Fuel gauge incorrect (faulty fuel pump sensor)

[Miyamodel]

Last week, I was driving extremely cautiously in heavy rain in efficient mode when the engine cut, went into neutral, and threw a DCT malfunction. Coasted to the shoulder and tried to restart a few times. It would just sputter and die.

After some diagnosing, long story short, the car ran out of gas with the fuel gauge reading half full. They put a few gal in and the car started up with no codes. They pulled the fuel pump and said everything looked fine.

Drove it home, filled it up (14gal went in) and the gauge went from half to full. I've put 120mi on it since and it seems to perform fine, but the gauge is still reading full and the range indicator still says 370mi. Shop is now recommending replacing the entire fuel pump since the level sensor is built in.

I dont think I've read of anyone else replacing a pump specifically for this reason. A few questions:

1) Is a level sensor fixable or is replacing the fuel pump the most logical and cost effective fix here? Is it possible this isn't even being caused by the sending unit?

2) Since it doesn't seem like fuel pump issues are that common, is buying a used pump relatively safe (<$100) or should I just buy new ($500)? I'm currently only running Stage 1 91, but is there any value in getting an upgraded aftermarket like Precision Raceworks Stage 3 ($900) if E30 is the max I ever plan to run in the future?

Thanks!

[-Eidos]

Originally Posted by Miyamodel

Last week, I was driving extremely cautiously in heavy rain in efficient mode when the engine cut, went into neutral, and threw a DCT malfunction. Coasted to the shoulder and tried to restart a few times. It would just sputter and die.

After some diagnosing, long story short, the car ran out of gas with the fuel gauge reading half full. They put a few gal in and the car started up with no codes. They pulled the fuel pump and said everything looked fine.

Drove it home, filled it up (14gal went in) and the gauge went from half to full. I've put 120mi on it since and it seems to perform fine, but the gauge is still reading full and the range indicator still says 370mi. Shop is now recommending replacing the entire fuel pump since the level sensor is built in.

I dont think I've read of anyone else replacing a pump specifically for this reason. A few questions:

1) Is a level sensor fixable or is replacing the fuel pump the most logical and cost effective fix here? Is it possible this isn't even being caused by the sending unit?

2) Since it doesn't seem like fuel pump issues are that common, is buying a used pump relatively safe (<$100) or should I just buy new ($500)? I'm currently only running Stage 1 91, but is there any value in getting an upgraded aftermarket like Precision Raceworks Stage 3 ($900) if E30 is the max I ever plan to run in the future?

Thanks!

The car has two fuel level sensors. The first is accessible on the passenger side and is attached to the low pressure fuel pump. The fuel level sensor itself is replaceable here (it's snaps on and off) and there's no need to buy a brand new low pressure fuel pump assembly if you don't want to.

You can buy a used assembly and take the sensor or see if you can buy the sensor separately; part #1582894121

The second fuel level sensor is unaccessible and located on the driver side. If this is the problematic one then you'll have to replace the entire fuel tank.

[G35POPPEDMYCHERRY]

what a fucking joke same thing happened to my sisters f32 n20. they replaced the whole fuel tank....idk why.

such a strange problem, and the damage of fuel starvation can be fatal

[Tamtino]

Did you ever find out the real issue? And how to fix?
I’m currently in the same situation as you

[Miyamodel]

Originally Posted by Tamtino

Did you ever find out the real issue? And how to fix?
I’m currently in the same situation as you

I'm actually still chasing the issue. I had the whole fuel pump replaced with a new OEM one, but it didnt fix the issue. Now, the gauge moves, but much slower so when the needle is at half tank, its actually completely empty. Ive driven it like this for months, but the car will still throw a code for deviation between fuel consumption and level.

Im taking the car to another shop probably next week expecting to now replace the entire fuel tank (other sensor) if necessary.

[Tamtino]

Originally Posted by Miyamodel

I'm actually still chasing the issue. I had the whole fuel pump replaced with a new OEM one, but it didnt fix the issue. Now, the gauge moves, but much slower so when the needle is at half tank, its actually completely empty. Ive driven it like this for months, but the car will still throw a code for deviation between fuel consumption and level.

Im taking the car to another shop probably next week expecting to now replace the entire fuel tank (other sensor) if necessary.

It throws a code? Mine doesn’t in about to swap a fuel pump off a salvage car and see how it goes did you ever update the i level of your car? I posted about it and someone posted this Assuming your mechanic tested both fuel level sensors (one integrated with fuel pump and the other with the fuel tank) you might have this issue:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...35042-9999.pdf

See if that fixes ur gauge problem

[Miyamodel]

Originally Posted by Tamtino

It throws a code? Mine doesn’t in about to swap a fuel pump off a salvage car and see how it goes did you ever update the i level of your car? I posted about it and someone posted this Assuming your mechanic tested both fuel level sensors (one integrated with fuel pump and the other with the fuel tank) you might have this issue:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...35042-9999.pdf

See if that fixes ur gauge problem

Huh, I dont know how I haven't come across that after all the research I've done. Thanks!

And yeah, prior to the fuel pump replacement, the code (193208) would throw a CEL after 100-130ish mi of driving, but would go away after I cleared the code. It took some time for the code and CEL to appear for the first time so its possible you haven't driven enough for the system to recognize the difference in fuel consumption and gauge level. After the new fuel pump went in, I still get the 193208 code, but no more CEL for some reason.

[Tamtino]

Originally Posted by Miyamodel

Huh, I dont know how I haven't come across that after all the research I've done. Thanks!

And yeah, prior to the fuel pump replacement, the code (193208) would throw a CEL after 100-130ish mi of driving, but would go away after I cleared the code. It took some time for the code and CEL to appear for the first time so its possible you haven't driven enough for the system to recognize the difference in fuel consumption and gauge level. After the new fuel pump went in, I still get the 193208 code, but no more CEL for some reason.

I think that 193208 might be with ur second sensor in your fuel tank because I daily mine and never got a cel I just fill up every 150 miles I’m gonna try to run my tank dry and see if a cel pop up

[Tamtino]

Originally Posted by Miyamodel

I'm actually still chasing the issue. I had the whole fuel pump replaced with a new OEM one, but it didnt fix the issue. Now, the gauge moves, but much slower so when the needle is at half tank, its actually completely empty. Ive driven it like this for months, but the car will still throw a code for deviation between fuel consumption and level.

Im taking the car to another shop probably next week expecting to now replace the entire fuel tank (other sensor) if necessary.

Did you ever take it in to see what was wrong with it?
Idk if this was happening on urs too but my fuel gauge likes to go down then up to full then back down and bug out and go to full

[Miyamodel]

Originally Posted by Tamtino

Did you ever take it in to see what was wrong with it?
Idk if this was happening on urs too but my fuel gauge likes to go down then up to full then back down and bug out and go to full

No, the car isn't my daily and I haven't been able to drive it much/take it in.

Mine moves, but not as dramatically as that. I mentioned it before, but right now, the car reads half on the gauge when the car is completely empty. The gauge is accurate in that regard - the needle will move appropriately from full to 1/2 tank (empty) as I drive. However, sometimes when I start the car, the needle will be in the right position then slowly go back to full as I drive, but then the next time I start the car itll be back to normal. Vice versa also happens - it will start at full then go up to the right position.