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      06-09-2015, 11:17 PM   #45
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Don't hesitate to tell your service advisor you track your car. Our cars were made to be tracked.
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      06-17-2015, 02:50 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Don't hesitate to tell your service advisor you track your car. Our cars were made to be tracked.
+1. BMW actually want you to join the BMW CCA and track your car. Once you're hooked, you'll never buy anything else. This trick works, at least on me.

Unlike the poor GTR / EVO owners, they can't tell the dealers they used the launch control or have to hide the fact their cars were tracked. Why the hell Nissan puts launch control on the GTR when the warranty gets voided if you use it? Their warranty gets voided if they turn VDC off. I had an EVO IX in 2007, the dealer accused me to drag racing (which I did) and refused to replace my clutch under warranty.

Thank God BMW actually want you to have some fun with your car.
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      06-17-2015, 04:43 PM   #47
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Installed my RS29-s yesterday. Took me more like 3 hours instead of 1. The pins are a bit of PITA. They dont seem to go back in that easily.

On the bright side: pads are wonderful. Bedded them in really well. Driving them around the city no squeal at all. With windows down in underground parking you can barely hear some more friction sound. Also when changing rolling direction between D and R they make a clunking noise as they seem to be a tiny bit smaller than the OEMs and move in the caliper with the rotors. No big deal.
Will test them on Sunday on track.
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      06-17-2015, 07:57 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs
Installed my RS29-s yesterday. Took me more like 3 hours instead of 1. The pins are a bit of PITA. They dont seem to go back in that easily.

On the bright side: pads are wonderful. Bedded them in really well. Driving them around the city no squeal at all. With windows down in underground parking you can barely hear some more friction sound. Also when changing rolling direction between D and R they make a clunking noise as they seem to be a tiny bit smaller than the OEMs and move in the caliper with the rotors. No big deal.
Will test them on Sunday on track.
The first time can take a little bit longer? as with most other things but I put my stock pads back in yesterday in about 40 minutes or so using a floor jack. with the pins you need to make sure you punch them far enough back initially and then it helps to hold the clip with your other hand to take some tension off the pins and they will come out pretty easily. Putting the pins back in takes a little bit of wiggling and repositioning but again if you put a little pressure on the spring and helps prevent redirecting the pin. What was the procedure used for bedding The pads? My bedding procedure was pretty loose this time but seemed to work better than most of my previous bedding procedures (following Hawk protocol) ...
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      06-17-2015, 07:58 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodengun View Post
Don't hesitate to tell your service advisor you track your car. Our cars were made to be tracked.
+1. BMW actually want you to join the BMW CCA and track your car. Once you're hooked, you'll never buy anything else. This trick works, at least on me.

Unlike the poor GTR / EVO owners, they can't tell the dealers they used the launch control or have to hide the fact their cars were tracked. Why the hell Nissan puts launch control on the GTR when the warranty gets voided if you use it? Their warranty gets voided if they turn VDC off. I had an EVO IX in 2007, the dealer accused me to drag racing (which I did) and refused to replace my clutch under warranty.

Thank God BMW actually want you to have some fun with your car.
good information? I like being honest but at the same time I don't feel like I always need to disclose everything. Good to know BMW takes care of the track community. All that GTR nonsense makes me not want one anymore? :
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      06-24-2015, 06:13 PM   #50
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So there is any news about the Pagid?
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      06-25-2015, 03:04 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanescent03
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs
Installed my RS29-s yesterday. Took me more like 3 hours instead of 1. The pins are a bit of PITA. They dont seem to go back in that easily.

On the bright side: pads are wonderful. Bedded them in really well. Driving them around the city no squeal at all. With windows down in underground parking you can barely hear some more friction sound. Also when changing rolling direction between D and R they make a clunking noise as they seem to be a tiny bit smaller than the OEMs and move in the caliper with the rotors. No big deal.
Will test them on Sunday on track.
The first time can take a little bit longer? as with most other things but I put my stock pads back in yesterday in about 40 minutes or so using a floor jack. with the pins you need to make sure you punch them far enough back initially and then it helps to hold the clip with your other hand to take some tension off the pins and they will come out pretty easily. Putting the pins back in takes a little bit of wiggling and repositioning but again if you put a little pressure on the spring and helps prevent redirecting the pin. What was the procedure used for bedding The pads? My bedding procedure was pretty loose this time but seemed to work better than most of my previous bedding procedures (following Hawk protocol) ...
For sure there is a learning curve. But I can't imagine doing it in under one hour.

As for bedding I just drove 15 mins to the closest autobahn at night and took a dozen hard brakings 100-20 kmh and then 150-50 and then 200-50.
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      07-12-2015, 11:51 AM   #52
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Do I need to bed in the OEM pads after putting them back in?
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      07-12-2015, 12:55 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs
Do I need to bed in the OEM pads after putting them back in?
I didn't ... and from everything I've every heard it's not necessary. probably because they are designed to work (and bed back in) at "normal" temperatures.
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      07-12-2015, 07:24 PM   #54
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i'm swapping my front pads to Pagid RS29s this week. just wanna confirm with you guys the following sequence...

1) break loose front wheel bolts
2) jack up front of car
3) remove wheels
4) pop out pins (watch out for flying spring)
5) push pads outwards (against caliper)
6) remove pads
7) remove pad sensor
8) lube up pad backing, the slots where the pins go thru, pins, with anti-squeal compound
9) install pads, pad sensor
10) replace pins and spring
11) remount wheels
12) hand tight wheel bolts in 'star' pattern
13) lower car
14) torque wheel bolts to 110 lb-ft

sounds about right?
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      07-12-2015, 08:46 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillindrdude
i'm swapping my front pads to Pagid RS29s this week. just wanna confirm with you guys the following sequence...
Correct, except Pagids don't have a slot for the wear sensors, so you just zip tie it away. (Oh and there is only one sensor per axle)
Also, I found it much easier by using a proper caliper spreader tool, costs a few bucks, but does the job so much better. I have mixed feelings pressing the pad against the rotor as a lever.
As for lubing, I didn't bother for the pads, it's for the track. However I did put some on the pins later on to make them slide in easier. They require quite some hammering to go fully back in place.
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      07-13-2015, 10:27 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs
Quote:
Originally Posted by chillindrdude
i'm swapping my front pads to Pagid RS29s this week. just wanna confirm with you guys the following sequence...
Correct, except Pagids don't have a slot for the wear sensors, so you just zip tie it away. (Oh and there is only one sensor per axle)
Also, I found it much easier by using a proper caliper spreader tool, costs a few bucks, but does the job so much better. I have mixed feelings pressing the pad against the rotor as a lever.
As for lubing, I didn't bother for the pads, it's for the track. However I did put some on the pins later on to make them slide in easier. They require quite some hammering to go fully back in place.
agree... and the spreader probably is helpful ... I've had good success with just squeezing hard with my hands but probably adds a little hassle. any leverage I use is a broad/smooth sort and appppppears not to cause any damage, def need to be careful though.
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      07-13-2015, 11:12 AM   #57
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I actually really like the Brake Calipers on this car. It's super easy. I owned a GTR so the process is really the same, but with less steps.

I also Take the Cap of the brake reservoir to relieve the Master Cylinder. I actually blew a seal on my E92 Master compressing the pistons with the reservoir cap left on.

But yeah:

Use a punch the remove the pins. Remove the spring. I punch one pin first, then pull out the spring and then punch out the other pin. The pins come in and out easier if you can take the tension off them from the spring. I own a spreader so I use that until the pads bottom out. Pull up the pads, slip in the new ones. Put the Pin back in on one side first with no spring so the resistance doesn't work against you. Slip the spring in, and compress it by hand or with a tool and punch the other pin back in. To prevent chipping the caliper I seat the pin with the broad side of another punch I don't use. I also use a compact ball peen as my tool. Pretty much the same process for the rear. Zip tie the Sensor out of the way. I've actually just left mine out permanently.
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      07-18-2015, 11:48 PM   #58
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I installed my pagid rs29's tonight. It was a breeze with all the information from this thread. It took me about an hour and a half for all 4 wheels and I was taking my time. I think it will go much faster next time. Thanks!

I didn't do the bleed because my dealer had recently done it for me. I used an allen wrench for my punch. Did not need a spreader. Took the car out to bed in the pads and really like the bite they have. Not much squeak so far and not much clunk going from Park to Reverse as others have mentioned.

Thanks for all the advice
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      07-19-2015, 07:01 AM   #59
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Yep, the pad swap on this car is a cinch! Thanks to you guys.

The pagids are f-ing incredible thus far at VIR. I am shortening my braking zones even as I am picking up overall pace. No detectable fade either.
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      08-26-2015, 03:01 AM   #60
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Great write up. I installed my Winmax pads yesterday evening. Easiest brake job ever.

I also took the time to bleed and top up with Motul RBF600.

If you have access to an air compressor a bleeder like this makes it even easier:
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV6835.../dp/B0015POUXM

There are cheaper ones out there, I think I bought mine for ~$90. Worth every penny
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      09-04-2015, 07:44 AM   #61
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Did the brake pad swap myself too. Really easy, thanks to this write-up.
The only part I didn't understand was why the XP12/XP10 don't come with an usable wear sensor slot; the pad is only partly cut...
Oh...and hammering the pins back is not easy in the rear without nicking the paint a little.
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      09-04-2015, 08:09 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo871
Did the brake pad swap myself too. Really easy, thanks to this write-up.
The only part I didn't understand was why the XP12/XP10 don't come with an usable wear sensor slot; the pad is only partly cut...
Oh...and hammering the pins back is not easy in the rear without nicking the paint a little.
agreed about the pins. using something broad helps to prevent slipping off but it's a slight trick to get it done cleanly. each time I've done it it's gotten better though!

also not sure about the pads, sounds weird,maybe they had a reason for doing it that way but I can't think of one! will you be tracking the car on those pads?
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      09-05-2015, 06:16 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo871
Did the brake pad swap myself too. Really easy, thanks to this write-up.
The only part I didn't understand was why the XP12/XP10 don't come with an usable wear sensor slot; the pad is only partly cut...
Oh...and hammering the pins back is not easy in the rear without nicking the paint a little.
After a few nasty paint chips, I now use the pin punch for the reverse operation as well.
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      09-05-2015, 05:43 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojs
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo871
Did the brake pad swap myself too. Really easy, thanks to this write-up.
The only part I didn't understand was why the XP12/XP10 don't come with an usable wear sensor slot; the pad is only partly cut...
Oh...and hammering the pins back is not easy in the rear without nicking the paint a little.
After a few nasty paint chips, I now use the pin punch for the reverse operation as well.
I flip mine around, using and hold the wide side of the punch against the pin (holding the pin and punch in between my fingers) and *tap,tap,tap* it in
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      09-13-2015, 09:47 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitesurfer View Post
Here is tip if have pressure bleeder and just want to bleed the brakes in couple of minutes before your next track day and not have the PITA messy bottle to clean up.....
Use the Pressure bleeder to pressurize the system without putting any fluid in the bottle and bleed the brakes. Then use a clamp to clamp off the hose when depressurizing the bottle and this will keep Fluid from traveling back into the Pressure bottle. Remember to add to fluid back in the reservoir.
This.

I hate wasting expensive SRF fluid and hate the thought of "reusing" fluid that has been sitting in the bleeder bottle. I can usually do two corners before having to refill the master cylinder reservoir, so only really need to disconnect the pressure bleeder once. I haven't worried about a clamp, just unscrew the bleeder top slowly while under pressure.
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      10-25-2015, 10:42 AM   #66
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I used this how-to, and it works great. I would add the following to help others doing this for the first time:

[] 1/8" pin punch is the perfect size, but would wrap the tip with masking tape so it doesn't chip caliper paint.

[] Re-punching in the pin- I used a small universal adapter from a wrench with a flat square tip on one end and connector on the other, and wrapped it in masking tape. I then used the flat side of a adjustable wrench (also wrapped in track tape), and banged that against the adapter to punch in the pin. You've really got to whack it hard and multiple times to ensure it gets in - no scratches : )

[] As you remove the top pin, just depress the top part of the spring and it will slide right out.

[] As you put back the top pin with the spring in place, push down the spring and adjust up to ensure everything is snug, this will ensure pushing the top pin back in place will slide straight and onto the other side of the caliper.

[] Before taking out of brake pad with Sensor, just use sharp nose pliers to grip and gently remove it. OP is right that if you try to pull the caliper out it will probably damage it.

[] Before you begin, and as you proceed, take notice of how the pads look fitted, the visible amount of the pin on each end, so you know it's been punched back into place properly etc.

Last edited by S65V8; 10-28-2015 at 05:25 AM..
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