BMW M Performance Suspension (HAS height adjustable sleeve over kit)

[figure99]

Originally Posted by jww///95

Is the shock additionally limiting travel? I'd try disconnecting one end of the shock to see if it buys you a bit more travel before disconnecting the LCA.

I'm not sure... suspension is one area I typically don't work on myself, can the shock easily be removed and reinstalled? Regardless the dealer has agreed to readjust it for me since they messed it up in the first place.

The dealer did say they would NOT apply any adhesive where the top piece and body mate since "BMW doesn't recommend" it. I'm skeptical of that, does anyone know if that's true? I've read several posts where members have had success having their dealer apply an adhesive such as betalink here.

[MarkG_M5Comp]

Just jumping on this thread as I've recently have my car (HAS installed Nov '17) geo aligned and corner balanced by a professional workshop (not BMW!).

After less than a year on the car, albeit in the UK climate, none of the adjusters moved.

To get the rears moving:
Drop links disconnected, on the right side the lower control arm was released on the inner end, then a Mercedes spring compressor used to take the tension off, while in the left side just the spring compressor worked.
Even after freeing up, each subsequent adjustment needed the spring compressor.

On the front:
Unlike the KW kit, the retraining grub screw is made of hardened steel! KW use nylon.
On the right side this was completed seized into the aly ring and since it is a much harder material, could not be extracted at all. We decided to drill and tap a new retaining screw which I find unacceptable.

If you have the kit I'd suggest replacing the grub screws up front with a softer material or better still a bolt with a head.

On the rear, pick up a set of Mercedes apron compressors (the small type that fit inside the spring and tighten from below.

I also recommend 100% getting a full and proper geo/corner balance - I'll never go back to BMW for KDS again.

[nlpamg]

I've had over a year with the M Performance Suspension and some track days on it.

It still feels great and handles great.

Here it is at the track:

[MarkG_M5Comp]

Originally Posted by nlpamg

I've had over a year with the M Performance Suspension and some track days on it.

It still feels great and handles great.

Here it is at the track:

Looks beautiful - I have a picture like that but alas your backdrop is cooler...

[f80 zcp dom]

Lowered on m performance suspension zcp comp pack rims, what size spacers should I run? Tire specs are 265/30/20 front and 295/30/20 rear
Thanks

[figure99]

Originally Posted by f80 zcp dom

Lowered on m performance suspension zcp comp pack rims, what size spacers should I run? Tire specs are 265/30/20 front and 295/30/20 rear
Thanks

Most people run 12mm front / 10mm rear.

[figure99]

Originally Posted by MarkG_M3CP

To get the rears moving:
Drop links disconnected, on the right side the lower control arm was released on the inner end, then a Mercedes spring compressor used to take the tension off, while in the left side just the spring compressor worked.
Even after freeing up, each subsequent adjustment needed the spring compressor.


On the rear, pick up a set of Mercedes apron compressors (the small type that fit inside the spring and tighten from below.

So I finally had the dealer set the car at the height I originally requested, however I now feel like it's still about 5 mm too low. I'm wondering if I can accomplish this by slightly compressing the spring with a spring compressor to reduce the tension just enough to raise it 5 mm.

Why weren't you able to use only a spring compressor on both side?

Can I ask which specific spring compressor you used? I see cheap ones on ebay for less than $100... I probably wouldn't be comfortable using a cheap spring compressor to completely remove/install springs, however it may be all that is needed if the springs only need to be compressed a little bit. What do you think?

-

[Tinilp]

Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.

[ra2289]

Originally Posted by Tinilp

Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.

Damn...well at least their price for shop supplies is very reasonable.

I'd be doing the same as you if I got a quote that high. I also would have laughed my why out of that shop.

[frankiebones]

Originally Posted by Tinilp

Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.

Dear god. Good luck sir.

[shay2nak]

WOW

[philmots]

Regarding warranty.

I don’t trust a dealer to install these properly, would much rather take them to a place who deals with this stuff day in and out.

I’m not bothered for the warranty on the parts, or paying to have them swapped out if something fails.

I’m more bothered about what would happen if an edc damper failed and I took it into the dealer to claim, would they throw the claim out on the damper because the springs were installed by an Indy?

Cheers

[Budget M3]

Originally Posted by Tinilp

Just be happy you guys don't live in Hawaii. Here's the quote I got to install HAS springs from a local shop

Looks like YouTube and a 12-pack in the garage it is.

Dear god! It may be time to retire to Hawaii and open a BMW performance shop!

[figure99]

Originally Posted by figure99

So I finally had the dealer set the car at the height I originally requested, however I now feel like it's still about 5 mm too low. I'm wondering if I can accomplish this by slightly compressing the spring with a spring compressor to reduce the tension just enough to raise it 5 mm.

Why weren't you able to use only a spring compressor on both side?

Can I ask which specific spring compressor you used? I see cheap ones on ebay for less than $100... I probably wouldn't be comfortable using a cheap spring compressor to completely remove/install springs, however it may be all that is needed if the springs only need to be compressed a little bit. What do you think?

-

I'm finally getting it closer to what I like. For whatever reason I tried again and was able to successfully adjust both rear sides by about 5mm (higher). The car is still very clean, so no grime or dirt in the threads luckily... I raised both sides, used compressed air anyway, and it worked.

So after allowing it to fully settle and adjusting it twice:
OEM recommended setting: 633mm front / 626mm rear
Current setting: 628mm front / 622mm rear (-5mm front / -4mm rear)

I'm thinking I may lower both the front and rear a few more mm, however I'm going to wait on deciding until installing spacers up front. I've installed 10mm spacers in the rear, but I have not installed the 12mm spacers in the front as of yet (I'm deciding whether or not I want to make a set of small custom mud-flaps for the front to avoid road sh*t kicking up and hitting the rear fender and etc.).

[Paulus987]

Hello,

I'm new to this forum, but i have an 2016 M3 F80 Competition. I have installed the M retrofit suspension at a local garage, with a technician working there who has over 15 years of BMW experience. Worked before at a dealership, but now at a local garage.

I'm riding with the original styling 666 wheels, and 265/30 R20 in the front and 285/30 R20 in the rear. Original tyres sizes.

The garage has maximum lowered the car, i believe 20mm front & rear.

But i have a problem in the front, the tyre is hitting the suspesion. I have droven about 200m, and there is clearly a threadmark on the tyre. Does anyone know what the problem could be?

Alignment is done after installation, also the (EDC) software update. Maybe not the required alignment, but "standard"?

I'm also running with Goodyear F1 AS3 tyres, not the recommended Michelin Supersports with BMW *Star* markers. Maybe that makes the difference?

Don't know where to look. Also contacted the local dealership, where i ordered the parts, but they are not quite helpful as the didn't do the installation.

[Paulus987]

Originally Posted by figure99

I'm finally getting it closer to what I like. For whatever reason I tried again and was able to successfully adjust both rear sides by about 5mm (higher). The car is still very clean, so no grime or dirt in the threads luckily... I raised both sides, used compressed air anyway, and it worked.

So after allowing it to fully settle and adjusting it twice:
OEM recommended setting: 633mm front / 626mm rear
Current setting: 628mm front / 622mm rear (-5mm front / -4mm rear)

I'm thinking I may lower both the front and rear a few more mm, however I'm going to wait on deciding until installing spacers up front. I've installed 10mm spacers in the rear, but I have not installed the 12mm spacers in the front as of yet (I'm deciding whether or not I want to make a set of small custom mud-flaps for the front to avoid road sh*t kicking up and hitting the rear fender and etc.).

You don't have mounted the spacers in the front? Which tyre brand/size do you have? I'm having problems with the tyres who are scraping against the suspension.

[CRRobert]

So I should be getting this kit installed soon. One question I have is why the height for the 20 inch wheels is higher than for 18 and 19. When looking at the dimension tables in the PDF, has a bigger x dimension jump from 19 to 20 (19mm f, 18mm r) than from 18 to 19 ( 13mm f, 13 mm r). 13 sounds correct since 1/2 in increase for half rim diameter increase to the x dimension is 12.7 mm.

If my math is right, this puts the car 6.6 mm higher in the front and 5.6 mm higher in the rear if they base it off 20 in rims than 19 in rims.

[CRRobert]

So another quick question, I measured my stock car, and I get front 652mm front and 622 rear on 20” rims. Based on the PDF, should be 633 front, 626 rear after install. So will end up 19 lower in front, but actually 4 higher in the rear. Does this make sense, or will end up about the same in the back when settled? Car just has 300 miles on it.

[SanchoDivine]

CRRobert

You're over analyzing the height setting which can be adjusted at any time. Though the rear can be a PITA. Add some beta link or something that can help grip between the car and the top of the metal piece of the rear kit to help keep it from spinning when/if you plan to adjust it.

My assumption is the difference in drops is due to the aesthetics of the rear fenders on the M3 which will make you look like you have more of a sunk suspension look the larger your wheels/smaller your tires are.

I recommend you drop the front all the way and drop the rear with around 1/3 of an inch space threaded space between the top and the adjuster screw.

These are the drops I eventually went to after my springs settled. The front was easy but the rears took some work which I am hoping to save you from experiencing.

[figure99]

Originally Posted by CRRobert

So another quick question, I measured my stock car, and I get front 652mm front and 622 rear on 20" rims. Based on the PDF, should be 633 front, 626 rear after install. So will end up 19 lower in front, but actually 4 higher in the rear. Does this make sense, or will end up about the same in the back when settled? Car just has 300 miles on it.

It's possible the new car hasn't fully settled yet, but regardless I wouldn't over think it. Best thing about a HAS kit is it's adjustable to your liking. See my car from a few posts above... I'm 5mm and 4mm lower than BMW recommendations in the front and rear respectively and I will probably go a little lower come spring.

Also, if at all possible use beta link or some adhesive to secure the top part for the rear springs. It will make adjustment significantly easier! If you're using a dealer for the install they probably will not do this since it's not explicitly stated in BMW instructions unfortunately. Good luck!

[CRRobert]

I guess that is the engineer in me, as I created a spreadsheet to compare to my currently dropped 340ix to what the M3 will end up at with the various settings, etc.

thanks for the advice and what you guys have experienced.

[figure99]

Originally Posted by CRRobert

I guess that is the engineer in me, as I created a spreadsheet to compare to my currently dropped 340ix to what the M3 will end up at with the various settings, etc.

thanks for the advice and what you guys have experienced.

No problem, I can totally relate... I'm an engineer as well. I 3D printed a tool to help quickly measure the wheel height. It helped me select a height before adjustment and confirming it while adjusting it.