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      10-26-2017, 04:01 PM   #1
E92VIP
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How do you adjust negative camber

I need negative camber to run 305 tire. How do you adjust? How much can it go? Pics would be great. My car is lowered with swift springs spec r. My rear size is 20x11 et 35 w/ mich sports 285/30/20

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      10-26-2017, 06:17 PM   #2
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Are you running 305/25 or 305/30?

305/30/20 is going to be tough without running.
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      10-26-2017, 11:08 PM   #3
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I as planning on running 305/25/20 if it doesnt rub like crazy. I can deal with a little rubbing for a better look and traxs
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      10-26-2017, 11:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92VIP View Post
I as planning on running 305/25/20 if it doesnt rub like crazy. I can deal with a little rubbing for a better look and traxs
No camber adjustment on the front without camber plates but there's a little camber adjustment that can be had on the rear.
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      10-26-2017, 11:56 PM   #5
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Assume you are talking about the rear, because 305s in front is incredibly unlikely for most poeple.

On the lower control arm (number 3), there is a bolt (number 14) that attaches the LCA to the wheel carrier, it has an elliptical washer on the bolt head and an indexed washer (number 12) that attaches to the nut side.

It's super simple to dial in a ton of camber in the rear, but super easy to mess up castor and all-around alignment as well.
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      10-27-2017, 12:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92VIP View Post
I need negative camber to run 305 tire. How do you adjust? How much can it go? Pics would be great. My car is lowered with swift springs spec r. My rear size is 20x11 et 35 w/ mich sports 285/30/20

Thanks
You adjust rear camber by turning the eccentric bolt that connects the control arm to the carrier. In the pic below, you can see that the eccentric bolt has a purple line marked on it.



The most camber you're gonna get from the rear is about -2.3 degrees of camber (give or take depending on how much you lower the car). When you get to that amount of negative camber, your toe setting will start to toe out. In order to bring the toe back in, you need to get toe arms (like the one pictured above).

All that being said, it's going to be unlikely that you will fit a 305 tire on a 11" wheel with an offset of 35 without rubbing on compression. Different tires have different tread widths, so some choices will have better clearance than others.

For example, I have a 20x11 et36 wheel with a 295x30x20 RE71R with -2.3 degrees of camber. The tire does rub a little on full compression. Keep in mind that the Bridgestone tread widths run pretty narrow compared to other brands like Michelin PSS and PS4.
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      10-27-2017, 10:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exo-shell View Post
You adjust rear camber by turning the eccentric bolt that connects the control arm to the carrier. In the pic below, you can see that the eccentric bolt has a purple line marked on it.



The most camber you're gonna get from the rear is about -2.3 degrees of camber (give or take depending on how much you lower the car). When you get to that amount of negative camber, your toe setting will start to toe out. In order to bring the toe back in, you need to get toe arms (like the one pictured above).

All that being said, it's going to be unlikely that you will fit a 305 tire on a 11" wheel with an offset of 35 without rubbing on compression. Different tires have different tread widths, so some choices will have better clearance than others.

For example, I have a 20x11 et36 wheel with a 295x30x20 RE71R with -2.3 degrees of camber. The tire does rub a little on full compression. Keep in mind that the Bridgestone tread widths run pretty narrow compared to other brands like Michelin PSS and PS4.

thank you very much!
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      10-28-2017, 05:18 PM   #8
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If you need more than what the factory can allow, you will need to get adjuster upper camber links from SPL, Dinan or Fallline just to name a few.
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      10-28-2017, 06:24 PM   #9
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GC makes the rear control arm kit (8 arms) for only $1,299... Personally, I am using T-Demands
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      11-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #10
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For reference, I'm running about the max stock camber adjustment allows at -2.2 in the rear running 295/30/20 P4S on a 20x11 +34 wheel. I don't hear any rubbing but the tire edge may be touching the inner felt liner which I can live with at hwy speed compression.

-2.2 is about the max I'm comfortable with to fit a rear wheel/tire. It looks cool/aggressive without being ghetto. A discerning eye can def see the neg camber. Fronts are set at -1.8 with no adjustment available on KW V3s. My alignment guy says that's a good ratio front to rear.
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      09-19-2019, 10:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Assume you are talking about the rear, because 305s in front is incredibly unlikely for most poeple.

On the lower control arm (number 3), there is a bolt (number 14) that attaches the LCA to the wheel carrier, it has an elliptical washer on the bolt head and an indexed washer (number 12) that attaches to the nut side.

It's super simple to dial in a ton of camber in the rear, but super easy to mess up castor and all-around alignment as well.
so you can get the camber on the rear that you want but eventually would throw off your toe and caster, the whole alignment would go bad right with out control arms and camber arms?
NEW to the forums.
thanks
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      09-19-2019, 12:07 PM   #12
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-2.2 is a lot of rear camber. That's an aesthetic thing only.

Reality is the car will tend toward understeer and you're also sacrificing grip on acceleration.

How tall is the tire? I have zero issues with 305/30/19 on a 19x11 at +35 with -1.6 camber.
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      09-24-2019, 10:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants View Post
-2.2 is a lot of rear camber. That's an aesthetic thing only.

Reality is the car will tend toward understeer and you're also sacrificing grip on acceleration.

How tall is the tire? I have zero issues with 305/30/19 on a 19x11 at +35 with -1.6 camber.
I'm going to be putting on 305/30/19s at +34 so nearly identical. Just to confirm, you don't see any rubbing at all with -1.6 camber?
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      09-25-2019, 12:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porsha View Post
I'm going to be putting on 305/30/19s at +34 so nearly identical. Just to confirm, you don't see any rubbing at all with -1.6 camber?
Correct. Lowered on Eibach springs, little bit of toe-in, and -1.6 camber and no rubbing. I've never heard it rub, don't see evidence on the tire. Never looked in the wheelwheel to check. The 305/30-19 is also a slightly shorter tire than the stock 275/35 (10mm smaller diameter).
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      09-25-2019, 12:43 PM   #15
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I had Zero issue with my previous set up Re-11 305-30-19 swift spring.
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      09-27-2019, 11:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants View Post
Correct. Lowered on Eibach springs, little bit of toe-in, and -1.6 camber and no rubbing. I've never heard it rub, don't see evidence on the tire. Never looked in the wheelwheel to check. The 305/30-19 is also a slightly shorter tire than the stock 275/35 (10mm smaller diameter).
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Originally Posted by bmpclc View Post
I had Zero issue with my previous set up Re-11 305-30-19 swift spring.
Glad to hear it. I have the set at home waiting and started to get worried - but hopefully I'll be fine.
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      09-27-2019, 04:18 PM   #17
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Adding too much rear camber reduces the amount of grip, so what is the point of installing wider tires if it forces to increase rear camber beyond the optimal level?
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      10-11-2019, 06:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
Adding too much rear camber reduces the amount of grip, so what is the point of installing wider tires if it forces to increase rear camber beyond the optimal level?
Agree. Ok, i understand it purely for looks but for performance and tire wear it's not a good idea. And the lower the profile is the less camber should be used because the tire doesn't "deforms" as much with such a low tirewall.
Personally i have reduced camber just at the lower limit of the recommended setting to 1,2 degrees to get more grip on the street when accelerating, which increases camber even more.
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