Nitron R1 on track

[Driver407]

Not a ton of info out there on the Nitron R1 for F80/F82 and want to hear some first hand experiences.
I blew out my 5 year old TC Klines over the weekend at the track. Looking into new dampers for around $4-5k max. Nitrons are near the top for me at the moment. Id say it is between Nitrons and MCS 1WNR.

F80 is my daily that gets to the track every few months when I want to spice it up over my dedicated e46m track car. I dont need to go extreme and spend all the money and have every last option for adjustability. Just want a step better damper than what I had with TC Klines.

Few topics that I cant decide on and wanted to see how other people ventured.

1) The spring rates from factory are kinda odd in my opinion. Street rates: 685f/742r lbs-in. Track rates: 799f/913r lbs-in.
What spring rates did you select and how did that work out on track?
2) Did you do custom spring rates? What rates? Feel like I want 600/900'ish. Similar to how MCS would be. Just no idea how that would turn out in practice.
2) How have they held up over time? Have you rebuilt them? How long did they last you in reality?
3) OG Shark and Inertial Labs offer custom valving and configurations. Also curious about anyone with those setups. Have a f87 friend with R3 from OG and he loves them. F87 forum has some reviews. Just nothing much over here on F80/F82 forums. Reached out to them but haven't heard back yet.
4) How did the "2-way combined" adjustment work out? They are really 1-way and that is basically the one downside compared to my Klines, which were compression/rebound adjustable. (Although I used the street and track recommendation from Kline and didnt vary much)

If anyone out there has some track time on this setup. Curious of your feedback.

[SYT_Shadow]

MCS 1WNR for the win, from Bimmerworld for their good support.

I've used JRZ and MCS back to back and it was not close. We got around 40k street and track miles out of the MCS 3WR set on our stroker E90 track car.
We will most likely swap out the Ohlins TTX on our M4 GT4 for MCS 3WR over winter.

Spec E46s all over the country are running the MCS 1WNR with great success and great times.

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

MCS 1WNR for the win, from Bimmerworld for their good support.

I've used JRZ and MCS back to back and it was not close. We got around 40k street and track miles out of the MCS 3WR set on our stroker E90 track car.
We will most likely swap out the Ohlins TTX on our M4 GT4 for MCS 3WR over winter.

Spec E46s all over the country are running the MCS 1WNR with great success and great times.

Yeah, MCS/JRZ are well documented and tons of info. Know many people with all the different variants.

The Nitron are $4k to door (4.6k~? for OG shark) vs ~5600 to door with MCS stage 3 from BW.
Rebuild/new tc klines dampers and springs would be ~2k > nitrons 4k > MCS 5.6k.

For my use case and situation. That extra 1500 for MCS is a hindrance.
So the jump in pricing is part of it. Rather save a large suspension purchase for the e46 track car. Although i am not against the mcs in any way. Could swing it. Just trying to hear more about nitrons.

[F80 M3 LTW]

I have R1s

Purchased from Interia Labs. Chris is very helpful. Most responsive via phone vs email. With his advice I got 700f / 900r springs (divorced obviously) and he spec’s a short front spring for wheel clearance. 5” iirc

Fit and finish is incredible. Durable coatings and lots of lightweight materials. Rear shocks weigh 2lbs. I put them on a scale. Even the tools are nice. No sharp edges. Post and peg style wrenches so you don’t gash the spring perches.

Street stuff. Lower the adjuster and it rides like stock. Plain and simple.

I have 4 track days, all at VIR, on them so far. Very satisfied. I started very soft and have been slowly increasing rebound stiffness in 1-2 click intervals. I’ve felt every adjustment. Seriously. Right now I’m smack in the middle. They eat curbs and rumble strips all day long. Car is very flat in the corners and feels very neutral so I’m happy with the rates for now. I immediately was able to get on the gas earlier so my exit speeds are way faster. I added 10mph to the entry of two high speed turns at VIR almost right away and by the end of my last weekend was pushing even faster. During throttle steer or small to medium oversteer moments the car feels very predictable.

I’ve had a couple F8X instructors ride along and both complemented how the felt. One is buying a set for himself.

Accessing the front and rear adjusters is super easy.

Something I really liked also is the camber plate. Thick solid aluminum similar to a Vorschlag but uses a double nut (no risking an impact). Lots of room to get a full range of camber adjustment but it also has caster adjustment. I’ve had poor experiences with ground control (mainly the company and customer support) in the past and tend to avoid their products (many others have had great experiences though, ymmv).

So I bought because the shocks are comparable to other tops brands, you get a great camber plate, and it’s all a complete package. Front endlinks come too. No funny noises to report.

Also Interia labs said you can upgrade R1 to remote R3s in the future. Costs a couple grand so doesn’t make financial sense unless the R1s need to be rebuilt. But that’s my tentative plan. Run R1s for a few seasons and send to rebuild / upgrade.

Hopefully that helps.

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by F80 M3 LTW

I have R1s

Purchased from Interia Labs. Chris is very helpful. Most responsive via phone vs email. With his advice I got 700f / 900r springs (divorced obviously) and he spec’s a short front spring for wheel clearance. 5” iirc

Fit and finish is incredible. Durable coatings and lots of lightweight materials. Rear shocks weigh 2lbs. I put them on a scale. Even the tools are nice. No sharp edges. Post and peg style wrenches so you don’t gash the spring perches.

Street stuff. Lower the adjuster and it rides like stock. Plain and simple.

I have 4 track days, all at VIR, on them so far. Very satisfied. I started very soft and have been slowly increasing rebound stiffness in 1-2 click intervals. I’ve felt every adjustment. Seriously. Right now I’m smack in the middle. They eat curbs and rumble strips all day long. Car is very flat in the corners and feels very neutral so I’m happy with the rates for now. I immediately was able to get on the gas earlier so my exit speeds are way faster. I added 10mph to the entry of two high speed turns at VIR almost right away and by the end of my last weekend was pushing even faster. During throttle steer or small to medium oversteer moments the car feels very predictable.

I’ve had a couple F8X instructors ride along and both complemented how the felt. One is buying a set for himself.

Accessing the front and rear adjusters is super easy.

Something I really liked also is the camber plate. Thick solid aluminum similar to a Vorschlag but uses a double nut (no risking an impact). Lots of room to get a full range of camber adjustment but it also has caster adjustment. I’ve had poor experiences with ground control (mainly the company and customer support) in the past and tend to avoid their products (many others have had great experiences though, ymmv).

So I bought because the shocks are comparable to other tops brands, you get a great camber plate, and it’s all a complete package. Front endlinks come too. No funny noises to report.

Also Interia labs said you can upgrade R1 to remote R3s in the future. Costs a couple grand so doesn’t make financial sense unless the R1s need to be rebuilt. But that’s my tentative plan. Run R1s for a few seasons and send to rebuild / upgrade.

Hopefully that helps.

Good stuff. How do you like the springs? Would you change any of the rates now that you have them? Fairly compliant on streets when tuned down?

What sorta pace/time do you run at VIR? Tire compound?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Yeah, MCS/JRZ are well documented and tons of info. Know many people with all the different variants.

The Nitron are $4k to door (4.6k~? for OG shark) vs ~5600 to door with MCS stage 3 from BW.
Rebuild/new tc klines dampers and springs would be ~2k > nitrons 4k > MCS 5.6k.

For my use case and situation. That extra 1500 for MCS is a hindrance.
So the jump in pricing is part of it. Rather save a large suspension purchase for the e46 track car. Although i am not against the mcs in any way. Could swing it. Just trying to hear more about nitrons.

MCS 3WR price is for the dampers only. Camber plates, f8x strut adapter, main springs, helper springs and couplers, thrust sheets, rear divorced vs. coilover hardware, etc. must be purchased separately. It’s roughly $1300-1600 more depending on your options.

I have driven on the street and track in a f82 with Nitron standard OTS R1 (Nitron kit directly from Nitron). The street ride quality, especially over expansion joint and large bumps, is not great with their lower strut and divorced spring rate option. Nitron Schimer R1s are just as bad which suggests the high-speed blow-off valves do not isolate the car from HS sprung mass movements. Nitron ogsm R1 has improved street ride quality. A forum member recently tested MCS 3WR (rear coilover), Nitron Schimer R3 (rear coilover and KW Competition 3A 3-way (one step below their pro racing line) and he concluded the MCS 3WR was superior on track/mountain roads and had the best street ride quality. A 2WR will excel in the same areas but doesn’t have independent HSC and LSC. I was running three 2WR setups and have driven 3WR setups and I’d say you get at least 95% of the performance of the 3WR. The 3WR removes a little bit of suspension constraint by allowing independent LSC and HSC; however, the complexity of properly setting up a 3WR is much higher than a 2WR. Over the past 30+ years, I’ve heard from so many people saying they outgrew their 1-way damper in 1-2 track seasons. I can setup 2WR and 3WR and after eight years I didn’t outgrow the 2WR. Were their times when I wished I had a 3WR? Yes but this was performance track driving, not w2w racing, so the 2WR was all I needed (plus I wanted to run three 2WR setups simultaneously). Don’t get me wrong, the 3WR is superior to the 2WR.

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

MCS 3WR price is for the dampers only. Camber plates, f8x strut adapter, main springs, helper springs and couplers, thrust sheets, rear divorced vs. coilover hardware, etc. must be purchased separately. It’s roughly $1300-1600 more depending on your options.

I have driven on the street and track in a f82 with Nitron standard OTS R1 (Nitron kit directly from Nitron). The street ride quality, especially over expansion joint and large bumps, is not great with their lower strut and divorced spring rate option. Nitron Schimer R1s are just as bad which suggests the high-speed blow-off valves do not isolate the car from HS sprung mass movements. Nitron ogsm R1 has improved street ride quality. A forum member recently tested MCS 3WR (rear coilover), Nitron Schimer R3 (rear coilover and KW Competition 3A 3-way (one step below their pro racing line) and he concluded the MCS 3WR was superior on track/mountain roads and had the best street ride quality. A 2WR will excel in the same areas but doesn’t have independent HSC and LSC. I was running three 2WR setups and have driven 3WR setups and I’d say you get at least 95% of the performance of the 3WR. The 3WR removes a little bit of suspension constraint by allowing independent LSC and HSC; however, the complexity of properly setting up a 3WR is much higher than a 2WR. Over the past 30+ years, I’ve heard from so many people saying they outgrew their 1-way damper in 1-2 track seasons. I can setup 2WR and 3WR and after eight years I didn’t outgrow the 2WR. Were their times when I wished I had a 3WR? Yes but this was performance track driving, not w2w racing, so the 2WR was all I needed (plus I wanted to run three 2WR setups simultaneously). Don’t get me wrong, the 3WR is superior to the 2WR.

That~5.6k price is for complete 1wnr with all the proper fixings plus tax and shipping. https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...-M2-M3-M4.html

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Driver407

That~5.6k price is for complete 1wnr with all the proper fixings plus tax and shipping. https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWorld-MCS-GC-Coil-Over-Kit-F8X-M2-M3-M4.html

I did not know BW created a street and track setup for the 1WNR. The “3 stage” reference is something I have not seen before.

[F80 M3 LTW]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Good stuff. How do you like the springs? Would you change any of the rates now that you have them? Fairly compliant on streets when tuned down?

What sorta pace/time do you run at VIR? Tire compound?

So far I’m happy with the springs. I don’t have a lot of experience with any of the other popular setups.

For me, street compliance has been fantastic. Settings at 4f/4r and it feels like stock (passive damper) over bumps, joints, etc.

My last couple sessions I was managing a 2:16 on tired RS4s. Blue brakes. Base model with No power stuff. Intermediate driver (PCA white group and bmwcca B group). Lots of driver moding still needed, haha

[SYT_Shadow]

If I were going to get Nitrons, for sure I'd get OGs setup. Having proper baseline settings is worth the world.

As it is, I have good settings from Bimmerworld, developed right at VIR, and they work really well. And the MCS dampers are fantastic.

[SharkeyPM]

I have R1's from OG shark and have also had Nitron rebuild one of my shocks after a big off caused by me. Top tier stuff and fantastic customer service from Guy at Nitron. My car is just driven to the track and back... I do a 1.22 at Streets of willow. The car is definitely capable of a Sub 1.20 with some better driver mod with this suspension.

My setup is right now is:
R1's
SPL LCA and sway bar end links
RE-71'rs 275sq
paragon brake pads and slotted rotors

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by Shariq

I have R1's from OG shark and have also had Nitron rebuild one of my shocks after a big off caused by me. Top tier stuff and fantastic customer service from Guy at Nitron. My car is just driven to the track and back... I do a 1.22 at Streets of willow. The car is definitely capable of a Sub 1.20 with some better driver mod with this suspension.

My setup is right now is:
R1's
SPL LCA and sway bar end links
RE-71'rs 275sq
paragon brake pads and slotted rotors

Nice, Ive only been to Streets once back on a hot day in May. My suspension was shot then too, knowing what I know now. Agree, 1:20 would be a solid goal.

My OG Nitrons arrive at the end of the week
Will update this thread as I get experience with them.

[Driver407]

My OG Shark Nitrons showed up today.
Already loosely installed the rears and had a few questions to shoot over to Jason before finishing up the fronts tomorrow.

[Driver407]

Install is going very smooth. Only negative I have for the nitrons atm is the camber plate bolt position

In order to install the 5 bolt pattern to the front strut.
It requires you to loosen the 3x caster bolts in order to access all 5 counter holds for the nuts.

Not the end of the world but does complicate the install over other model plates.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Install is going very smooth. Only negative I have for the nitrons atm is the camber plate bolt position

In order to install the 5 bolt pattern to the front strut.
It requires you to loosen the 3x caster bolts in order to access all 5 counter holds for the nuts.

They could have used this type of studs:

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by Track/S

They could have used this type of studs:

Yeah, that or some sort of metal recess that could hold a hex head bolt.


One other annoying feature of the nitron camber plates I ran across:
The caster locking is done via the OEM metal strut brace. Rather than directly on the camber plate hardware. (Attached a pic I found online for reference)
6 bolts of the metal strut brace are replaced with nitron hardware that inserts into the caster locking plate. I'm not a huge fan of this design but once it is installed and in place, shouldn't be too bad.

Could see removing the brace for service could be annoying since there will be risk you alter the caster by accident. I guess ill find out eventually!
Think my GC plates on my E46M might be this same way. Havent messed with it since i installed and cant recall.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Yeah, that or some sort of metal recess that could hold a hex head bolt.


One other annoying feature of the nitron camber plates I ran across:
The caster locking is done via the OEM metal strut brace. Rather than directly on the camber plate hardware. (Attached a pic I found online for reference)
6 bolts of the metal strut brace are replaced with nitron hardware that inserts into the caster locking plate. I'm not a huge fan of this design but once it is installed and in place, shouldn't be too bad.

Could see removing the brace for service could be annoying since there will be risk you alter the caster by accident. I guess ill find out eventually!
Think my GC plates on my E46M might be this same way. Havent messed with it since i installed and cant recall.

If I'm not mistaken, only Nitron plates have caster adjustment.
The day you have to change spark plugs is going to be an odyssey


The plates that I like the most are KW very simple design and lightweight.
I have GC now and they are garbage.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Track/S

If I'm not mistaken, only Nitron plates have caster adjustment.
The day you have to change spark plugs is going to be an odyssey


The plates that I like the most are KW very simple design and lightweight.
I have GC now and they are garbage.

Although you’re not a fan, GC f8x plates have camber and castor adjustments.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Driver407

Yeah, that or some sort of metal recess that could hold a hex head bolt.


One other annoying feature of the nitron camber plates I ran across:
The caster locking is done via the OEM metal strut brace. Rather than directly on the camber plate hardware. (Attached a pic I found online for reference)
6 bolts of the metal strut brace are replaced with nitron hardware that inserts into the caster locking plate. I'm not a huge fan of this design but once it is installed and in place, shouldn't be too bad.

Could see removing the brace for service could be annoying since there will be risk you alter the caster by accident. I guess ill find out eventually!
Think my GC plates on my E46M might be this same way. Havent messed with it since i installed and cant recall.

The single strut tower brace needs to be removed to adjust castor on GC camber/castor plates.

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by Track/S

If I'm not mistaken, only Nitron plates have caster adjustment.
The day you have to change spark plugs is going to be an odyssey


The plates that I like the most are KW very simple design and lightweight.
I have GC now and they are garbage.

Just did spark plugs and coils a few months ago thankfully


Finished up all four corners just now. All that is left is buttoning up the strut and brace tomorrow.

[Driver407]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

The single strut tower brace needs to be removed to adjust castor on GC camber/castor plates.

Yeah, i felt like I had done that on my GC set. Been 2-3 years.

[Driver407]

Just drove the car around the canyons after finishing up install.
Tested dampers at 10/24 clicks to see how they road. (4 clicks from soft for streets / 4 clicks from stiff for track is recommendation)
Ride height is pretty solid on 18"s and need to finalize the rake. Getting a corner balance next week. Hopefully a track day around the first week or two of December for some real data.

Initial Impressions:

• The street compliance is only a little bit rougher than my old 300/600 spring rate setup on TC Klines. They feel very much like my buddies old Ohlins R/T. Still totally acceptable and most people wouldnt have any issue with the street manors. Id say 10-15% more stiffness from the Klines. If I dial the clicks down to 4 it might be a tossup.
• The car feels a little more on rails. Going into a turn, the car has much less body roll and loads up a little cleaner.
• The steering wheel has a decent amount of extra road feel coming through my hands. Almost feels similar when you upgrade the front monoball arm, an extra level of road feel on top.
• No additional NVH or noise compared to old setup.

Install notes:

• The ride height adjustment is MUCH better than the TC Klines. Can raise and lower the height with complete ease. Dont need to undo the rear control arm bolt to change rear perch height. Everything spins with little effort and resistance. Spun it by hand most the way. The perch spanner tools are also real nice.
• The 3x caster bolts that are used on OEM brace I mentioned in last post are not super annoying to install. Wasnt too bad after all. Still not my favorite design.
• The rear perch is set just about half way on threads. The front perch is about 1 inch from the top thread. (the pics earlier are not representative of how car is setup post install)