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      03-12-2019, 02:12 PM   #1
drroc
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$200 brake ducts for all four corners

The following parts are necessary

2 of these for brake duct inlets for $44
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3627

2.5 high temp silicone hose (about 10ft is needed) $100
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3621

4 2.5inch aluminum flanges $40
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...uctflanges.php

Necessary tools
long zip ties, small rivets, rivet gun, 2.5inch hole saw drill bit, and metric sockets. The largest socket is 18mm.

The pictures should be self-explanatory.

For the rear brake shields, I didn't feel like taking them off as it requires removing the parking brake. I just ended up drilling them and using the rivet gun while they were on the car.

Edit: I would not recommend going with the 3 inch hose as that will cause clearance issues. As is, the car will catch the quick jack stand in its lowest setting if I drive on top of it. I don't have issues with speed bumps because the intakes are close to the tires. As long as the body of the car rises with the tires, then things are fine.
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Last edited by drroc; 03-12-2019 at 02:18 PM..
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      03-12-2019, 05:26 PM   #2
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Great write up!

I have been thinking about fabbing up a front set to the M4 GT4 lower splitter location.

I have that MPP splitter so that offer a mounting point for a duct.
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      03-12-2019, 06:48 PM   #3
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Thank you for this great how to! Very informative and affordable.
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      03-12-2019, 07:00 PM   #4
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Cool. How much time did it take you to complete?
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      03-12-2019, 08:49 PM   #5
drroc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aliiin View Post
Cool. How much time did it take you to complete?
The rears were probably under 2.5hrs total. The fronts took quite a bit of time due to planning, measuring, and trying to figure out what to do with the intakes. I can probably do the whole thing in about 3 hrs now that I know what exactly needs to be done.
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      03-12-2019, 08:57 PM   #6
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Subbed, need to do this soon!
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      03-12-2019, 10:33 PM   #7
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One thing which I forgot to mention is that there is no need to remove the pads from the calipers. You can just undo the two 18mm bolts and just slide the caliper off the rotor. You need to wiggle it a bit to put it back on, but its not too bad. This saves a decent amount of time.
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      04-05-2019, 12:15 AM   #8
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This is great! reminds me of the ducts I made for the E90...
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      04-05-2019, 11:30 PM   #9
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Great DIY write up! Thanks for taking the time to document the process.
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      04-15-2019, 02:12 PM   #10
drroc
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So I had the car at Laguna Seca with speeddistrict on Apr 5th. I ran it in the dry and also wet sessions. The front ducts worked exceptionally well. There was no pinging from the rotors and the amount of radiated heat was far less compared to my last Laguna outing. The rear ducts didn't work as well, as the rear rotors pinged quite a bit and felt much warmer compared to the fronts. I think some sort of inlet is required to improve the airflow.

As far as clearance goes, I did manage to tear the right front duct a bit. I think this was on turn 6 as it really compresses the car if you hit it just right.

Here is my run of 1:47.2
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      04-15-2019, 03:27 PM   #11
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And here is the pic of the ducts in action
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      06-15-2019, 11:50 PM   #12
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Have you thought about using these?https://new.minimania.com/part/NMB40...Mini-Cooper--S Looks like it will tuck under during compression of the suspension
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      06-18-2019, 02:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline10000 View Post
Have you thought about using these?https://new.minimania.com/part/NMB40...Mini-Cooper--S Looks like it will tuck under during compression of the suspension
I actually haven't seen these when I was looking. It might work, but it will require the hose outlet to be more in the wheel well so that the hose will clear. I would need to do some measurements to see if this would work. Thanks for the link.

The damage to the hose has been pretty minimal, and it still continued to work, but it would be nice to avoid replacing the hose every now and again. The hose is like $100 for 10ft, and these mini scoops are $60 each. Also, the inlet being 2.5'' tall still takes a beating. It is definitely a wear item. I might also try to move my current inlets closer to the wheel.
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      06-19-2019, 09:29 PM   #14
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I just ordered those scoops to test fit. Will let you know if they fit or not. Need some cooling before my next track day.
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      06-23-2019, 03:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drroc View Post
I actually haven't seen these when I was looking. It might work, but it will require the hose outlet to be more in the wheel well so that the hose will clear. I would need to do some measurements to see if this would work. Thanks for the link.

The damage to the hose has been pretty minimal, and it still continued to work, but it would be nice to avoid replacing the hose every now and again. The hose is like $100 for 10ft, and these mini scoops are $60 each. Also, the inlet being 2.5'' tall still takes a beating. It is definitely a wear item. I might also try to move my current inlets closer to the wheel.
Just did a test fit and they are perfect. I still have 3.5 inches of ground clearance.
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      06-25-2019, 01:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline10000 View Post
Just did a test fit and they are perfect. I still have 3.5 inches of ground clearance.
Can you send me a pic of it when it is test fitted on your car?
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      06-25-2019, 08:22 PM   #17
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Hereís a few pics

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com

View post on imgur.com
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      06-26-2019, 03:54 PM   #18
drroc
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The main problem I see is that the air stream will need to make a full 180 to get in front of the caliper.

Edit: if you can find a way to move the duct more forward and it attach it with the existing body/sheet metal screws, then the airflow should be smoother.
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      06-30-2019, 05:30 PM   #19
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Good point but I like that itís tucked out of way and hopefully wonít get hit during suspension compression. I have seen this setup on the M2 and in the Mini Cooper and it works for them with the exact same scoop. I plan on testing with a leaf blower to see much air makes it through.
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