05-17-2016, 07:12 AM | #23 | |
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Since your car is a 2016, its likely that you had fewer ECUs to update. On my Jun 2015 (55.0, F020-11-05-503) M4, there is 23ECUs that needs to be update putting aside Kombi that I did it sometime ago. Do you still have your SVT_Tal.xml file? I'd just want to confirm if your ZGW (FEM_*) were flashed, I am worried about these ones... so i am considering either a partial flash (DME, DSC, ICM) so not risk it too much and not to loose all my codings. Thanks. |
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05-17-2016, 12:33 PM | #24 | |
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You can probably save off your CAFD files, VO code the module, save off the new VO coded CAFD, then use NCDCAFDTool to diff your new CAFD and old CAFD to see what you had changed. Then you know what to code again. I'll send you the TAL by PM after work today. Good luck with the build! |
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05-17-2016, 12:37 PM | #25 |
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Connection via VIN Is the more reliable, I somehow had a feeling your ZGW wasn't flashed, I'll check with @thisisdave too. Thanks, I have my coding saved and in my own cheat sheets but I may be leaning to flashing just those three modules unless someone reports other improvements in other ECUs, flash the least ECUs, golden advice from the Master himself
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05-17-2016, 12:41 PM | #26 | |
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Is your car DCT? I like the DCT update a lot. It would probably be good to flash GHAS as well. |
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05-17-2016, 12:52 PM | #27 | |
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Yes, my car is a DCT, now you are really trying hard to get me into trouble so what is it you notice different? |
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05-17-2016, 01:00 PM | #28 | |
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Part of that may be the DME tuning, but I'm not sure. I noticed the sport+ became more progressive near the cruising point, and doesn't feel too sensitive like i thought before. And you get a new startup rev. You might as well just update the whole car together since you're building a PSU and everything The F10 flashing guide i used seems to flash the ZGW by connecting via IP. |
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05-17-2016, 01:21 PM | #29 |
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Thanks for all your comments! but now you see why i hesitate because information is contradictory all over when it comes to ZGW (FEM_*). you guys lucked out
I am also building the PSU as its fun and i haven't done that since my adolescent days being an electronics hobbyist but i also ordered a Volts/Amps digital meter too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231684637404...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT but it will take one month to get here!!! Last edited by aboulfad; 05-17-2016 at 02:06 PM.. |
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05-17-2016, 02:18 PM | #30 | |
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05-17-2016, 02:41 PM | #31 | |
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05-17-2016, 02:43 PM | #32 | |
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05-17-2016, 02:46 PM | #33 |
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after I ordered it, i realized we have a local electronics store that sells something similar. If you order it, make sure you get the shunt amps that matches your PSU. I got an 100Amps shunt. it wont be super precise, but it will give an idea.
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05-17-2016, 07:27 PM | #34 | |
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05-17-2016, 07:41 PM | #35 |
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you are most likely to be on 58.2, but I will only experience the changes if I drive your car I take back my comment, it seems some people are reporting older software version towards end of 16Q1. But surely you would have seen your I-step when you coded your car?
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05-18-2016, 07:10 AM | #36 |
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05-18-2016, 02:24 PM | #37 |
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Any chance someone would like to contract with some of us members who are either too busy or wary to take on this type of a build ourselves?
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05-18-2016, 04:00 PM | #39 |
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05-18-2016, 04:02 PM | #40 |
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terahertz , I ordered 4 PSU, look what I got instead, a Mac Pro nah 4 PSUs wrapped in that box that gave me ideas now. Let the modding begin
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05-22-2016, 12:59 PM | #41 |
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@terahertz , did you isolate DC ground on both PSUs, given we are hooking them in parallel, wouldn't it make sense. Ok I just did, no harm in doing it.
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05-22-2016, 09:29 PM | #42 |
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Yes, I did it on both PSU. I was reading you should only do 1 if you are doing it series. I could be wrong, as I'm not an electrician, but from my internet research I decided to do both.
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05-22-2016, 09:58 PM | #43 | |
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So not sure what's going on, the PSU is meant to maintain constant voltage... Ok just unplugged the PSU and am monitoring voltage under load, and it's dropping to 13.3V, so PSU seems to maintain a steady voltage but varying under load, weird... Here's a pic with Anderson connector. |
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05-23-2016, 03:47 AM | #44 | |
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As far as maintaining voltage, I think it will drop slightly because of load and resistance through the wires and connectors. Pin 9 for the 12v sense is usually used so the PSU can adjust to the 12v dropping from variable load and it will increase the voltage automatically. We are hijacking that to make it raise the voltage to 13.5, so it doesn't have that same automatic voltage adjustment anymore. Either way, as long as your voltage stays steady in the 13-14v range, you should be good to go. |
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