How's the traction with bootmod stage 1?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by loganruffin

Potentially a dumb question here...

Looking at a 2018 manual car that has stage 1 bootmod. Seller says the crankhub did fail and it was replaced under warranty but not with a pinned version, just OEM.

Is it common to have the crank hub problems even with just a stage 1? Should I be concerned about it happening again in the future? Appreciate any advice!

I would advise you to at least get the VTT crank bolt capture installed with Stage 1. A full crank hub should be done with Stage 2 onwards, especially with ethanol maps.

[Empathy]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

I would go to a wider rear tire, if you can do so without making the sidewall any taller.
The stock-size 19s squirmed quite a bit for me. But they were some random tire. A 275/35R19 PSS or 4S should have plenty of grip, but if that's what you've got and you're still all over the place maybe look into something wider.

Planning to go 305s in the rear. I'm sure the grip will be 10x better

[Empathy]

Originally Posted by loganruffin

Potentially a dumb question here...

Looking at a 2018 manual car that has stage 1 bootmod. Seller says the crankhub did fail and it was replaced under warranty but not with a pinned version, just OEM.

Is it common to have the crank hub problems even with just a stage 1? Should I be concerned about it happening again in the future? Appreciate any advice!

Some stock cars fail and some 800+ whp cars never spin. Obviously as you go up in power your chances of spinning increase, but at the end of the day it's a very rare occurrence and it's really just luck of the draw.

[LYTSOUT]

One thing that hasn't been discussed yet is the fact that the OEM LSD and MDM tunes totally suck. I'd highly recommend the GTS settings for LSD and MDM which can be coded by kubax86.

The OEM LSD/MDM intervene and cut power when you start to get wheel spin which kills all your momentum as you have to get off the throttle to allow it grip again. By contrast, the GTS LSD/MDM allows you to stay on the throttle despite the wheels spinning so you maintain momentum. You can also control the amount of wheel spin by modulating the throttle. While this doesn't technically increase traction, per se, what it does do is make the car far more drivable and easy to control whether or not the wheels are spinning.

Check out all the positive reviews for the GTS LSD/MDM coding on this thread. I can't stress enough what a positive impact this had on the overall drivability of the car (and I didn't even mention the steering improvement which is also awesome and the MDM lets you get WAY more sideways than OEM MDM) https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1843973

Otherwise, I agree with everything that's been discussed above. My car easily spins the (fairly worn) PSS 275/40/18 through 2nd and sometimes into 3rd on Stage 1. BM3's GTS tune has less wheel spin b/c the torque band is smoother, but of course you're giving up torque and HP. I have some 305/30/19 PS4S ordered to help with putting the power down. I haven't tried reducing boost by gear, but if the more meaty tires don't help, I probably will.

To summarize, I wouldn't let wheel spin keep you from getting BM3. If nothing else, just use the GTS tune instead of the higher stages. I'd recommend anyone (with or without an engine tune) getting the GTS LSD and MDM settings coded. If you still need more grip, either upgrade tires, reduce boost by gear, or do both. I'd say this plan is probably reasonable for most guys.

[fivaxis]

My car is stock and traction doesn’t exist below 50mph.

[Adcampo]

Originally Posted by LYTSOUT

One thing that hasn't been discussed yet is the fact that the OEM LSD and MDM tunes totally suck. I'd highly recommend the GTS settings for LSD and MDM which can be coded by kubax86.

The OEM LSD/MDM intervene and cut power when you start to get wheel spin which kills all your momentum as you have to get off the throttle to allow it grip again. By contrast, the GTS LSD/MDM allows you to stay on the throttle despite the wheels spinning so you maintain momentum. You can also control the amount of wheel spin by modulating the throttle. While this doesn't technically increase traction, per se, what it does do is make the car far more drivable and easy to control whether or not the wheels are spinning.

Check out all the positive reviews for the GTS LSD/MDM coding on this thread. I can't stress enough what a positive impact this had on the overall drivability of the car (and I didn't even mention the steering improvement which is also awesome and the MDM lets you get WAY more sideways than OEM MDM) https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1843973

Otherwise, I agree with everything that's been discussed above. My car easily spins the (fairly worn) PSS 275/40/18 through 2nd and sometimes into 3rd on Stage 1. BM3's GTS tune has less wheel spin b/c the torque band is smoother, but of course you're giving up torque and HP. I have some 305/30/19 PS4S ordered to help with putting the power down. I haven't tried reducing boost by gear, but if the more meaty tires don't help, I probably will.

To summarize, I wouldn't let wheel spin keep you from getting BM3. If nothing else, just use the GTS tune instead of the higher stages. I'd recommend anyone (with or without an engine tune) getting the GTS LSD and MDM settings coded. If you still need more grip, either upgrade tires, reduce boost by gear, or do both. I'd say this plan is probably reasonable for most guys.

Thanks. I have the GTS LSD tune. I'll check out the wider tires when I need new ones.