09-11-2015, 01:22 AM | #71 |
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Can someone please once they figured out how to remove the speed limit post a new step by step guide? So please take screen shots and pictures this would be great. I live near the German border and would live to give it a try on the Autobahn but I have to wait until january for my F82.
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09-11-2015, 09:24 AM | #72 | |
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Once you have it downloaded and installed it's pretty simple to change your max speed. As long as your DME is under 10 hours then it is code-able. You'll have to edit the DME. Once you get to the code screen you'll expand the following folders CAF[DME]-->Daten [Layout:BYTE]-->Funktionen-->VMAX-Codierung-->Ausgelessen. Change the numeric value to the highest available (mine was 327).
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09-11-2015, 12:18 PM | #74 |
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Look at my post #68 of this thread (3 posts above your first)... Have I tested the top speed? No, I don't know of any place in Cali that I would be able to do that legally.
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09-14-2015, 05:07 PM | #75 |
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09-15-2015, 11:30 PM | #76 |
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just did mine, too:
original: after a start cycle/reconnect: 2015 m3 got ED'ed on July 31 with 2 miles on the clock; dropped off at MUN same day with 24 miles; picked up today from dealer with 36 miles on the odometer ; drove home and currently car has 94 miles on the clock; coded as above per other posters in this thread . Will probably never actually try if it works but this coding opportunity was simply too hard to pass... Will see if it sticks later when I do other convenience options... Last edited by shifter; 09-15-2015 at 11:54 PM.. |
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09-16-2015, 08:44 AM | #78 | |
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09-16-2015, 08:49 AM | #79 | |
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This would not be okay in my book as I am pretty OCD about driving my cars. |
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09-16-2015, 09:51 AM | #80 | |
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I dropped off the car with 24 miles on the odometer at the Munich airport drop-off location and picked it up at the dealer with 36. So the car was driven for 12 miles altogether during the shipping from MUN to the US dealer, which did annoy me. The trip computer was never reset since the car left the factory and includes the average for all its 103 miles as of the picture. |
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09-20-2015, 12:56 PM | #82 |
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I am in Belgium and will be coding my F80 in the next month or so (finally picking it up this week in the NL). I coded my F30 and already have the SW, cable, etc. I will code for you once you get your car, for a nominal fee of course. PM me if you want.
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09-20-2015, 01:10 PM | #83 |
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Thank you for the offer but this is something I would like to learn and try myself. I work as a software engineer so I think that I will be able to figure this out
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09-20-2015, 01:12 PM | #84 | |
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09-20-2015, 04:22 PM | #86 | |
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Also, how are you coding if your engine is switched off? Do you have a battery charger connected?
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2015 BMW F80 M3: Tractive EDC Suspension / Dinan Anti-Roll Bars / GC Camber Plates / KMP Dual Diff Mount / Girodisc Rotors / GT4 Brake Cooling Kit / PTF Flash Tune / Eisenmann Downpipes / CSF Heat Exchanger / BMS Charge Pipes
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09-20-2015, 05:17 PM | #87 | ||
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As far as coding with the engine off. I'm pretty sure that's the only way you should code it. The battery won't die. I coded and played music for a few days before it shut off saying the battery was low. I hooked my meter to it and the battery was about t 13.2 (3.3v per cell). Still plenty to start the car and pretty much do anything, but since it's a lithium battery you don't really want to drain it past that. I'm assuming the cells are 3.7v cells and the lowest safe voltage is 3.2vdc. Multiply that by 4 and the safest low charge is 12.8v. The car will protect its cell Although those voltages don't make sense, because if it had 4 banks of 3.7v cells then fully charged would be 16.8vdc. We already know that the car will protect itself from a charge above 14vdc. Hmm. I want to know more about our battery, lol.
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09-20-2015, 05:46 PM | #88 | |
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Regarding lithium batteries and their charge, I'm by no means an expert, just an enthusiast who might know a little bit about lithium batteries: The minimum voltage a lithium battery cell should never drop below is 3.0V, otherwise there is a high risk you cannot recover it. This is why it is recommended not to let it fall below 3.2V as a safety net (I personally would even recommend 3.3V since Li-Po batteries aren't cheap and are very sensitive to being depleted). The maximum voltage you should ever allow a lithium battery cell to charge is 4.2V, more than that you risk damaging the battery and even causing it to catch fire (it will overheat and might cause some of the chemicals to ignite, I've seen that happen....and it's scary! Search Lipo battery fire on YouTube and see for yourself). The IDEAL voltage to have a lithium battery cell hold to ensure longevity and safety is 3.7V like you mentioned, but that might not necessarily be what BMW has set for out batteries. Again, I might not be 100% accurate on the things I've stated, I'm not an electrical engineer nor do I work in the battery business, these are just things I've learnt from the use of Li-Po batteries for other applications.
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2015 BMW F80 M3: Tractive EDC Suspension / Dinan Anti-Roll Bars / GC Camber Plates / KMP Dual Diff Mount / Girodisc Rotors / GT4 Brake Cooling Kit / PTF Flash Tune / Eisenmann Downpipes / CSF Heat Exchanger / BMS Charge Pipes
2007 BMW E92 335i (SOLD): BMS JB4 / Quaife LSD / Riss Racing DPs / Helix Intercooler / BMS Intake / STETT Charge Pipe / Forge DVs Last edited by BuLoOoSki; 09-20-2015 at 05:52 PM.. |
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