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      09-23-2016, 06:28 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by 0-100 ninja real quick View Post
Is this for track people wanting to change their brakes? Thought we have 4 years free maintenance.
2016 will be the last year the maintenance includes brakes
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      01-11-2017, 03:00 PM   #112
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I just bled my brake fluid and noticed the next day I only did one side of the front calipers (outer side nipple). Do I need to go back and redo the fronts or is it good enough. I was going from stock fluid to Castrol SRF.
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      01-11-2017, 08:02 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidGP
I just bled my brake fluid and noticed the next day I only did one side of the front calipers (outer side nipple). Do I need to go back and redo the fronts or is it good enough. I was going from stock fluid to Castrol SRF.
you've already done more of a service to yourself and your car than most people would do ... your fluid replacement won't be 100% but you could argue that it never will be truly 100% replaced... my guess is you or no one would notice a difference either way. if you're going to be tracking it really hard sometime soon (before the next fluid change) then maybe finish the job to be safe, but again, I would be extremely surprised if there were a noticeable difference.
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      03-20-2017, 06:07 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by cw128 View Post
I changed my pads and discs/rotors yesterday and thought I'd make a video tutorial while I was doing it. I don't claim to be an expert, but hopefully it helps a few people out that have never done it before:

What are your thoughts on the yellowstuff pads after putting some miles on them? im in the UK also and have a track day at Cadwell park in a few weeks and thinking of changing from OEM for the day.

Did you run these all the time after fitting or change back to OEM? im sure they are better for track (fade etc) but do they squeal and shed tonnes of dust making them no good for daily driving thereafter?

Ive put a post on the main page but after seeing your video i thought you are the best person to ask! (sorry to duplicate the question here).
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      04-06-2017, 08:22 PM   #115
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now that its been a while, do they squeal when you apply the brakes after break in period? I am interested in purchasing paged brake pads
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      06-17-2017, 10:06 AM   #116
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That pin punch on ebay is no longer available it seems . Any other alternatives?

Also would this pad spreader work? It's only 16 bucks vs 50 for the other?

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Ins...e+pad+spreader
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      06-17-2017, 11:34 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Fu English View Post
That pin punch on ebay is no longer available it seems . Any other alternatives?

Also would this pad spreader work? It's only 16 bucks vs 50 for the other?

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Ins...e+pad+spreader
I use a 5/32 inch punch from home depot. It is in section with hammers and such. It came in a set of a few punches. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Will last a lifetime (for this use).

Spreaders only work if you take the caliper off. The rotor prevents use of piston spreaders while the caliper remains mounted to wheel hub assembly.
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      06-17-2017, 11:38 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Fu English View Post
That pin punch on ebay is no longer available it seems . Any other alternatives?

Also would this pad spreader work? It's only 16 bucks vs 50 for the other?

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Ins...e+pad+spreader
I use a 5/32 inch punch from home depot. It is in section with hammers and such. It came in a set of a few punches. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Will last a lifetime (for this use).

Spreaders only work if you take the caliper off. The rotor prevents use of piston spreaders while the caliper remains mounted to wheel hub assembly.
Oh damn you can't fit the spreader into the slot you take the pads out of?

Thanks for the punch recommendation.
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      06-18-2017, 08:11 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
I use a 5/32 inch punch from home depot. It is in section with hammers and such. It came in a set of a few punches. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Will last a lifetime (for this use).

Spreaders only work if you take the caliper off. The rotor prevents use of piston spreaders while the caliper remains mounted to wheel hub assembly.
Huh

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Fu English View Post
Oh damn you can't fit the spreader into the slot you take the pads out of?

Thanks for the punch recommendation.
I use the common spreader on my M3 without issue. I think the guy above wasnt using it correctly. Mine was probably 10 bucks?, does the trick!
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      06-19-2017, 02:17 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Fu English View Post
That pin punch on ebay is no longer available it seems . Any other alternatives?

Also would this pad spreader work? It's only 16 bucks vs 50 for the other?

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Ins...e+pad+spreader
I use a 5/32 inch punch from home depot. It is in section with hammers and such. It came in a set of a few punches. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Will last a lifetime (for this use).

Spreaders only work if you take the caliper off. The rotor prevents use of piston spreaders while the caliper remains mounted to wheel hub assembly.
Not true on the spreader. Pull pads out, insert spreader with enough space to allow the rotor in and then squeeze. I'd spend the extra five bucks and get a lisle spreader tho.
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      06-19-2017, 10:56 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by styler69 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Fu English View Post
That pin punch on ebay is no longer available it seems . Any other alternatives?

Also would this pad spreader work? It's only 16 bucks vs 50 for the other?

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Ins...e+pad+spreader
I use a 5/32 inch punch from home depot. It is in section with hammers and such. It came in a set of a few punches. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Will last a lifetime (for this use).

Spreaders only work if you take the caliper off. The rotor prevents use of piston spreaders while the caliper remains mounted to wheel hub assembly.
Not true on the spreader. Pull pads out, insert spreader with enough space to allow the rotor in and then squeeze. I'd spend the extra five bucks and get a lisle spreader tho.
One is 15 and the other is 50. So it's not just 5 bucks :/
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      06-20-2017, 04:57 PM   #122
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Did not know they made those tools. Interesting idea - design could be better thought out but they probably work as long as you don't apply too much pressure.

I suspect the screw one doesn't work well with 6 pot calipers. The paddles look too narrow to span 3 pots/side.
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      07-13-2017, 05:35 PM   #123
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Does anyone know the purpose of the little wings or tabs st the top of the pads? One of mine broke putting it in. Doesn't seem like it does anything. I'm going to contact the company but can I drive with it like this until a new one comes?
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      08-14-2017, 01:54 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Fu English View Post
Does anyone know the purpose of the little wings or tabs st the top of the pads? One of mine broke putting it in. Doesn't seem like it does anything. I'm going to contact the company but can I drive with it like this until a new one comes?
I think you're referring to the weight hanging off the exterior portion?? I have heard this helps with vibration/squealing maybe but not sure .. guessing you've been driving it around okay? Nice plate by the way ... did 5 months of that as part of my OMFS training!
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      09-26-2017, 11:19 AM   #125
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How many bottles would i need if i am changing from stock to Motul RBF600?
Will have the dealer do it.
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      09-26-2017, 07:20 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZAGA_M3 View Post
How many bottles would i need if i am changing from stock to Motul RBF600?
Will have the dealer do it.
I got 2L when I was changing from stock for first time. It is much more than needed, but you can't flush fully with just 1L, so rather have some left for next partial bleed.
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      09-26-2017, 07:21 PM   #127
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I got 2L when I was changing from stock for first time. It is much more than needed, but you can't flush fully with just 1L, so rather have some left for next partial bleed.
Thanks for the reply
I was thinking 1.5L, should be enough then i think?
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      09-26-2017, 07:37 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZAGA_M3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
I got 2L when I was changing from stock for first time. It is much more than needed, but you can't flush fully with just 1L, so rather have some left for next partial bleed.
Thanks for the reply
I was thinking 1.5L, should be enough then i think?
Castrol SFR that I use come in 1L bottles. So I had no in between option.

Racing fluid is certainly more expensive than your plain vanilla fluid, but still costs for an extra bottle are not high in relation to other brake components (and labor if you are having it done) But fluid can be "the weakest link" of the system.
What I am trying to say: get that extra bottle, you will use it up sooner or later. There is nothing worse than realizing you have bled too much in the first three corners and don't have enough fresh fluid left to flush one last front caliper. (Let alone not seeing that you are out of fluid in the pressured container and are pumping air in)
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      09-26-2017, 07:38 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs View Post
Castrol SFR that I use come in 1L bottles. So I had no in between option.

Racing fluid is certainly more expensive than your plain vanilla fluid, but still costs for an extra bottle are not high in relation to other brake components (and labor if you are having it done) But fluid can be "the weakest link" of the system.
What I am trying to say: get that extra bottle, you will use it up sooner or later. There is nothing worse than realizing you have bled too much in the first three corners and don't have enough fresh fluid left to flush one last front caliper. (Let alone not seeing that you are out of fluid in the pressured container and are pumping air in)
Fair enough..thanks again
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      08-13-2018, 09:49 AM   #130
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I recently changed my pads, and I hear what sounds like my caliper springs pop when I hit the brakes in reverse. Its the only time I would hear it. I'm wondering if I installed the spring upside down, or does it even matter? otherwise everything is perfect, no squeaks or squeals.
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      12-12-2018, 02:53 PM   #131
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Do the wear sensors need to be reset via the software somehow? I have swapped to Padgids for a track day and then reverted to nearly brand new OEM pads a week later. The car now states that I have only 17K miles to go before the front pads will wear out. Clearly, this is incorrect.
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      12-15-2018, 07:01 PM   #132
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Quote:
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Do the wear sensors need to be reset via the software somehow? I have swapped to Padgids for a track day and then reverted to nearly brand new OEM pads a week later. The car now states that I have only 17K miles to go before the front pads will wear out. Clearly, this is incorrect.
I never reset anything and always just have looked at my pads to determine "pad left? Yes or no?" I don't remember even having a life expectancy on my '15 or '16 M3... I have that on my '16 M6 now tho. Probably can't really be trusted and may be based on driving style vs actual thickness. I don't know.
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