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      02-14-2018, 11:03 PM   #1
knightarmor
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MP HAS Install- Some DIY Tips

Alright so I finally have some time to post up some in process pics. Not alot but hopefully enough to help someone else who decides to take this on. First off mad props to MasterC17. Without his how-with the KW HAS it wouldn't have been as easy as it turned out to be (even though it was still a pain in the butt!).

For those interested I purchased this kit from Getbmwparts.com, communication was great and shipping was fast.

I spread the install out over two nights because yes I am just that busy! I've marked up the pictures accordingly with some things I thought haven't been documented very well yet. Any additional questions please ask.

I started with the rears, pretty straight forward if you've done a BMW suspension that's a few years old before. I did the Ohlins R&T on my 135i which I believe helped me out a bit here since this is only my fourth RWD drive car I've ever owned, and only the second with independent rear suspension.

The fronts were pretty easy overall except for the part of installing the M Performance coilover sleeve onto the OE strut. Because I don't have a hydraulic press I used the BFH approach. Amazingly everything turned out perfect. I did used a special tool I have to pound onto the OE spring seat that I used as the tool to hammer the coilover sleeve onto the strut. I did use the Emmanuel Designs method on removing the strut/spring from the car which saved a ton of time.

For reference I had my i-step firmware updated late last year which made several improvements to the overall performance of my M including the suspension which I only found after the firmware update was just terrible from the factory.

I'm riding on my 18" winter wheels/tires right now but i'll be slapping the 19's on over the weekend to make final checks before heading to alignment next week. Currently as the M sits in the pictures it's 1/4" lower that OE height in the rear and 1" lower in the front.

Also added a picture of one of the front springs where the coating was already chipped off from the manufacturer. Argh! Oh well...
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Last edited by knightarmor; 02-14-2018 at 11:15 PM..
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      02-14-2018, 11:10 PM   #2
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More pics.

One tip here, remove the decal labels from your struts (there are two decals on each strut). It will make installing the new spring sleeve easier. I took a picture of my labels just in case I ever need them in the future.

I also sprayed a little WD-40 on a rag and wiped the inside of the aluminum MP HAS spring seat to give it a thin layer of lube. Don't know how much it helped but every little bit counts when you're installing the sleeves like this!
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      02-14-2018, 11:14 PM   #3
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Looks like my marks up didn't make into one of the strut pics!

Adding this pic
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      02-14-2018, 11:25 PM   #4
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Oh and this pic, which is also in the main MP HAS thread.

I'll take final measurements this weekend and post up so if anyone else wants a good starting point for their install.

Also, there is about 3/4" left to go down in the rear at my current settings and literally a couple of inches in the front. So if someone really wanted to I believe you could slam the car on this setup, or at least be bottomed out on the shocks!
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      02-15-2018, 10:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knightarmor View Post
Looks like my marks up didn't make into one of the strut pics!

Adding this pic

What did you use to hammer the sleeve on? I thought it took a ton of force to prevent it from sliding/moving around after the install?
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      02-15-2018, 10:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by espressoo View Post
What did you use to hammer the sleeve on? I thought it took a ton of force to prevent it from sliding/moving around after the install?
I used a Big Freakin Hammer (BFH)

Along with a handle from an Olympus microscope (my special tool left over from a big microscope used in a Semiconductor) which is made out of some crazy strong material because it doesn't even look like I hit it.

As per the KW HAS install DIY I used the OEM strut seat that I pulled off as my main "press on" tool.

Not the ideal way to do it but it works.
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      02-15-2018, 07:19 PM   #7
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Proper DIY.

I'll link it in the MP HAS thread, and the Suspension Master thread.
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      02-16-2018, 10:52 AM   #8
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thanks for the walkthrough! i was hoping the drop would be a little lower in the front, as i was considering purchasing these as well.
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      02-16-2018, 06:08 PM   #9
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Slapped the 19's on last night. I still need to lower the rear some more. Front is perfect for me though.

*Although I should point out at that as I lower the rear the weight shift from front to rear may allow the front to go up a bit so I may need to adjust the front to maintain the ride height that I desire. Will make changes tonight. M is still riding freaking awesome though!
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Last edited by knightarmor; 02-16-2018 at 06:24 PM..
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      02-17-2018, 12:00 PM   #10
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Show more of the rear install and give it to BMW to show their techs so that they stop screwing up installs for their customers and our forum mates!
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      02-17-2018, 12:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knightarmor View Post
Slapped the 19's on last night. I still need to lower the rear some more. Front is perfect for me though.

*Although I should point out at that as I lower the rear the weight shift from front to rear may allow the front to go up a bit so I may need to adjust the front to maintain the ride height that I desire. Will make changes tonight. M is still riding freaking awesome though!
This stance looks perfect. I went to raise my rears while I had the jack out from installing my new lip but I wasn't able to get a good turn on the wrench with all the stuff in the way (I didnt feel like taking off my wheels) so I left it where it is. I'm happy either way with mine but I think yours is good as-is.
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      02-17-2018, 08:30 PM   #12
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Okay made more adjustments and I am almost where I want to be. I'm also keeping in mind it'll be a couple thousand miles for the suspension to fully settle. I might bring the front up a full turn on the perch. Still debating.

This is lowered approx. an additional 6mm in the rear. Lowered approx. 2.5mm in the front (1/10"). Total lowered overall from factory is ~30mm in the front and 15mm in the rear.
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      02-17-2018, 08:32 PM   #13
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It would help if I added the pictures...
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      02-18-2018, 04:56 PM   #14
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Made final adjustments today and threw my winter wheels back on as it's snowing here. Went up in the front and kept the rear as is from my previous adjustment. I've marked up the pictures with my final measurements for anyone else who decides to set this up themselves it'll give you a good idea of where to start.

Thanks to Jaymax85 and ferrarif1 for dimensions on the sleeves on where to start, although Jaymax85's is the one I went with for the front (4cm or 40mm), my final measurement is 45mm for the front.

In the rear I'm almost max'd out with a 5mm gap remaining.

My final overall drop is 1" in the front (25.4mm) and 1/2" in the back (12.7mm).

Another tip for anyone who hasn't done this, you can use compressed air to clean the threads of any debris prior to make adjustments (especially when the threads are inside the coil spring). Or you can also use a plastic bristle brush (I took some pics) to make sure you don't capture any debris between the threads on the sleeve and the perch. This makes adjustment in the future very unfriendly!

Again sorry for the crappy winter pic, I'll take more pics in the spring when the 19's go back on for a few months. I'll post updates here if anything comes up over the next few weeks. Alignment is happening this Friday!
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      02-19-2018, 06:27 PM   #15
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      02-19-2018, 11:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knightarmor View Post
Made final adjustments today and threw my winter wheels back on as it's snowing here. Went up in the front and kept the rear as is from my previous adjustment. I've marked up the pictures with my final measurements for anyone else who decides to set this up themselves it'll give you a good idea of where to start.

Thanks to Jaymax85 and ferrarif1 for dimensions on the sleeves on where to start, although Jaymax85's is the one I went with for the front (4cm or 40mm), my final measurement is 45mm for the front.

In the rear I'm almost max'd out with a 5mm gap remaining.

My final overall drop is 1" in the front (25.4mm) and 1/2" in the back (12.7mm).
Why is that blue collar piece between the spring and nut so thick? If it were thinner it would allow more drop...
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      02-20-2018, 05:19 PM   #17
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Can you be more specific how you removed the stock spring collar from the strut and installed the new one?

Also, can you elaborate on: "the Emmanuel Designs method on removing the strut/spring from the car which saved a ton of time."

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by knightarmor View Post
I used a Big Freakin Hammer (BFH)

Along with a handle from an Olympus microscope (my special tool left over from a big microscope used in a Semiconductor) which is made out of some crazy strong material because it doesn't even look like I hit it.

As per the KW HAS install DIY I used the OEM strut seat that I pulled off as my main "press on" tool.

Not the ideal way to do it but it works.
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      02-20-2018, 05:33 PM   #18
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Yes, here's the link to the KW HAS DIY- To remove the OEM spring mount from the strut.
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1071406

Here's the link to the Emmanuelle Designs springs installation which does not involve disassembling the entire front strut brace assembly area.
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      02-20-2018, 05:38 PM   #19
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Oh weird. They don't remove the strut mount and use a spring compressor? Yeah I don't like that idea, you can't ensure it's seated properly or torqued right. They also removed the camber adjusting bolt in the rear throwing off alignment? From a review of another DIY for KW HAS, Is the camber bolt on the knuckle now not on the subframe like an e92? if so that inner bolt is ok on rear and easier for sure.

You did it this way with the front? Any alignment issues? To me this seems no bueno as you can't get it perfect and torqued? Although it looks like you need to use a proper tool to set the torque. with that weird open strut socket?

Here is that open ended strut 18mm socket. You can buy it here:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-01/

Here's a good pic of it. http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...90&postcount=5

This DIY is probably how I will be doing it.

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=31
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      02-20-2018, 10:13 PM   #20
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It's actually pretty difficult to not seat the front strut properly, an experienced person should be able to get it right no matter what.

I was a bit hesitant to try it the way they did the Emmanuelle springs but after really getting under there it was a no brainer for me ( I also have a lift which makes things alot easier).

Once you lower the car your alignment is off anyway, mark the camber bolt so you know how to place it back in the original orientation. I recommend removing the two outer bolts when doing the rear suspension, but that's just me.

For any DIY'er that doesn't have experience I always tell them to take their time, be patient and whatever you do don't panic!!
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      02-20-2018, 10:18 PM   #21
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Right on. Maybe I'll try it. It certainly would save a ton of time. I ordered the strut socket so I can torque it on the car anyhow. Thanks!
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      02-21-2018, 10:43 AM   #22
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Good DIY tips.

I like how this video did the front springs.



This video rear spring install seems easier.

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