02-24-2021, 09:47 PM | #1 |
Second Lieutenant
367
Rep 257
Posts |
OEM LCI Adaptive LED Headlight Retrofit
Here we go!
Title kinda says it all. Not much to add. I'll be tackling this project next along with some changes to the front (splitter and front lip) at the same time. Hopefully I'll get around to this by the beginning of March. So exited. What I've done so far is wrapped the wiring kit in Tessa tape in prep for wiring the car (my car came with Xenons) I'll post the process and my impressions here and on IG.
__________________
IG: @FLEXSPEC
|
02-25-2021, 12:25 PM | #3 |
Second Lieutenant
367
Rep 257
Posts |
I can’t wait. I’m sure it will update and change the look of the entire front end.
I wrapped them last week. Wanted to make sure they are protected like the Xenons. It has been a year and they look brand new. Can’t wait to get this started. Hopefully add something new to the community along the way. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-28-2021, 05:07 PM | #6 |
Resident Brain Mechanic
49
Rep 42
Posts
Drives: `19 BSM F83
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Seattle, WA
|
Looking to do this retrofit myself as well! Can't wait for your updates!
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-02-2021, 06:35 PM | #7 |
Major
640
Rep 1,381
Posts |
Well worth it - I pulled the trigger last summer as a lockdown project
__________________
2015 435i - 401whp
Scorpion catless dp, VRSF 6.5" HD FMIC, MST V2 inlet, NGK 97506, MHD Stage 2+ 102, xHP Stage 3, M Performance Exhaust (modified for valved straight thru) |
Appreciate
0
|
03-10-2021, 08:52 AM | #9 |
Second Lieutenant
367
Rep 257
Posts |
Quick update. Nothing major. But first, let's talk wiring.
The kit comes with wiring that runs power from the rear fuse box to the front passenger light and from the fuse box in the engine bay to the drivers side light. This extra wiring are for those with Xenon headlights doing this retrofit. I took the time to wrap it in Tessa tape and will be using zip ties to affix it to existing wire-looms. I should be starting this project in a couple of days. I'm looking forward to it.
__________________
IG: @FLEXSPEC
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-12-2021, 05:42 PM | #10 |
▆ ✚✚ ▆▆▆▆▆▆
6579
Rep 5,304
Posts |
IMO the F8X LCI headlights are the best looking headlights BMW has ever designed.
Good luck with the install and don't be afraid to take your time. |
Appreciate
4
|
03-13-2021, 01:33 PM | #11 | |
Major
593
Rep 1,117
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
1
flexspec367.00 |
03-16-2021, 10:23 PM | #13 |
Second Lieutenant
367
Rep 257
Posts |
Lets get the obvious out of the way. Project is done. Took me 6 hours and by far the most enjoyable mod I have done. Each time I say that, a new mod surpasses my expectation. lol
That said. This was awesome and the end product makes the entire process that much sweeter. I have some video, pics of the process and I'll do a write up in a few days. As usual, I won't redo information that you can be found online (ie: removing a bumper with headlight washers or how to remove lights) but I'll add in useful information - tools I used to make this process extremely smooth and error avoidance techniques. I hope this helps someone. Cheers
__________________
IG: @FLEXSPEC
|
Appreciate
3
|
03-21-2021, 10:01 PM | #14 |
Second Lieutenant
367
Rep 257
Posts |
Hi everyone. So I’ve got some time to try and piece all this information together. I feel the format of this info lends itself well to the IG platform. That said, lets get into it.
Here is a brief video over view of the process and my plan of attack. It was important to me to remove all the panels I outlined in the above video. Utilizing existing wiring channels proved to be very useful. I employed the use of a Dremel tool to drill a blind hole through the rubber grommets on the right and left hand side firewall. I say blind, because you can’t see whats on the other side as you’re drilling. Go slow. Although it is blind, the location makes it extremely difficult to damage anything, unless being careless. I took a picture of the drill bit so you can see what it looks like from the other side so you can see what is in proximity to the aperture you’re creating. The red wire pictured with Black fuse block provides power for the drivers side light. I purposefully left the red wiring unwrapped, because it passes through a fabric opening of the firewall on the drivers side to a enclosed, water tight fusebox in the engine bay. I used some gasket maker to seal air/liquid tight to prevent ingress into the cabin if water were to ever get into the engine bay. Huge pro-tip. Lets talk lights. The photo I have attached of the dreaded spinning headlight nut (photo credit to IGOR_M5) is a real problem. I have 2 solutions. Both are viable. But one is better than the other. The reason why this happens is that moisture causes rust to form between the nut and the T30 torx screw, and the force required to break the nut is greater than the capture frame that is created over the nut to hold it in place to facilitate the bolts removal. Solution 1. As IGOR_M5 mention, necessitates removal of the capture frame of the nut. However, instead of trying to hold it in place with a flathead, use a 10mm open wrench it’s the perfect size. The hardest part was removing the capture frame to expose the nut. Solution 2. Do not attempt to remove the bolt at all. Do not touch it. Use penetrating fluid. Spray liberally. Wait an hour. Remove bolt. If you attempt to remove the bolt before spraying you can no longer use this method. Drivers side headlight took 2 hours, I employed method 1, took some time to figure out what was happening, find IGOR_M5’s post and remove the capture frame. Passenger side headlight was soaking for an hour while I was working on headlight 1 and took 60 seconds. I do not have a solution for the furthest bolt as it is enclosed and cannot be reached like the first (closest) bolt. Luckily these bolts came off without any issue. I would attempt to spray some penetrating fluid on the bolt face. Some may reach the nut. On assembly I placed some copper based anti-seize to prevent it from happening again in the future. Level of difficulty: I actually found this mod to be fun. Because of the bumper removal I would rate this a 6/10. Impressions: 10/10 would do this again. The front has an updated look. If anyone is thinking of doing this - do not hesitate - it is worth it. Last edited by flexspec; 03-21-2021 at 10:10 PM.. |
03-31-2021, 09:32 AM | #16 |
Banned
16
Rep 61
Posts
Drives: M3F80-Frozenblack-metallic
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Germany,RLP,67240 Bo/Ro
|
Nice work👍
Did You need to code the new lights ? Or was it plug and play ? |
Appreciate
2
flexspec367.00 Sublimeside80.00 |
04-18-2021, 03:32 PM | #17 | |
Second Lieutenant
367
Rep 257
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
IG: @FLEXSPEC
|
|
Appreciate
3
|
03-12-2023, 05:10 AM | #21 | |
Major
1378
Rep 1,331
Posts |
Quote:
The lci ikon lights throw the light outwards and upwards more.See images. With the high beams turned on its extremely bright. I did multiple imagery against my garage door at night and you can see the beam is much more full on the ikons and the chevrons located on the chrome piece project the beam upwards. I do however have the Euro spec lights. The cornering light is great to see around a sharp right corner.
__________________
MGM Ext, SO int, Euro IKON, CS front lip, Carbon 1.5 diffuser, GTS/CS coding, M perf rear spoiler, & everything else STOCK.
(Previous E39 and NA1 NSX owner) Those were the days! |
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-12-2023, 10:08 AM | #22 |
New Member
2
Rep 14
Posts |
So you pay like 1.5k a piece for genuine BMW lights, but you get the full working adaptive lights after coding, thats a bonus but a little to much for my liking. looks amazing though. much more agressive on DRL. I have the LCI LED's non adaptive and they even skipped the ''eyebrow'' on those, so its only the corona rings .....
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|