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      06-06-2016, 06:25 PM   #89
MaX PL
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is it recommended to put grease on the outer parts of the pins?

i remember a porsche tech doing this on this car for me once as he was showing me how to do a brake job, but i haven't done it since and it seems the pins were easier to get in and out back then.

anyone grease the outer portions?
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      06-06-2016, 06:52 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL
is it recommended to put grease on the outer parts of the pins?

i remember a porsche tech doing this on this car for me once as he was showing me how to do a brake job, but i haven't done it since and it seems the pins were easier to get in and out back then.

anyone grease the outer portions?
I did it for the very first swap. And then the grease was on there for a couple of next swaps. And then I was too lazy and stopped.
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      06-09-2016, 02:37 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
Installed my RS29-s yesterday. Took me more like 3 hours instead of 1. The pins are a bit of PITA. They dont seem to go back in that easily.

On the bright side: pads are wonderful. Bedded them in really well. Driving them around the city no squeal at all. With windows down in underground parking you can barely hear some more friction sound. Also when changing rolling direction between D and R they make a clunking noise as they seem to be a tiny bit smaller than the OEMs and move in the caliper with the rotors. No big deal.
Will test them on Sunday on track.
With experience you'll get faster.

A group of us recently did a group Euro Delivery with 10 M2s, 2 M3s, and 2 M4s. We did a group buy on 8 sets of Pagid RS29s and had them shipped to Munich and I brought an extra suitcase with all the tools needed for a brake swap (except a floor jack!). We took the first week to tour Italy and Switzerland, and at Hotel Gletschergarten in Grindelwald, the proprietor of the hotel had a floor jack, so we did a group brake pad swap.

After the first couple of cars, we got our procedure down, and we were able to do all eight cars in three hours! I posted a couple of pics in this thread: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1255809
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      06-14-2016, 06:58 PM   #92
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I'll be changing my pads out in the next few weeks and was wondering if there is a trick or tip to removing the sensors from the pads and later replacing it (if that's even possible?) Just pull it straight out with needle nose pliers?

Thanks!
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      06-14-2016, 07:46 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Mu
I'll be changing my pads out in the next few weeks and was wondering if there is a trick or tip to removing the sensors from the pads and later replacing it (if that's even possible?) Just pull it straight out with needle nose pliers?

Thanks!
I've used a flathead screwdriver to wiggle it out. I've never broken one but if you had to replace one, I think they're fairly inexpensive. don't over think it, they come out fairly easily
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      06-15-2016, 05:51 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Mu View Post
I'll be changing my pads out in the next few weeks and was wondering if there is a trick or tip to removing the sensors from the pads and later replacing it (if that's even possible?) Just pull it straight out with needle nose pliers?

Thanks!
I used pliers with gentle wiggle motion. They come off relatively easily. Dont worry.
Also, no need putting them back, if you do your pads / fluid that means you keep an eye on your brakes. Just zip tie them away.
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      06-15-2016, 09:26 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
I used pliers with gentle wiggle motion. They come off relatively easily. Dont worry.
Also, no need putting them back, if you do your pads / fluid that means you keep an eye on your brakes. Just zip tie them away.
Thanks. I was going to put the sensors back in the stock pads when I switch em out after track days.
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      06-22-2016, 09:15 PM   #96
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I changed my pads and discs/rotors yesterday and thought I'd make a video tutorial while I was doing it. I don't claim to be an expert, but hopefully it helps a few people out that have never done it before:

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      06-30-2016, 05:19 AM   #97
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Is this DIY the exact same for manual cars? I hear the clutch and brakes share the same fluid reservoir.
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      07-19-2016, 02:34 AM   #98
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I got a problem. I can't remove the rear brake pad pins, no matter how hard I hit them. I ended up nicking the paint nicely, but they are still so stuck. I'd much appreciate suggestions and advice. PB blaster? I got 5 more days to get it done until a track day.

Edit: PB blaster worked and a "nail setter" made the job much easier and clean. Now I can do these all for in 20 minutes without chipping paint on both side of caliper. (after already ruining 3 of mine lol)

One thing to add, when replacing a worn pad with a new one, there is not enough space as pistons are pushed in along the thinner old pad. It can be simply pushed by using a long screwdriver as a lever (make sure to protect rotor from metal contact of screwdriver).

Lastly, Thank OP for this DIY write up!
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Last edited by MyFragileHalogen; 07-20-2016 at 02:28 AM..
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      07-31-2016, 02:40 AM   #99
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Great DIY, did it today successfully (I think).

Anybody get very tiny bubbles when closing the bleeder valve? I was getting micro bubbles in my tube when the valve was closed. However, no new bubbles were coming out when opening and bleeding the fluid. 2 person method btw.
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      08-02-2016, 10:35 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
Correct, except Pagids don't have a slot for the wear sensors, so you just zip tie it away.
This is not true, the Pagid RS29's have a slot for the wear sensors.
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      08-03-2016, 03:30 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alz0rz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
Correct, except Pagids don't have a slot for the wear sensors, so you just zip tie it away.
This is not true, the Pagid RS29's have a slot for the wear sensors.
I stand corrected. I was swapping the pads two weeks ago and noticed they do.

BTW, disconnecting the wear sensors completely (removing from car) throws a warning on the cluster and tells you to go to service.
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      08-12-2016, 05:16 AM   #102
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Anyone know if it's okay to not re-punch the front pins all the way in?

The rears I got no problem, the fronts are giving me hell and I am still maybe a few mm from how it was originally. There's not much I can tap left from the back but I know it "can" go in more.
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      08-12-2016, 05:17 AM   #103
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Anyone know if it's okay to not re-punch the front pins all the way in?

The rears I got no problem, the fronts are giving me hell and I am still maybe a few mm from how it was originally. There's not much I can tap left from the back but I know it "can" go in more.
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      08-12-2016, 10:59 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocN55
Anyone know if it's okay to not re-punch the front pins all the way in?

The rears I got no problem, the fronts are giving me hell and I am still maybe a few mm from how it was originally. There's not much I can tap left from the back but I know it "can" go in more.
they can take some finesse and/or brute to get them in fully. I would try to fully seat them... the rear pins project a little more than the front if I remember correctly (fixed)
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      08-12-2016, 11:10 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanescent03 View Post
they can take some finesse and/or brute to get them in fully. I would try to fully seat them... the front pins project a little more than the rear if I remember correctly
for me the rears project much more.

I put the punch against the pin from the backside squeezing the punch with my two fingers at the very tip closest to the calliper and just hammer them in.
By holding the tip with the fingers and touching the pin and the calliper at the same time I can feel if the punch is sliding off with each hammer movement and can adjust the punch.

Just hammering on the pin itself directly from the back is risky for the calliper paint.
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      08-12-2016, 04:39 PM   #106
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Okay so after doing both the pads and fluid here are some things I want to add for other folks wanting to do this.

-Front punch size around 2.3 mm is perfect
-Rear around 3mm is perfect, though I'm sure the 2.3 would work
-You will likely end up chipping the back of the caliper (especially in the rear). no way around that since you have little room to work with to maneuver the hammer. Best thing you can do is get like a 3/8in drive extention or really anything that is small and hard to act as a buffer between the rear pin and the hammer. I liked using a 6in extension because I had a good grip on it with my left hand.
-This is a very messy job, old brake dust gets all over the floor so put something under for easy cleanup.
-Tube size for the bleeder is 1/4in

Most importantly, DO NOT do the fluid before the pads! I swaped fluid a couple weeks prior to my pads arriving and my reservoir was close to bursting since the new pads were compressing the pistons so much more. Mind you, I was between the middle of the max and min line prior so this should give a sense of how much the fluid level will go up.
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      08-21-2016, 12:25 PM   #107
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Does anyone use any-squeal on their Pagids? I'm about to swap my stock pads for my track pads.
Thanks.
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      08-21-2016, 12:59 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Mu
Does anyone use any-squeal on their Pagids? I'm about to swap my stock pads for my track pads.
Thanks.
I believe this has already been discussed in the thread.
I used some initially, but later stopped as it's useless. Proper bedding and cool down after track will result in much quieter rs29s than any amount of anti-squeal.
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      08-21-2016, 01:09 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
I believe this has already been discussed in the thread.
I used some initially, but later stopped as it's useless. Proper bedding and cool down after track will result in much quieter rs29s than any amount of anti-squeal.
Thanks.
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      08-27-2016, 10:58 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocN55
Okay so after doing both the pads and fluid here are some things I want to add for other folks wanting to do this.

-Front punch size around 2.3 mm is perfect
-Rear around 3mm is perfect, though I'm sure the 2.3 would work
-You will likely end up chipping the back of the caliper (especially in the rear). no way around that since you have little room to work with to maneuver the hammer. Best thing you can do is get like a 3/8in drive extention or really anything that is small and hard to act as a buffer between the rear pin and the hammer. I liked using a 6in extension because I had a good grip on it with my left hand.
-This is a very messy job, old brake dust gets all over the floor so put something under for easy cleanup.
-Tube size for the bleeder is 1/4in

Most importantly, DO NOT do the fluid before the pads! I swaped fluid a couple weeks prior to my pads arriving and my reservoir was close to bursting since the new pads were compressing the pistons so much more. Mind you, I was between the middle of the max and min line prior so this should give a sense of how much the fluid level will go up.
Good tips!

When I do mine for the first time I may wrap a rag around a thin sponge. Then put a hole in them to pass the punch through in order to protect the caliper. Id hate to chip the paint. Only because I'd be worried it would eventually chip off/peal in the front.


Thanks again!
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