do that if it was moms car.
fcp euro gives you lifetime oil replacements?
Yup. And filter
what in the world, do you have to ship the used oil back?
Yeah, exactly. Then they send you the brand new replacement oil/parts. I was just as shocked as you are when I first heard about it too
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      11-29-2021, 01:13 PM   #27
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I like every 5K to make sure I haven't run out the additive package, and in case the oil oxidized any. Since I do oil changes myself it's economical to know I'll keep engine wear lowered. Buying all my stuff from FCP Euro gets me lifetime replacements.

Some run the factory TPT oil to 10K changes, but I'd only do that if it was moms car.
fcp euro gives you lifetime oil replacements?
Yup. And filter
How do you ship it back? USPS? Must cost a lot no?
Use PayPal and treat it as a return to minimize costs
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      11-29-2021, 11:14 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
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Ahh of course FCPeuro doesn't have the X-cess MOTUL
They carry 300V.
Would 300V be suitable alternative to X-cess for a motor driven hard (autoX, hill country sprints, etc) but not racing?
Don't do if you are not heavily tracking or racing car. 300V is exceptional oil. But has two "problems:"
1. It is heavily ester based. Which means it will oxidize more than usual. Not necessarily problem as Motul is good in curbing oxidation in 300V, but still, you want maybe to do several UOA, one at 3K and one at 5k if you decide to use it. Order TAN measurement!
2. Additives are specific racing additives. Not really well suited oil for hard driving on street.
Good LL01 or if out of warranty, Castrol Edge 0W40 will be much better choice.
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      11-29-2021, 11:16 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
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Originally Posted by Fat Goose View Post
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Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
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Originally Posted by Fat Goose View Post
Ahh of course FCPeuro doesn't have the X-cess MOTUL
They carry 300V.
Would 300V be suitable alternative to X-cess for a motor driven hard (autoX, hill country sprints, etc) but not racing?
300V is suitable for street use and I think 5000 miles would be appropriate.

If you want something that may last longer (say 7500 miles) get xcess gen 2 which is LL-01 approved.
It depends on an engine. Oxidation is big problem in oils like this, not TBN. I recently saw UOA of 300V from Audi S4, and it was abysmal result after 5k. On other hand saw UOA from Corvette C7 with heavy track use after 5k, and it was ridiculously good.
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      11-29-2021, 11:18 PM   #30
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How many miles on your 300V? I switch to that with the new motor.

Please post a full page pic of your Blackstone.
We find this M3 to be in good shape. None of the wear metals are elevated compared to averages, and in fact, they're all quite a bit lower. That's perfect, since this oil was only in use for 1,600 miles. The far right column is based on S55s after a 4,700-mile run. We think that would be a reasonable goal for your next oil run, if you'd like. The 5.2 TBN shows plenty of active additive to spare and we didn't find any contamination along the lines of excess fuel, coolant, or dirt that might slow the engine down. We look forward to building trends for this BMW!

You said 5W30? This is 5W40.
You need more miles and you need to do TAN measurement.
Don't go 5k. Do 3k first. Blackstone always say to people to do longer OCI.
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      12-02-2021, 03:52 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
We find this M3 to be in good shape. None of the wear metals are elevated compared to averages, and in fact, they're all quite a bit lower. That's perfect, since this oil was only in use for 1,600 miles. The far right column is based on S55s after a 4,700-mile run. We think that would be a reasonable goal for your next oil run, if you'd like. The 5.2 TBN shows plenty of active additive to spare and we didn't find any contamination along the lines of excess fuel, coolant, or dirt that might slow the engine down. We look forward to building trends for this BMW!

Here's my results with Redline 10w40. Thought about switching to 300V.

f80uoa by D S, on Flickr
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      12-05-2021, 10:23 AM   #32
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
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      12-05-2021, 10:27 AM   #33
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
I had Pennzoil before Castrol in the sump.
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      12-05-2021, 01:42 PM   #34
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
I had Pennzoil before Castrol in the sump.
Thanks! I guess that's the additive "carryover" you taught me about in our Motul/RedLine discussion.
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      12-05-2021, 06:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
I had Pennzoil before Castrol in the sump.
Thanks! I guess that's the additive "carryover" you taught me about in our Motul/RedLine discussion.
Yeah. I have oil cooler from E90 335, so some 0.5qt stays behind. Now I have Mobil1 0W40 in it
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      12-05-2021, 09:03 PM   #36
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
I had Pennzoil before Castrol in the sump.
Thanks! I guess that's the additive "carryover" you taught me about in our Motul/RedLine discussion.
Yeah. I have oil cooler from E90 335, so some 0.5qt stays behind. Now I have Mobil1 0W40 in it
I rigged up a vacuum pump and an old fuel pail so I can suck out the oil cooler from the hex caps on top of the oil thermostat. Keeps my carryover minimized.
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      12-05-2021, 10:54 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
I had Pennzoil before Castrol in the sump.
Thanks! I guess that's the additive "carryover" you taught me about in our Motul/RedLine discussion.
Yeah. I have oil cooler from E90 335, so some 0.5qt stays behind. Now I have Mobil1 0W40 in it
I rigged up a vacuum pump and an old fuel pail so I can suck out the oil cooler from the hex caps on top of the oil thermostat. Keeps my carryover minimized.
I am but sketchy about that. Do you refill cooler before start?
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      12-06-2021, 07:50 AM   #38
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edycol
I notice elevated Moly in both yours and Bimmerboy's charts. Where might this be coming from?
-TJ
I had Pennzoil before Castrol in the sump.
Thanks! I guess that's the additive "carryover" you taught me about in our Motul/RedLine discussion.
Yeah. I have oil cooler from E90 335, so some 0.5qt stays behind. Now I have Mobil1 0W40 in it
I rigged up a vacuum pump and an old fuel pail so I can suck out the oil cooler from the hex caps on top of the oil thermostat. Keeps my carryover minimized.
I am but sketchy about that. Do you refill cooler before start?
Yes, after vac-out I refill the cooler from the hex caps with a funnel so no air bubble moves through the system when the oil thermostat opens. I do this cooler-vac process after removing the engine oil drain plug, so the engine has time to drip out as much oil as possible. Then I plug and fill topside as usual.
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      12-07-2021, 07:44 PM   #39
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      12-14-2021, 07:08 PM   #40
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I'm doing every 2500 miles on E85.

Using liquimoly 5/40 and some liquimoly m0s2 friction modifier.

What does stock say 0w/30 or is 0w/40 now?

I would think a slightly thicker oil will give a bit better protection but, cost a few more ponies.

Thoughts?
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      12-15-2021, 06:59 AM   #41
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[below is for Street / Highway, not track use]

An oil guru told me BMW TPT 0/30 or 5/30 is plenty good for stock and gas tunes with stock turbos. Always change at 5K if tuned, even though this oil is good and durable (could last 7-10 if you were testing it).

0/40 and 5/40 offer a little more protection with alcohol tunes (dilution) or upgraded turbos (shear). Motul X-cess 8100 Gen2 5W-40 is the top choice, or Red Line Oil, as they both have great base oil stock plus enough additives included for street (ab)use. If running E85 do changes every 2-2500mi because of dilution, and be religious about it.

LiquiMoly brand was deemed okay but inferior to Motul/RL/TPT in quality. If Blackstone Labs says your oil is doing well then it is, I test mine every change or every other.

NOTE: new Kratos EVO turbos require thinner 0/30 or 5/30 due to their pinhole oilers, so I'll be using Motul 300V 5W-30 (very little additive, very strong shear protection) and change out every 2000 miles. This race oil requires a long warm-up, and frequent changes due to low additives. This 300V race stuff oxidizes when used on street, so the 2K OCI is important.
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      12-17-2021, 08:42 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papasmurf_m3 View Post
I'm doing every 2500 miles on E85.

Using liquimoly 5/40 and some liquimoly m0s2 friction modifier.

What does stock say 0w/30 or is 0w/40 now?

I would think a slightly thicker oil will give a bit better protection but, cost a few more ponies.

Thoughts?
Don't add any stuff into oil. Your oil has already all necessary additives. Liqui Moly built its business on those additives long before they got into oil business. It is marketing gimmick.
If you are out of warranty, Castrol Edge 0W40 is IMO still best bet for N/S55. If you still want LL01, Motul, Pennzoil would be my choice.
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